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Looks like it also has a HKS cat-back exhaust system on it which is not mentioned.

Thanks for posting. Don't have any interest in purchasing but I was using the detailed photos to look close at the gaps in the front end panels (note my recent collision repair post). It's very helpful to see what they were on what hopefully is an unmolested car. Japanese cars have good build quality but did notice some deltas. I saw the decals too, and it does look like there is a bit more orange peel in the paint than what was typically seen in an original car. Although there are scratches, etc. shown in the photos. If it were repainted, it was a while ago. Not sure, but the decals do raise the question. Was there such a thing as a 'later 86 CQ' which had the newer decals? I didn't see a photo of the door tag with the build date. Obviously, the wheels were refurbished given the black insets, but I like how they kept the polished lip around the center cap. For the 86s, I actually really like the black starions that had the red interior (not sure if they had that combo with the conquests?) I remember years back there was a post on here with an original owner selling his 86 starion in this color combo that had 15k original miles on it. The story was that his son, I believe, took it out for a joyride and sideswiped a parked car, damaging the one side of the car. He parked it in a barn for years, hoping to fix it, but offloaded it for like $1200. I wanted that one bad but it was snagged up by another member quick. I bet that thread still exists on here.

Thanks! By drilling out the spot welds and removing that piece of sheet metal shown in the photo above, the one that is bare steel, it allowed me to bend the rail easily. Also enabled me to reshape that piece of sheet metal on the anvil with a hammer/dolly. I did fabricate a brace for my homemade lever bar such that when I pried, it transferred the load right back on the area that was kinked. I forgot to snap a photo of this. A member is hooking me up with the marker light, just need to find the time to drive out to his place and pick it up! But hoping to work a bit more tomorrow on the gaps. Maybe get far enough to start working on the original bumper support. I'm getting anxious to do a full front-end mockup with all the parts to verify fit up before moving into paint prep. My original goal was to do this so well that you'd never know it was hit. But being that I didn't have replacement steel for the core support, etc., I'm not sure that will be fully possible. But I'll get it such that it passes the sniff test...as in, with the hood open, I want it good enough that you would really have to look in detail to see evidence of the impact. Wish me luck, haha

Dealer had it for sale Nov 2022. Sold it $23k Tjen it was posted for $24k on consignment I assume by the current seller. Exterior was painted OR newer decals added. That truly sucks in my opinion. First year widebody 1986 was the only year with the small TSi fender stickers and TSI badging on the rear. Now it has 87-89 decals on a 36k mile car. If I was buying a 36k mile car, it better be 100% original. That turns me off big time.

I was going to say, our cars don't have upper ball joints.

Never mind I am just dumb and didn't look at the manual

I'm still on the hunt for a passenger side marker light. I can't believe I don't have a spare of my own. I found three drivers side ones! I do want to try to find new oil cooler lines, for the hit kinked them a little bit. Worst case is that I make up my own braided lines. And the air can is a bit deformed, which I probably will be able to straighten but is very low priority at this point. Once I get the gaps finalized and everything welded solid, I'm going to attempt to restraighten the original steel bumper support. It is basically rust free and I really would like to see if it is salvageable (but it is bent pretty bad). As seen in the photos, my spare is a bit of a rust bucket. Also, can you believe that is the original hood that I haven't even touched! By carefully pulling the mangled body panels off, it sprung back. The passenger side corner is sitting a little high, but I believe I can correct it. I'm hoping to retain this thing. I have an available spare (would need to take 3 hour drive to pick it up tho) but it isn't black. With the cost of paint nowadays, I prefer not to paint the underside. I eventually want to put my spare 83 hood on this car, but not until after my kids are out of the house and no longer driving this thing. So rather put the effort into that one in the future.

nice to see interest in the cars.but he is correct parts are pricey and cheap ones are hard to find.starquestparts.net has some cars so check there to get a vibe on picing.i have seen $3000 ones out there but not running and not in great shape.good luck

My Conquest went through several stereo upgrades in the early 2000s, each hacking it up worse than the one before it. By the time 2025 rolled around, I had two amps (one under the passenger seat and one screwed in behind the back seat), a 12" subwoofer, aftermarket 6.5" speakers in the doors installed in cut out holes that were half screwed into the door cards and would fall out with a hard door slam and a single-DIN CD player. I stopped using the stereo because of mystery bursts of loud static that would randomly take over while playing music. I decided it was time to simplify everything. I pulled the amps, pulled all of the amp wiring from beneath the carpets and trunk and traced it all the way up to the battery and removed it. Initially I wanted to go back to the stock radio. After looking at options for connecting bluetooth through the old tape deck (plus the power output of a stock radio from the 1980's), I decided to go with a modern head unit. I ended up with a Sony XAV-AX4000 head unit (basically a big screen slab) and adding some new 6.5 in speakers to the doors (the old ones had lost their grills and been kicked to death over the years). I can't detail too much of the work involved because I went through CarToys, but I worked closely with the installer to pull out all trim I could ahead of time so he didn't have to stress about the pieces of the old car. I paid an extra $85 for them to rebuild my old hacked harness plugs and connecting an adapter plug rather than hardwiring the new system in. They also rebuilt my speaker holes with some plastic so the new speakers are securely mounted. Final result is a pretty non-obtrusive screen that syncs immediately with my phone, and a very easy unit to live with. For nostalgia, I took a picture of the old radio and set it as the background. The aftermarket speakers are really lacking in bass, and I might add a small subwoofer next year although I hate to go back to dragging on the charging system. Even though it's not period correct, I am very happy with the setup and thought I'd share. I thought it made the car much more pleasant to use on a regular basis and I have been daily driving it to work when the weather is decent. EDIT: I guess based on my posting count I don't have reply rights on this thread, so I'll answer the splash screen question here. There is no splash screen options that I am aware of and when I checked the manual I didn't see any options. It boots up very fast, so it pretty much goes to that home screen with the radio wallpaper, then connects to bluetooth followed by the Android Auto connection. In about 10 seconds it has maps and music pulled up on it and is playing whatever I was playing last on the phone. Thanks for the positive responses!

Welcome Aboard! I know Hellrazr well. He went TN to PA and 5 years back I went PA to TN. Nashville is about 3 hours off for me, but I'm local ish. As for parts, I don't have a lot of extra stuff. Good luck with the project! If/when you need some help let us know 😃

I suppose that makes sense. Thanks for the info!

Just dont know how to upload pictures. Its not the 90s anymore. Un-limit the size of pictures guys. been on there since before 2002, like my sig says. I was on here, on dial up. that is how I got my starion fix! Love this site and i want to keep the knowledge going. You cant do that with on 500k pictures come on!! I will help if needed. This site has to keep going!

Power automatic seatbelts were only on U.S. spec cars. It was part of the passive restraint rule if you didn't want to fit the vehicle with airbags at that time.

Did you happen to unplug the light controller on the left side of the glovebox? If this is unplugged, your headlights will go up and then not come down with the switch.

Finally purchased the remaining parts needed to install the Motocam MS3 engine management system. Rebuild the rear suspension two years ago. Plans are to have it on the road soon and mechanically sorted by fall. Then to tackle the horrible color change.

I use one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/23-gallon-manual-fluid-extractor-62643.html

Does it really matter if you have the wires backwards ? I am starting to wonder if this is my problem. What are symptoms of backwards wires?

Does it really matter if you have the wires backwards ? I am starting to wonder if this is my problem. What are symptoms of backwards wires?