Jump to content

kev

Moderators
  • Posts

    2580
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    41

kev last won the day on March 19

kev had the most liked content!

2 Followers

Profile Information

  • Location
    PA
  • Gender
    Male

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0
  • Website URL
    http://

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    17202
  • Model
    Other
  • Type
    Other
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

Recent Profile Visitors

14820 profile views

kev's Achievements

Proficient

Proficient (10/14)

  • Helpful Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare

Recent Badges

9.1k

Reputation

  1. Looks like it was a great show! Congrats for getting in! Car looks great...I miss having a white one. Dad is now selling the mitubishi emblems for the front btw. I'm not sure he has the smaller one next to the rear Mitsu label though (I see you don't have it)...but they are usually easier to find because they were on most 80s mitsubishis.
  2. Also, the switch on the clutch pedal is known to get brittle and brake. If it does, it thinks the clutch is engaged when it is not...which never allows the cruise to turn on.
  3. The sub-condenser is only on automatic cars...in particular only 88/89 automatic cars. Why....I haven't a clue. There was another post here recently asking if it could be eliminated. I'm curious about this myself, for mine is mashed up on one of my cars. Also, automatic cars had a different design secondary fan....again, not sure why. I've seen members eliminate the PS cooling line and replace it with a small cooler. I'd say that you would want to retain some sort of PS line cooler....just shortening the loop may not be sufficient...although, I don't have any first-hand experience to discount it. The loop still fits with a cx racing intercooler though.
  4. Yeah, I know. It's rained every weekend for the past couple months. I have only driven mine twice. Once just around the neighborhood after getting it out of winter hibernation and the second to Carlisle and back on Saturday. Got home just before it started pouring. Looks like another weekend of rain ahead of us too.
  5. Looks great! Natallica actually lives just 10 minutes from me. He doesn't own any starquests anymore though.
  6. Yes, the engine control harness has nothing to do with the cruise control. Just retain the factory vacuum lines that run from the bottom of the intake (obviously connected to the plenum of the new MPI intake) around the firewall, thru the two white check valves and to the cruise control module and factory vacuum pump up near the slop tank. There is a relay up in the right corner of the engine bay that is on the main harness. Ovbiously still need the sensor on the output shaft of the transmission too. Basically, keep all the wiring stock except the engine control harness....and you are good to go. the cruise control connect directly to the gas pedal.
  7. No, it didn't. I made it out there...only CQ there this year, but did meet several other CQ owners who weren't able to bring their cars.
  8. Just a word of caution. On my current driver CQ, I had excessive vibration after removing the balance shafts...enough that it destroyed the brand new crank bearings within 5000 miles! I ended up having to pull the engine and do another rebuild (well..this turned into an entire new block, for I found a crack in the original block during disassembly). I have pulled balance shafts on former CQs and did not have this issue...but this engine obviously wasn't balanced as well. I had to remove several grams from two of the rods. Pistons were similar but they were aftermarket replacements....never weighed the originals. Because I didn't balance the crank, I decided to stay conservative and retain the shafts (installed new balance shaft bearings). Thread containing some of the info about this experience:
  9. Here's mine...this is the CX racing intercooler but not too much different than the stock one. I would cut the factory piping off the stock intercooler and weld in 2.25" inlet/outlets. More of the detailed photos in this link: Intercooler Piping | Hot Rod Forum (hotrodders.com)
  10. Get it going tonight and come up to Carlisle Import in the morning!
  11. The rear spindles are known to have a ‘click’. There is a TSB on it. It’s not a clunk though and is usually noticeable when going from first to reverse or vise versa. You’ll hear a pretty distinct click as the spacer on the spindle moves and contacts the wheel bearing. It could also do this on light acceleration and deceleration. The TSB amended it by a different, shorter spacer plus two teflon coated washers that simply masked the ‘click’. Also, just relubricating the bearings, spindle and spacer helps. not sure if this is your problem or not but thought I’d throw it out there
  12. I’m curious about this as well. My sub-condenser is mangled from what appears to be a minor front collision sometime in the past. Kills me because I had a spare sub-condenser that was given to me by a local member but I tossed it years back when decluttering my garage in preparation for a move.
  13. I really like my borg warner airworks s257. Spools really quick and pulls hard. Been very reliable but it's on a car that I only drive occasionally. Watch out when it comes to some of those ebay exhaust manifolds. They are known to crack really quickly...as in within weeks. Might want to reach out to Motocam360 (Tim Ennis). I believe he is still working with Chad Samuel to sell his custom exhaust manifolds.
  14. Look for a shop in your area that restores fuel tanks.
×
×
  • Create New...