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Breaking news Mitsubishi will be trying to reboot their brand by bringing back the starion and 3000gt as a pickup and minivan, respectively

They are set up for production. Modeled in CAD with CNC machined fixtures and all parts are CNC machined for perfect repeatable fitment.

Lot of stuff has been added to the site https://www.enginemachineservice.com/ems/index.php

I always got projects going on .. winter and every other season in between ... 😁 Some of you who have been around for a while will remember StarquestJoe, I purchased a Galant VR4 he had sitting in his backyard after a few years of asking him about it. My son was 10 at the time, and my thought was if we started restoration on it we could maybe be done by the time he was 16. So we have been working on that for the past 3 years. So far, most of the work has been just building the motor. We had to tear everything down, send it all out to be machined and cleaned and then put everything back together. In the meantime, the car has been in storage at my father-in-laws shop. At this point the motor is pretty much finished ready to go, so it's time to bring the physical car home and start working that. I want to go over the brakes, suspension and drop the gas tank and see what's going on there. That will be our winter project. To get started though I have to find a storage place to keep my Eclipse. I have a few leads on some garages, but it's been tough between work and weather to get the car dropped off and in storage. I have a 3 car garage, but I need to get rid of one car in order to bring his home and begin work on it. I hate to send the Starion out of my sight since I have so much into it, so Eclipse is the winter storage candidate. I've never stored a car before, and I'm finding it out it's not cheap. I have a fully detailed thread going on on DSM Tuners of the VR4 resto you can click through when you're bored here: Galant VR4 Restoration Here's a few pics though just to give you the idea. Thus far, I've enjoyed this project more than any other I've done in the last 25 years. Teaching my son and watching become passionate about the hobby and have his ideas and dreams has been really cool. This is what we started with. Supposedly Joe got this 4G63 from StarquestRescue, another name many of you will remember well. This a picture of the car the day after we picked it up and brought it back to the shop. The car itself has been and had been sitting for a while, so if it doesn't work out we can always buy a 1G, 2G or even another VR4 and drop our engine in. So we have options. It been a long road so far and the Eclipse and Station don't get as much attention right now, but this hopefully will worth it in the end.

"TURBO" Door handles are tough to find, and they are tougher to find in decent shape. If you like the look, and want the look, here's a cheap and easy way to create it. First, start by removing your door handles. I won't go over how to do that here, but there are posts you can find. I'll try to link one up later. Next, you'll need a set of the "TURBO" stickers. They are available on eBay, or, you can have your own made. I had a graphic artist friend make these for me. I think the ones on eBay are about $5. If you've ever seen a "real" set of turbo handles, they are perfectly smooth. Conversely, the "standard" handles are textured. They have what I call a knurling on them. You need to carefully sand that off smooth. I used my palm sander and rotated through 150, 220 and some 400 by hand. When you're done, it should look like this. Once you are this far the "black" on the handles will be kinda dull and flat looking. We need to bring that back to a shine to have a look correct. For this I grabbed some buffing compound and a buffing wheel. After some polishing you should be able to get the handles to look like this. Now we can sticker them up. Do some measuring and get everything centered up. Peel back the covering ... and ... ta-da! $5 TURBO door handles. Last thing I did to these that I didn't show was a took a can of clear spray paint and just gave them a light coating a day later to help prevent the stickers from peeling up.

I sent Ryddler a message and asked him to update the home screen. Jimmy

For those of us in some of those Facebook groups, I think one of the things we could do is reply to questions with links to threads here that answer said questions, instead of answering them directly in Facebook. This should bring some traffic here, and hopefully some of that traffic will see "hey, there's a ton of other useful info here that's alot easier to sift through than Facebook is". And for image embeds, I created this thread a while back for using Imgur for image and video hosting. Really the hardest part is getting the account setup (which really isn't hard). Once that's done, it's just uploading the picture to Imgur>copying the link>pasting it here; the forum software will automatically embed photos before you even click Post:

