techboy

I actually listed my Starion for sale 2 years ago for one the nicest Turbo 944's I have ever come across. The seller was super cool and gave me a chance, but in the end I couldn't sell the car quick enough and it sold ... unfortunately the car went overseas. I LOVE 944's and would really like to own one someday.

I'll definitely post up with what I find out, but it might be a little bit - like fall or winter. Other than that the initial puff of burnt oil the car is running really well and I'm in the middle of a building a garage at the new house, restoring a Galant VR-4 with my son and I bought a new turbo for the Eclipse almost 2 years ago I'd like to get installed and tuned, so barring anything crazy the Starion is kinda on the back burner for now. Honestly, I don't think I would ever build another G54B at this point. If something were to happen to my current motor, I'd swap - just not sure to what. I'm kinda between 4G63, 5.0 and 1JZ. I'm still kicking myself for not buying all the 4G63 stuff from you when you moved.

If they are just standard o-rings then I probably already have them in one of the o-ring kits I have then. Pretty sure I saw the valve stem seals on Dad's website. I'll try doing a new PCV valve before I do anything. Having to do rings would be really disappointing since I never trash on the car and it has about 4-5k miles on the rebuild in the last 10 years. If that's the case I may live with it for this season and figure what I want to do over winter. Like I said, it only does it once after startup and first shift. Then it's fine. Something is seeping while its sitting and then its burning if off.

This season my car has started puffing some smoke after the first shift after start up. It does it once and then it won't do it again while driving. So naturally I'm thinking it's time for new valve stem seals. Which kinda stinks considering how few miles I've put on this car since restore, but I guess they get hard and don't seal anymore even while sitting. Anyway, I was reading up on some old threads about doing the job and I stumbled across one where Shelby mentioned you should do the Jet Valve Elimination O-rings too b/c oil can sit on top of them and cause the same symptom. I'd hate to replace the valve stem seals and discover the car is still doing it b/c I didn't do the o-rings. 1 - Can anyone verify that is in fact true? Shelby was usually pretty trustworthy. 2 - I don't see the o-rings for sale anywhere separately. Anyone know the size? Or is it easier to just buy a new elimination kit while the valve cover is off?

I love Starquest wheels. One if the few production cars that IMO came eith the perfect set of wheels.

That response has you rebuilding the bottom end ... cleaning the block and putting in new bearings. If you just had a blown head gasket you could literally just pull the head and leave the block in the car and replace the gasket. Depending on the severity of the situation, of course, but that response is more of a total engine rebuild.

Mookeeh used to sell a whole assembly as well (thats whats on my car) but I don't know if he still does. Edit .. it doesn't look like their available anymore, or at least at this time.

Another thing to add onto the pile here ... are you still running an OEM FPR? If so, it's probably pretty old at this point. I ran into an issue just 2 years ago where my car was stumbling at 3500ish RPM's like yours. I tried all kinds of things before I finally bought an aftermarket FPR and installed it. (I was resistant b/c I was trying to keep the car as OEM as possible) Car ran great. Here I was chasing a problem all over the place when it was a weak diaphragm in the FPR and it wasn't getting the fuel it needed under higher rpm. I agree with the other posts above here - it seems like you have multiple issues going on at once, and I agree your stuck in closed loop - which should be a CTS problem.

Multiple place listing possibly. Maybe someone bought it locally?

Nice work kev. More importantly I'm impressed with you patience.

I know someone local to me who has a Starion and has some health issues and is therefore looking to sell. It's a black 87. Last time I rode in it, it was a solid running car. Im not sure what he's asking, but if your interested PM me and I can put the 2 of you in touch.

I usually just fill everything up with as much fluid as it will take. I put the cap on and take the car for a short drive, making sure it get to operating temp. I usually just drive around the neighborhood or something. Then I park it and let it cool down. And then the next time I drive the car I just top it off again. I've done this method several times on these cars and it always seems to work just fine.

