Mike7447

I’ve since purchased a really hugh 40mm spacer for the rears to make up for the stupid deep Mustang backspacing. The 18x8 wheel for the S550 mustang has a 6.25” backspacing, and by my calculations, the factory rear 16x8 Starion wheel is 4.25. Says to me that I need to move that wheel center out 2” to keep everything happy.

It’s the one that’s been dangling since I removed the dash

It’s mounted in the surround hosing. It still hits that metal piece before I can even snap the thing in that hole.

how am I supposed to get this thing in there with the metal “ missing a screw bracket thingy” behind there. the steel thing in the background with the screw hole won’t allow the switch to fit in the dash. It hits well before even coming close. Can someone please explain why this is happening? What am I missing here?

sooner or later, it usually does. Problem is, on this particular project, seems there’s a lot more “ later”.

Which electrical schematic allows me to control f? I have been using an actual service manual for all of my schematics.

Well thanks for that… I decided to buy a used one from Steve Sutherland, as well as a few other clips and assorted doo-dads. In reality, I could give a rats red bunion hole if I’m not able to flash someone prior to passing them, but for 25 bucks used, I figure WTH…I prefer to actually have the completed circuit as opposed to a janky single wire jumper.

Well,…almost had an anurism trying to reinstall that dash, 3 times on/off before I could actually bolt it down…..and by the third time, I was ready to have a stroke. The first time was all too easy. The thing almost slid into place. *but the wires for the clock and daylight sensor were dangling, and impossible to fish into place. The second time was not so easy, but when I finally got it into place, I attempted to plug the wires in for the AC control panel after it was up there, and panicked because there are actually 3 female sockets on back of the panel, and there were only 2 male plugs available. I couldn’t find the other, and assumed that I had managed to somehow bury the other male plug behind something else, so off it came again. * There’s only two male plugs dedicated to the AC control panel, the other is for some kind of test port. The final time, ( after removing the AC panel from the front of the dash) I installed it, I did it w/o the steel braces at the bottom, (which makes it easier to install).. but trying to put those steel braces back in place with the dash up there left me cussing loudly and repeatedly. Turns out, my electric power steering motor mount did create an interference issue after all. Had I tried to install the dash with that brace in place, I would not be writing this right now. * I would have committed Seppuku with a Sawzall blade. The brace had to be cut to add the needed clearance to clear the steering motor mount bracket and the controller. It’s up there, but if I ever have to take it back off…. I’d hate to be me. The other side, which should’ve been a breeze considering there was no steering column to deal with, simply wouldn’t go in. I ended up cutting it in half, and making a reinforced backer that allowed me to bolt it in two sections. i love this car.

From what I’m seeing, the wiring for the ac compressor circuit is coming from there, as well as the water temp circuit which is tied into part of the activation protocols for the compressor, and the OD, and kick down relays ( at least that’s the way I see it.) I isolated that wire, and will ground it.

Well…. Im retired. This car is my “job”. Every morning, I go into the garage at 9am, and work on it relentlessly till the trend of the day at 5-6. Sometimes, I’ll take a lunch break, sometimes I’ll just work thru till the end…dragging my a-ss up the stairs at the end of the day wiped out. Some days I’ll hang my head, cause the car kicked my a-ss,….other days( like today), I’ll come up with a little smile. Knowing that it was my foot that did the a-ss kicking that day. Today was one in the “ Mike wins” column. The interior is wired. Everything that I can think of has been accounted for. Gauges, Audio, Boost, Afr….. I put the carpet back in. You probably cant see it from this pic, but there are no factory connectors going to the gauges. Weatherpack connectors are now there. You can see the electronic power steering motor and its controller under the column. If you’ll look to center, you’ll see the external crossovers for the component 5.25 speakers up front that’ll be under the head-unit. I also have component 6.5’s in the rear factory location. Kinda up in the air on whether I try and start it w/o the dash in place, or just put it all back together and pray.

I had a 347/tr3550 combo back in 2005 that I drove the hotrod powertour. The car was fine at speed and in light traffic, but stop-n-go was pure hell. I had a universal fit aluminum radiator mounted in front of the saddle, and whatever electric cooling fan that was available at the time sucking air thru it, (probably 16” diameter). I tried a diy shroud, but that didn’t seem to help much. today you can fab up some pretty strong dual 12’s that’ll pull a lot of cfm if you haven’t already, and even put a 14-16” pusher on the other side for traffic if you’re not already. That is how my current car is done, but I have yet to drive it to offer testimony as to how it works.

Just to make sure I’m not wasting anyone’s time here. * from my other post concerning the passing relay: I figured out my headlight issue. #1. I am an idiot. i had the male headlight harness plugged into the wrong female socket. unfortunately, I managed to kill the passing relay while trying to bypass junk. if all this thing does, is raise the headlight doors and allow me to flash someone I intend to pass, then I can forego using it. It appears a new one is about 100 bucks. i know I can jumper headlight function simply by combining the blue/red, and the blue/yellow wire that goes to this relay and get the 95% function that I need, and when I decide to cough up a hundred bucks, unplug that jumper,I just want to be sure that’s all it does.

I figured out my headlight issue. #1. I am an idiot. i had the male headlight harness plugged into the wrong female socket. unfortunately, I managed to kill the passing relay while trying to bypass junk. if all this thing does, is raise the headlight doors and allow me to flash someone I intend to pass, then I can forego using it. It appears a new one is about 100 bucks. i know I can jumper headlight function simply by combining the blue/red, and the blue/yellow wire that goes to this relay and get the 95% function that I need, and when I decide to cough up a hundred bucks, unplug that jumper,I just want to be sure that’s all it does.

What is a PMU? I’m currently using a MS3 pro mini to control the engine. * Edit, just googled it. Power management unit. why this instead of a complete rewire? I had a 1987 car that I spent 40 hours wiring on, but the car had a v8 that ran on its own ecu as well. I have all kinds of handwritten “notes” in the service manual where I was hacking into the wiring harness to make the headlights and power accessories work, but don’t remember if I actually fully re-wired it. At this juncture, I’m getting really close to doing that… the relays, that talk to relays, that talk to relays is just crazy.

I do the same thing with the schematics and have the entire 3 page flow chart from the ecu all taped together. the headlight circuit ground source looks to come from the headlight switch itself. I’m gonna cut into the two wires that are supposed to be ground, and tee a 14 ga. Wire. I’ll ground that to the column mount.