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  1. Minimal vibration- UNLESS you are rebuilding and replaced a connecting rod, when I was offering rebuilt rod sets I would purchase 200 rod cores at a time, I found variances of up to 40 grams in weight. If you are running original rods you should be fine but if replacing one I suggest getting the set balanced. Dad
    2 points
  2. DIFFICULTY - Easy TOOLS NEEDED - Cable cutters (or knife), flat-head screwdriver MATERIALS - Coolant and/or distilled water This is an easy project, for even the beginner mechanic. I noticed a few weeks back I was getting a coolant drip after driving my car, I discovered it was heater core hose at the firewall, so I decided to replace both and take a pics along the way. First, I ordered two new heater core hoses from DAD (in and out hose). They arrived a few days later. Now we need to remove the existing hoses at the firewall. They are most likely installed with hose clamps, so loosen them up and remove both hoses. Note, you WILL lose coolant during the process. I did this out in the driveway on purpose so I didn't have coolant all over my garage floor. I discovered years ago quite by accident that a set of cable cutters are EXCELLENT for cutting small diameter hoses cleanly. If you don't have a set, go buy a pair - it'll be well worth it. If you were able to get your old hoses off without too much trouble, you should be able to use them as templates for your new hoses, as they will be a little bit longer than needed. I had to cut about about an inch off this one. And I had to cut about 1/2 inch off this one. Now your ready to reinstall. Don't go too crazy tightening down the hose clamps, the heater core fittings are cooper and can/will crush. Now top of your radiator with coolant. Take your car for a short drive and make sure it gets up to temperature. Bring it back home and check your work for leaks. Let the car cool down an hour or so, then open your rad and it top it off again. You should be good to go. Happy StarQuesting.
    2 points
  3. Below are a couple photos from the Old Town Festival of Speed in Alexandria, VA this past weekend. I've attended in the past as a spectator but submitted my Starion this year and it was accepted by the judging committee in the vintage Japanese category. There were 150+ cars this time, many were seriously impressive by any measure (a F40 showed up), and they were expecting 40,000 people to attend the event, so it was cool to be included. It was great to see how interested people of all ages were in the Starion, I must have talked to nearly 100 people throughout the day and saw countless people taking pictures. Many were old school Mitsubishi fans (one dude had a Galant VR-4 he's owned since new!), some remembered loving it as a kid, most had no clue what the car was and a lot of people were just into the 80's look. I was parked next to a midnight purple R32 GT-R and the Starion got significantly more attention. It was great to be able to share the car with so many enthusiasts and spread the Starion gospel.
    1 point
  4. Finally had a rain free weekend and hit up a local cruise with a group of my local friends.
    1 point
  5. I touch more info would be helpful. When you say it doesn't start - what does it do? Does it crank but not fire? ... or do you turn the key and just get nothing? Just a click. Is the car running rich or do you have a leaky injector? That can flood the TB out and make it really hard to start until it's been sitting a while and the fuel evaporates. I had this issue years ago with a Quest I owned. I'd drive somewhere and couldn't get to start again. Let it sit a few hours and it would fire right up. Finally figured out I had a leaking injector.
    1 point
  6. I've been meaning to get around to delete the A/C sub condenser but I haven't gotten around to it yet. Too many projects at one time. I have most of the parts to do it at the moment, just need to gather parts to make new lines. I've talked to guys that do A/C in semis and they don't understand why there would be a sub condenser, but of course they aren't engineers. I will be posting an update with how well it works and if I run into any issues (probably in the next 3 months or so).
    1 point
  7. Made it out to the garage tonight - you guys were right. Glad I asked. Turned out it was just REALLY dirty contacts. I picked up some of the recommended QD Electric spray. My contacts were BLACK. I forgot to take a beforehand pic, but they were pretty bad. Sprayed everything down and cleaned everything up. Used a Q-tip to put a dab of diaelectric grease on everyhing too. Tested it before I reinstalled and the window goes up and down so fast now - I guess the build-up was affecting continuity. I also decided now would be a good time to install these new decals I got from Natellica 10 years ago (for those that remember him). This was the current state of my switch. Much better.
