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It's been 2 years since we closed our shop. Many people continued to ask me about parts so Diane and I started Dads Engine Parts LLC we went online today. link below. Dad Dads Engine Parts Llc.

Thought I'd post about this. Recently I had a shop try to do an alignment on my quest. Unfortunately, in an effort to fix the toe in the back, the monkeys ended up forcing the bolt over the edges of the rear subframe, bending the hell out of the cam bolt. They bent/ground it so bad I couldn't save it with a hammer. To replace it, I tried calling Mitsu dealers and even hitting up Amayama; no dice. At this point, I decided to get creative to see if I could find something off of another car that could fit. Lo and behold, I did find something. Another vintage Mitsubishi, you may ask? Perhaps some obscure 90's Hyundai whose parts availability is also on borrowed time? Nope, a current generation (specifically 2020) Toyota Rav4 AWD. "Toe adjustment cam sub-assembly" part number 48409-06010: "Camber adjustment cam" part number 48198-07010: Now obviously the little line marks on the cams don't match up to the originals, but anyone performing an alignment in the new millennia is using an alignment rack that spits out fancy numbers in real time, so they aren't needed anyway. For the record, the reason I chose the Rav4 AWD is because one of my coworkers had one I could match up the bolt to. If the bolt is actually different on the non-AWD models, I'm sure it'll fit fine as well.

I recently rebuilt my drivers side rear brake, so I decided to film myself doing it. This is meant to work hand-in-hand with the write-ups kev and obsolete did (I reference their write-ups in the video actually). So hopefully between the write-ups and video they should help anyone venturing to do this ... particularly the e-brake process. It's roughly 1/2 hour in total, but you can certain slide to whatever parts you may want to see. Here's the link to my video on YouTube: Starion Conquest Rear Brake Rebuild

Billet aluminum strut bars are available and can be ordered upon request. These are made from laser cut, tig welded steel brackets. Bars are 6061 billet aluminium. Performance aspect: Strut bars are a handling upgrade for those who do not know. Our cars are know to have a lot of body roll and flex in the chassis. Strut bars helps to stiffen the chassis during hard cornering or on uneven pavement. The Tri Brace Strut bar also helps to save the front windshield from cracking in performance driven applications. It uses three billet bars and three mounting points. Billet Front Tri Brace: $325 Front Single Strut Bar $154 Rear Strut Bar $148 Front Tri Brace and Rear Strut Bar set: $440 Single Strut Bar, Front and Rear set $285 Prices are without shipping and PayPal fees. Colors available for the mounting brackets are: Red, Black, Blue and Silver Please message me with needs.

Hello Everyone Im fairly new to to the starquests scene, had my 86 for just over a year, but I've been learning a lot about my car and it's long history in the scene. Joined a few fb groups and soon enough I had discovered that I own greenstar, ever since then I've been diving into the cars history and have gotten so much awesome info about my cars history. Some how hadn't really found this forum until very recently. Given some of the old posts I dug through looks like greenstar had kinda of been lost track of. So I felt it only right to share that greenstars still doing well up in MI

Another Cars and Coffee this morning. There were 3 of us there today.

(scroll down for video) Well my build thread doesn’t exist anymore… I’ll just do a timeline If anyone remembers… May2009–bought car not running Nov2015–finally running rebuilt w/ 16G May2017–dyno’d 265whp w/ 16G MS2 ECU June2017–blew HG at drag strip July2017-July2020-rebuilt engine, went MPI, struggled with tuning..quit July2020–decided 1JZ/R154 swap Mar2022–took roller to TRA in Ohio Jan2023–car is complete and ready for pickup. Team Rocket Auto in Hamilton did the full engine swap for me. I took them the roller and all parts. Results: 617whp @ 26psi 750whp @ 35psi

Hi I thought to share a couple of pictures I just took.. I got the fuel problem fixed... need to work on the ISC and TPS.... thanks for all your help...

