techboy

Wish I would have known this when I had my 87 Flatty. I had the same problem. Never looked into it, didn't realize it was the easy to fix.

I made another one ... since I did a video for the rears, I made one for the fronts as well. Honestly, its more of a standard brake rebuild job, but I was doing it anyway so I just let the camera roll. YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/ikEFFyTjRzs

This probably a dumb question, but did you check Rock Auto? I'm pretty sure I got one there, but that was several years ago.

Sounds about right.

They can be hard to find nowadays and then tend to sell for around 1K - give or take condition. But, they do pop up for sale every now and then. I've had my eye for a few years now, but there hasn't been close enough to me.

I recently rebuilt my drivers side rear brake, so I decided to film myself doing it. This is meant to work hand-in-hand with the write-ups kev and obsolete did (I reference their write-ups in the video actually). So hopefully between the write-ups and video they should help anyone venturing to do this ... particularly the e-brake process. It's roughly 1/2 hour in total, but you can certain slide to whatever parts you may want to see. Here's the link to my video on YouTube: Starion Conquest Rear Brake Rebuild

Looks like a nice car. My bet would be once you go all through the all the work of getting the original motor in there you found and ironing out all the kinks you'll probably want to leave it alone for a bit. Preludedude on here just did a 1JZ swap, you can check out how his came out.

Try the PETG and see how you like it. Its a bit stronger than PLA and gives a smoother print. It won't look as layered as PLA. I like PLA for models but find it breaks pretty easy for anything functional.

I like Fusion alright. We piloted it at work last year for an entire year. We ended going back to Inventor which is really similar just a little bit more powerful. During the pandemic when we were all working from home we were using Onshape b/c it was cloud based. I really like Onshape and still use it personally, but I think I have to pay now b/c the last time I logged in all my files were read-only and there was a message if I wanted them accessible I had to do something. I need to follow up. We just got a resin printer at work. Anycubic. I'm learning go use it right now. It can do way more complicated designs but it's even slower than 3D printing and there's some clean up involved - and it stinks like chemicals to high heaven when it's running.

Model looks good tux. What infill settings are you printing with? And what material are you using? I really PTEG lately, but I have access to PLA, ABS, and Nylon.

Ahh ... you and Tom are finally going to meet!

X2 with Kev. Ive had multiple of these cars at this point and never had one where once you remove the crank pulley bolt doesn't just slide off or require a light tap from a weighted plastic hammer. Even if it is hung up do what tux said above. You shouldn't need to purchase a puller.

Agree with Kev. I see thar being more of a 25k car. Maybe 30 at an auction house.

I went out to the garage at one point and realized I had left the driver side window down on the Starion back in September, so I put it up. Then I went back inside. Lol.

Those are some awesome numbers Preludedude. Can't wait to drool over the pics. I fantasize about swapping my car. I'm so burnt out of dealing with minor molehill for tat problems and lack of Mitsu parts. But, I'm kinda like you ... I got another build on in my garage right now so I kinda just wanna drop it off somewhere and have someone do it for me. I'm done proving myself to others.

Happy New Year all!! Still happy to be a part of this forum, despite how small it's gotten over the years

I only do about 300 miles a year. I never go far b/c it always seems to have a quirky issues. Farthest away I've driven it is an hour. A few local shows each year and that's about it. I'd like to drive it more, but that's about it these days.

I read a week ago or so where you replied with the same info about the wear on the bearing ... which is why I'm not interested in rebuilding this again. Seriously, I probably only have 1500-1000 miles on this rebuild. I'd like to find an alternate pump solution.

This thread is a few months old, but I meant to post this a while back. BUGG is correct, the switch is down inside the passenger side latch. I never did mess with it to figure out my problem (could just be the bulb honestly), but here's a pic of the switch.

Just an update to this thread ... the link Texas posted on eBay ... I purchased the rebuild kit ... waited about a month and then with no communication or warning I got a full refund. Guess they are NLA. So, I'm not sure what I'm gonna do. I have some DSM power steering pumps laying around. I think I'm gonna see if there's not some way to make one of them work on the car using the OEM bracket over the winter.

Gas tank looks amazing! Like what you did with the fuel pump.

Question: how are you separating the lens and then what are using to put them back together?

Lot of hours into all that assembly. I know. Did it all myself too. Looking great. Can't wait to swing by and see more of the progress in person.

Griots was mentioned earlier in the thread. A good friend of mine with a 66 Galaxie talked me into Griots products about 2 years ago. I've never looked back. I've noticed a huge difference in the way the car looks and stays. Love their products for detailing.

Man ... wish I would have known about this last winter when I totally rebuilt my rear subframe. Doh.