BKB94

Thanks to TSI-Tom I got back the stock sway bar I gave him. Will try it tomorrow. Thanks

Not one to follow the rules I have been doing a lot of welding lately. So far I haven't passed out and poop myself after hours of mig welding. I'm sure my pacer tech is going to flip out on me once this data log gets sent into the manufacturer. 2 1/2 down pipes to 3" going into a flowmaster 40 Delta Flow #9430412. It was a bit of a rush job and the plan was to tig but I'm scared to try the tig unless someone is on site with me. The tail pipes are in place but not finished welding and coating. Click to here it idle https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-WQksT2k/0/01daae9b/1280/i-WQksT2k-1280.mp4 Went with the $13 EVO peddle covers, I like the look as long as they hold up. These are not direct fit, I cut new metal backing the same shape as the pedal covers.

Ford 5.0 swap. The ST bar is real close and if I hit a decent bump it will hit the oil pan. Tried to cold bend it with no luck. Might fire up the 60ton press and see if it can get me a little more room.

I assumed since I had tons of clearance with the stock sway bar a aftermarket sway bar would fit. I was wrong and gave away my stock sway bar. If you are close and have a spare let me know.

I had my open heart surgery the 3rd and was home a few days when I went into stage 3 heart block. Went back the next Sunday and Monday they put a pacemaker in me. Thats not something I ever planned for and has a huge impact on my hobbies and carrier. For example I can't do any kind of welding, I'm pretty sure my rotary phase converter in my barn puts out crazy EMI so no 3 phase power for the machine shop. Any my job I just see no way in hell I can do it. I need to collect data and see if this pacemaker is contributing to my life or just along for the ride. Once I have 3 months of data I can decide If I do all the things I'm not supposed to do or If I need to play nice with it. They already tuned it to be very numbed down but there is only so much they can do. The ultimate goal would be to have it removed if it's not needed. This might slow down the build quite a bit. Hell I just sneezed yesterday and re-broke my sternum, Thats not fun at all. I'm doing what I can with my 5lb lift capacity and trying to not think about the what ifs. I am out in the barn every single day and doing what I can to keep some forward momentum on this project.

My car is missing all the rubber pedal covers and I'm not seeing much listed. I can find some mity max stuff that says it cross references for brake and clutch but nothing for the gas pedal. I will not use universal covers that clamp the back of the pedal. Any one have any ideas?

Gauges TACH - So you put a V8 in your car and your tach reads 2x the RPM. I'm sure there are ways to correct this with a module but all it takes is a resistor. That circled resistor measures 15.2 ohms on my car ( I didn't even look at the bands to see the rated ohms ) I removed that resistor and soldered leads with a potentiometer to adjust the tach while reading true RPM with a contactless RPM meter. Dialed in the resistance till she read correct at 750, 2000, 3000 rpm ( no coolant in my motor so RPM limited ). I then measured that pot ( 27.5 ohms ) and soldered 2 resistors in series to add up to 27.5 ohms. If you are lazy and also putting a V8 in as you can see double the resistance will get you real close to half the RPM. This can be used to calibrate the factory tach or make it work with any piston engine you decide to install that reads off the coil - side. coolant temp - I'm using the stock 94-95 coolant temp sensor that ford seems to use on everything out there for decades. With no mods it reads 1/2 gauge @ 195'F, Im very happy with that since my T-stat is a 192'F . Oil Pressure - 94-95 5.0s use a pressure switch not a pressure sensor. If you hook these gauges to a switch that grounds the signal wire to ground it will destroy the gauge, it must go through a resistive load to reduce the current passed through the gauges windings. Using a Fox oil pressure sensor E4ZZ-9278-A tends to put the factory needle at the top with cold 5-30W at 80psi. I have not run the engine enough to get the oil hot but from mapping out the stock gauge it should be just below 1/2 gauge at 40psi where I expect my hot idle oil pressure to be. I might tweak this to my liking but as is it will work fine and uses the whole sweep of the gauge, something I like. Proper Ford 3G alternator charging - Like the factory Mitsubishi alternator the Ford requires a charge light bulb with a back up resistor incase the bulb burns out. This sends a low voltage back to the charging field coil, without this the alternator will not charge. The Mitsubishi resistor is mounted on that stupid relay cluster on the drivers side inner wheel well. Since I cut all the crap off the car I had to add the 550 ohm resistor to the back of the cluster. It's hiding under the shrink wrap from the battery bulb to the bottom side of the diode.

Only a few days till surgery and I wanted to hear it run, this was a rush job. My rockauto OEM ignition module was DOA so I'm running a old style that runs a fixed 10' timing with no EEC timing control. Because of this my first video was a no start with some cursing, I did smelled fuel so I knew something was working. Open headers with no O2s the intake is not tight, cobbled air intake, no coolant or belt. But she runs and I think all my factory gauges are working. This really got me excited to get things moving along. running

Everything in the land fill.

You need to take yours apart to see how the splines look. Many times its only one side that is bad but for me it's always been the torque tube side.

Bubble flare is the first step of a double flare. So you can do it with a std. double flare tool. The ford master cylinder I installed uses bubble flare and no issues with those.

running of brake lines I'm down to one leak and that is the passenger side front caliper that I had a defective brake line that was not chamfered. I need to order a new brake line and hope it didn't damage the receiving cone inside the caliper. ( autozone is now open till 11PM so I picked up my brake line and no more leaks ) My new E-brake cables are in and adjusted and the master cylinder is bleed and firm. I think it's nice and clean running the lines like this, also didn't take long to do. I guess next is Y-pipe and exhaust.

Well that fitting did not leak, but that was pretty hellaciousis. I guess some problems are to be expected when every part of the brake system is new or taken apart. Thats about 27 possible leaking joints. So to be clear it was double flare.

Well that statement is simply not true. Bubble uses a flat fitting on the tube to support the bubble and an inward taper on the receiving fitting. Where a double flare used a tube fitting with a bevel to support the flare on the tube and the receiving part has a cone for the flare to fit on to.

You are special aren’t you, haha. Bubble doesn’t inspire confidence in me for a good leak free connection. Well I looked at all the old brake lines I pulled off the car and they are all double flare. Also found a picture from Obsolete’s project and it’s double flare going in so I would expect the same coming out. I’m going to just roll with it and check for leaks. It’s in a bad location now between my steering shaft and the hydro boost and I would rather not inspect it. Going for brake fluid in a bit so I should know soon how bad I did.