psu_Crash

Sounds like you are good to go! At least for now 😉 Have some fun with it! Maybe the snow will hold off for a bit

You're very welcome, really glad to hear it helped!! I run a Walbro 255lph in the stock location and it is also loud at times. I attribute it to getting warm after hard runs. As long as it has pressure, I'll continue to run it. I'm sure the MKS in tank is a great setup. I don't know anyone personally that is running it, but I will probably go that route when mine dies. What does the AFR look like when it's acting up? If it still looks good under load I can't imagine it's the pump. Double check the vacuum line to the FPR. Maybe test it for vacuum/pressure leaks just to be sure. I run my idle speed a little closer to 1k. Mainly because I fear that my cam and semi solid engine mounts will rattle the car apart at lower RPM. Turn the idle stop in a hair to see if it helps. Does it stumble off idle when it's running poorly or will it rev free?

He used Steve and was sent the wrong part. Just to fill in this story 😉 Supposedly he is making it right though.

I don't think it really matters. Not like there is going to be an internal check valve in the cooler.

I'm not sure. I've never played with and auto. Check the FSM for a diagram here StarQuestGarage

Found it and it tests good under vacuum and pressure. Should clean up well. The rust on the bottom side isn't bad. I'll send the whole distributor. I don't have a use for it since going MPI and ditching this unit. Shoot me a PM with your shipping address.

I didn't make it out to the shop last night. I'll try to remember to take a look tonight. Yes, the FPR is boost referenced. I wouldn't cap off the FPR though. That could cause it to lean out bad and be a worse problem. Inatalling a mechanical fuel pressure gauge is the best way to tell if the pressure is increasing as it should. Run it temporarily and tape it to the hood for a quick check. The coolant temp sensor could be making it run rich too, thinking it is in warm up all the time. How do AFRs look when you slowly roll into it? Have you verified the timing? Boost leak shouldn't cause those issues, but I've seen stranger things. Still on coffee #1 for the day, so I'll think about it. I'm sure it's something simple, finding it is the fun part

That will happen. Well Mikie used to have them. Looks like he's out of stock now though https://mksmotorsport.com/product/vacuum-advance-oem-g54b/ I'll take a look around the shop. I may have one. If I find it and it tests good I'd send it for the price of shipping. That may not be THE problem, but you can at least move on from there.

@Alpina_BlueBack in the day this place was hopping! In the last 10 years it has really dropped off. The server issues didn't help anything. I joined SQC back in 98 and it's been a ride. BTW Beautiful ride! I have the same color combo in my 86. I have the original mats although I don't keep them in the car much anymore. Trying to keep them decent. Autozone specials in there most of the time lol Or I had them out for an auto-x and just didn't put them back in Good to see ya'll Holy late response, I know 😁

That sounds a lot like the vacuum advance on the distributor has gone bad. If you stay out of boost while driving will it still rev slowly? You can do a quick test to see if it holds vacuum. Stick a line on the vac advance and suck on it. Hold the vacuum with your tongue. Or if you have a mity vac, I suppose that would work too. If it bleeds off quickly that's definitely a problem.

I hope he made it runs as good as it looks!

And dangerous he was. I think of you often John 💙

It's kinda quiet around here these days. Just thought I'd thow out a HELLO to all of us that are still here. Old and new. Hope you are all having a great night in the shop with your StarQuest. I know I am 😊

You likely won't find a set that bolt directly with the correct offset without going with a 3 piece wheel. I run mustang cobra knock offs from american muscle with a 25mm spacer in the rear and 15mm in the front. 17x9 up front and 17x10.5 rear. This puts me at roughly 0 offset in the rear and +10 in the front if I remember correctly.

You are probably better off to finish the season with the current setup. The 16G SHOULD be a plug and play ... but we all know how that can go. The seperator sees vacuum from the accordian hose all the time to pull vapors/mist from the valve cover. Even with the stock setup draining to the pan, I would expect some kind of collection in the seperator. Might be just fine, just odd. Does your dipstick ever pop out? That's how I knew i needed to upgrade my valve cover vent and seperator. I was also running 25psi on a big ol Holset though, not 12psi on a 12A 😁

Any obstruction in that line to the seperator is definitely not helping you. Odd that it's not collecting anything still though. Have you checked the PCV while you're at it? Just put that 16G on there. It will be an entirely different car!

