psu_Crash

I saw that too. Pretty cool. Someone has way more ambition than I do!

Glad to hear all is well! Looking forward to your updates

Sold for $13,850. I really thought it would go closer to 20k.

I have also been watching this. Especially since I have an 87 Valencia in the garage 😄

This is the extended "Waddington Wing" in memory of our buddy Graham. Currently this is the only version they offer, although I'm told a factory spec version is coming. I forgot he sold the sill plates. May have to ask about those now. Custom CF hood will be my next part. Not soon though How was fitment of your parts? Mounting points line up and body lines match? I'm not concerned, just curious.

While doing paint I was dead set on not reinstalling my severely beat up 3 piece rear wing. Boosted Diamonds to the rescue! I haven't unpacked the 3rd piece yet because it's packed so well! Very soon. You won't find a better guy to deal with, thanks Janner!

Kia sensor looks to the be the same as the Kiggly, but like you said, it still needs to trigger off something. It's always more expensive and take 10x as long as you think! I also use a modified distributor with the yoshifab hi res wheel.

Fair enough. Custom driveshaft can be a chore. A lot easier than the swap you're doing though 😄 I had all the parts to do the 4G64/63 at one time and sold them off dirt cheap when I moved. Serious mistake. This is the route I planned to keep the engine on the factory mounts and drivetrain. No one wants to move the weight forward on a RWD. This one requires a stand alone, which I was using anyways, but I think they sell a kit to work with the factory ECU too. Not sure what your plan is there. https://www.kigglyracing.com/product-page/billet-12-tooth-crank-trigger-sensor-kit-v3

https://projectzerog.com/tight_fit.shtml

I was able to order it through a vendor at work for about half of what I could find online. 😁 Thanks again Kev!

YES!!!!! I was looking at all the options and sizes there, but couldn't decide. I almost messaged you directly since I knew you had done it. Thank you Kev!!

Has anyone found a replacement for the B pillar vent gasket? I was thinking maybe some thin rubber edge trim from McMaster, but if one of you has a solution, I'm all ears! This plastic gasket around the edge, in case you're wondering what i'm talking about 😉

I also assume he means a freeze plug. Time to get a better look. If it is running right out then it should be easy to spot. May need a helper to fill while you watch.

Sounds like an exhaust leak. Maybe a cracked exhaust manifold. Turbo mounting and the downpipe are also good places to check. I suppose it's possible for the throttle shaft seals to allow fuel smell under boost. Although not very likely, in my opinion.

There is a metal pipe that goes from the water pump around the exhaust side of the block and the back to the heater core hoses. The rubber hoses at the heater core end is where I would focus. Look here on page 12. https://mksmotorsport.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/cooling.pdf 110 psi on all cyclinders doesn't sound like a blown head gasket. It is a little low, but if it's even you are probably ok.

I got both. It's funny how as a kid you thought ... ugh ... clothes!? Now as an adult, new socks!? YES! 😁

Hope you all had a great day with the family!

Glad to hear you are still around and the SQ is going well! Not too much happening here anymore, but I'm doing great!

Injectors have been sent to Injector Rehab. I'll report back with their findings.

Hey Buddy! Sold the last one huh ... I didn't believe you when we met at Radwood all those years ago and you said you were getting out of it. Sounds like an epic trip. if i ever get over there I'll be sure to check it out.

Well, I thought I'd stop over and get this car running in no time. Nope. I measured injector signals with the o-scope and injector connected. Revealing some odd things on the first injector. Took a resistance measurement and it showed open. I thought, injector clips. Second injector gave a good scope reading, although I'm not sure what to think of the noise. Maybe feedback from the starter, maybe not. Scope Signal Either way at this point I'm sure the ECU and most wiring is ok. Meter on the injectors measured 2.7-2.8 ohms on both. After this I bypassed the clips al together using some alligator clips. Had him crank it while I watched in the throttle body. Nothing. Checked fuel flow and pressure as best I could without a gauge. Feed line definitely has pressure. At this point I decide it must be the injectors. Took his injectors back to my shop to test fire and back flow them. The connections were pretty corroded. They got cleaned up and the clips started to read correct resistance. Using the 9V battery trick, small tube on the injector, carb cleaner in it and 30psi air connected. No spray... no click from the injector either. $#@! Second injector acted the same way. Forward or reverse flow. I'm not sure how and I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't witnessed first hand. Both at the same time seems highly unlikely, but here we are. I recommended sending them for cleaning. I'm not sure if they can be saved or not. One way to find out

Not that it helps you any, I sent B-line a set of OEM lines a couple years back so they could make these. i also bought a set. Seems to be high quality lines. Just FYI

Gotcha. Apparently I missed that part

He forgot to mention it will run on spray. He has checked for cranking signal to the ECU also. I'm not far. One of these days I should just grab my electrical diagnostic supplies and go check it out. Having a scope on a few signals will tell me a lot. The fusible links were also cleaned/changed. After that it did fire on its own, very briefly. As if it was just a prime pulse burning off.

Sounds like you are good to go! At least for now 😉 Have some fun with it! Maybe the snow will hold off for a bit