Johnny Wadd has a post from 2013 in this section on how to do this, but like so many other threads, all the pics are missing, so here's my recreation of this process: You can remove the console latch with the center console still installed in the car. You do NOT have to remove it the whole console unless you want to for some reason. For this tutorial, this console was already removed. First, remove the flocked bin/cubby inside your console by prying up on it. It'll pop out. Next, remove the two hinge bolts that hold the lid. The lid will be removable at this point. Now remove the 4 larger screws you see. Under the map lid you will find 5 smaller screws. Remove all five. Remove the hard plastic piece and you'll have access to the latch. If it's broken, it may just fall out. Don't lose the spring. Wrap the coil spring around your new / or repaired console latch like so. Back in the lid there are two VERY small pin holes. Carefully feed the two posts on the coil spring into the console lid pin holes and snap the latch gently into place. It should look like this. Reverse the process and put the map holder back in with the 5 screws. If the spring is installed properly the latch will be "sprung" into a downward position. When latched, it'll sit in a downward position like so. The act of pulling up on it will unlatch it and allow you open the console lid. The plastic tab on the latch should catch on the plastic ledge cast into the console as shown. That's it. You've replaced, or repaired your center console latch. Reinstall the rest of the screws as necessary put your lid back on the console and enjoy your ride on step closer to perfection!

After a lot of thinking, I've decided against selling. My two kids said that I can't sell my "race car"

In any build you need to check the gap, I always used factory specs on the gap just staying towards high side, sometimes you need to open it up, you will need to see. Forget checking oil rails as they are always over spec. Dad

ad130 - If you're in distress I can probably find a solution. Used but good flywheels are available but will be around the $300+ range after shipping and especially after surfacing if it needs it. The shops you called probably won't touch lightening the flywheel for liability purposes, but if they won't resurface it or redrill it, they are flat-out incompetent and would not be worth your money anyway. I've been around for a while. I'm not a huge name, but trusted in the community. If you're in dire need and this is a viable solution, ship me your flywheel and I will take it to my local machine shop for resurfacing, re-drilling, and possibly to lighten it as well. They typically charge me $40-60 for a resurface with a few days turn-around. Good old dudes.

I can't see the video nor any pictures - none of the links work now. But a common issue with the vacuum actuators is the face/foot actuator getting cracks/splits/tears in the rubber bellows part. That becomes a big vacuum leak and the actuator fails to fully move in that direction. A temp fix is to slather epoxy over the split area, sealing it. But soon another part of the bellows will split/tear... Go to a hobby store that sells radio controlled cars and boats. They often have similar looking rubber bellows for the boat drive and steering mechanisms. Find one that is similar in diameter at each end and use that to replace the factory bellows. Cut the factory bellows part in the ribbed section - leaving the ends (where it clamps the actuator shaft and the face of the actuator body) intact. That'll give the R/C bellows something to grip/attach to. A little epoxy will seal the new R/C bellows to the remnants of the original bellows ends. Other folks have discovered a bellows inside the door is similar too... a junkyard run may be in order. As for the fan motor itself... the climate control computer uses a Darlington pair "power transistor" (a physically large transistor that can handle the amps of the motor and has a high gain) to adjust the fan speeds when the system is on AUTO mode. In manual mode, the system uses that same transistor for low fan speeds. For manual and AUTO modes, when MAX fan speed is selected a relay bypasses the transistor to supply full battery voltage directly to the motor. That relay is one of the relays attached to the evaporator box underneath the dash. Connector B-73 with black, blue+black, blue+yellow, and a red wire on the wiring harness side of the connector. Another issue: the "brushes" inside the motor wear down. Motor brushes are just rectangular shaped carbon bricks; a wire is attached to one end and the other end rubs against the rotating armature of the motor, wearing into an arc=shaped end. That arc-shaped end gets shorter and shorter as the brush wears from use. The guts of the motor will be full of carbon dust when this happens. It is a bit of a dirty pain to replace the brushes but it can be done. Take one old brush to a motor repair shop, a fully stocked ACE hardware store, or some other place that sells replacement brushes (they'll be in those metal cases just like the screw assortments) and find a brush with the same cross section size and at least as much wire length. The new brush should be much longer, about half an inch long if I remember correctly. It's been ages since I had a StarQuest interior fan motor apart... and I've had many other motors apart since then. mike c.

