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  1. ** For anyone viewing this Resto Thread there is about 6 years of posts and conversation missing. I have all the pics still, so I may try to rebuild it, maybe not. Of course it would be missing all the real-time replies. For now, I will at least start at the beginning and work my way through re-linking all the broken pictures so that what's here is viewable.
    3 points
  2. This guide is more geared for those looking to upload directly from their phones as I think that's how most of you are getting your pictures/videos these days. Download the Imgur app from the App Store/Play store Once installed, launch it, and it'll ask for an account. If you have one already, sign in. If not, make one. Don't forget your password. Once signed in, tap the "+" icon to upload an image/video At the next page, there should be a green button asking for permission to view your photos. Tap it to grant the Imgur app permission to your phone's storage Now you should see your pictures/videos in the app. Select them, then tap "Next" At the final page, it will ask for a title, which is optional. Enter one if you want If you're uploading a video, there should now be a crossed-out speaker icon in the top-right. Tap that to UNMUTE your video if you wish Tap Upload in the top-right to upload it to Imgur Once it's finished uploading, there should be a green notification. Tap that to view your post If it's not there, just tap the profile icon in the bottom-right to see all of your account's uploads Open your picture/video (if not opened already), then long-press it and tap "Copy Post Link" (or "Copy URL" from the Android app) Paste the link directly into your post here on the forum If your link ends with .png/.jpg (the file type), the new forum software should pick up on it and automatically embed your picture in your post. This unfortunately does not seem to work for Imgur videos (yet).
    2 points
  3. Wow it’s been over a decade since I’ve been on this forum! Wasn’t very active back then anyways. But glad to see it’s still alive! As some of you know, through other social medias like FB and Instagram. That we have been working on producing composite parts for the Starquest community. As of right now, we’ve got the header panel and headlight covers made. We’re finishing up molds for the 83 hood scoop and vents, interior door trim pieces, and have been working towards making an 83 hood. So in case any of you didn’t know that these are available. They are, and here are the prices. Please feel free to reach out to us through private messages or email at BoostedDiamonds@gmail.com Header Panel $420 + shipping and fees (shipping has been between $50-$110 with insurance upto $600) Headlight Cover replacements $300 shipped + fees. *These are actual replacements for your oem headlight covers and not just a skin or layover.* Thank you to all who have supported and help make all of this possible! Wishing everyone a Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year!!!
    2 points
  4. But it is worth every penny! Then you know for sure what is going on with your air fuel mixture.
    2 points
  5. that's president brandon to you.
    2 points
  6. Haven't had a Quest in like 7 years and pop in here on occasion. Just picked up a Yellow 89, SHP car but missing the rims. Pretty solid but needs love. Gonna try not to go overboard with this one.
    2 points
  7. Automatic was only available on LE trim for both the starion and conquest variants in 87 (86 too). It's documented in the product literature. One of the reasons why I like 86/87 widebodies, no question on the transmission. They are all stick. I've also noticed that it appears to be harder to find an 87 LE in manual. Although I never proved that with production number breakdowns, it has just been something I noticed over the years.
    2 points
  8. It's been a minute. I don't recall the last time I browsed here, I did lurk when I heard of Shelby's passing. Last week I came across a box of 86 sensors he sent to me, and I seeing his name on that address brought a lot of memories back. My Starion has been hard parked for about 4 years, the head cracked on me. I didn't overheat it, but the repair on a previous crack failed. With the help of my friend, I got a replacement used head (from @IntercooledFlatty) installed and she is up and running again. Not in the greatest condition, but the important part is it's driveable. Getting back into this car is like coming home after a long trip abroad. First pic of the first test drive in many many years: Glad to see all the familiar names, like seeing old faces at a reunion. -Robert
    2 points
  9. A couple more from last fall when I got the MN collector plates on it. I really like how these look!
    2 points
  10. I sense a powerful website Necromancer nearby. SQC has maroon interior now
    2 points
  11. Thanks again! This helped me know where to dig and sure enough the wire was broken down in the harness. I was also able to make a trip out to my parts car today and it still had that wire so I clipped it out and repaired mine.
