kev

I definitely will keep this in mind. Thanks for posting it!

Wow, that was one detailed write-up! The first thing I would do is focus on that BOV. I have a feeling it is opening when it shouldn't and causing unmetered air to enter the engine and creating your stalling issue. I'm not sure your BOV type, but remove it, if possible, or unhook it and 100% verify it cannot open in any situation. Then try it out for a bit to see if it resolves the stalling issue and really overall drivability. I really have a hunch that this the problem. I've also had issues with the third rear port not being sufficient enough for proper BOV operation. I typically tap into the brake booster port or connect to the intake port in the 3/4 runner that supports the transmission on auto cars (there is a plug there on manual cars). I really only use the 3rd vacuum port for the boost gauge. While you are focusing on the BOV, take the time to check all of your intake hoses/clamps/etc. to make sure you are not letting in unmetered air. Just the slightest leak past the MAS will result in major drivability issues on these cars. I am a bit concerned about how long it was overheating. Unfortunately, our heads don't handle much of an overheating event. It may be prudent to do a compression test to verify you don't have any cracks (focus on cylinders 2 and 3). Although, this wouldn't cause the stalling issue. edit: I updated your post count to 50 to alleviate any issues you may have posting in the forums on here. Back when this site was very active, we had posting restrictions to new members, which sometimes continues to cause issues. kev

It's an 84...sequential injectors...no green one. But, it could still be a clogged injector. Any leaks in the intake system (between turbo and injectors). On 84s, it is common that the o-rings on the turbo to OVCP leak bad. That will cause unmetered air to enter the system and drastically lean out the car. It's air/fuel related. Start simple with cleaning your injectors and making sure they are spraying and check to make sure you aren't pulling in any air after the MAS. Once you know those items are good, move forward with harder items.

I don't think I could do it with my car. 20 years it took to restore it and I've owned it for almost 28 years. Yes, I agree, that I enjoyed building it more than driving it..especially being that I have so much work and money into it that I'm always afraid it is going to break, or I mess something up...but I don't think I could sell it. I know I'd always regret if I let it go. I'd rather pass it on to one of my kids one day. I'd love the cash to build my 68 mustang, which I have owned since 2009 and basically sits as a shell untouched in my garage, but I'll slowly build that one up too as time and money permits just as I did with the cq. I still kick myself for selling my first car, 84 starion, back in 1995. That's the car I'd have all restored now if I wouldn't have been so drawn to a wide-body in my teens (and not enough resources to keep the 84 too). But I do understand the drive to own other cars. There are several I'd love to own. I always wanted a foxbody mustang, for some reason, but now the prices are going high like our cars...and I'd actually want it bone stock. Also, really would like a british roadster, something modest and simple like a spitfire or MGB would be more than sufficient. I no longer have the draw to 'fast' cars like I use to. I find that the more I age, the more I don't care about that. I drive my mpi cq like a grandpa, which is the fastest car I own or ever owned. I even traded in my daily driver ram 1500 with a 390hp hemi for a jeep gladiator 3.6l 6speed manual that struggles to get out of its own way...and I love driving it more than I ever did the ram. Well, I'm hoping you have a change in heart and keep it because you have always been such a prominent member of the community but fully understand the reasoning for letting her go. kev

Thank you for posting this! It is very informative. Let us know if you have luck figuring out why the light is staying on (probably will have to make a new thread due to restrictions in the FAQ forum but we can merge it into this one later on). But regardless, this is great news for the community on a replacement of an obsolete part.

I saw on FB that you are considering selling the car. How come?

BTW: These just came back in stock on SPA's site. I jumped on it and ordered one. Last time I hesitated, and they sold out quick. edit: added link Dodge Conquest / Mitsubishi Starion Fuel Pressure Regulator FPR – SPA TURBO USA Received in less than 24 hours! I also ordered a pressure gauge and fitting from amazon. I'm still waiting on the amazon items but the SPA part is here...impressive. Kev

The C clips hold the brake rotor against the hub. The rotor slides on over the studs on the hub and the c-clips get inserted over the studs against the rotor. They honestly are not required, they just help installing your brake pads. I totally forgot to look up the bearing installer sizes this weekend.

Sorry it took me a bit to respond. Here are the photos I found. I only have pictures of the assembly. Now that I found the photos, I can check the sizes on two of the bearing tools I used (the gold and the silver ones). Doesn't look like I snapped a photo of the oil seal installation which I used a larger one for. I'll get back to you on the sizes of those two though.

Just need a typical bearing installation tool. They are available at harbor freight, amazon, etc. You can use it to drive in the bearing races for both the inner and outer bearings as well as properly install the seal. To remove them, the bearings themselves just fall out (after removing the oil seal) and you can drive out the races with a punch and hammer. You 'may' be able to install the races and seal with appropriate diamter sockets..if you have them. I can dig up some photos, if you would like.

I have a totally different view when it comes to swaps. The only swap I would even consider would be a later model mitsubishi engine. I find drivetrain swaps equivalent to a Fiero with a Ferrari body kit on it. It's not a Ferrari but it is no longer a Fiero, so what is it...a kit car (something that I always find myself frowning upon). At least with using a Mitsu engine, it is still a Mitsubishi. It bothers me when members trash talk the 2.6L, which is a daily occurrence it seems in the FB SQ groups. That's essentially trash talking a starquest as a whole, in my opinion. The G54B is frustrating, I agree. Every platform/engine has its weak link or flaw. I do agree that the G54B head is an issue but knowing that and maintaining the car by doing simple modifications, like reverting to an earlier model reliable clutch fan, etc., mitigates that issue. The frustrating part is actually the engine management system, which is harder to get around. MPI conversion is the best bet but is costly including sourcing/fabricating parts to make it work. But I'll say that I love my MPI G54B! It is definitely not a 'boat anchor'. Are there newer, more efficient, platforms...of course there are. We are talking about 40 year old technology here but it is a decent engine with potential (it just takes a bit more work to get that potential due to limited available parts or aftermarket support). I do feel that a starquest with the original G54B will become more valuable with time, based on comparison with older cars like mustangs, camaros, etc. Who knows though, maybe the fad of engine swaps will 'stick' and all of these older cars will be more desirable with a newer platform but that is not the case with the 50+ year old cars. They went through the same history where they were worth nothing for years, then people heavily modified them, swapped in larger engines, etc., but now the money is in an OEM car.

Which harness? There are many harnesses on our cars. I'm assuming the engine harness? If so, the only other year that 'might' work, emphasizing the might, is an 85. An 83 will not, nor will an 86 or 87-89. Which connectors does it need? Depending on the connector, other year harness may work to splice it in.

I roll my eyes on some of the 'know-it-all's' who chose to comment on BaT. I'd have no patience with that.

There weren't any white sqs with black interior, only red or buckskin. You may find some cars that are, but they wouldn't be original.

Fuse 5. Take a look at page 8-75 of the manual. Fuse 5 and 12 could be culprits. Also check your red fusible links...but you would be having other issues if it was one of those. With that said, the blower motor tends to accumulate debris over the years (and potentially water depending on how the car has been treated). The motor/brushes get grimy. The bearings could seize, etc. As indicated above, do you have power to the motor?