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kev

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kev last won the day on September 19

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  • Location
    PA
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    Male

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  • Zip Code
    17202
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  • Model Year
    1987
  • Interior Color
    Black
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    On the road

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  1. The bearing inside wears with time. These PS pumps frustrate the heck out of me. I have the photos for the rebuild but I never put up a thread because the pump still leaked after rebuild...twice, even with a high end double lip seal. Then I had another one that didn't leak but wouldn't build pressure. For how simple these things are, they've given me so much grief.
  2. Cool! Thanks for posting this. I have this on my list of things to do on my driver conquest. I keep putting it off because I tried years back to separate one of these lights and broke it in the process.
  3. There are a few of us still around, here and on facebook. I was just near Albany, OR last week actually.
  4. Here are some photos On the one side, you will see a small square 'dot'. This side has a lip and chamfer to accept the clip on the main shaft. This faces to the back of the pump, or 'out' as I have it marked for assembly. As seen, the other side doesn't have any chamfer or lip. So for assembly, put it on as follows: With the clip on, you have to push the pump impeller up and seat it into that lip/chamfer so it fits in there good. Because what happens is that the back cover of the pump pushes against the main shaft. See the recessed section in this photo that I have lubricated. So, if your impeller isn't seated in the clip properly or on backwards, when the back cover goes on, it pushes the shaft forward and mashes the impeller into the body. A little off-topic but when you install the vanes in the impeller, make sure they are facing the correct direction. There is a radius on one side (the right side in the photo below). This faces out in the impeller. I don't have a good shot of the bearing in the pump body but it is a sleeve bearing style with fluid passageway groove, etc. You can kind of see it under the seal in the photo below. This bearing wears with time and it doesn't take much to start a leak, even with a new seal. I don't have a source for a new bearing but something must exist because the Cardone rebuilt units have a new bearing installed. I still didn't believe it could be the bearing because I even tested the deflection per the 87 FSM and it came out in spec...but still leaked like made after rebuild. Tearing it a part up to three times with even polishing the shaft to practically a mirror and installing a double lipped oil seal (as shown below) still didn't fix the leak. This pump is still laying in a box in my workbench, years later. I found a Carbone rebuilt until and that is what is in the car now. Somewhere I have the ID measurements of the inner bearings between this pump and the rebuilt pump. I don't recall the values but we were talking around 1-2 thousands of a difference....the difference between leaking vs not.
  5. It sounds like you put the pump wheel on backwards. There is a dot machined into it that indicates the direction. I believe it faces towards the back of the pump, if memory serves me correctly but the FSM states it. If it is on backwards, the clip will not push into the correct chamfer and when you put the back plate of the pump on, it will jamb up like it is doing for you. Also, if your front leak was pretty severe, a rebuild may not do the trick. I've found that the bearing wears with time and causes it to still leak with a new seal.
  6. I have under $3k invested in MPI specifics on my one conquest. That’s all the G54B needs, a good MPI manifold and a stand alone MPI. I use SDS EMC. Some people shame it but it’s inexpensive and easily tunable.
  7. ETACS has nothing to do with the engine electronics. Keep the factory main harness that runs through the LH side of the engine compartment and interior. The engine harness that runs on the RH side of the engine compartment is in-needed if you are swapping but you’ll need a few wires for your tach and starter. All of these Chevy and Toyota swaps lately, I don’t really understand the hype to be honest. But, I’ll keep my biased opinions to myself haha. Just please finish the swap and don’t let it become just another parts car in the years to come (which has been something I noticed to be a trend with cars that start down the ‘swap’ process).
  8. Just to add a bit of a warning; the mechanical rocker arms on 83-84 cars need the proper rocker arms shafts associated with the mechanical rockers.
