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psu_Crash

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Everything posted by psu_Crash

  1. Not too many questions at all. We will get you there If you pull out the relay that will take the fan out of the equation, but the AC fan will still run. With the relay out your AC fan should come on normally with either thermosensor 2, dual pressure or the pressure switch. Engine coolant switch isn't tied to the AC fan. You could jump ground to each of those, or any of those for testing purposes without having to let the car run. If that all works as it should with the relay pulled, then yes, you have an issue with either the fan 2 relay or the fan itself. I would put my bets on the fan motor or potentially wiring going to it.
  2. He hasn't been active here since April 9th. I wouldn't bet on ever seeing him here again.
  3. Secondary fan and the AC fan are wired in parallel. Take a look at page 90 HERE I would grab a meter and check resistance through that secondary fan. If it was a dead short or close to it. That would cause the issue. You can pull the secondary fan relay out and let it warm up again. Should see the AC fan come on close to when the primary comes on. Edit: posted before I saw your response. Sounds like you found the issue though!
  4. Hello former lurker! I think we all did that at first. The hatch issue is common for a lot of us. I have adjusted mine on the 86 a few times and it doesn't make a lot of difference. Sure wouldn't hurt to try some aggressive washers. It may be that the gasket/bushing piece on the hatch side is shot too. Someone was making replacements a bit ago. Can't remember if i saw it here or facebook. The AC fan is connected in parallel with thermo switch 2, so yes you have to leave the high temp switch in there. It is also turned on by a pressure switch on the AC system, although I'm not sure if that would be enough to run when it should. Look at page 90 here http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_manual_-_group_26_-_electrical.pdf By the way, good looking Quest! For a red one
  5. That's weird ... sounds like it must be running rich under load and partially fouling the plugs?
  6. Those look like my old STs. I installed MK1 pillow ball camber plate in the rear to even things out. I liked those springs a lot. "upgraded" to the Eibach's 10+ years ago and I was able to dive the airdam into the pavement at autocross events. ST went back on with much better results. Then D2 entered the scene and I never looked back. Eibach were a good spring for cruising the streeets, but calling them a performance spring is a stretch in my opinion.
  7. If you do have them repair the dent in the spoiler I'd love to know what they use. Everything I have tried fails pretty quickly.
  8. It's been that long since your tree incident .. man we are getting old. I have a hatch with a good spoiler and bad glass that I'd love to swap over to the white car. Keep us posted on the removal process. Always been told it's near impossible so never tried myself.
  9. Getting close! Anti-sieze on the LCA bolt is a good call. I lubed the snot out of mine too after the first nightmare removal.
  10. I'll be there at some point for some amount of time. See ya'll soon!
  11. I agree with the voltage. Many strange things have happened on mine when it dips below 10V. Give that a try and see if the logs look any better. Also take a trigger and a tooth log. That may show what's really going on.
  12. What version of MS are you using? There is a noise filter function in MS2 extra code (and newer) that can help with that. I had the same issue with my MS years ago, only slightly different. I would see batt V spikes that corresponded to the RPM spikes. I thought for sure it was caused by bad/incorrect grounding somewhere, but never did track it down. I also installed a filter capacitor on my MS board from advice in the forums. That may have been removed after I put a filter on the power lines though ... I can't really remember. Either way that's not an option with microsquirt. Are you getting lost sync counts? Seeing the cranking PW at 11.5ms max seems awful high to me too. What size injectors? Are you priming at power up? Maybe that is set too high also.
  13. That can be a leak at the back of the valve cover too. It will run down and make it appear the rear main, housing or the trans is leaking. I recommend getting some UV dye for the oil. Then clean the snot out of it. Wait till dark, start it up and shine the black light. Found many leaks this way that were not at all coming from where I thought.
  14. Any progress is still progress! I remember fighting with that LCA bolt years back and being shocked at how much new ones were! I keep saying mine will be back on the road this year too. I never dreamed a "paint job" would take me 2+ years
  15. Not sure Ronnie at JDL is still willing to make them, but you can always hit him up to ask. I love my JDL manifold! Chad is probably your best bet
  16. I did that for my first autocross season and it JACKED my back up! I started out with intentions of drag racing then fell into autocross. It's a blast! I'm sure you will have a good time with it.
  17. I get that. Probably the only thing really holding me up right now is the 2 trips and cost of fuel. ... maybe the angry wifey ... maybe she'll get over it
  18. I ran into this with my car too. I'm 6'2" and didn't fit with my helmet on. I took the seat out and removed the sliders. Then made custom brackets to drop the seat 1-2" and also moved it back a few. Now it's in a fixed position, but I'm the only one driving it anyways. So all good
  19. Basically just said the same thing as above. Hopefully I can take you up on the offer before the end of summer!
  20. But it is worth every penny! Then you know for sure what is going on with your air fuel mixture.
  21. I just responded to your facebook post too
  22. Rear 8s have definitely been ran in the front before. Sounds like our local SHP hoarders are holding out on you!
  23. I always intended on just replacing those links with a fuse box. I understand the links act different than a fuse, to an extent. A good CC class time delay fuse will definitely protect other wires from burning though without being a hassle.
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