Hmm... well... when I got the car it came with several boxes of parts... all kinds of stuff. I had looked through it all and thought I had one of those in there... Last night after I discovered it was bad I went digging.... 3 times I went through all of it.. even had my wife help me. I. could not find one.... so I came begging here to see if I there were any other options. Got up this morning and said ok one more time.... I decided I was going to empty everything out and sort it all out. I must have missed this one box. Opened it and there it was... brand new.... Vacuum advance after all. I apologize for the mix up.. but we did learn one thing.... this part is very short in supply.... it appears. psu_Crash had a good idea though... adaptation... Its actually not hard to make things like this with a 3D Printer.... I am expert at CAD drawing parts from existing parts. If anyone here ever needs some little plastic part or something let me know...I will see what I can do.. once I make the drawing... its just print. I am going to take the old one apart I think..see how it goes together. Does anyone know what the little hex nut on the top of it does..? I did take the car out for a ride after fixing this and its not the same car it was before... it used to have this jerk like the engine stopped momentarily when you stomped on it.. thats gone... and it is so smooth now through the gears... So thats 3 things now I have fixed... Fuel pump, Fuel Pump pressure Regulator.. and the vacuum advance.... Next the ISC...TPS idle thing... hard to start when cold and the idle goes up and down until it gets warm... seem the engine is starving for fuel.. not rich enough.. Thanks to everyone for responding... I will check out the last possible. place and report back.

I'm going to pull the trigger their subframe w/ rack kit, since they claim it comes with everything needed to convert and i have a 1500$ credit on my amex thanks to Revolution Brake not delivering on the bbk

If you saw the bicycle chain that runs the oil pump on these things you would not want to run 20W50. 20W50 is harder to pump especially when it is colder. I can't see a need unless your engine is just slap wore out and has no oil pressure.

83-89 Starion / Conquest EGR Thermo Valve (new OEM) | eBay

couple options: 1. Could tap into the rear most vacuum port on the TB (the one closest to the firewall in the set of three). Although, I've had issues with getting enough volume to properly operate a BOV. 2. Could tap into the vacuum line going to the brake booster. Many delete their OEM rear ABS. If you replace the factory 'T' that used to go to the ABS with a normal T, it is the perfect spot for a BOV vacuum. I've also used the factory ABS 'T' but drilled out the check valve inside it on the abs wing. 3. There is a plug on the intake manifold on the runner to cylinder 4 (on manual cars). [It may actually be right in the middle of the Y for runners 3 & 4..I can't remember exactly. But if you can't find it, I can snap a photo of it on my car later on] This is a perfect spot to remove the plug and install a nipple for the BOV. If your car is an automatic, there is a nipple there already that goes to the trans. Just T that line. Basically, you need to get vacuum/boost from after the throttle plate. The only factory vacuum locations are what I described above. Kevin

Thank you all. The injectors were in their proper locations with the correct wire. The fix was a new set of O-rings. When I removed the top hat I found the injectors were loose. Anew set of O-rings allowed the injectors to fit snugly in the their respective positions. That and a new Battery have my little girl back on the road.