  9. Yeah, I keep getting refills for the few sets of oem wipers I still have. It’s been difficult to find aftermarket wiper arms that actually fit good, well since forever. Even in the early 90s, they were hard to find. Even if they came with the pins, they never seemed to fit in the pin properly
  10. Good to hear it is still around and still looking good. there was a member here years back with a light pastelish blue one who dumped tons of money into it. The member was in Delaware. He went silent and it turned up years later in a field, all rotted away, and ended up being a parts car. Was a shame to see. it’s always good to see these cars still running, especially the ones from prominent former members of these boards. Best of luck with it!
  11. It looks to be in great shape. I don't see any rust there which is very unique for a car in New Jersey. Congrats! Look forward to hearing how you fix it up.
  12. Posting a link to the thread in the Transmission Swap forum:
  13. OK, well that took me a lot longer than I expected to put this together. Sorry that my photos are so bad, I think it is time to retire that old digital camera. But I think the write-up is very complete and all inclusive even with dark and fuzzy pictures. I'd like to add a few other minor things to this in the future such as the dimensions for the trans tunnel cutout (I know I have them and just misplaced them) and the 'manipulation' of the pedals to get them spaced where you would like in the end. But, as I said, I put enough time into making this thread for now and need a break haha. One thing I realized on this new site is that there is no longer a photo limit for a single post. This let me break the process out evenly in sections. Each post is a section. Read the title of each section and determine if you want to follow it or skip to the next. I'll open up the thread now and let others comment. Hopefully others will add photos on how they addressed the cross-member and other items of fabrication. I think areas could have been simplified even further but my goal was to make it as stock looking as possible. I'm not a fan of hacking things up just enough to make them work. Hope this helps others who go down this path. Kevin
  14. Final Touches: Almost done. There are a few more items to address and the interior has to go back together of course. Going back to the engine compartment, hook up your heater core lines and vac booster And definitely don’t forget to plug the vacuum line in your manifold. The manual cars had a plug here that you could install but this would be the perfect place to connect a BOV. But for my car, I capped it for now. So now all that is left is the interior. I’ll post a few photos here but most of it is obvious and just a repeat of the disassembly. I’d recommend putting in the carpet first, then the kick-panels and dead pedal before the dash. It is just easier. Driver’s kick-panel Passenger kick-panel Dead pedal Next up is the dashboard installation which is covered by the following thread: And from here on out, you have the ETACS, lap belts on 87-89s, sill panels, and the seats. I think those are pretty obvious, so I will skip the photos. The last item is to swap the trim in the console. Remove the six screws And the radio side plates And the six screws on the radio trim plate Pop out the radio trim plate and then the shifter trim plate Set in the manual trim plate And put it all back together Pop in your shift boot It’s ready to go in Installing the shifter insulation first And follow along with the dash installation to install the console and shift knob You now have a manual transmission! There are a few items you may want to look into. Take a look at your pedals good. You may need to manipulate them a bit. I tweaked my gas pedal a bit but also bent the brake pedal a little over to the left because my foot kept clipping the brake when I was on the gas. They are pretty easy to bend. For the brake pedal, just connect vise grips to it and use a bar over them as a lever arm to bend it a bit (I'll try to put my setup back together, snap a picture, and add it here later). The gas pedal is bendable by hand. Other things you will need to do is to adjust your clutch engagement once you fire up the car and tighten your locknut on the clutch master cylinder clevis. Verify your reverse lights worth and your cruise control works. Obviously if the car started, your inhibitor switch is wired correctly. Well that is about it. Enjoy shifting gears!
  15. Heater Core and Shifter Installation: Lay the original insulation back over the tunnel You will have to remove that console bracket and place it back on over the insulation Set the trim ring in position, mark and cut the insulation Now follow that line with about a ½” greater Cut it out Let’s install the heater core. I’m just going to show photos. It’s the same process as removal but in reverse. And now back to the shifter. Removing my tape. Put your transmission fluid in now. Loctite you bolts and install your gasket And install Use the same bolts that held down the automatic shifter to install the shifter ring
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