O boy ... she was not loved in your absense! There is/was a company selling a steering rack conversion, but I don't think they ever really delivered to to people who bought them. D2 suspension is still available as far as I know. That's the easiest suspension upgrade that will meet the task at this point. Swapping to a C5 setup sounds interesting! ... and a LOT of work

Hard to really tell in the vid, but that looks like oil smoke. It only takes a drop, so you might not lose enough to notice. I ran an EDIS system for a while and then used that trigger input for my standalone, then the modified dizzy for crank and cam signals. It's been a long road lol Time to go work on mine so I can get back to the track!!

Just watched the video. You are indeed testing correctly. That's odd ... apparently there is something going on there that I'm not aware of. Either way, I wouldn't sweat it. Seems like you are in OK territory for now.

HAHA! We don't think you are crazy. You're here, so we know you are! (we are too 🥸) Obviously the signals are functioning or you would not be running that well. What is "high boost"? 10.5 is a little rich, but nothing to be worried about. At least not in the short term. How does the AFR look when cruising? Glad to hear the track day went well! Nothing like getting out there and cleansing the soul. Can you tell what color the smoke puff is? If it's blue ish it could be a lot of things from turbo seals to valve stem seals ... etc. Those 2 things are the usual suspects though. If it is black then that's fuel. Are you running a blow off valve? That can cause a quick super rich condition because the metered air didn't make it to the combustion chamber and the ECU still adds fuel for it. As for the crank pickup, I sold that stuff off a long time ago and went with a modified distributor with an optical pickup from a mighty max for crank and cam signals. Since you plan to use smart coils, this route gives you the ability to run full sequectial instead of batch fire. Someday I'll finish my sequential setup. The crank trigger is an easier method to get running and slightly more accurate timing. Although I have not had issues after the initial setup headaches. Anyways ... I digress

I know there have been some issues with those injectors and our cars. Although I don't recall what the root cause is. Might have been the spray pattern. Your aftermarket injectors are low impedance, correct? I'm hoping you mean connected the meter between the negatiive (signal) side of the injector, then watched the voltage bleed off. Connecting that straight to ground is a good way to burn something up, Don't do that. The internal resistance of your meter is very high. It won't put a load on the circuit enough to draw it down. You should see a steady voltage. Ohm's law: Voltage = Current x Resistance. I see I also posted up in that thread lol From that post by Mike C "The ECI relay is ON when the ignition key is in the START position and when the ECU "sees" the engine is running. The START position turns the relay ON, the ECU then holds it ON as long as the ignition system is working. So testing the injectors for voltage with the engine stopped pretty much doesn't work. The ECU controls the "ground" lead to turn the injectors on/off." Hmm ... then Indiana says "When the key is in either the "on" or "start" position the injectors will have full battery voltage." I thought there was a pull up resistor build into the ECU that holds voltage high until it switches to ground. Maybe that's a little difficult to interpret exactly what Mike is saying. I wish you were closer, then I'd come over and bring test equipment to see for sure what's going on for sure. Track days on a questionable fuel system!? I don't advise that ... but I have definetely had mine on track with known issues... so, you do you. 😉 I have been MPI since the mid 2000s and never looked back. Just FYI

Hey Scott! Long time no see! @Forklift Does it run better with the old injectors in there?

That voltage level is definitely low. What is voltage at the secondary? It should be real close to the battery voltage. The resistors have been known to occasionally go bad. I would measure the resistor to see if it is in spec. Looks like 3 ohms. Check this thread https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/90953-injector-resistors/ Something is up with that primary circuit. Also you should have power with just the key on. No need to crank.

Well ?? It's after Saturday. We need an update 😊

Welcome back! Looking forward to updates