Sorry it's been so long since I got back to this - busy at work. So, the one I made out of Nylon fits on, but I had to really force it. It's a tad tight, I couldn't even push it all the way down. I gotta lossen up the tolerances a bit and reprint. I think it'll be good on the 2nd try. If so, I'll send GTRBillet the file and hopefully we can get these made out of derlin.

mks motorsports sells a complete new unit.great company as well.

Eh. Cover the filter and all wiring. Then have at it. Some funk might be stopping leaks, so maybe be prepared for that

Got 8 throttle plate screws left from a set of 10 I bought. If anyone needs a set, I will send them via an envelope and stamp for free. Limit 4 screws per person.

I'm guilty for not posting much although I do get on almost daily, I can't stand the picture issue, I tried to update my rebuild post and resized pictures and still ran out of room and gave up. Dad

I used that picture for a presentation back in college 25 years ago! It has to be on the web somewhere. Or a flashdrive somewhere in my desk. Maybe

I've got two sets of D2's NIB sitting in my garage, no longer needed. $1000 each shipped to the lower 48.

Just and FYI for all users ... the Throttle Body Rebuild thread (originally from 2017) is back up. It took me a few nights to link all the pics, but it's done. It can be found here: https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/150919-how-to-step-by-step-throttle-body-rebuild/#google_vignette Thank you Wayback Machine for still having all the text!

This was after I put some wax on it, this was how it looked before that.

Thank you very much for your support!

Hello, if you anyone is possibly interested in any carbon fiber or fiberglass parts for the Starquest. Please feel free to reach out to us through our email @ BoostedDiamonds@gmail.com for more assistance, or visit our site at www.BoostedDiamonds.com Thank you! Janner Boosted Diamonds http://Www.boosteddiamonds.com

With the throttle shaft back in place we can begin to reassemble the lower portion of the TB. Before you do that though, make sure you have everything you need. I'd highly recommend you replace the majority of the hardware on the TB. I just ran out to Home Depot and picked up some grab bags in the metric section. Here's what I bought: You also want to pick up the GP gasket set I mentioned previously. And, you definitely want to pick up the FelPro version of the TB gasket as well. You can see the FelPro gasket on the right has a coating on that helps it to seal better. The one in the GP kit has leaked on me in the past and I've had to rip everything apart again. So, do it right the first time. Before we can use the gasket rebuild kit though, it was time to rewind the throttle spring. You want to slide the spring back on and make sure the little J-shaped hook grabs on the metal piece shown below. Then just simply wind until your painted-on line reappears. Here's that hook again from another angle. Once it's wound, put your 12mm back on and tighten down. With the spring rewound it's time to bust into that gasket kit and put the gasket that goes between the upper and lower TB sections in place. Now it's to tighten down the two halves. I used fresh M5 -.8 x 16mm Allen heads. Highly recommend, can easily be removed with a T-handle allen wrench later if need be. Plus, they look waaay nicer. Here's where we're at with our two halves back together and the spring back on. Next I reattached all the various brackets. I cleaned them up as best I could on my wire wheel first and then clear-coated them to prevent them from rusting. Some more of those new screws: Next I mounted the ISC back onto the housing using 5 new 8mm hex head machine screws. And here is the lower half rebuilt from two slightly different angles. The very last piece of all this to put our fuel top hat back together. I decided to send mine out to Chad here on the board to have it machined out for domestic injectors. Whether you do this or not, the process of rebuild is pretty much the same. In OEM form the top injector housing is a bit narrower and has screens down inside. Be careful not to damage the screens. Chad's modification machines this area out slightly and eliminates the screens. This is mine after having it powdercoated to match the rest of the TB assembly. First, we're going to start by installing the dampener diaphragm. You want to make sure you install this thing the right direction. There are 2 DIFFERENT sides to it. You want to install it so that side #1 is facing toward you like so: Next, there's an o-ring from your GP kit that goes on the cap. Find that and carefully slip it over. Hopefully you didn't misplace your spring, b/c we're going to drop that in next. Tighten everything down with an 8mm nutdriver. Now we're going to remount that Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). Here again I'm going to deviate from stock and install a Trilogy adjustable FPR. This particular unit mounts in the stock location though, so the process is the same. The 3rd option is you can pick up an adjustable FPR from FuelLab or Aeromotive or some other company like that and do a custom setup. There are two small gaskets in your kit that go on the FPR. You want to install them here and here: Reinstall in on the housing with the 3 8mm nuts and tighten everything down with your nut driver again. Now's its time to look at the injectors. Good stock injectors are getting harder and harder to find. Most of them have failed over the last 30 years, and many many many of them leak. If you want to chance it, you can send them out to be tested, but it cost money of course and there's no guarantee yours are good. Sometimes you can get lucky and find them F/S on the board here. Other options do exist. Trilogy and FIC make replacement Mitsu style injectors for these cars. They are often listed on eBay and can found on here as well. I believe I was told once the Trilogy injectors are just re-badged FIC's. You can even buy the injectors and FPR from Trilogy as a package deal. If you have your injector housing machined out, then you can run domestic injectors and have many more replacement options. I went with the latter of course b/c I had my housing modified to fit domestics. I will cover both OEM and Domestic injector installation next. I'll start with my Domestic Injector build first. I picked up these injectors from Verocious Motorsports. They are 95lb and 55lb injectors respectively. Chad provided the hardware and the two o-rings you see to the right in addition to the machining he did. You might remember at the top of this topic the first thing we did was remove those awful screws Mitsu had in there from the factory. Do NOT re-install them. Get a nice set of allen key screws M6 - 1.0 x 20mm is the OEM size. You'll need longer ones, maybe 25mm, with spacers if you go with the FIC's or Trilogy's. I believe Trilogy provides them if you buy from them. I also wrapped the corresponding "green" injector with green electrical tape just to make sure I installed it in the correct position. If you go with Domestic injectors, the lower two gaskets aren't necessary in this setup, so rather than risk them coming off on their own and ending up in the motor, remove them. All you need is the provided o-ring on the top that came with your injectors, and the o-ring seats provided by Chad. Gently push them down into the TB housing, and before you put the injector housing on, put some luby-lube on the o-rings. Now you can tighten down the injector housing with those new screws you got. You can see how the spacer makes up for the extra height of the injectors in this picture.