Do you have a basic multimeter? They are pretty much a necessity to diagnose a StarQuest. The ignition circuit is one of the easier things on this car fortunately. The schematic diagram fills a full page - and is chock full of wires - but only half of it is really necessary; the rest is stuff to/from the ECU that tweaks the fuel delivery. The ignition system itself will operate independently of the ECU - no ECU signal to the ignition system is required. Basic operation: when the ignition key is in START, or when the ECU "sees" pulses from the ignition system (same pulses that drive the dash tachometer), the "ECI Relay" is turned ON. This relay is what supplies power to the fuel pump, fuel injectors, and ignition system. That relay is underneath the dash... screwed to bodywork below the windshield "A" pillar and next to the glove compartment so I doubt it was any of the relays you messed with during the head gasket job. Two fusible links - those inverted "U" shaped wires near the battery - are involved however and are common "sore spots" on these cars. Those links, the box they are in, and the beefy wires coming from the box to a 3-pin connector a few inches below the box, are common electrical trouble spots on these cars. The first/#1 link should be red and is specifically for the ignition system and everything powered by the ignition switch ON and ACC positions, the second/#2 link is the "ECI" link that handles the majority of the fuel system and that ECI relay. Link #3, another red link, feeds things in the car that work without the ignition key in the ON/START/ACC positions such as the brake lights. So any of those links could be an issue. With a multimeter set to read DC Volts, you can probe each side of the link, relative to the battery "-" post, for +12 volts. On a typical "analog" multimeter (those with a mechanical needle pointer) the scale will be something like "15V DC"; on a digital meter it will generally be "20VDC" or "20V DC." Next, with the ignition key in the ON position, use the meter to look for battery voltage on the "+" post of the ignition coil, again relative to the battery "-" post which is also ground. That ignition terminal should have a black+white wire attached to it. No voltage? Then the wires from the battery to the fusible link box With the key ON and the engine not running, you should also have +12 volts on the "-" ignition coil post (which should have a blue+white wire on it and a wire feeding one of those radio noise suppression gizmos that is screwed to the chassis) as well as the center high-voltage output post. Still no joy in Mudville? Look at the EGR valve and the clip below it: that clip should be holding a connector from the distributor. Open that connector. Inside you should see two terminals on the connector side going to the distributor. Put your multimeter on a resistance measuring scale that measures up to 2000 ohms. On digital multimeters that will be a "2000 ohms" or "2K ohms" scale, "ohms" may be listed by a greek Omega letter. On an analog meter, look for settings like "x1000" or "x10000" which means "multiply the ohms scale on the meter display face by 1000 or 10000 to determine the resistance." Touch the two multimeter wires together; the display should read close to 0.0 on a digital meter and swing all the way to the right on an analog meter. If not... you don't have the meter configured correctly for reading resistance. Once the meter is configured properly, touch the meter probes to the two posts inside that connector from the distributor. You should see a reading in the 1000 ohms ballpark. If so, the "pick-up coil" inside the distributor (aka "Distributor signal generator" in Mitsu's service manuals is likely okay. Re-connect that connector. One one of the two screws holding that clip you should have a black ground wire running towards the fender and the general direction of the ignitor box... Last: when you re-assembled the cyl head, you did get the stubby extension shaft on the front of the camshaft and cam drive sprocket re-installed, right? That's what drives the distributor and the pick-up coil. There is a small metal roll pin, aka shear pin, that connects this shaft to the camshaft and chain sprocket. That little pin should be brand new; trying to re-use an old one can cause problems as old ones may not fit as tightly as they should and could easily slide out... and fall into the engine somewhere. Without that pin, the timing chain may not drive the distributor properly. Take the distributor cap off, unplug that connector from the pick-up coil, and have a buddy try starting the car. Can you see the distributor rotor spinning? If not... you've got a mechanical issue with the timing chain, that roll pin, etc. Re-connect that connector before you forget it again. Did you do anything with the timing chain during the head gasket job? I can't remember if there is a Woodruf key or index pin locking the crankshaft to that sprocket (most engines have such things, StarQuest engines have Woodruf keys on the balance shaft sprockets); if the sprocket was removed or even slid out of position a bit that key/pin may have fallen out so the entire timing chain stuff fails to rotate with the crankshaft. That's really all that is required to "get spark" on these cars. If those tests pass I would strongly suspect the ignitor module. I know you said you tried a second one... but how do you know it is functional? mike c. For the total rookies out there: the ECU does not trigger spark on these cars; instead the rotation of the distributor shaft induces tiny voltages in the pick-up coil. The ignitor triggers off those pulses. The ignition timing is set by the distributor, by the centrifugal advance mechanism inside the distributor (those odd weights and springs), and the vacuum advancer mechanism... just like a 1970s carbureted car with "electronic ignition." On more modern cars the ignition is handled by the main ECU... StarQuests are "tweeners" in the engine world: somewhere between old-style carburetors with basic electronic ignition and modern fully-computer-controlled fuel plus ignition systems. The StarQuest ignition system is a 1970/s1980s electronic ignition system with a few enhancements; the StarQuest fuel system is best thought of as an electronic carburetor.

This guide is more geared for those looking to upload directly from their phones as I think that's how most of you are getting your pictures/videos these days. Download the Imgur app from the App Store/Play store Once installed, launch it, and it'll ask for an account. If you have one already, sign in. If not, make one. Don't forget your password. Once signed in, tap the "+" icon to upload an image/video At the next page, there should be a green button asking for permission to view your photos. Tap it to grant the Imgur app permission to your phone's storage Now you should see your pictures/videos in the app. Select them, then tap "Next" At the final page, it will ask for a title, which is optional. Enter one if you want If you're uploading a video, there should now be a crossed-out speaker icon in the top-right. Tap that to UNMUTE your video if you wish Tap Upload in the top-right to upload it to Imgur Once it's finished uploading, there should be a green notification. Tap that to view your post If it's not there, just tap the profile icon in the bottom-right to see all of your account's uploads Open your picture/video (if not opened already), then long-press it and tap "Copy Post Link" (or "Copy URL" from the Android app) Paste the link directly into your post here on the forum If your link ends with .png/.jpg (the file type), the new forum software should pick up on it and automatically embed your picture in your post. This unfortunately does not seem to work for Imgur videos (yet).

