psu_Crash

Looks like they are available O'Reilly. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/brakes/brake-drums---rotors/brake-rotors/d133f11235f8/v/a/7062/automotive-car-1987-mitsubishi-starion?q=brake+rotors

I have used nothing but Redline MT90 in the trans. This thread talks about the rear end oil. I can't remember what I used there. https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/135294-recommended-rear-end-gear-oil/

Rebuild may be the best bet. If it is just the damaged cable, then that is a relatively easy fix.

I knew someone would know! Thanks for the info Steve

I remember someone here doing that a long time ago. Maybe a search would show something.

I agree. It looks like a quality job on the swap. I bet it's a blast to drive!

Ok, who is it? I'm sure we know this guy https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1987-mitsubishi-starion-9/

Welcome! 10AWG is way to small. Especially with the 14AWG link. 10 is good for 30 amps. 14 is only rated for 15 amps. While charging you will see well over 50A up to 75A depending on the year alternator and condition, as well as the battery condition. #4 copper or 2 AWG aluminum is what you need for that load. Sounds a lot like a bad ground somewhere. If you take a meter to the + side of the relay when it should be energized and the other meter lead straight to the battery, does it read 12V? If so, it's definitely a ground issue. A lot of items are a switched ground setup. Meaning the 12V side is hot when the car is on and the ground switching is what turns on the relay. There should be a heavy ground from the block to the battery. I would check that first. Start taking resistance readings from the - battery terminal to different ground points and see what you get. Should be low resistance. Ideally single digits.

Just 3rd gear? I would suspect other items are also needed. I would just swap the entire transmission. It's been a few years since I needed one, but they were always around. Maybe a localish member with a spare can hook you up.

I deleted my rear wiper long ago, so no need for me. I see you are in Chattanooga though. I work in Cleveland, so hello neighbor!

I don't have any narrow body parts, unfortunately. Car is looking good though! That paint will be a different animal once you cut and buff. I'm in the middle of doing just that to mine, also with fresh paint. I'll look forward to updates 🙂

I saw that too. Pretty cool. Someone has way more ambition than I do!

Glad to hear all is well! Looking forward to your updates

Sold for $13,850. I really thought it would go closer to 20k.

I have also been watching this. Especially since I have an 87 Valencia in the garage 😄

This is the extended "Waddington Wing" in memory of our buddy Graham. Currently this is the only version they offer, although I'm told a factory spec version is coming. I forgot he sold the sill plates. May have to ask about those now. Custom CF hood will be my next part. Not soon though How was fitment of your parts? Mounting points line up and body lines match? I'm not concerned, just curious.

While doing paint I was dead set on not reinstalling my severely beat up 3 piece rear wing. Boosted Diamonds to the rescue! I haven't unpacked the 3rd piece yet because it's packed so well! Very soon. You won't find a better guy to deal with, thanks Janner!

Kia sensor looks to the be the same as the Kiggly, but like you said, it still needs to trigger off something. It's always more expensive and take 10x as long as you think! I also use a modified distributor with the yoshifab hi res wheel.

Fair enough. Custom driveshaft can be a chore. A lot easier than the swap you're doing though 😄 I had all the parts to do the 4G64/63 at one time and sold them off dirt cheap when I moved. Serious mistake. This is the route I planned to keep the engine on the factory mounts and drivetrain. No one wants to move the weight forward on a RWD. This one requires a stand alone, which I was using anyways, but I think they sell a kit to work with the factory ECU too. Not sure what your plan is there. https://www.kigglyracing.com/product-page/billet-12-tooth-crank-trigger-sensor-kit-v3

https://projectzerog.com/tight_fit.shtml

I was able to order it through a vendor at work for about half of what I could find online. 😁 Thanks again Kev!

YES!!!!! I was looking at all the options and sizes there, but couldn't decide. I almost messaged you directly since I knew you had done it. Thank you Kev!!

Has anyone found a replacement for the B pillar vent gasket? I was thinking maybe some thin rubber edge trim from McMaster, but if one of you has a solution, I'm all ears! This plastic gasket around the edge, in case you're wondering what i'm talking about 😉

I also assume he means a freeze plug. Time to get a better look. If it is running right out then it should be easy to spot. May need a helper to fill while you watch.

Sounds like an exhaust leak. Maybe a cracked exhaust manifold. Turbo mounting and the downpipe are also good places to check. I suppose it's possible for the throttle shaft seals to allow fuel smell under boost. Although not very likely, in my opinion.