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techboy last won the day on June 28

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About techboy

  • Birthday 10/16/1977

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    Cars .... duh!
  • Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
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  • Factory Color
    Polar White
  • Interior Color
    Dark Red
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. Is that front clip same car that my car has the rear quarter from?
  2. Lol ... I sense sarcasm. Dropping those tanks full sucks. Mine was about 1/2 and I spilled a bunch. It cleaned the concrete real well though. Not a good time economically to be spilling Premium.
  3. Once again I left you guys hanging. I got the car back together and then went on a 3-day camping trip with my daughter. So here's what happened on Tuesday before I left ... I changed the oil, put the rear wheels and lowered it to the ground. I started to back out of the garage and I could tell already I had a dragging rear brake. I decided to take it for a drive anyway b/c I thought it might pop loose, but it did not. By the time I got a few miles down the road the passenger side rear was smoking. So I had to turn around and head home. I ordered a seal kit from Rockauto, but I knew it was gonna take a few days to arrive and I was going away anyway, so back in the garage it went. While I'm waiting on those seal kits ... here's a before and after of the subframe work:
  4. I'm just trying to get my car back together and back on the road for the first time in 7 months.
  5. Sorry to leave you guys hanging. I did finish the car up last Thursday, but then I went away for 4 days on a mini-vaca and I just got back yesterday, so I haven't had a chance to update this till now. With the subframe already installed under the car all I had to do to finish the rebuild was attach the hub assemblies with the new LCA bolts I got from Mookeeh. I started with the drivers side. First thing I did was apply anti-seize to the LCA. I don't ever want to have to take this apart again, but if I have to .... Picked the hub up and slid the LCA bolt through. Next I slide the little 12mm bolt into place that keeps the LCA from rotating into the hole you see in the center of the pic. Then I rotated the hub back into place, reattached the axles with the 6 bolts and then tightened the LCA bolt down to torque spec. Double check the FSM, but I believe I used 85 ft.lbs. First one on and done. Next I switched over to the passenger side and repeated the process. Took me a couple hours in the morning to do all this. After that, it was just a matter of finishing everything up that pretty much took me the rest of the day. I didn't take any pics b/c its more common stuff that's been covered in other topics/places, but here's a list of what I had to do: Fill the rear diff with gear oil (now that the axles were in) attach and reinstall the struts attach e-brake cables to LCA and to rear brakes. slide rotors back on reinstall rear brakes bolt-up the driveshaft re-hang the C-pipe and muffler plug fuel-pump harness back in reinstall all the carpet and panel pieces in the trunk. I ran out of time to actually put the wheels on the car, start it up and evaluate. That will be tomorrow ... fingers crossed.
  6. The local shop down the street finally called and said they had my spindles, so today I was able to get both hubs back together. Here they are with the new bearings. Here's my reassembly process step by step. First I added some more grease to the bearing and the spindle shaft. Then I slid the spacer on. Next I gooped a bunch more fresh grease inside the hub. Flip the hub up and tap into the spindle with a plastic hammer. Now you want to tap the dust shield back into place and some grease to the spindle splines. I added a touch of grease to the splines on the back side of the hub as well. Next, take the piece and use your plastic hammer again to tap this piece on. It should seat pretty far down with the threads exposed. Place the washer and nut back onto the spindle assembly and tighten down. I forget the spec off hand, but it's pretty high. It's a 30mm (as you can see on my impact gun) And then, last but not least, don't do what I did and realize that you built the entire hub assembly and then take it all back apart b/c you forgot the dust shield. NOTE: The dust shield is flipped, which I also realized, so I had to take it off and flip over. If you install it backwards you'll have problems with the rotor rubbing on it. Tomorrow I should be able to finish the entire car and get it on the ground for the first time in months!!
  7. Here's one more shot of how the underside came out before I start putting this back together. The only difference between this shot and the one above, is you'll notice I did decide in the end to take another 2 hours and redo the wheel wells as well. Glad I took the extra time. Time to put the gas tank back in. Pretty easy, only took about 15-20 minutes to get that all back into place. Next I got the filler-tube back in and I put the plastic splash shield back on in the rear wheel. I still don't have the spindles back from the machine shop, but I I'm going to put the subframe back under as is. It'll be a little bit lighter and it shouldn't be too hard to put the hub assembly on under the car. Here's another shot more overhead. Came out so pretty it's a shame to put it under the car. I was working by myself, so I used a combination of a dolly, my jack, and three 2x4's. I'm not gonna lie, it took me and hour or more to get this thing situated and bolted into place. A lot of trial and error until everything lined up just right and would slide onto the mounts. The more level you can make going back up under the car the easier it is. I finally got it though, here it is back in place: Oh, and lastly, I picked up my rear brake dust shields. They were finished. The look fantastic.c.