    1 point
  8. I appreciate that, but right now, the words “ batch fire”, and “ wasted spark” are my go-to to keep the tune simple. I pulled the distributor, it appears that it does nothing other than “distribute” the spark like any other old school dist. Based on that, it will get omitted and the hole plugged. i do intend to run a crank trigger. No springs, no vacuum advance to mess with, and a much cleaner engine as far as wires go.
    1 point
  9. Well when you need parts I'm here. Dads Engine Parts. Dad
    1 point
  10. Like a few members here, I'm new to the Starion/Conquest, but not new to cars (former DSM'er, 1st and 2nd gen, and a Suby). I always had an eye on the Conquest Tsi and after 10+ years of being out of the car scene, I have finally made my way back in. I picked up a white 1988 Conquest Tsi from a former Starquest Club member in TN - blasted 80's music all the way back home. It's in decent shape considering that it has been sitting for quite awhile. Stock engine/turbo, but has some bolt-on's like an aftermarket air intake, IC piping, exhaust, and larger FMIC). The former owner also informed me of some "rare" items on the car including an '83 hood, as well as others that are still in the truckload of parts I got from him too. Cranks and runs enough to put it on the trailer and back off again, but will need some work to get it on the street (oil seeping aft of the motor, power steering badly whining and choppy, clutch pedal is almost wanting to stick to the floor, and there is what appears to be a sticking brake as it won't roll freely in neutral). My plan is to get it mechanically sound/tight and revamp the interior, then off to the body shop for some patching and paint. Looking forward to this project, and also being a part of this community! If anyone is in the Charlotte area, then come on by!
    1 point
  11. Hey there and welcome! I think all-in-all you paid a fair price for what you received, as it also has some under-hood goodies it appears from when I saw the listing. Yes, the rust was a concern but fixable if you have the appetite for it! Glad to hear you plan on getting it back to its glory days. I run the Starquestparts.net website, so feel free to give me a shout if you need any goodies…I’m just above you in Virginia. -Steve
    1 point
  12. I'm just uphill from you in the Hickory-Morganton area. My sister-in-law lives in Mooresville. Welcome to the StarQuest community. There are a number of businesses providing parts for these cars, though some things are really a challenge to find. I've got a project 1989 Fiji Blue Conquest that may be in slightly better condition than yours but we're going through the same process--get it running mechanically, work on the interior, and address some bodywork damage and paint. Seeing other people start essentially the same project as me helps me stay motivated to finish mine, so keep us updated on your progress!
    1 point
  13. Thanks everyone, and I appreciate the warm welcome! psu_Crash - I was hoping I'd find someone here who went and looked at the car as well! There is for sure going to be some time and money going into this one. I have been finding more and more items that need addressing (stuck right rear brake, a passenger-side rust hole on the frame (picture below), and I also figured the hood struts were the culprit with the binding. Oh yes, and the car is currently infested with ants). On the brightside, the pop-up lights actuate...so there's that! I'll take some time to inventory the spare parts, then start sourcing what I may need online (eBay and StarQuestParts seem to be well stocked). I may need to stem the rust issue before doing much else, so priority is to get it streetable, then get it over to a body shop. It certainly looks like a car that has passed through many inexperienced hands, shortcutting where possible, and disregarding the long-term consequences. Reminds me of me 20 years ago. For some reason I'm drawn to this car in particular, and intend to approach this restomod effort hopefully from a much more mature and patient standpoint. For sure hit me up, time permitting, the next time you're in Charlotte! And thanks again for sharing your observations on the details of the car from your visit.