But it is worth every penny! Then you know for sure what is going on with your air fuel mixture.

that's president brandon to you.

This may have been posted before but I couldn't find it. If it was it wouldn't hurt to bring it up again. Some really interesting STUFF!! I found this very through description of various Mitsu and Greddy turbo’s on the below DSM website. It even talks about using different cartridges, exhaust/ compressor housings/wheels, etc, etc…….. Plus it roughly gives what you can expect from each. It even talks about Starquests!!! http://www.houston-dsm.org/forums/showthread.php?t=79 Here is what it has. Mitsu turbos: Mitsubishi uses TD04, TD05, TD06, TD07, TD08...to designates turbo housing. For example, TD05H-16G 7cm^2 is a turbo with, TD05 turbine housing with 'H' style turbine wheel. There are S, SH, H... style of turbine wheel/housing. 16G compressor wheel. 16 is the size of the wheel, 1.83 inducer, 2.37 exducer. There is no direct correlation between MHI designation and actual physical size of the compressor wheel. G is the style of wheel (uneven height of blades). C, B, T style wheel's blades have the same height. Blades are equally spaced, but the number and pitch of the blades vary between models. 8cm^2 is referring to exhaust discharge area in the turbine housing. More specifically, it is the smallest cross-sectional area of the scroll, turbine housing. Very similar to Garrett turbo's A/R. The smaller number means faster spool-up but more back pressure at higher rpm. Bigger number means longer spool up but less back pressure, thus more top end power. Greddy modifies Mitsu turbos. I don't have any published specs for Greddy turbos and i have not taken any time to measure them. It's possible some of turbo’s have different specs from Mitsubishi. Also, both Greddy TD05 and TD06 use 3 bolt turbine flange where as Mitsubishi's uses 4 bolt flanges. Besides the TD04, TD05, TD06, TD07 and TD08 turbos, Greddy also makes hybrid turbo, T67 is TD07 compressor and TD06 turbine, same turbo as TD06SH-25G. T78 is the compressor of TD08 and turbine of TD07, T88 uses compressor and turbine from TD08. Garrett Turbos: Garrett basically has two lines of turbos. The ancient, inefficient T series turbos and the new, modern, ball bearing GT series turbos. T family has T22, T25, T3, T350, To4B, To4E, TS04, To4R ...These are 50 year old, WWII generation turbos. The newer line of GT turbos are ball bearing on journal and thrust bearing. The turbine and compressor wheels are improvely aerodynamically to flow more air. GT20, GT22, GT25, GT30, GT35, GT40, GT45, GT50... GT turbos produce slightly more hp then older T series turbos with the same number designation. A GT Garrett turbine wheel wil flow more air than similar sized Greddy turbine wheel. Thus GT turbos are able to boost higher and flow more. Turbonetics and many domestic makers turbos based on T series turbos. A T3/To4E 60 T .63A/R is a hybrid turbo with T3 turbine, To4E compressor, 60 Trim compressor wheel and .63 A/R turbine housing. Wheel "trim" refers to the squared ratio of the smaller diameter divided by the larger diameter times 100. Generally, the larger the trim number the more flow the wheel has. For compressor wheels , larger trim tends to mean slightly lower efficiency. For "families" of turbine wheels (those with the same inducer diameter), larger trim usually means better flow with less backpressure but longer spool time. A/R is a ratio of the exhaust discharge area vs the distance from the center of turbine wheel to the center of the cross sectional area. Smaller A/R housing has faster spool up. Bigger A/R housing has less back pressure, more flow for the top end. The so called "T-series': T60, T61, T66, T70, T72, T76... are T4 turbos as well. The number means the compressor inducer size. ie: T76 means it has 76mm compressor inducer. Taken from http://www.dsmtalk.com Mirage2.0 TDO4-9A stock turbo on a G32BT 83-86 TDO4-9B Stock turbo on a G32BT 87-88 TDO4-11B Stock turbo on a 4G61T 1989 4cm exhaust housing. TDO4H-13C Can be found on the Lebaron GTs. Exhaust housing will have to be replaced by your stock exhaust housing and machined to accept the TDO4H exhaust wheel. Lebarons exhaust housing will not bolt onto your stock header/manifold. 330cfm@15psi of boost. TDO4H-13G DSM Automatics. 360cfm@15psi of boost. 5cm exhaust housing. TDO4H-15G Upgrade turbo sold in Europe and Japan. 440cfm@15psi of boost. 5cm exhaust housing. TDO5-12A stock Starion/Conquest turbo1986-1989. 320 cfms@15psi of boost. 8 cm exhaust housing. exhaust housing is not a direct bolt up to a DSM. Cartrideg and compressor could be swapped into a TDO5 DSM exhaust housing if needed in a quick replacement but not recommended. TDO5-14B Stock DSM turbo here in the USA. 420cfm@15PSi of boost. 6cm exhaust housing. Can upgrade exhaust housing for more midrange to top end using the 7cm exhaust housing. TDO5-14G Upgrade turbo for the Starions and Conquests. 