    1 point
  12. Merry Christmas everyone!
    1 point
  13. Merry Christmas to all.
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. The wires that go to the magnet clutch are a plug with both a black/white wire and a ground. Hope this helps. Bill
    1 point
  16. If you are talking about the filter under the hood, follow the line on the bottom of the filter back towards the fuel tank and you will find a connector approx. 1-2 feet down the line. Take it apart there and take the filter out with the line. Put the filter in a vice and you should be able to loosen the bolt then. Jimmy
    1 point
  17. Yeah, she has 15ish desirable cars that she has lost interest in, several 240/280 Z cars, few old mustangs, MK2 Supra *which I am going to be helping her get road worthy* few F100 pick ups, and some others too. Between working on flood control for her property, doing a home remodel, and travel for work many months out of the year, I spent 2 years begging her to sell me the car before it rusts out. Yeah, I plan on taking pix of where it sits now, getting it pulled out, and once I get it home, I will go through the car to see what is there, what it needs, and the condition of the under side, fingers crossed that it is not rusted out.
    1 point
  18. Hmm ... I don't remember having a problem there. That's a pretty big loop. I would worry about it being kinked against something on the underside of the car. Maybe try a slightly more flexible hose? IT doesn't need to be a high pressure rated line on that side of the pump, but you don't want it to collapse under a vacuum either. I would head to the local parts store and ask to start hunting through their formed fuel lines. I bet you can find something close enough to do the trick.
    1 point
  19. Not running the banshee. Its sitting on the bench looking at me. Been through a bunch in the last year so no work has really been done to either of my quests. Ive got it, the rockers and shims. Itll probably be up for sale. It was a piece of history I wanted.
    1 point
  20. Just just check for rust everywhere. Passenger frame rail in particular. It looks solid, but rust is killer with these cars. I don't see any underneath pics.. All the wheel wells and rockers are prone. In my opinion anything mechanical can be fixed but you have to have a solid foundation to start with.
    1 point
  21. Welcome back old man. Good to see you here again. Thanks for coming back to help
    1 point
  22. If you know what you're looking for, you can also find old topics with (don't laugh) Bing, and load the cached version. Google has cached versions of pages too, but I've found that Bing is better at it for some reason. The text is all there, and the images will show too if they were hosted somewhere other than SQC. I was able to recover my FAQ threads this way, and I'll repost them at some point.
    1 point
  23. Just for fun here's another picture of a tank
    1 point
  24. If your Aeromotive 13105 stops working properly. don"t go out and buy a new one at $220.00. Most likely it is a bad diaphram cost $36.53 shipped from aeromotiveinc.com. Hope this helps someone, Bill
    1 point
  25. Leave the stock Sensor in place, or replace it with a three wire. Go appox. 36 inches down from the turbo outlet and install a bung in the exhaust pipe on top of the pipe or at least at a 45 degree angle so as not to come in contact with condensation in the bottom of the exhaust pipe to install your AFR gauge sensor. This hook up shows you what the wideband AFR gauge is reading in real time without screwing with the ECU.
    1 point
  26. Those hardlines aren't that big of a deal. Sometimes they crud up with time anyways. Yes, just bypass them with rubber hose. For the vapor tank; it doesn't have to be that sophisticated, it just needs something to hold it to in order to keep it from moving around. If it was a rebuilt tank that hasn't had any fuel in it yet, I would be just tacking in some steel to make new brackets. If you don't have a welder, or don't want to do that, you could try some JBweld if you have a large enough clamp to get around the tank to press it in position until it cures. The brackets are nothing more than just bent pieces of sheet metal. If memory serves me correctly, there is only one screw in the one bracket. The other two just sandwich the plastic. Could also just band it to the tank from the tank lips. Something like a cinch strap may work
    1 point
  27. Good idea, will do. I actually have a bunch of Toyota FIPG stashed away from my previous occupation.
    1 point
  28. Clean them up and use a dab of black RTV if you're worried. Should be good to go. I made my own for the pickup when I tore it upon disassembly.
