techboy

I'd have to check my car, but I believe that connects to a ground over by where the EGR is typically mounted. EDIT - i was almost right. The one end comes from the resistor that mounts next to the ignitor box, the other end grounds to a mounting bolt under the ignitor box. According to your first pic you are missing the ground end.

I have no thoughts myself other than to say good luck figuring it out and post up when you do. I sympathize with you. Headlight issues are a pain on these cars. I went through several months last car show season where they would pop up and down, but I had no light. I got stranded at a car show that ended at 11 at night with no headlights and my wife had to come get after she went to bed. She wasn't too happy. I ended up having to replace the relays in the fuse block behind the metal cover hidden behind the battery. Took me a bit to diagnose and figure out though till I got it corrected.

I personally don't know anyone who has one, let alone someone who has one for sale. That said, if you do some digging on here there was someone years ago who had posted a link to the audio file. If that file is still around and you have some graphic art skills you might be able to ship the cassette image and recreate it? Heck, I think I'm talking myself into this.

Man, what a shame to hear about kev. I dont think I have much front end metal parts-wise, but let us know a specific list once you assess things and I'll let you if I have anything.

Maybe? I have no record or evidence of my car ever being hit up front so I don't think it was my car. The roof... thats a different story .. lol. I did notice the drain plug was just an o-ring. Thanks for heads up on keeping an eye on that.

At the end of last season my OEM rad starting leaking. I took it to a shop to have it looked at, but they wanted crazy money to fix it. So, I'm eventually going to attempt to fix it myself, but for now I needed to get the car back up and running so I can get the car moved and get a different project in there. Anyway, I ordered up the CXRacing Radiator since it's about the only left you can get. I've heard and read on here often about "fitment issues". I wanted to share my experiences and feedback here. Showed up boxed really well. It's a nice quality pc, gives a good impression out of the box. I decided while I had it all apart to clean up the fans. So I took them apart. I cleaned all the bugs and road rash with Simple Green and then scrubbed them down with some 3M pads. Then I pained them white with some plastic adhesion spray paint. Reinstalled them. Still have some Natallica repro stickers left over from my restoration - so I figured it was time to bust these out too. Remounted them in the OEM locations. When I went to mount the fans I ran into some of my first issues. Each fan has 4 mount points, on each fan, only 2 of them matched up, the other 2 needed slight adjustment. Not bad, but just off by about a mm or two. I used a Dremel with a metal grinding bit to enlarge the radiator holes out a bit. After adjusting a few holes I got everything mounted up alright. Then I ran into the next issue. When I test fit it in the car, I had a vary similar issue withe mount tabs from CXRacing. I had to enlarge them just slightly to get the holes to line up there too. In this pic I had to enlarge the right hole a bit. Finally able to get it installed and mounted up. Fitment is definitely that as others have said. Here's a pic of the distance between the fan blade and the water pump pulley. There's about an 1/8 inch clearance. Here it is from the front. All back together. I did have a little trouble with the OVCP, but after some "persuading", I got things to line up. So, overall, a pretty easy install. Not 100% plug and play. But, if you have any capabilities at all, it shouldn't be bad to overcome any fitment issues you might run into.

Up to 9100 now. It's a great color combo to this day, considering the year it was manufactured.

Cool that it's listed as a 1990 and has manual belts. Love it. Like the price too!

That's interesting. When I did my Euro tail light install i had to do some rewiring with the hazard and I always wondered why. I think I had to cut a wire. But, I was just following a guide, so I just proceeded. This makes sense though.

Agreed! Merry Christmas (1 day late) everyone!

I've also always run 50s. I personally don't love the taller look, but it just didn't make sense financially to me.

Pretty cool little site you found there Kev!

That car was sweet. Black with copper stripes. He did just the right amount of work to that car to make it right.

Ah yes ... thats what's missing.

I have a 2.5 inch downpipe, but it's only a downpipe, I don't have the rest of the exhaust system. I had a JMFab custom make it for me years ago, but I'm running an MK1 turbo back now.

There's a plastic surround housing that that switch sits inside of. It looks like that is missing in your photo. I'm assuming thats the cancellation switch that's just to the right of the hood release? It's a little hard to tell where your at on the dash in that photo.

Popped my hood, but not much of a help. I can't see that connector, esp with the battery in place. I'll be pulling the battery though shortly. If you still haven't figured it out by then I'll take a look for you.

I can pop my hood and look when I get home today.

X2. I just bought something from Steffan a few weeks back and I've dealt with him years ago when he was up here in the NJ area. Good Dude, I'd buy from him anytime.

That is 1000% an AI write-up. I agree, probably leaving some money table, but hey, it's his car so I guess in the end he has the right to list it how he wants.

Great back story Randy. I kinda always wondered how you ended up with the name Dad on the forum.

This was just posted close to me on FB. https://www.facebook.com/share/L4EguMqZRo2ioQab/

Check this thread out. https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/150491-how-to-retractable-antenna-repair/

Agreed. I had a similar situation a few years back. Take it all apart, clean it up and coat it with white lithium grease and see what happens.

I second Dad, keep them out if the motor runs smoothly. They are just more potential for failure. I had balance shafts in a previous SQ that got low on oil pressure, the shaft got hot, expanded and seized in the motor trashing the whole thing. I had to pull the motor and rebuild the whole thing. That time I eliminated the shafts. Never looked back.