465cfm@15PSi of boost. Starion and Conquests came stock with 8cm exhaust housings. To use on a DSM you will want to take a 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing from a DSM and install it due to the fact the 8cm exhaust housing uses a different downpipe bolt pattern and shape is different to make installation much harder and require custom fabrication. TDO5-16G Upgrade for DSM 505cfm@15psi of boost. Looks the same as 14B. 7cm exhaust housing. TDO5-Super16G 550cfm@15psi of boost Looks the same as 14B. 7cm exhaust housing. TDO5-16G EVOIII 550cfm@15psi of boost exhaust housing is shapped different 7cm or more. Looks the same as 14B. TDO5-16G EVOIV-VIII larger compressor housing and dual exhaust scrolls. Some exhaust wheels and shafts are titanium depending on if you are in the USA or not. 550cfm@15PSi of boost. 8.5cm exhaust housing. TDO5-16G EVO IX Larger compressor housing, larger exhaust housing then previous EVOs, and larger exhaust wheel and it is titanium this year in the USA. 10cm exhaust housing. TDO5-17C custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B, looks the same as 14B. 550cfm@15PSI of boost and pulls hard in mid range then 16G series wheels. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5-18G custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B, looks the same as 14B. 585cfm@15psi of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5-19C custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B, looks the same as 14B. 600cfm@15psi of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5/6-17C custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B. uses a TDO6 compressor housing. Better midrange to top end. 550cfm@15PSI of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5/6-18G custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B. uses a TDO6. compressor housing. Better midrange to top end. 585cfm@15PSI of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5/6-19C custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B. uses a TDO6 compressor housing. Better midrange to top end. 600cfm@15PSI of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO5/6-20G custom job. Usually done using TDO5-14B. uses a TDO6 compressor housing. Better midrange to top end. 650cfm@15PSI of boost. 6cm or 7cm exhaust housing depending on turbo builder. TDO6-17C Stock turbo that came on the Syclone/Typhoons. This turbo was later used by turbo builders to bring us the TDO5/6-20G using the TDO6 exhaust wheel. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO6 compressor housing and machining a TDO5 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6 exhaust wheel. Incredible midrange to top end. 550cfm@15PSI of boost. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6-18G custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO6 compressor housing and machining a TDO5 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6 exhaust wheel. Incredible midrange to top end. 585cfm@15PSI of boost. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6-19C custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO6 compressor housing and machining a TDO5 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6 exhaust wheel. Incredible midrange to top end. 600cfm@15PSI of boost. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6-20G custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO6 compressor housing and machining a TDO5 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6 exhaust wheel. Incredible midrange to top end. 650cfm@15PSI of boost. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6/7-22C custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO7 compressor housing and machining a TDO6 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6H exhaust wheel made for more mid-renage to topend power. Insane midrange to top end. 700cfm@15PSI of boost. Also hans racecraft sells this turbo. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6/7-23D custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO7 compressor housing and machining a TDO6 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6H exhaust wheel made for more mid-renage to topend power. Insane midrange to top end. 730cfm@15PSI of boost. Also hans racecraft sells this turbo. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO6/7-24V custom job. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO7 compressor housing and machining a TDO6 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6H exhaust wheel made for more mid-renage to topend power. Insane midrange to top end. 800cfm@15PSI of boost. Also hans racecraft sells this turbo. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TD06/7-25G custom job. Sold by Greddy. Usually done using TDO6 cartridge, using a TDO7 compressor housing and machining a TDO6 exhaust housing to accept the TDO6/7 custom exhaust wheel made for Greddy. . Insane midrange to top end. 850cfm@15PSI of boost. Also hans racecraft sells this turbo. Sold by Greddy for MR2 and DSM Upgrade turbo kits. 8cm exhaust housing and it will need an adapter plate. TDO7-25G Greddy Turbo TDO7/8-33D Greddy Turbo TDO7/8-34V Greddy Turbo TDO8-33D Greddy Turbo TDO8-34V Greddy Turbo __________________ And on the eighth day turbo lag was created, to give the row goat's hope! For What It's Worth. KEN

Yea. I looked at a 1979 red Corvette with 80,000 miles on it last month in Phoenix. A grocery list of receipts about parts replaced. He wanted $22,500.00, I offered $20,000.00 cash.....The seller refused the offer. His loss.