    1 point
  29. Best ones I have of a tank in stock condition (minus an aftermarket stock replacement pump)
    1 point
  30. I guess I'm at the final stage of grief when it comes to the loss of information due to the data center issue of this site. Acceptance that is. I know I've been through the Denial, Anger, and Bargaining phases haha. I don't think Depression is applicable, for it is just a car site. But anyways, I have started to fix the links to my threads in the FAQ section..yet again. If you remember, the hosting site for my photos was revamped last year and it broke all of my photo links. I had to manually update each link address in every one of my posts to fix the issue. Well due to the data center issue here, it reverted all of these back. I was sitting tight to see if the administrators would have any success with a later backup but I haven't heard anything. So, I started the re-link process again. The good news is that most of my threads are still here, for they were created prior to 2015 (with the exception of most of my restoration thread on my blue conquest and all of my black conquest restoration thread...arghhhh). Also, I'm able to paste a larger photo in the threads now due to the new site instead of the thumbnail links that I did last year. This will help and add clarity. So, I'll be slowly fixing these all up again. Here is the list of threads I'll be touching and what my status is: Suspension, Steering, Brakes FAQ: How to Rebuild a Steering Box (with spool supplement) <-- COMPLETE 11/9/21 How to Rebuild the Steering Column (need to add ignition switch rebuild, for it was lost) <-- COMPLETE 11/9/21 Rear Brake Caliper Assembly <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Transmission, Clutch, and Drivetrain FAQ: How to Rebuild our Differential and Torque Tube <-- COMPLETE 11/9/21 How to Rebuild an 88/89 Manual Transmission (including short shifter installation, for it was lost) <-- COMPLETE WITH EXCEPTION TO THE SHORT SHIFTER INSTALLATION 11/19/21 88/89 KM1432 Transmission Bearing P/N's and info <-- COMPLETE 11/19/21 How to Do a Zero Play Clutch Pedal (my posts in JohnnyWadd's thread) <-- COMPLETE 11/9/21 6 Bolt CV Axle Boots (my posts in CaliConquestAlex' thread) <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Body-Interior/Exterior FAQ: Restoration of our Rear Tail-Lights <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Sound Deadening Installation <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Door Popper Installation <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Heat and A/C FAQ: How to Rebuild the Heater Box and Blower Motor Assemblies <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Cams Forum: 3.0L Roller Rocker Arms <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Roller Camshaft Discussion - Data Collection (this thread was in process when the site was restored and all the newer posts are gone) <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21, did the best I could to summarize the lost info...but it has been too long for me to remember everything Let me know if I missed any. I will say that the transmission ones will be last to fix, for they are the longest. Actually, I'm going to be embarking on another KM132 rebuild soon and plan on taking new photos of the disassembly to fix the thread due to an inadvertent deletion of the original photos on my hard drive years ago. On a side note, I've been requesting that anyone fill in the gap and shoot me over their photos so I could update the thread. You would think in seven years, someone would have come through on this request...wishful thinking. Ok, rant over. If all things go as planned, I may be putting together a detailed automatic to manual transmission swap thread...but I don't want to get ahead of myself on that one just yet. Kevin
    1 point
  31. All photo links repaired in this thread, let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.
    1 point
  32. Hmm, staring at my photos a bit more.... Here is the photo of the engine before installation. The white mark on the flexplate is on the top. Now here is a photo of the engine compartment immediately before we put the engine in. The white mark on the converter is on the bottom That tells me that I installed it originally 180 degrees out and, with what I did the past weekend, I should have it clocked correctly now. But, I'm known to beat a dead horse, and WILL be confirming this.
    1 point
  33. That's like asking a bunch of drug addicts and dealers if you should continue to use meth If you got the space, money, and energy to make sure it doesn't sit around and rot away, go for it bro. 4k for a running driving flatty seems reasonable to me, but I'm pretty new to the SQ game. At the very least, try to be someone else's enabler and convince them to buy it.
    1 point
  34. I haven't been able to get bbcode working either on the laptop. But if I just put the image link, it shows. I use to be able to do this and it would show the photo: [IMG]https://www.hotrodders.com/media/img_1209-jpg.197370/full[/IMG] But now just leave out the [img] [/img] and it pops right up
    1 point
  35. I think the most likely reason is due to exhaust heat compromising the seal between the taillight lens and the housing over time, causing condensation and leading to water buildup on the inside. It's the only explanation I can think of that would be consistent across all the environments this happens in. AFAIK the only way to permanently fix that is to re-seal the lens to the housing and possibly modify/relocate the tailpipe.
    1 point
  36. GoldStar check now. I adjusted your information. Let me know if you can't post in all forums. Jimmy
    1 point
  37. Picked this up a few weeks ago. Bought it from. LocL guy who has it for 20 years in his garage. Hasn’t run since 2016. Hoping this could be a nice father daughter/son winter project. It turns over but won’t start unless I feed it with mass airflow cleaner. Oil smells like gas and when I pulled plugs it’s running rich. Fuel injector was dumping fuel so I sourced and so installed the Southbay Fuel injectors. Tank was bone dry and fuel pump is working. Thinking of changing fuel filters x 2 and then maybe new fuel pump. I can replace plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. What else should I check?? appreciate all the help!!