Don't know where you're located other than the US as it says, but Steve is in VA I believe. If you're on a budget your probably not going to want to pay to tow a car I'd assume. I start just by looking on FB Marketplace and hit the LOCAL button. You might something right in your area. Any car that has been sitting for a while could fall prey to rust, make sure you look it over underneath real well. It can take a lot to bring one of these back. Took me 6 years - there's other's on here that have taken longer.

Great info to have reposted.

This is a pic I took of my car today. You can see the one end is connected to the noise filter or resistor or whatever the hack that thing is, the other end just has a ringlet on it that is grounded to the bolt under the ignitor box. I could have got my phone more underneath for a better pic, but you get the idea.

I'd have to check my car, but I believe that connects to a ground over by where the EGR is typically mounted. EDIT - i was almost right. The one end comes from the resistor that mounts next to the ignitor box, the other end grounds to a mounting bolt under the ignitor box. According to your first pic you are missing the ground end.

I have no thoughts myself other than to say good luck figuring it out and post up when you do. I sympathize with you. Headlight issues are a pain on these cars. I went through several months last car show season where they would pop up and down, but I had no light. I got stranded at a car show that ended at 11 at night with no headlights and my wife had to come get after she went to bed. She wasn't too happy. I ended up having to replace the relays in the fuse block behind the metal cover hidden behind the battery. Took me a bit to diagnose and figure out though till I got it corrected.

I personally don't know anyone who has one, let alone someone who has one for sale. That said, if you do some digging on here there was someone years ago who had posted a link to the audio file. If that file is still around and you have some graphic art skills you might be able to ship the cassette image and recreate it? Heck, I think I'm talking myself into this.

Man, what a shame to hear about kev. I dont think I have much front end metal parts-wise, but let us know a specific list once you assess things and I'll let you if I have anything.

Maybe? I have no record or evidence of my car ever being hit up front so I don't think it was my car. The roof... thats a different story .. lol. I did notice the drain plug was just an o-ring. Thanks for heads up on keeping an eye on that.

At the end of last season my OEM rad starting leaking. I took it to a shop to have it looked at, but they wanted crazy money to fix it. So, I'm eventually going to attempt to fix it myself, but for now I needed to get the car back up and running so I can get the car moved and get a different project in there. Anyway, I ordered up the CXRacing Radiator since it's about the only left you can get. I've heard and read on here often about "fitment issues". I wanted to share my experiences and feedback here. Showed up boxed really well. It's a nice quality pc, gives a good impression out of the box. I decided while I had it all apart to clean up the fans. So I took them apart. I cleaned all the bugs and road rash with Simple Green and then scrubbed them down with some 3M pads. Then I pained them white with some plastic adhesion spray paint. Reinstalled them. Still have some Natallica repro stickers left over from my restoration - so I figured it was time to bust these out too. Remounted them in the OEM locations. When I went to mount the fans I ran into some of my first issues. Each fan has 4 mount points, on each fan, only 2 of them matched up, the other 2 needed slight adjustment. Not bad, but just off by about a mm or two. I used a Dremel with a metal grinding bit to enlarge the radiator holes out a bit. After adjusting a few holes I got everything mounted up alright. Then I ran into the next issue. When I test fit it in the car, I had a vary similar issue withe mount tabs from CXRacing. I had to enlarge them just slightly to get the holes to line up there too. In this pic I had to enlarge the right hole a bit. Finally able to get it installed and mounted up. Fitment is definitely tight as others have said. Here's a pic of the distance between the fan blade and the water pump pulley. There's about an 1/8 inch clearance. Here it is from the front. All back together. I did have a little trouble with the OVCP, but after some "persuading", I got things to line up. So, overall, a pretty easy install. Not 100% plug and play. But, if you have any capabilities at all, it shouldn't be bad to overcome any fitment issues you might run into.

Up to 9100 now. It's a great color combo to this day, considering the year it was manufactured.

Cool that it's listed as a 1990 and has manual belts. Love it. Like the price too!

That's interesting. When I did my Euro tail light install i had to do some rewiring with the hazard and I always wondered why. I think I had to cut a wire. But, I was just following a guide, so I just proceeded. This makes sense though.

Agreed! Merry Christmas (1 day late) everyone!