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  1. But it is worth every penny! Then you know for sure what is going on with your air fuel mixture.
    2 points
  2. that's president brandon to you.
    2 points
  3. *EDIT* Original purchaser cannot justify getting them shipped out so they are for sale again. White car has a title, black car does not. Throwing this up here for interest. Pulled this out from the back forty. 88 quest all original with a seized engine and manual trans. Never drove it, never even rode in it. Just got it because it was going to the scrapper. I want to offer it up to this community because it is a pretty straight original car. The wheels are 7&8s that were painted for some reason. https://imgur.com/a/Gp7uyMZ I'd like to get a fair price for it, starting at $2000. If you take it for asking you get a WHOLE black parts car with no title to go with it! Huntsville Alabama
    1 point
  4. So ever since the ISC swap it never has done the cut out problem. I have about 1100 miles on it now since I got it running at the first of the year. If I didn't have a company truck it would be my daily driver.
    1 point
  5. Figure I'd post an update on this. I'm still working on the car. Had to travel for business for a few weeks and spent this past Saturday at Carlisle Import Nationals with the blue car, but I'm still picking away at the black one. Those of you who know me, know that I love making tools! I use to do it for a living, well still kind of do but more on a managerial front now. Love making simple contraptions with stuff I have laying around the garage. Anywyas, I made this wrist pin press out of some old scrap bar stock and a 4T bottle jack. It worked slick! Next, I made a homemade connecting rod balancer jig. Nothing but some wood, a few L brackets, spare hardware, and a skateboard wheel. Bought the scale from amazon for $13. Surprisingly, it was very repeatable! The skateboard wheel was the trick. I tried a few things prior that didn't work too well. It's just a bushing on the other side. Would have been better if it was a ball bearing but I didn't have any small enough. I went down this rabbit hole because I was experiencing vibration on this car with the BSE. Found out the stock rods differed by up to 5 grams! And that wasn't just this particular engine, for I weighed the ones out of the donor engine is well. The pistons also differed by up to 4 grams! In the end, I balanced both the rods and pistons to within .1-.2g. Last, I made up a jig to hold the piston to install the wrist pins. Just factory style piston (.020 over) and pressed pin. Heated up the rod with a MAP torch and slid the pin in. The red bolt was used as a stop so I could slide the pin in quickly before the rod cooled down without having to try to visually center it. I didn't have any flat plate, so I used an old flywheel from a Jeep. It also worked slick. Painted and cleaned block. I didn't snap anymore photos yet but the engine is currently pretty much assembled. Bottom end is together. All the measurements were spot on, plastigage good, etc. Head/manifolds are on and torqued. Did a leak-down test to verify no leaks into the coolant or pass the valves. Then installed the cam and rockers but called it quits last night because it was late. Just need to install the timing stuff and cover/oil pan/etc. It should be ready to go back in the car in under 2 more hours of work. In parallel, got in the pedals for the 5 speed swap, master cylinder, and clutch line. Still need to do the access port for the 5 speed shifter. I'll do the trans mount last with the engine and trans in the car.
    1 point
  6. with the cups extended, I should be able to if I take it at the insane same angle as I did with my wrx
    1 point
  7. This past weekend was all about the rear diff. Needed a lot of time with the wire wheel. When I was moderately happy with it, I hit it with some primer. Then I brushed on some Gloss Smoke Grey. I used this on all my drivetrain parts on my Eclipse and it came out great and is holding up very well, so I figured I'd use it here again. Looks much better. I need to order axle seals. They appear to be in good shape and still supple. I didn't tear them removing the axles, but it will just be easier to replace them now.
    1 point
  8. I know this back from the tombs, but this intake flat out works, and well I might add.it’s been pushing a turbo most thought would laggy. Believe me it’s not .
    1 point
  9. The local machine shop kept bumping my job to the back of the list but they were finally able to knock it out last week! Got the block back on Friday. Boiled, magnafluxed, bored, and decked. Thankfully all of the rust cleared out with only a .020 overbore. So, theoretically, I should be well into this engine build....BUT, it was the first really nice spring weekend here. So, why work on this old hunk of junk: .....when I have this sitting next to it! Changed the oil, pumped up the tires, charged the battery, and installed a check valve in my fuel system (which I was meaning to do last year) and I was driving it within an hour. I'll start on the black car's engine build next weekend, haha.
    1 point
  10. I think it all has to do with some Brandon guy.
    1 point
  11. I do not. It does take an honest 24 hours for this stuff to dry though. The rate at which I complete projects it's not a problem. 🤣
    1 point
  12. Speed Star Racing Professor SP1 high disk in Super Black Coat 18x9 +19 front with 20mm spacer 18x10 +19 rear with 1.5 inch spacer Muteki Lug nuts in red http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Image23.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Image6.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Dsc_0009.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Image5.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Image7.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/Image17.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa264/jsinaga/side.jpg
    1 point
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