  8. Yes, I use a wire cup wheel. I've tried other things over the years but I've settled on this method being the best for me. I use a combo of a 3 inch cup, a smaller 1.5 inch and then I usually do a final clean-up with a nylon one - which works surprisingly well. For the undercoating I've used POR-15 in the past, but I've found if the surface isn't perfectly prepped it won't adhere well over the long haul. I've used the Rustoleum Undercoat on 2 cars now and I'm very impressed so far. Rustoleum Rust Reform Link I use the brush on, not the spray. I 2nd coated it then with regular oil-base Rustoleum Satin black. Same can I used to paint the parts in this thread. I had it supported most if the winter, but it slipped off the support a few weeks.ago when I was doing something and didn't think much of it. Thanks for the heads up Tux. I assume you mean the dust cup coming off the trans.
  9. Now that everything is ground down, it's time to start applying the undercoating. My first shot, about 15 minutes in: Here's a shot 1/2 way done. I thought it would be fun to literally do just a 1/2 and take a pic. And here's the whole first coat completely done. Time to get the gas tank and the refreshed subframe back in ....
  10. Thanks Tex. It's getting there.
  11. Only 3 pictures today. I spent 3-4 hours yesterday grinding out the underside of the car. I only did from the rear-wheels to the rear bumper. IF, I ever finish the job and do the the firewall back to the wheel wells it'll be on a lift. I've done this once before on another car I restored on my back and it was the worst job ever. It was still the worst job ever. Even with safety glasses, ear plugs and a mask it still gets everywhere. My skin was black and shower didn't even fully remove all the grime. 1000% a labor of love and nothing else. Pic #1 - What I started with: Pic #2 - About 1/2 way done: Pic #3 - Finished best I could: You'll notice I didn't do the wheel wells. I had refinished them in a 3M undercoat when I restored the car and it has held up pretty well. It's a bit dirty from driving, so I might hit up Autozone and give them a fresh coat before I put the car back together. We'll see. This is the floor about 20 minutes in .... Tomorrow some fresh undercoating and it'll look brand new.
  12. Not a fun project. Ton of work, but I guess it'll be worth it in the end.
  13. Today the first thing I did was remove the subframe bolt brackets that are under the car and removed the old rubber bushing there. Pictured below are the new poly bushings that replace them. I used some silicone to kinda "glue" them in place. Here they are in place with the old bushing shown below. Now ... what I did next is going seem like I'm going the wrong way, but there's a method to my madness .... I removed the gas tank. You're wondering why?? I'm probably never gonna have the entire subframe out again in my lifetime, so this is my only opportunity to grind out the underside of the car and rust proof it. All I have to do is remove the gas tank and I'll have access to everything in the back half of the car. So, out it comes. I gotta be honest, with the rear subframe gone, it took me about 15 minutes to get this on the ground. Disconnected the feed, return, and evap line, disconnected the wiring harness in the trunk and loosened the fuel filler neck clamp. After that I just l spun off the nuts and down it came. To be fair, it's only been up there since 2016, so it hasn't had a chance to get rusty and nasty. The flare nut fitting on the feed line is so ridiculously easy to get to with no subframe. Here's a pic of the underside of the car with literally nothing in it.
  14. That was pretty much my entire morning, so after a lunch break, I could finally get to putting the subframe back together. Finally. Going the right direction. First thing I did was lay everything out so I could kinda remember how it all went back togehter. I don't know if there is a specific order you should assemble this thing in, but I'll show you how I did it. I started by attaching the control arms to cross member. I don't know if you any of you guys have ever used anti-seize paste, but whenever I do a job like this I always coat the bolts in anti-seize and let me tell you, if you ever have to take anything apart again you'll be glad you did. You can see the silvery paste on these long control arm through bolts. Torqued to spec, think it was around 100 ft. lbs or something like that. Here's both sides. Next I attached the sway bar and the exhaust hanger bracket. Then I put the diff mounts back in place and ran the toe in/out bolts back in. Starting to look like a subframe already. Bolted the torque tube back on. Half the reason I dropped the subframe was to inspect the condition of the TT since we know these are problematic, so I wanted to make sure I greased mine good when putting it all back together. Last thing I did today was mount the diff back up. This is where I left off today. I'm hoping the shop calls tomorrow to tell me the spindles are ready for pickup and I'm also hoping the coater calls and says the dust shields are done so can them too. If not, I might have to wait till Thursday to get the axles and hubs back in place.
  15. Another thing I didn't realize when I was burning out all the bushings/sleeves was you also need the ones for the torque tube mounts. So I had to quick a break and bust these 4 out of the rubber they are encased in. Between a new razor blade and some twisting in the vise they popped out pretty quick. I had to spend some time cleaning these up on the wire wheel to get all the rubber tidbits off, but here there are inserted into their new poly home.
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