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Johnny Wadd has a post from 2013 in this section on how to do this, but like so many other threads, all the pics are missing, so here's my recreation of this process: You can remove the console latch with the center console still installed in the car. You do NOT have to remove it the whole console unless you want to for some reason. For this tutorial, this console was already removed. First, remove the flocked bin/cubby inside your console by prying up on it. It'll pop out. Next, remove the two hinge bolts that hold the lid. The lid will be removable at this point. Now remove the 4 larger screws you see. Under the map lid you will find 5 smaller screws. Remove all five. Remove the hard plastic piece and you'll have access to the latch. If it's broken, it may just fall out. Don't lose the spring. Wrap the coil spring around your new / or repaired console latch like so. Back in the lid there are two VERY small pin holes. Carefully feed the two posts on the coil spring into the console lid pin holes and snap the latch gently into place. It should look like this. Reverse the process and put the map holder back in with the 5 screws. If the spring is installed properly the latch will be "sprung" into a downward position. When latched, it'll sit in a downward position like so. The act of pulling up on it will unlatch it and allow you open the console lid. The plastic tab on the latch should catch on the plastic ledge cast into the console as shown. That's it. You've replaced, or repaired your center console latch. Reinstall the rest of the screws as necessary put your lid back on the console and enjoy your ride on step closer to perfection!3 points
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Finally got a batch of these printed up this week: The glossier 6 on the left are PETG. The more flat black 2 on the right are ABS. I was having some distortion issues with the ABS and had to throw a bunch of them out b/c I wasn't happy with the quality. I have another batch of 6 going in PETG as we speak. If anyone wants one, 15 shipped should do it (10+5 shipping). Shoot me a PM and I'll get one out to you. Things are kinda dead around here these days unfortunately, but if there's enough continual interest I'll put a formal F/S thread in the Bazaar and I can print them as needed.2 points
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Honestly I would if I had the time to! haha, but i'll double check spark for sure!1 point
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Said you checked spark, but didn't tell us how you did it. I use an in-line spark tester and it makes life SO much easier. No questions about spark then. Fuel definitely looks good. Seems like it revved fine at one point. Based on that I would mostly rule out mechanical failures and fuel pump. Doesn't even turn over now?? Throw it on a trailer and come on over. We will figure it out 😎1 point
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No Increased noise, I heard the injectors clicking when I used the screwdriver trick. But would it be worth taking them out and inspecting? The AFR that the previous owner has in the car shows the car as running Lean when it ran (Halmeter Af30), though i’m not sure how accurate it is. I don’t think i’m well versed enough to spot a leak, but when it ran I think the vacuum showed about 20 psi I’ll attach a vid. Definitely no check engine light but I will check the ECU if I can figure out how, haha. Sorry if it’s a bit difficult helping me out, but I really do appreciate it! Not a lot of mitsu experts in my area. For some reason it doesn’t turn over even when cold now so this is the closest I have to a video of it running. If I can find a vid of it idling i’ll upload that aswell Thanks!1 point
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Yes, you have good fuel pressure. Do you hear any increased noise of the fuel pump as it gets warmer? Typically, if the pump is the issue, It will be howling loud when it is hot. If not, I'd put aside fuel (but leave that gauge on there if you can). Injectors may be a culprit though but being that it does run when cold, I'm not sure I'd focus on them at the moment. Any air leaks in the intake system? The smallest of a leak can cause the car to die, especially after it comes up to temp...including vacuum leaks. You can cap off every vacuum port and try it...leaving it at idle (don't drive the car without at least the vac advance connected though, but idling is fine). Any codes on the ECU? In the video, it looks like there is a bunch of stuff added to your car over the years (turbo timer, etc.). Disconnect all of that as you work to diagnose your problem. I've learned to always start with what either I or a previous owner 'changed/altered' on the car.1 point
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When it goes to stall, can you keep it running at all...by goosing the throttle, etc? The coolant temperature sensor may be the issue. If you connect a 300 ohm resistor between the two poles of the connector, it will simulate a fully warm condition. Worth a try if you have a resistor handy (I miss radioshack).1 point
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if you have fuel and spark it should run.unless timing off, the spark jumping in cap,or mecanical failure.it is possible if the coolant sensor for ecu is faulty and reading like -40 degrees .1 point
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Definitely check for spark. Once you know for sure it's spark or fuel related then we can guide you further. When you first turn on the key do you hear the fuel pump kick on for a couple seconds?1 point
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Sounds electrical. Check for spark in the no start condition. Does it start to run rough before shutting off or is it just like someone turned off the key?1 point
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Hey Guys! I recently picked up a starion and happy to be apart of the family. More specifically a 1987 Starion ESI-R, 130k on the dash and 5mt. it’s in semi-rough shape so i’m super excited to get her back to her former glory! Excited to peek around the forums to get the help i’ll most definitely need1 point
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when vehicle stalls and will not start. check for fuel pressure,spark,and confirm coolant temperature with something beside the stock gauge.once you figure out what your losing you can go in that direction1 point
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I adjusted your ranking. You should be able to post in VM forum now. Jimmy1 point
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Nice find! Enjoy the journey…these are head turners and fun cars once you get things sorted out. If / when you need parts, see my website at www.StarquestParts.net which I update regularly. There are links to other reputable vendors on my home page as well. Welcome to the SQ Club!! -Steve1 point
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Welcome aboard! Looks like a pretty complete car from here. A little work and she will surely shine!1 point
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Good deal on those Bridgestone Potenza 245/45r16 https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=37322&width=245/&ratio=45&diameter=16&rearWidth=225/&rearRatio=50&rearDiameter=16&performance=ALL1 point
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Wow, he got that one in by the skin of his teeth. I wonder if he finally got replacements for those welders he says he lost during the move.1 point
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My cargo light wouldnt come on. The problem was that switch that techboy showed a pic of. I sprayed it with electronics contact cleaner while working the switch back and forth and now the light works, yay!1 point
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I think it may be more of people don't realize it's "a thing". I got Mikie "19cturbo" looking into it.1 point
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Shame, was really hoping this guy would turn it around. Guess I'll have to go local for my rack swap.1 point
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Looks like someone else got screwed and is mad https://www.ndd-motorsports.com/ I just filed papers in small claims court1 point