It's been 2 years since we closed our shop. Many people continued to ask me about parts so Diane and I started Dads Engine Parts LLC we went online today. link below. Dad Dads Engine Parts Llc.

Every picture I’ve tried to drag in gets blocked due to file size. I have to get it hosted through Photobucket.

It doesn't work unless your picture is highly compressed.

Being able to easily post pictures would probably assist with this. Facebook makes it way too easy to just upload massive picture files easily.

Hello! My name is Cameron and I bought an 88 Starion last year which is fairly modified and, I have been told, previously raced by prior owners. I live in New Orleans, Louisiana and recently graduated High School and soon to move onwards to college. Nice to meet you all and here’s to many more Starquest miles! Cheers! - Loub

Super stoked to be here …🍻

Minimal vibration- UNLESS you are rebuilding and replaced a connecting rod, when I was offering rebuilt rod sets I would purchase 200 rod cores at a time, I found variances of up to 40 grams in weight. If you are running original rods you should be fine but if replacing one I suggest getting the set balanced. Dad

DIFFICULTY - Easy TOOLS NEEDED - Cable cutters (or knife), flat-head screwdriver MATERIALS - Coolant and/or distilled water This is an easy project, for even the beginner mechanic. I noticed a few weeks back I was getting a coolant drip after driving my car, I discovered it was heater core hose at the firewall, so I decided to replace both and take a pics along the way. First, I ordered two new heater core hoses from DAD (in and out hose). They arrived a few days later. Now we need to remove the existing hoses at the firewall. They are most likely installed with hose clamps, so loosen them up and remove both hoses. Note, you WILL lose coolant during the process. I did this out in the driveway on purpose so I didn't have coolant all over my garage floor. I discovered years ago quite by accident that a set of cable cutters are EXCELLENT for cutting small diameter hoses cleanly. If you don't have a set, go buy a pair - it'll be well worth it. If you were able to get your old hoses off without too much trouble, you should be able to use them as templates for your new hoses, as they will be a little bit longer than needed. I had to cut about about an inch off this one. And I had to cut about 1/2 inch off this one. Now your ready to reinstall. Don't go too crazy tightening down the hose clamps, the heater core fittings are cooper and can/will crush. Now top of your radiator with coolant. Take your car for a short drive and make sure it gets up to temperature. Bring it back home and check your work for leaks. Let the car cool down an hour or so, then open your rad and it top it off again. You should be good to go. Happy StarQuesting.

