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  1. Just just check for rust everywhere. Passenger frame rail in particular. It looks solid, but rust is killer with these cars. I don't see any underneath pics.. All the wheel wells and rockers are prone. In my opinion anything mechanical can be fixed but you have to have a solid foundation to start with.
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  2. Welcome back old man. Good to see you here again. Thanks for coming back to help
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  3. If you know what you're looking for, you can also find old topics with (don't laugh) Bing, and load the cached version. Google has cached versions of pages too, but I've found that Bing is better at it for some reason. The text is all there, and the images will show too if they were hosted somewhere other than SQC. I was able to recover my FAQ threads this way, and I'll repost them at some point.
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  4. Just for fun here's another picture of a tank
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  5. If your Aeromotive 13105 stops working properly. don"t go out and buy a new one at $220.00. Most likely it is a bad diaphram cost $36.53 shipped from aeromotiveinc.com. Hope this helps someone, Bill
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  6. Leave the stock Sensor in place, or replace it with a three wire. Go appox. 36 inches down from the turbo outlet and install a bung in the exhaust pipe on top of the pipe or at least at a 45 degree angle so as not to come in contact with condensation in the bottom of the exhaust pipe to install your AFR gauge sensor. This hook up shows you what the wideband AFR gauge is reading in real time without screwing with the ECU.
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  7. Those hardlines aren't that big of a deal. Sometimes they crud up with time anyways. Yes, just bypass them with rubber hose. For the vapor tank; it doesn't have to be that sophisticated, it just needs something to hold it to in order to keep it from moving around. If it was a rebuilt tank that hasn't had any fuel in it yet, I would be just tacking in some steel to make new brackets. If you don't have a welder, or don't want to do that, you could try some JBweld if you have a large enough clamp to get around the tank to press it in position until it cures. The brackets are nothing more than just bent pieces of sheet metal. If memory serves me correctly, there is only one screw in the one bracket. The other two just sandwich the plastic. Could also just band it to the tank from the tank lips. Something like a cinch strap may work
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  8. Good idea, will do. I actually have a bunch of Toyota FIPG stashed away from my previous occupation.
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  9. Clean them up and use a dab of black RTV if you're worried. Should be good to go. I made my own for the pickup when I tore it upon disassembly.
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  11. Best ones I have of a tank in stock condition (minus an aftermarket stock replacement pump)
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  12. I guess I'm at the final stage of grief when it comes to the loss of information due to the data center issue of this site. Acceptance that is. I know I've been through the Denial, Anger, and Bargaining phases haha. I don't think Depression is applicable, for it is just a car site. But anyways, I have started to fix the links to my threads in the FAQ section..yet again. If you remember, the hosting site for my photos was revamped last year and it broke all of my photo links. I had to manually update each link address in every one of my posts to fix the issue. Well due to the data center issue here, it reverted all of these back. I was sitting tight to see if the administrators would have any success with a later backup but I haven't heard anything. So, I started the re-link process again. The good news is that most of my threads are still here, for they were created prior to 2015 (with the exception of most of my restoration thread on my blue conquest and all of my black conquest restoration thread...arghhhh). Also, I'm able to paste a larger photo in the threads now due to the new site instead of the thumbnail links that I did last year. This will help and add clarity. So, I'll be slowly fixing these all up again. Here is the list of threads I'll be touching and what my status is: Suspension, Steering, Brakes FAQ: How to Rebuild a Steering Box (with spool supplement) <-- COMPLETE 11/9/21 How to Rebuild the Steering Column (need to add ignition switch rebuild, for it was lost) <-- COMPLETE 11/9/21 Rear Brake Caliper Assembly <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Transmission, Clutch, and Drivetrain FAQ: How to Rebuild our Differential and Torque Tube <-- COMPLETE 11/9/21 How to Rebuild an 88/89 Manual Transmission (including short shifter installation, for it was lost) <-- COMPLETE WITH EXCEPTION TO THE SHORT SHIFTER INSTALLATION 11/19/21 88/89 KM1432 Transmission Bearing P/N's and info <-- COMPLETE 11/19/21 How to Do a Zero Play Clutch Pedal (my posts in JohnnyWadd's