    1 point
  38. I have one and it's a great. Don't trust these picks though https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/pinch-weld-pucks/ they don't stack and they slide around, don't ask me how i know. These are a better buy, but they touch parts of the body https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/pinch-weld-blocks/
    1 point
  39. You can blow the motor up or turn into a toad
    1 point
  40. What happens when I mix different weights of oil??
    1 point
  41. Ryddler is working on a static snapshot from June 2021. Once that is complete we should be able to find the topic on Cams and copy it manually back to the forums. Jimmy
    1 point
  42. Glad we're back and yes it sux about loosing 6 years. Rarely on fb so happy to see all your smiling faces
    1 point
  43. Hello new site.
    1 point
  44. I hear you. It sucks. Although ryddler believes he has some information that could be used to resurrect some of the key threads...even if it is only a text file that could be used to copy from. Hopefully we know more soon.
    1 point
  45. Ok guys, here it is, the be-all...end-all vacuum line removal thread, enjoy The list of ports (22 in all) 1. Vacuum Retard Diaphram (directly on top of the distributor) 2. Top Port on the TB, right where the OVCP meets the TB 3. Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (black box on the drivers side of the VC) 4. Thermo Valve (2 ports) 5. EGR (3 ports) 6. SACA Solenoids (5 ports) 7. Main Vacuum source (3 ports) 8. Bottom port, this feeds the vac storage, cruise, and runs to the vac pump in front 9. Vacuum Storage (not pictured), mounted to the side of the shock tower 10. Cruise Control (not pictured), mounted to the front of the shock tower 11. Vacuum pump (not pictured), mounted right beside the drivers headlight 12. Purge Control Valve (2 ports), directly under the aircan Now, depending on what you're wanting to do with your car, your position on the environment, and whether or not you need a smog test to get a state inspection, it's possible to remove some of the vacuum lines and clean up the engine bay a LOT. For a pure race car you'd probably just need 1 stock line (slightly relocated), that'd be a line running from the top of the TB (labeled #2), to the Vacuum Retard Diaphram (labeled #1), this is the only line that is an absolute necessity. However, if you want, for example, your inside head & foot vents to work properly, you'll need to keep the line running from the bottom of the TB (labeled #8 ) going to the Vacuum Storage canister (labeled #9) (+ the single, small vacuum line running from it's nearest "T" into the firewall [not pictured or labeled]). Since this comes up frequently I'll address it here, the vac port you use for a BOV is labeled Main Vacuum Source (#7), you'll use the one closest to the firewall if you're looking at it from the drivers side fender. If you need a smog test to pass a state inspection you'll probably need to keep everything, each vacuum assisted item has its place. If you've removed the catalytic converters you won't be needing the Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (labeled #3), it supplies fresh air to the catalysts. ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1 point
  46. I have been born again. Shame too, didn't even have have enough time to make a proper fool of myself. I've already received a bunch of help from some of you in a past life, but I thought I'd re-introduce. Picked up this 87 Conquest back in February this year off of a kid who only had it for 2 weeks. Has ~160k miles, GM MAF+MAF Translator, Delphi/Trilogy injectors, and a 12a with a 18g? upgraded compressor wheel. It appears to be an original Valencia Gold car, but it's been Maaco'd at one point, so all the gold you see is actually the 2nd coat on top of the original. No evidence of body damage though, and thankfully no rust. The car spent most of it's life in Washington until it made it's way down here in 2007. It actually still has stickers for NWStarquest.com on the windows, albeit appropriately faded by sun exposure. After doing some Wayback Machine stalking of those forums, I found it was owned by someone going by b_mart24, so if any of you run into him, let him know I got some questions. I've already done a bunch of stuff to it, even called the tow truck twice so far. Replaced the head with a NJV, had the steering box rebuilt by Redhead, rebuilt the turbo, and a bunch more with no sign of stopping now. Right now it's off the road as I'm getting the fuel tank cleaned out and relined. Once I get it back on the road I'm hoping to tackle the some running quirks it's got, maybe get some coilovers from MKS. Here are a couple of pics:
    1 point
  47. Cool, then i can away with this...."Anyone got a mint 83 hood for cheap?"
    1 point
  48. Just let me know if I should ban Jimmy, or let him do it himself again...
    1 point
  49. 1 point
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