Hello I’m Mike. ( I’m not an alcoholic). 20 years have passed since I was last here. At that time, I had a 1987 Conquest that I had completely converted to a twin turbocharged 700 hp 363 c.i. Ford motor/Powerglide drag car. In the cars previous iteration, it was a N/A 347/Tremec 3550 street driver. Before that, it was a dead engine’d stocker sitting under a Spruce tree with a pretty serious Hornets nest under the hood. A few years before that project, I had a 1987 Starion that also ended up as a ford engined drag car. In between Starquest ownership, the last car I had was a 1978 Ford Fairmont street driver. With a 617hp 2jz GTE/CD 009. When a complete JDM 2jz could be bought for 2700.00 Now, present day, I just bought a 1989 Buckskin Conquest off auction that I’ve had for about a week now. A declaration to the purists: My drag racing days are over. This car will not get hacked up and ford engine swapped. It’s a 72k mile fairly nice, mostly unmodified stock car. Save for squeezing it to make more power, I intend to leave the drivetrain alone. The Transmission shift linkage is worn out, the front seats have been in the Arizona sun too long, and the tires are flat spotted so bad the car drives like it’s on square tires. But other than those “ fixes”, it will make a nice driver. ill be asking for HP mod help, Suspension and braking upgrade advice, and what others have done to make the seat accommodate a 6’ driver. And put it all in a build thread. And desperately try to avoid putting any other engine in the car. Thanks for reading. ( I’m “ wordy”)

I want to get it running and just have a fun weekend car. I want to restore it to original color. The paint is a little faded. It's in storage right now and I gotta get a trailer to get it. Once I do I'll definitely post pictures. The last I remembered the interior was pretty good for an over 30 year old car. I want to do minor mods to it, but you know how that goes,.once you start it's hard to stop. Last I check it runs but would die once you step on the gas and the frame has some rust on it being in Indiana. The big thing is finishing what my dad started and just remembering the good times. He was a Mopar guy and we started with a 75 dart him and I. This was another gem for him to try redoing. Shoot the man loved this era. He drove an 87 ram/raider truck. Thanks for.any help y'all can give

Found one at Starquest Classic Parts. It should be installed in the next 3 to 36 months!

Finally got a batch of these printed up this week: The glossier 6 on the left are PETG. The more flat black 2 on the right are ABS. I was having some distortion issues with the ABS and had to throw a bunch of them out b/c I wasn't happy with the quality. I have another batch of 6 going in PETG as we speak. If anyone wants one, 15 shipped should do it (10+5 shipping). Shoot me a PM and I'll get one out to you. Things are kinda dead around here these days unfortunately, but if there's enough continual interest I'll put a formal F/S thread in the Bazaar and I can print them as needed.

Check it out Starquest on youtube Dad

If you click any pics in the gallery they don't open. Just an FYI for whomever might be able to fix it.

Just realized I haven't posted a pic on here in 10 years. Battlemagnet is still around, it's got a 1UZFE Lexus V8 swap now, super wide custom Work rims, Lazorack Motorsport widebody, and a bunch of aero I fabricated, along with all of the other carbon fiber stuff it had before.

Tony has it, picking it up on Sunday. SOLD!

Must be prepared for everything. Thats why I built a waste oil boiler and furnace. Have radiators in the bath room, craft room, and man cave area. Just the heat coming off the boiler keeps it around 56 degrees and that's pretty comfortable if you are working hard, WIFI thermostat so I bump it up before I'm heading out and let the furnace heat it up. I noticed after surgery I'm a bit more cold blooded and its been set to 65. Its been about 16'F lately and I'm nice and cozy in a T-shirt. When things get hot I have a 5 ton AC unit that pulls the whole place down in minutes. You people need to take your hobby a bit more seriously.

what we really need is to be able to upload larger resolution images. The max allowed image size is very difficult to work with.

Thank you all for your support this year! We wish you a Happy new year ! Free shipping to US 48 states on orders over $100.00 till Sunday Jan 7 2024 ( In stock items only) Dads Engine Parts LLC

You can fabricate anything you set your mind to. NDD can even fabricate timelines of delivery!