thread) <-- COMPLETE 11/9/21 6 Bolt CV Axle Boots (my posts in CaliConquestAlex' thread) <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Body-Interior/Exterior FAQ: Restoration of our Rear Tail-Lights <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Sound Deadening Installation <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Door Popper Installation <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Heat and A/C FAQ: How to Rebuild the Heater Box and Blower Motor Assemblies <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Cams Forum: 3.0L Roller Rocker Arms <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21 Roller Camshaft Discussion - Data Collection (this thread was in process when the site was restored and all the newer posts are gone) <-- COMPLETE 11/10/21, did the best I could to summarize the lost info...but it has been too long for me to remember everything Let me know if I missed any. I will say that the transmission ones will be last to fix, for they are the longest. Actually, I'm going to be embarking on another KM132 rebuild soon and plan on taking new photos of the disassembly to fix the thread due to an inadvertent deletion of the original photos on my hard drive years ago. On a side note, I've been requesting that anyone fill in the gap and shoot me over their photos so I could update the thread. You would think in seven years, someone would have come through on this request...wishful thinking. Ok, rant over. If all things go as planned, I may be putting together a detailed automatic to manual transmission swap thread...but I don't want to get ahead of myself on that one just yet. Kevin
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  13. All photo links repaired in this thread, let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.
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  14. Hmm, staring at my photos a bit more.... Here is the photo of the engine before installation. The white mark on the flexplate is on the top. Now here is a photo of the engine compartment immediately before we put the engine in. The white mark on the converter is on the bottom That tells me that I installed it originally 180 degrees out and, with what I did the past weekend, I should have it clocked correctly now. But, I'm known to beat a dead horse, and WILL be confirming this.
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  15. That's like asking a bunch of drug addicts and dealers if you should continue to use meth If you got the space, money, and energy to make sure it doesn't sit around and rot away, go for it bro. 4k for a running driving flatty seems reasonable to me, but I'm pretty new to the SQ game. At the very least, try to be someone else's enabler and convince them to buy it.
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  16. Ryddler is working on a static snapshot from June 2021. Once that is complete we should be able to find the topic on Cams and copy it manually back to the forums. Jimmy
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  17. Ok guys, here it is, the be-all...end-all vacuum line removal thread, enjoy The list of ports (22 in all) 1. Vacuum Retard Diaphram (directly on top of the distributor) 2. Top Port on the TB, right where the OVCP meets the TB 3. Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (black box on the drivers side of the VC) 4. Thermo Valve (2 ports) 5. EGR (3 ports) 6. SACA Solenoids (5 ports) 7. Main Vacuum source (3 ports) 8. Bottom port, this feeds the vac storage, cruise, and runs to the vac pump in front 9. Vacuum Storage (not pictured), mounted to the side of the shock tower 10. Cruise Control (not pictured), mounted to the front of the shock tower 11. Vacuum pump (not pictured), mounted right beside the drivers headlight 12. Purge Control Valve (2 ports), directly under the aircan Now, depending on what you're wanting to do with your car, your position on the environment, and whether or not you need a smog test to get a state inspection, it's possible to remove some of the vacuum lines and clean up the engine bay a LOT. For a pure race car you'd probably just need 1 stock line (slightly relocated), that'd be a line running from the top of the TB (labeled #2), to the Vacuum Retard Diaphram (labeled #1), this is the only line that is an absolute necessity. However, if you want, for example, your inside head & foot vents to work properly, you'll need to keep the line running from the bottom of the TB (labeled #8 ) going to the Vacuum Storage canister (labeled #9) (+ the single, small vacuum line running from it's nearest "T" into the firewall [not pictured or labeled]). Since this comes up frequently I'll address it here, the vac port you use for a BOV is labeled Main Vacuum Source (#7), you'll use the one closest to the firewall if you're looking at it from the drivers side fender. If you need a smog test to pass a state inspection you'll probably need to keep everything, each vacuum assisted item has its place. If you've removed the catalytic converters you won't be needing the Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (labeled #3), it supplies fresh air to the catalysts. ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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