Not a fan of red here. I like the blacks, blues, silver/greys, and whites

Not sure if you are the same person who posted this question on facebook or not. If not, there was a response put up yesterday with a video on how to do it. Only thing I'd do differently is not to use a metal screwdriver but rather a nylon trim tool. Also to get the last piece off around the mirror, you have to remove the mirror itself. The mirror is accessible by simply removing the plastic triangular piece on the inside but you will have to pull the door panel to unplug it. Once you remove the nut on the mirror and slide the mirror out with it's electrical cord, there is a screw hidden under the mirror to remove the last trim piece.

Stupid me thought this would be a fun project that I could take my time. I quickly realized I don't work well without some kind of due date or urgency. So put the car on the lift and tore it apart, I now must complete the underpinnings If I want my lift back. I'm not going to turn this into a restoration section ( I have decided this site is so dead I will clutter this up with more pictures of the restoration ) but will update when major milestones are completed. So the plan is 1. Paint complete undercarriage, No rust repair needed. 2. Install most of my full poly bushing kit. 3. Fuel tank rehab ( Its rusted bad inside ) clean inside and out paint / seal, internal pump. Update tank was so bad I purchased a used one. 4. Suspension / axle full disassembly of everything, paint and powder coat, bearings and seals replaced. 5. paint engine compartment, I have a color but need to pick a system. PPG will not be getting my money.

Been working on dropping the subframe on the Starion for a refresh. Pulled the whole thing out in one piece minus the suspension. Then I got to work knocking it all apart. Ahh ... the infamous torque tube. Subframe won't look like this when it goes back under the car.

I was finally able to turn the key on my black 88 on Saturday. It's been down since march with what started to be an auto to manual swap but found oil in the coolant which lead to a full teardown. It fired right up and runs/drives incredibly smooth!

Hello everyone, i found an old post from 2008 on this site. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=76158 Someone else had the same problem. I followed the instruction step by step. I found out that the "flash to pass" relais is not mounted on the firewall near the brake booster but behind the dash, left of the glove compartment. Off course thats with my car, European 1984 Starion Turbo EX. So what happened is that i put together the dash after painting the car a few months ago. The cable i marked that they go into a relais. When i put together the dash i plugged in a relais on which is written "antenna control relais". Must be it right? Next to the radio and the plug fits perfect! Wrong!!! The flash to pass relais is mounted behind the dash so i did not see it at first. Now i recognized that i plugged in the wrong relais. I changed the relais and everything works beautifully! Thanks for the help. The car sold today and the new owner is a real fan so it will be around for many more years. Greetzz from Holland!!!

Sorry to leave you guys hanging. I did finish the car up last Thursday, but then I went away for 4 days on a mini-vaca and I just got back yesterday, so I haven't had a chance to update this till now. With the subframe already installed under the car all I had to do to finish the rebuild was attach the hub assemblies with the new LCA bolts I got from Mookeeh. I started with the drivers side. First thing I did was apply anti-seize to the LCA. I don't ever want to have to take this apart again, but if I have to .... Picked the hub up and slid the LCA bolt through. Next I slide the little 12mm bolt into place that keeps the LCA from rotating into the hole you see in the center of the pic. Then I rotated the hub back into place, reattached the axles with the 6 bolts and then tightened the LCA bolt down to torque spec. Double check the FSM, but I believe I used 85 ft.lbs. First one on and done. Next I switched over to the passenger side and repeated the process. Took me a couple hours in the morning to do all this. After that, it was just a matter of finishing everything up that pretty much took me the rest of the day. I didn't take any pics b/c its more common stuff that's been covered in other topics/places, but here's a list of what I had to do: Fill the rear diff with gear oil (now that the axles were in) attach and reinstall the struts attach e-brake cables to LCA and to rear brakes. slide rotors back on reinstall rear brakes bolt-up the driveshaft re-hang the C-pipe and muffler plug fuel-pump harness back in reinstall all the carpet and panel pieces in the trunk. I ran out of time to actually put the wheels on the car, start it up and evaluate. That will be tomorrow ... fingers crossed.

