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techboy

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    2014
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Everything posted by techboy

  1. This was one of the first jobs I ever did when I bought my first Quest many moons ago. I was able to do the whole job without removing too many things - mostly just air intake stuff. I do remember I had a difficult time snaking it into place. Do you have a crow's foot wrench? I'd use one of those so you don't round anything.
  2. Johnny Wadd has a post from 2013 in this section on how to do this, but like so many other threads, all the pics are missing, so here's my recreation of this process: You can remove the console latch with the center console still installed in the car. You do NOT have to remove it the whole console unless you want to for some reason. For this tutorial, this console was already removed. First, remove the flocked bin/cubby inside your console by prying up on it. It'll pop out. Next, remove the two hinge bolts that hold the lid. The lid will be removable at this point. Now remove the 4 larger screws you see. Under the map lid you will find 5 smaller screws. Remove all five. Remove the hard plastic piece and you'll have access to the latch. If it's broken, it may just fall out. Don't lose the spring. Wrap the coil spring around your new / or repaired console latch like so. Back in the lid there are two VERY small pin holes. Carefully feed the two posts on the coil spring into the console lid pin holes and snap the latch gently into place. It should look like this. Reverse the process and put the map holder back in with the 5 screws. If the spring is installed properly the latch will be "sprung" into a downward position. When latched, it'll sit in a downward position like so. The act of pulling up on it will unlatch it and allow you open the console lid. The plastic tab on the latch should catch on the plastic ledge cast into the console as shown. That's it. You've replaced, or repaired your center console latch. Reinstall the rest of the screws as necessary put your lid back on the console and enjoy your ride on step closer to perfection!
  3. Finally got a batch of these printed up this week: The glossier 6 on the left are PETG. The more flat black 2 on the right are ABS. I was having some distortion issues with the ABS and had to throw a bunch of them out b/c I wasn't happy with the quality. I have another batch of 6 going in PETG as we speak. If anyone wants one, 15 shipped should do it (10+5 shipping). Shoot me a PM and I'll get one out to you. Things are kinda dead around here these days unfortunately, but if there's enough continual interest I'll put a formal F/S thread in the Bazaar and I can print them as needed.
  4. I honestly don't remember anymore. 🤔
  5. Gotcha. Car im referring to I sold to screen name "coldscript" - dont know if that was Elliot or not. Fun video regardless. I've watched a couple of their videos before.
  6. What a fun watch. Awesome. They really did a nice job cleaning it up. That car wasn't originally red was it? I sold one of your boys a red 87 back in like 2011-ish.
  7. Beagle ... let me give this a print tomorrow at work and try it out on my car. I'll keep you posted.
  8. I'm not sure if I have a black spool of PETG. I'll have to check. If not, it looks like ABS is good up to about 17O degrees, which should be good for an interior I'd think.
  9. Love the color combo with the black wheels.
  10. I actually had in mind years ago to work on developing these when that guy came along. I didn't want to steal his thunder, so I backed off. But, since the board reboot I haven't seen him nor do I remember who it was - so I started working on them again. These prototypes are just PLA. I have PETG, but I found a spool of black of ABS at work on Friday, so I was planning on giving that a shot. Plus a higher quality, these are printed at a medium right now. I think the final will look a lot nicer.
  11. So, before I bolt the front grill back in place, I wanted to do a little bit of custom work. I stumbled across this photo that someone posted a while back by accident and it made me stop my scrolling instantly. I love the look of relocating the rear Starion trunk badge up front. Now I just have to figure out how to do it. So if anyone wants to recreate this look, here's how I went about it. It's hard to see, but I started by measuring and marking out where I needed to cut the grill. I very carefully cut the plastic out with a dremel with a blade installed. Then I cut out a piece of cardboard and mocked up how the badge would look. You need to some way to "mount", so I needed a flat surface behind the badge. So I got some model clay and packed the empty area with the clay. It looks something like this... I let that dry overnight. In the morning, I popped it out. Now I have a profile shape I can measure. I drew the shape in CAD and they cut out some plastic with a laser to test fit. Came out perfect. Then I 3D printed a "filler" that length of my opening I cut. Looks pretty good. And better yet, it fits!! Now that I know I fits I printed out a black one. I drilled two holes in the grill to line up with the holes I located in my 3D printed part. Some glue, screws and clamping and now we let it dry. Super excited to see how this is going to come out.
  12. With the bumper back in place I was able to get the fog light installed. I have the frames powdercoated in black way back when I started this. Left side. Both sides. So that's where I'm at.
  13. Now it's time to get the front of the car back together. I decided in the end to NOT use the original front bumper support that came off this car, but to pick up another one. Can't remember who I got it from on the board anymore, but it was in super nice condition. It's also time to pull out some of these freshly painted pieces that have been wrapped up since I brought car home. First thing I did was throw a soft blanket down on the ground and very carefully work the bumper support into the front bumper cover. Now it's time to mount the valance. I didn't exactly mount this the "factory" way. After the nightmare of rusted 10mm it was to get this apart, I decided I didn't ever want to deal with that again. So I drilled a series of holes every 8 inches or so and looped zip ties through. I utilized the factory hardware where I could on the left and right sides, but everything in the middle is zip tied together on the inside so you can't see it. I've ever need to remove the lower valance I can just cut the ties and it'll drop off. ( I should have documented what I did a bit better and showed some pics). So here we are at the front of the car. Had a little help from my wife lifting this into place carefully. Starting to bolt everything up from underneath.
  14. Well I'm a little embarrassed to say it's taken me about a year of working here and there as I've had time and about 8 prototypes to FINALLY come up with a repo console latch that works properly. I've been super close for a few months now, was just a matter of adjusting a few things literally by 32nds. I need to print a final black one at work on Monday and test again, but if it fits I should be able to run a batch of them later in the week if anyone is interested. I'm not sure what to charge for these, but I'll come up with something. 😎
  15. I repainted mine with Dupicolor black trim and bumper cover paint. I've used it a bunch of times on various things and it's always worked pretty well.
  16. I don't think anyone can 3D print wiper cowls. You would have to have a machine with a really large base plate. Most of the largest 3D printers I've seen are 18" beds. I have 5 machines at my disposal, and I think the largest bed is 12 inches wide. Wiper cowls need to be injection molded by a plastics company. Tux is right ... Motocam and MKS both have them. If you need them, I'd jump on them b/c you never know how many they have left and that's usually and item that needs to be batch ordered.
  17. I can probably make one pretty easy. Although I am in the middle of 2 projects for BKB94 right now. Let me take a peek at it.
  18. What was the difference between ST and OEM sway bar? Is it thicker? The OEM is pretty thick to begin with ... just curious.
  19. Good to see you stop by Chris. Hope you and the fam are well. I keep tabs on your random posts on IG. Keep working on that SQ.
  20. Coke!! Your still out there! Wow. Good to see you. I bought a downpipe years ago that someone told me was a TEP. Doesn't mean it was though. It had a flat flange and it bolted up to my Mookeeh 2.5 cat back just fine - which I bought new. I don't want to give you false hope. Were you not able to see online pics of the DP you bought from TEP?
  21. That's actually less than I would have thought. But when you can a ton of stuff yourself, that really helps cut cost. It cost me $5500 to have my car painted in 2015. 9 years ago already - Yikes!
  22. Haven't seen you on the board in a while. Glad to see you're still around. 👍
  23. I remember when you contacted me and offered it all to me. I just didn't have cash at the time ... I kick myself over that very often.
  24. I'd love to do the wideblock 4G swap myself - but finding a wideblock is not so easy.
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