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psu_Crash last won the day on August 27

psu_Crash had the most liked content!

About psu_Crash

  • Birthday 08/05/1980

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  • Interests
    400+ WHP 450+ WTQ!!
  • Location
    Decatur TN
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  • Factory Color
    Sarajevo White
  • Interior Color
    Dark Red
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  1. Sounds like you found the problem. Glad it was something simple!
  2. I think this is the kit I have (or very similar). Not having to use a hammer is always a better way, in my opinion. https://a.co/d/2FswANO FYI your problem doesn't sound like a bearing to me. Something in the brakes making noise? I have had stuff get in the caliper before and cause all kinds of W T F moments.
  3. They may be built to order. I'd send a message asking about availability.
  4. Man ... hate to hear that!!! Sounds to me like the car had issues and the previous owner knew it. I'm with Kev. I have destroyed a half dozen G54 blocks over the years. Not because they were weak. It was always a tune or build failure. Built right they can handle 400 wheel horse all day. Easy to rebuild and best of all it bolts right back in. Or a wideblock 4G64/63 engine is also a bolt in option with a lot of power and reliability potential. Hard to find parts and it requires some know how. Check out this site https://projectzerog.com/ Now with all of that said. My white car will forever be 4G54. The valencia car on the other hand, has a gen 3 LS sitting on the stand. I figured the best of both worlds ?? One day I'll actually get started on the swap. I'm told the JZ swaps are much easier than a V8 swap. Just based on the cylinder configuration, I'm sure it is. We are all gluttons for punishment here though.
  5. Good to see you back! The forums are still alive! ... ish 🙂
  6. Just FYI torque spec on the valve cover is important. It isn't supposed to be as tight as you think. Many an over tightened VC have been warped and leaked.
  7. Running fresh wire to the pump is always a good idea. We have seen a lot of issues over the years due to a bad ground or bad connection. I did add a separate relay for the fuel pump. The main reason for me was to have it controlled by my stand alone instead. No reason you couldn't use the stock relay output to trigger another relay of your choice though.
  8. Welcome Snake! I was also watching that car on BaT. Looks like a sound investment, even with the issues. I didn't realize the pump no longer available!?
  9. That's what I was thinking too. Also not sure how rugged those trilogy regulators are. Could be an internal problem with the regulator.
  10. I have never seen one apart so I'm not much help. Have a pic? Sounds like it is epoxied in there.
  11. Welcome back! Pics don't seem to work for me? Yeah ... a few things have changed around here. Mine had pretty severe front end pass side damage in the late 80s. Long before I bought the car and unknown to me when I did. They cut a BIG chunk from about the hood latch to the center of the wheel well. Then welded in a donor piece ... poorly. I had a frame shop look at it once I realized how far off things were in the area. Nope. Because it was technically missing material, they couldn't (and didn't want to try) to pull it back straight/sqaure. A few hidden spacers and a couple slots. Pretty much the only option aside from start cutting. Which I did do some cutting and welding to help ... some.s Holds alignment very well even after seasons of autocross. Good enough 🙂
  12. Welcome Back! It's true, most have went to the facebook these days, but I'm still here too. Much better structured information here, without (as much) BS
  13. That's the first thing I thought of too. Seems most of the issues are something controlled by the ETAC unit. Or possibly a bad connection to it.
  14. Lookin Good! That's a cool trophy for the shelf
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