    1 point
  14. Hello I’m Mike. ( I’m not an alcoholic). 20 years have passed since I was last here. At that time, I had a 1987 Conquest that I had completely converted to a twin turbocharged 700 hp 363 c.i. Ford motor/Powerglide drag car. In the cars previous iteration, it was a N/A 347/Tremec 3550 street driver. Before that, it was a dead engine’d stocker sitting under a Spruce tree with a pretty serious Hornets nest under the hood. A few years before that project, I had a 1987 Starion that also ended up as a ford engined drag car. In between Starquest ownership, the last car I had was a 1978 Ford Fairmont street driver. With a 617hp 2jz GTE/CD 009. When a complete JDM 2jz could be bought for 2700.00 Now, present day, I just bought a 1989 Buckskin Conquest off auction that I’ve had for about a week now. A declaration to the purists: My drag racing days are over. This car will not get hacked up and ford engine swapped. It’s a 72k mile fairly nice, mostly unmodified stock car. Save for squeezing it to make more power, I intend to leave the drivetrain alone. The Transmission shift linkage is worn out, the front seats have been in the Arizona sun too long, and the tires are flat spotted so bad the car drives like it’s on square tires. But other than those “ fixes”, it will make a nice driver. ill be asking for HP mod help, Suspension and braking upgrade advice, and what others have done to make the seat accommodate a 6’ driver. And put it all in a build thread. And desperately try to avoid putting any other engine in the car. Thanks for reading. ( I’m “ wordy”)
    1 point
  15. After spending about 30 minutes writing about the above two pictures, all of the written stuff just disappeared. In the grand scheme of things, it was probably too much blather anyway, so maybe a good thing? My purpose was to demonstrate that I’ve had these cars before, going back 20+ years. Both cars were destined to go to a JY, with the Blue one only needing a new engine, and the white one, was only a shell. Both had big inch ford small blocks, the blue one had a TT’d 363, and the white one, a dual stage nitrous’d 393. That was then…….2003-2007. In 2013, I bought another one of my favorites that started life as a “ shell”… And after about 10 years of modifications redo’s and improvement, became this: The irony here is that this is a Ford,…. Given my penchant for putting a ford motor in a non ford chassis, you’d think there’d be yet another boring Windsor small block under the hood. Uhhhh.. not this time. The mighty 2j albeit for a little deceitful badging on the front cover, this is by far my favorite engine. In the car and tuned, the combo made 617whp at 23 psi. I drove it hundreds of miles to coastal car cruise in events multiple times over the last several years, and had planned to take it on the hot rod power tour, but decided to sell it in 2022 instead. A real dumba** decision amongst my previous dumb --------------- decisions. And although there is another project car currently undergoing its transition in my garage as of this writing, from now on we’ll just focus on the other car in my garage. All that aside, the plans for this car have already started in motion. This car spent a couple of its first years in Ohio, and while the body is completely rust free, the wheels are kinda rough. So step one is to correct that economically. im gonna have them blasted and powder coated. ( thinking bronze). Kinda hard throwing away brand new rubber, so I’ll be keeping the stock stuff for now. The car is an auto, and I’m fine with that. After having a 2 Jz sing 23 psi songs to me followed by the big whoosh when the bov cracked open, the barely audible turbo spool leaves me wanting. I want some form of that again. i have a 220 lph Bosch style pump laying in a drawer, idk if that will work to upgrade the fuel delivery so advise me please if not. my plan is to buy stand alone fuel injector mounts that are threaded in, and use the factory intake. I’ll replace the tbi unit with an elbow and some standard TB to pass the air. I’ll use the new AMP’d efi micro squirt to control the engine, and put a 36-1 trigger wheel and a jy EDIS-4 to control ignition and batch fire and let edis do a wasted spark thingy. If the distributor is only controlling ignition and isn’t required to drive something else, I may consider pulling it and plugging the hole, I haven’t looked at that yet. i guess I have to replace the exhaust manifold to put some t3-t4 turbo on it. whatever modest power boost I can expect from that plan, w/o compromising durability or reliability will dictate that I guess. I do not intend to try and cram some v8 or 1jz in place as stated, I’m already kinda happy with the car as is. but I forget who’s I’m talking about sometimes,….I bore easily.
    1 point
  16. Site has been acting up for me too this week. Seems ok today though so far. Go ahead and ask all the questions you like. We are kinda bored around here these days 😁
    1 point
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