Mookeeh stepped up their packaging game since I last ordered from them.

OK, I do have the metal under car shield and that thought did enter my mind. I will need to see if it has the holes that align up. Mitsubishi logic just doesn't jive with mine. I want to do some aero on this car, wish I kept the front clip to make some fiberglass panels. Want to funnel the air from the bumper opening into the rad and do a better job of directing air.

I've read some horror stories on here about people rebuilding engines and then having dirty oil coolers that just push junk back into a fresh build. So I wanted to take some time and clean this out. I flushed out the inside with some kerosene and now I'm going to wash the cooling fins with some simple green so it does the best cooling job it can. Cleaned up the banjo bolts and got some new crush washers from Dad. Connected things up at the oil cooler first. Then back up top. Mounted the IC back up while I was at too. And here's a pulled-back shot just to give you a sense of where we're at. Really starting to look like a car again.

I've noticed the "OH NO" screen is still up from back when the site came back up years ago. May I suggest a new Home screen for Starquest Club? Maybe photos of members cars?

I stock the pads, https://www.dadsengineparts.com Dad

Mods: I tried to post this in the Fuel/ECU sub-forum but I don't have 10 posts yet; feel free to move this over Hi everyone, been a long time lurker, first time poster. I picked up a 87 Conquest two weeks ago and have been having fun going through it. It sat for 15ish years, mostly inside however when I pulled the gas tank, it needed cleaning; when I removed the sending unit, the sensor (is it a sensor? It looks like it's a housing for a resistor) was disintegrated. These sending units are no longer available, neither OEM nor aftermarket. I called around a couple places and was getting an estimated 6 months and $350-$600 to rebuild it; Tristar Radiator which was recommended here and elsewhere was so backed up they wouldn't even give a price because they aren't taking new work. In posting on the facebook group, someone mentioned other folks had success with a Montero sending unit, specifically part number MB571603. This part IS available from Mitsubishi for ~$100 based on where you order it from, it is also available aftermarket, for ~$20. I believed my issue was the disintegrated sensor, so I took a $20 gamble on amazon and bought this one aftermarket one hopeing I could just take the sensor off of it and put in on my old sender: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VB8CG84 . The short story is that it worked. Looking at the pictures for this sending unit, it appears that while that hat is different, and the connector is different, the rest of it is very very very mechanically close to ours with the stuff that goes in the tank. In theory if you felt like doing some fabrication to your existing sender hat, you may be able to figure out how to disconnect (or cut out) your existing mechanism and attach the one from the new sender. I didn't feel like going this route because my suspicion is that the only thing wrong with mine was the sender and I'm comfortable soldering a single wire. I'd imagine that say if your float was bad on your original sender, you'd likely have success replacing yours with the one from this Montero sender. As stated above, soldering in the new sensor worked. The only weird thing is that while the guage moves as you would expect by manually moving the float arm, my low fuel warning lite seems to stay on all the time when the ignition is on ON; this may be a function that the car isn't actually running, and/or that it has no fuel tank and the fuel pump isn't connected; I'm not sure, as this is the first experience I have with one of these cars. Even if it's abnormal, I'll take a working needle with an always on low fuel light over nothing! Pic 1 and 2: Side by Side, you can see the Montero (bottom) sender looks pretty darn similar with regards to everything that lives in the tank. Pic 3: You can see the hats are different; the Montero sender has 3 holes and is more triangular in shape. The holes in the Montero hat in no way match up to to our hat. Pic 4: Connectors are different however both are three terminal setup Pic 5: My dirty sender; all I needed to do is take a soldering iron, melt the old solder, remove the old wire Pic 6: Here's the connection point on my original sender, after I removed the old sensor wire I took a file and filed mine down some to get rid of rust/dirt Pic 7: On the Montero sender, I just cut the wire and stripped a little of the insulation off, and then soldered it onto my old sender. I had soaked my sender (not fully submerged, just up to the bottom of the hat) and soaked/submerged pickup in vinegar for 24hrs in between Pic 6 and 7, it worked great! Pic 8: Attach the sender sensor on the bottom of the rod Pic 9: Here's the cleaned up original sender with the new Montero sensor Pic 10: Here's my working gas gauge when manipulating the float arm!