R U going ? 1. Intercooledflatty - bringing something

Here's one more shot of how the underside came out before I start putting this back together. The only difference between this shot and the one above, is you'll notice I did decide in the end to take another 2 hours and redo the wheel wells as well. Glad I took the extra time. Time to put the gas tank back in. Pretty easy, only took about 15-20 minutes to get that all back into place. Next I got the filler-tube back in and I put the plastic splash shield back on in the rear wheel. I still don't have the spindles back from the machine shop, but I I'm going to put the subframe back under as is. It'll be a little bit lighter and it shouldn't be too hard to put the hub assembly on under the car. Here's another shot more overhead. Came out so pretty it's a shame to put it under the car. I was working by myself, so I used a combination of a dolly, my jack, and three 2x4's. I'm not gonna lie, it took me and hour or more to get this thing situated and bolted into place. A lot of trial and error until everything lined up just right and would slide onto the mounts. The more level you can make going back up under the car the easier it is. I finally got it though, here it is back in place: Oh, and lastly, I picked up my rear brake dust shields. They were finished. The look fantastic.c.

I agree with Bill. I've compared the "simulated narrowband" output from an Innovate wideband to a real narrowband sensor, and the wideband switches at about half the rate. I'd rather run my car on a real narrowband sensor.

I'm in Youhgstown, My son Bill (Coldscrip) is in Twinsburg.

I agree with the voltage. Many strange things have happened on mine when it dips below 10V. Give that a try and see if the logs look any better. Also take a trigger and a tooth log. That may show what's really going on.

I haven't updated this in about a month. Honestly, I've been so busy with work, not much has happened in the past month. I have off though June 13-17 so I am hoping a full week of 8 hour days in the garage and I should be able to get this back together - as long as I don't run into a.n unexpected problem. Here's where I am at. Memorial Day weekend I had a fire going, so I tossed in the rest of the old bushings I still need to clean them up a bit, but here's the sleeves all burnt off. I realized I never answered the question about the seized LCA bolt, I ended up taking it to a local shop so they could use a torch to get it out. They did, but the threaded end got bent slight under the cherry glow, it's hard to see in the pic, but it's pitched at an angle. So, after doing what I could to save a measly 40 bucks I ended spending it anyway. I also ordered up new rear diff seal and a new bearing for the torque tube. I think I have everything I need at this point, I just need to put it all back together and get the car back on the road for 2022.

*EDIT* Original purchaser cannot justify getting them shipped out so they are for sale again. White car has a title, black car does not. Throwing this up here for interest. Pulled this out from the back forty. 88 quest all original with a seized engine and manual trans. Never drove it, never even rode in it. Just got it because it was going to the scrapper. I want to offer it up to this community because it is a pretty straight original car. The wheels are 7&8s that were painted for some reason. https://imgur.com/a/Gp7uyMZ Huntsville Alabama

I did. I first weighed the rods to understand what I'm dealing with. Then weighed/balanced the large end. Once the large end was within .1g, I weighed them again and then got the weights within .1g by removing material on the pin end. Then weighed the pin ends..spot on...well within .1-.2g. Then double checked the large ends..same as they were from the earlier step. I could have fine tuned them slightly more but didn't want to remove too much material just to chase a tenth of a gram. I figured there is much more deviation than that brought on from my crude home-made balancing tool. The pictures above show weighing both ends and the rod as a whole. I'm pretty comfortable with the work, for I double-triple-quadruple checked them over and over.

So ever since the ISC swap it never has done the cut out problem. I have about 1100 miles on it now since I got it running at the first of the year. If I didn't have a company truck it would be my daily driver.

