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  1. It's been 2 years since we closed our shop. Many people continued to ask me about parts so Diane and I started Dads Engine Parts LLC we went online today. link below. Dad Dads Engine Parts Llc.
    4 points
  2. I'm going to pull the trigger their subframe w/ rack kit, since they claim it comes with everything needed to convert and i have a 1500$ credit on my amex thanks to Revolution Brake not delivering on the bbk
    2 points
  3. If you saw the bicycle chain that runs the oil pump on these things you would not want to run 20W50. 20W50 is harder to pump especially when it is colder. I can't see a need unless your engine is just slap wore out and has no oil pressure.
    2 points
  4. 83-89 Starion / Conquest EGR Thermo Valve (new OEM) | eBay
    2 points
  5. couple options: 1. Could tap into the rear most vacuum port on the TB (the one closest to the firewall in the set of three). Although, I've had issues with getting enough volume to properly operate a BOV. 2. Could tap into the vacuum line going to the brake booster. Many delete their OEM rear ABS. If you replace the factory 'T' that used to go to the ABS with a normal T, it is the perfect spot for a BOV vacuum. I've also used the factory ABS 'T' but drilled out the check valve inside it on the abs wing. 3. There is a plug on the intake manifold on the runner to cylinder 4 (on manual cars). [It may actually be right in the middle of the Y for runners 3 & 4..I can't remember exactly. But if you can't find it, I can snap a photo of it on my car later on] This is a perfect spot to remove the plug and install a nipple for the BOV. If your car is an automatic, there is a nipple there already that goes to the trans. Just T that line. Basically, you need to get vacuum/boost from after the throttle plate. The only factory vacuum locations are what I described above. Kevin
    2 points
  6. Could always pop the tacs unit open and see if any caps need replacing or any damage to circuit
    1 point
  7. Yes, they are still available new. Coilover Conversion kit, 83-89 Dodge Conquest/Starion – Ground Control Suspension Systems (groundcontrolstore.com) Prices definitely went up but, if you buy new, you can select your spring weights. This is why I went with GC way back when. I didn't want anything overly stiff. I went with 350/250# for the front/rear with 7" front and 8" rear. I really like this combo. Only negative with GC is that the sleeves are still a bit oversized meaning I had to add the 'rubber bands', similar to the Cosmo ones, to take up the slop to keep them from making noise. No issues since the install though. BUT, if you are looking for a more common 'stiff' spring, there really isn't much of a difference between these and cosmos.
    1 point
  8. Most people have switched to 245/50/16 at this point. There's a little more selection, and they look okay to me.
    1 point
  9. There's slim pickings (4 vendors) and we be paying the Porsche tax.. https://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=08753&width=245/&ratio=45&diameter=16&rearWidth=255/&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17#0
    1 point
  10. Actually, you can use hydraulic shafts with mechanical rockers. Only the shaft area needs oil, so the extra hole to feed a hydraulic rocker doesn't hurt anything and actually provides more oil volume to the rocker. The extra holes are still covered by the mech rocker so there is no loss in oil pressure either. It's the other way around. You can't use a mechanical shaft on hydraulic rockers because there is no hole to feed oil to the hydraulic lifter. The shafts are the same diameter and everything is located in the same place.
    1 point
  11. swapping a 4g63 into my conquest and im looking to get rid of the stock engine. I have videos of it idling and revving with oil pressure if needed. it has the non-jet valve head on it. name a price. sold
    1 point
  12. I haven't seen anything specific about it in the FB groups I'm in, so I'm thinking the "group buy" is just those who purchase it from the site now. Unrelated to reply, here are some new pics they have of the modular steering rack bracket setup they are apparently offering now for the front subframe. They say it's to allow for swapping between racks without buying the whole subframe again. https://scontent-dfw5-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/326691813_1618550551951633_8373206597778901786_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=PY6eSZLdYZoAX8Gxtsy&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-2.xx&oh=00_AfDvsU_zU0IEWBTJFnbLa2EvtGuv09jqeynkaQRGd4rPZQ&oe=63D01100 https://scontent-dfw5-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/326455839_665930638603972_1724720354428363108_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=5cd70e&_nc_ohc=jnZJiGS86vkAX9F7-1U&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-2.xx&oh=00_AfAHzSo42yHc4eXQJYNTXE-qQPtXTJPq2EI_66vlg7upag&oe=63D033A0 For those who may be concerned, reportedly there are gussets for reinforcement where the rack brackets meet the subframe, these pics are for the mock up that was being worked on.
    1 point
  13. (scroll down for video) Well my build thread doesn’t exist anymore… I’ll just do a timeline If anyone remembers… May2009–bought car not running Nov2015–finally running rebuilt w/ 16G May2017–dyno’d 265whp w/ 16G MS2 ECU June2017–blew HG at drag strip July2017-July2020-rebuilt engine, went MPI, struggled with tuning..quit July2020–decided 1JZ/R154 swap Mar2022–took roller to TRA in Ohio Jan2023–car is complete and ready for pickup. Team Rocket Auto in Hamilton did the full engine swap for me. I took them the roller and all parts. Results: 617whp @ 26psi 750whp @ 35psi
    1 point
  14. Hi there... Last summer my dad gifted me his 1987 Starion ESI-R... He was the only owner before me.. He took really good care of this car.... really good care. Unfortunately he got this bug to modify some things..that now were not such a good idea. At one point the head gasket leaked so he replaced the gasket but wanted MORE POWER... so he put on a head with a racing cam... After that all kinds of problems.... Car would not idle correctly ect because computer does cannot be adjusted to cam. When I go the car it drove ok... with a little hitch when you gave it the juice....hesitation and then it would take off. He put hi output injectors in it too. It wont run well when cold.... He moved the temp sensor to the front of the car because it was running real lean.... that helped but has its own drawback. So recently the car runs like crap... When accelerating it sputters when turbo boost hits zero... like its not getting enough fuel... and just does not want to GO>..... I checked the Thermo Sensor... when. cold.... about 4 ohms... seems ok.... What is the best way to trouble shoot this car... There is this ECI Checker in the factory manual that I have but even though I found one online...I cannot find all the harnesses.. missing the MD998437 harness... There is some info about checking pin outs computer... It seems the only other option is to check individual components.... So... anyone who can assist me I would be ever so grateful..... Sorry no pictures yet.... I am a little shy.... and sorry for not introducing myself... I am not used to being part of forums ect... Eternally Grateful for any knowledge anyone can pass along to me or point me where to go... I did read the Newbie info to check... but not sure about Thank you.
    1 point
  15. I had battery drain with an 89. Removed the ETACS, cleaned the metal on the floor when it sat, cleaned the contact points where the connector plugged in, and the battery drain stopped. Jimmy
    1 point
  16. I know I'm going to get slammed for this but consider a K Series swap. 4 cylinder and a company makes a RWD kit that can be paired with a Mazda Miata or BMW transmission.
    1 point
  17. Been a long time since I saw one of those with both ports attached
    1 point
  18. That’s Tyrell Morris on Facebook…
    1 point
  19. I've got a pic under My Install. I chose to put gauges there instead of any electronics. The climate control will fit into a single DIN cage, with the brackets removed. The only bad thing that I've heard about an electronic device in that spot is a problem with heat build-up from the sun on the dash. If you put a display there, you might want to insulate the dash.
    1 point
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