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Mike7447

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Mike7447 last won the day on April 30

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About Mike7447

  • Birthday November 21

Profile Information

  • Location
    Irondale Al
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    35210
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1989
  • Transmission Type
    Auto
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. So I buy the head and I thought the listing was worth sharing. *As per their description: “YES EVERYTHING IS NEW THE HEAD CASTING, CAM, THE VALVES, THE SPRINGS, THE RETAINERS , THE ROCKER SHAFTS , THE ROCKERS AND LIFTERS EVERYTHING..... THIS IS THE Mechanical VERSION. WE ONLY SELL THE NON JET VALVE VERSION CYLINDER HEAD WHICH FITS STARION CONQUEST MONTERO RAIDER D50/RAM OR MAZDA 2600. THIS IS NOT THE chrysler factory HEAD. THIS HEAD IS MADE OF A FAR BETTER ALLOY, HAS EXTRA COOLING PASSAGES, AND IS THICKER AND STRONGER IN ALL THE CRITICAL AREAS. FITS YEARS 1981 TO 1986.” When was it ever a Chrysler factory head?🤪 They claimed to have several in stock, and are located one day ship time from me, But when I get the purchase confirmation, ship time is guesstimated to be 2-3 weeks. I write the guy: ”Good afternoon. I purchased this head from you yesterday. Looking over the shipping turn times, you are stating that the head will take 2 to 3 weeks to deliver, but the ad listing states that several are in stock. Wondering as to why the delay. Secondly the head is listed as being model correct for the Starion. Are the exhaust valves the correct valves w/regard to their heat tolerance rating? Thanks. I appreciate you.” Mike He replies quickly: New message from: odessa*cylinderhead (15,687) SHIPPING TONIGHT But……what about question#2….? I ask him again about the valves in another email. To which he replies; BRAND NEW HEAVY DUTY. what the hell does that mean other than they are brand new? Does heavy duty mean it’s the right valve for the turbocharged version of this engine? These guys are supposed to be a cylinder head shop only. You’d think I’d get a more intelligent answer than brand new, heavy duty.
  2. Thanks Dad. ( Kinda weird referring to you as Dad when you’re younger than me.🤔). Nonetheless, I have those pistons and a bunch of other stuff in a cart waiting on the machine shop. Should know something today.
  3. Thanks everyone. My pump shows no visible wear on the initial inspection. I’ll clean it up and get my magnifying headset on and look closer when everything is clean.
  4. Uhhhh.. I’m way passed that. The entire engine is pulled, apart, and at the machine shop waiting on their diagnosis of a suspect cylinder. The “old” head is now waiting on the new non-jet head that will be here tomorrow. When that gets here, I’ll take it to the shop and have those inserts installed, and ck or replace the exhaust valves if they are not properly heat treated to withstand the heat of a turbo application. My fairly radical DIY conversion of the factory intake to MPI/bigger throttle body is just about done. And both fenders are close to done, or done, with one actually on, and the one that hit the ground ready for paint now that the paint has finally arrived.
  5. I was planning on replacing the oil pump in this engine, but after hitting all of the additional bumps in the road, justifying a 330.00 oil pump as “ may as well go ahead and replace it” seems a little steep for me. is there a way to determine the health of these things? You can see wear on cheap < 100.00 domestic oil pumps, and when below 100.00, it’s just a no brainer to go ahead and buy a new one. But oil pumps in this engine aren’t <100.00. They are more like > 300.00. And I don’t see no stinkin’ wear in this pump. I don’t feel like throwing away a good pump just because. Can somebody contribute?
  6. Are you saying that you have a set of .020 in stock? Pm me with your price. If the block will clean up at .020, and depending on if I can afford them, I’ll take them.
  7. Thank you for your reply sir, I appreciate your input. I purchased that head because after hours of searching, and changing my search phrasing, that head was the only one of two heads that came up as fitting a Starion. The other was a bare casting at 630.00. In truth I wasn’t expecting to have to replace the head, neither was I expecting to have to pull the entire engine apart, but here I am. If I just assume that the valves aren’t properly heat treated or hardened, I assume I can buy the right valves from you. Is there a way to know/tell if the ex valve is inadequate?
  8. I know. I know this is a “been there done that” topic for some of you guys that have been here since the dawn of this web site. But from an outsiders perspective, try to find useful information regarding the options available versus the intended usage of the engine, versus what others are actually experiencing in the real world. For instance, a 2jz has cast pistons. It is routinely stated that these engines will tolerate 600-700 hp tunes w/o even cracking a 60k mile engine open. I had one. Although I did completely open the engine over block deck surface concerns, it got put back together using the same stock internals that came out of it. it made 617hp/597tq at 23 psi. I don’t need, or want that kinda power in this project. I consider 620 hp in a non traction controlled street car “bragging rights”. Thd only thing that made this car safe on the street was a set of 315 drag radials. So I gotta consider the new bottom line with the current engine in the CQ. Let’s say I target 300whp with an auto. You can buy stock crap cast pistons with rings at around 125.00. They are immediately available and can be here w/i a week of order. Silvolite makes a Hypereutectec piston for about double that. Equally quick turn time at about double the price. Potentially stronger than the cast piston due to the higher silicon content in the aluminum, but still a potential weak link if you don’t get the tune right. Arias and Wiseco are the only forged piston mfgs out there building a piston for the engine. Only for about 8 times the cost of the stock piston, w/a 6-8 week turn time on an order placed today. These pistons are 2618 alloy, typically noisy, w/looser cylinder wall clearances, due to thermal expansion, but ultimately the most forgiving alloy when pushing the tube into higher power goals due to the properties of that alloy. Where are the cut lines then? Who’s running what power on the stock cast piston. Who if any has any experience with what appears to be the only hyper-e piston out there, and at what power level do I need to justify spending 800.00 plus rings on a true forged piston? * And nobody even makes a 4032 piston for these engines I’ve found.