Figure I'd post an update on this. I'm still working on the car. Had to travel for business for a few weeks and spent this past Saturday at Carlisle Import Nationals with the blue car, but I'm still picking away at the black one. Those of you who know me, know that I love making tools! I use to do it for a living, well still kind of do but more on a managerial front now. Love making simple contraptions with stuff I have laying around the garage. Anywyas, I made this wrist pin press out of some old scrap bar stock and a 4T bottle jack. It worked slick! Next, I made a homemade connecting rod balancer jig. Nothing but some wood, a few L brackets, spare hardware, and a skateboard wheel. Bought the scale from amazon for $13. Surprisingly, it was very repeatable! The skateboard wheel was the trick. I tried a few things prior that didn't work too well. It's just a bushing on the other side. Would have been better if it was a ball bearing but I didn't have any small enough. I went down this rabbit hole because I was experiencing vibration on this car with the BSE. Found out the stock rods differed by up to 5 grams! And that wasn't just this particular engine, for I weighed the ones out of the donor engine is well. The pistons also differed by up to 4 grams! In the end, I balanced both the rods and pistons to within .1-.2g. Last, I made up a jig to hold the piston to install the wrist pins. Just factory style piston (.020 over) and pressed pin. Heated up the rod with a MAP torch and slid the pin in. The red bolt was used as a stop so I could slide the pin in quickly before the rod cooled down without having to try to visually center it. I didn't have any flat plate, so I used an old flywheel from a Jeep. It also worked slick. Painted and cleaned block. I didn't snap anymore photos yet but the engine is currently pretty much assembled. Bottom end is together. All the measurements were spot on, plastigage good, etc. Head/manifolds are on and torqued. Did a leak-down test to verify no leaks into the coolant or pass the valves. Then installed the cam and rockers but called it quits last night because it was late. Just need to install the timing stuff and cover/oil pan/etc. It should be ready to go back in the car in under 2 more hours of work. In parallel, got in the pedals for the 5 speed swap, master cylinder, and clutch line. Still need to do the access port for the 5 speed shifter. I'll do the trans mount last with the engine and trans in the car.

with the cups extended, I should be able to if I take it at the insane same angle as I did with my wrx

This past weekend was all about the rear diff. Needed a lot of time with the wire wheel. When I was moderately happy with it, I hit it with some primer. Then I brushed on some Gloss Smoke Grey. I used this on all my drivetrain parts on my Eclipse and it came out great and is holding up very well, so I figured I'd use it here again. Looks much better. I need to order axle seals. They appear to be in good shape and still supple. I didn't tear them removing the axles, but it will just be easier to replace them now.

I know this back from the tombs, but this intake flat out works, and well I might add.it’s been pushing a turbo most thought would laggy. Believe me it’s not .

The local machine shop kept bumping my job to the back of the list but they were finally able to knock it out last week! Got the block back on Friday. Boiled, magnafluxed, bored, and decked. Thankfully all of the rust cleared out with only a .020 overbore. So, theoretically, I should be well into this engine build....BUT, it was the first really nice spring weekend here. So, why work on this old hunk of junk: .....when I have this sitting next to it! Changed the oil, pumped up the tires, charged the battery, and installed a check valve in my fuel system (which I was meaning to do last year) and I was driving it within an hour. I'll start on the black car's engine build next weekend, haha.

I think it all has to do with some Brandon guy.

Most times I see the small plug missing on the brake or clutch pedal for the switch to turn off cruise when pedal is pushed in . it gets brittle and breaks apart, I think we used a plastic body pin like type to hold interior door panels on. Take a look and see if yours is missing. Dad

For those of you that have repaired cruise control issues what did you find was the reason yours quit? Mine hasn't worked since I got the car running, I have checked and verified that the vacuum pump and relay work. The speed sensor seems to work because it will effect idle when the car is moving(if that has anything to do with cruise I don't know). I also get the light on the stalk when the cruise is turned on, but I get zero function. Brake lights function correctly, cruise computer is plugged in. Before I go to the service manual with diagnosis what have you guys found to be the problem? I assume the setup down at the transmission end of the speedometer cable has something to do with cruise. I have a spare one of those to try but have yet to do so. Thanks for any help.

If you adjusted the play in the box its easy to make them too tight. They are most worn in the straight ahead position. When you adjust them to make that right they often can be too tight when turned farther to the less worn parts.

Usually vacuum issues from what I have seen. Mine had a cable with most of the sheath gone, but still worked.

Mine was the vacuum / cable module. I gave up on if. The sheathing was missing in parts and melted in other parts, and the vacuum diaphragm was torn.

I do not. It does take an honest 24 hours for this stuff to dry though. The rate at which I complete projects it's not a problem. 🤣

ahhh Shelby RIP. I remember being a little 16 yo kid asking him questions trying to get my first car running. he was such a good dude.

Speed Star Racing Professor SP1 high disk in Super Black Coat 18x9 +19 front with 20mm spacer 18x10 +19 rear with 1.5 inch spacer Muteki Lug nuts in red http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Image23.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Image6.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Dsc_0009.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Image5.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Image7.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Image17.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/side.jpg