  9. Thanks for the advice. Give me enough free time however, and I will find something. https://www.ebay.com/itm/172713006008 Now,… do I start another thread about pistons, or can I just keep on going here?
  10. we’ll see soon enough Kev. Weirdly enough, after pushing out the piston and wiping the cylinder down, the “crack” seemed to disappear, leaving more of what looked like a path that water took past the rings. It’s obvious that water sat at the top of that cylinder, and the engine laid over a little almost like this was sitting/laying around somewhere. and like you said elsewhere, the head configuration doesn’t jive with what it should be if it’s an 89 engine. Isn’t there any model year specific casting numbers on these engines and heads to denote that?
  11. The head is complete. I won’t have to use anything from my existing head. The oil in my engine came out as sludge/tar and the resulting visible wear to the mating surfaces on the cam/rockers is obvious. If the exhaust valve in the current head is different than this head, I’ll either use mine in that head, or buy the stainless valves that are listed on Dads website, and upgrade. Mitsu isn’t making these heads anymore, so bare castings are sourced from other parts not of Japan, unless someone can correct me, even Dad has to be getting his castings from a Chinese foundry.
  12. https://www.ebay.com/itm/195634609121?itmmeta=01HZZNNNVQATJSTDJ7G63HSCVF&hash=item2d8cbb3be1:g:zCsAAOSwdNxkAanu&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4DEkhSWi4U0gG2uljqI8fqMw6BP5U4yLkrQrdoIOVxq7fYAlSBkK7IYNRgIWqggNDOZkE1lUpu6xXbHohTvs5cjfvqzKvJ6m%2BwoUne9%2Fo5Gv7RIxpR8hPBQj2bOoJXuQx2Pp5zPxaoQ4825d7QbwU0omhxcty01C5j8L1Wa6hp7lc2v8RM0DQOcMOB1OvAZ%2Foet1%2BbxLVKTEyxdfliak5UocI%2BKHWsZCw2mD1cnlqskdHs2Lk1O%2BQxlGeQ5%2FrVYJWvEns7JYghiAhIhy6%2Fqd7lSFDa17%2BSKsZiYnzm3XG8%2Fh|tkp%3ABFBM-t3W9f9j
  13. I’m looking on EBay for a new head. There’s a complete head listed there( several of the same from different vendors) as a g54b sohc head for a 2.6 for around 500 bucks. When I click on the “ see if this fits your vehicle” it says it does not. What’s different about this head?
  14. I don’t know why but I am starting to be “that guy” lately. I usually buy worn out junk, with the full intent to completely redo everything. That way, when I find some f’d up junk, it’s no big deal, cause I’m gonna replace it anyway. The last two cars however have been a different story altogether, I paid waaay too much for the 1980 Corvette project that’s currently stalled in my basement because I didn’t bother to ck what those cars typically brought at sale. I bought a giant piece of crap that needed everything,…. But this time I wasn’t planning on replacing everything. Stupid me. Such is the case for the Conquest. I bought this car sight unseen except for about 70 pics for probably what a lot here would consider premium dollar ( 13k) When I drove it the first day, I noticed it ran a little hot. I ck’d the radiator and it was waay low. I filled it with almost 3/4 gallon, and drove it the next day. The car ran way cooler. Actually ran very well, with no wierd idle or performance issues. I didn’t notice any smoke or smell antifreeze that you typically would smell if there was water getting into the exhaust, and when I pulled the old exhaust manifold off, nothing weird happened ( like antifreeze dumping out an exhaust port.) I ckd the oil. And while it was decidedly black and in need of a change, no typical chocolate milk mix could be seen on the dip stick. But today I pull the head, with the intent of getting it to a shop, and look at the cylinders… and this is what #2 looks like: Looks cracked to me, in multiple places. How can this be? The engine woulda smoked like a dog because water had to be able to come into the chamber. When I drained the oil only a little antifreeze came out, but I blamed that on the fact that I pulled the head before I drained the oil. I pulled the engine because one way or the other, this thing has to go to the machine shop The shop I use seems to be competent, and they did good work on the 2jz the last time. This time, I’m gonna have them sleeve that cylinder if it is cracked. the Aussie Engine before the 2j had all 6 cylinders sleeved, and it woulda been fine if the machine shop doing the work didn’t have monkeys working at the boring machine. 13 k for a car w/rusted out lower front fenders, sun baked leather seats, no Freon in the “ working” A/C. And now this. I definitely am “ That guy”.
  15. Well then,…. That settles that. The heads coming off, the jet valves are getting plugged, Hell who knows..the wife is out of town Sunday-Tuesday next week. The starters off, I can see the converter bolts, very little holding me back from just saying wt...., and just pulling the whole mess. Im committed to not find something lurking inside that’ll bite me. With That pic you sent me of your engine compartment as motivation to keep up with the Jones-es….( or the Kevs), I’m gonna see what I can do to bring my 72 k mi engine to zero.
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