BKB94

I spent a little time researching this and it just didn’t make sense for me. A ton of money for 250hp and maybe 50 mile distance. I was looking into the drop in power pack units. Not ready to DIY a concept that I don’t believe in.

$150 can load with tractor.

Thanks Obsolete, I see what you did to the steering column. I will probably come up with a easier solution but to be honest I haven't looked at it at all. Keeping busy has helped me keep it together that's for sure. I lost my father in law 3 years ago so I'm maintaining 3 large households in the country, got this job thing, and I'm the only male at a farm co-op so I have to fix everything and transport horses-food. So back to this stupid car. I rebuilt the whole HVAC system, I ordered a new heater core since people like to crush the lines at the firewall. It leaked so the old heater core went back in. The other line was pretty bad and cracked or was cracked I don't know I was gently tapping a mandrel in it to make it round again. I had to cut it off at the block and tap it for a NPT nipple. To be honest I'm a little scared of this coming back to haunt me. Also located the AC compressor on the passenger side of the engine. I could not find any other Ford engine that had the alternator and AC on the right side so I cut the lower part of the smog pump bracket and put the compressor where the smog pump was. Don't look to hard at this bracket I'm not a machinist and I made a huge mistake and actually had it flipped the wrong way during one of the cuts and something ended up being an inch the wrong way. Also mounted my radiator and have the mounts for the condenser made I just need to order a shorter condenser. Also started my hydroboost brake install and wilwood clutch slave is installed. Some say they use the quest trans bracket just flip and drill holes. That didn't work for me I think my engine is back a bit more then others possibly. ((( UPDATE ))) I found out the 93 T-5 Z transmission I bought is actually a beat to hell 94-95 V8 case filled with chipped gears and parts from many transmissions. I'm now taking 2 transmissions to try and make one usable one. It will not have the .68 overdrive I wanted unless I buy both OD gears. I'm frustrated and now a 15min speedo gear change is going to cost me $300 and probably a whole weekend.

You are seeing it in its current condition so I really don’t know. Plus I’m running rack and pinion with a 5.0, Your results might be significantly different. To mount it I used the aluminum spacer behind the factory booster. Made a plate 1/4 thick with 4 cap bolts with heads cut down welded to the plate. They act as studs like the factory booster had so it mounts to the firewall like factory. 1/4 plate was needed for proper spacing and has the large hole in the center to attach the hydro boost. The factory ford eyelit was cut off the push rod and the correct die was used for the quest eyelit. Hydro boost is upside down but many run them like that. They tend to run large master cylinders, I think I have a few from 1”-1.5”. With the extra hydraulic pressure you can run larger masters without increasing pedal effort. You can also use the 80s challenger booster think that takes you from 9”-8” booster then you can use your same leaking master cylinder.

Reasons 1. I had it laying around, 1999 mustang hydroboost and master cylinder 2. Every quest I have ever seen had the paint peeling off the frame. I have had fords my whole life back to my 67 mustang, owning many fords with 300K+ miles and never replaced a master cylinder or had paint peeling under a master. I want to keep that paint intact. 3. All calipers will soon be replaced with ford cobra units and this combo works really nice. 4. replace obsolete or soon to be obsolete parts with something I will be able to get for a few decades.

It's rare that I purchase something and feel I got something of quality or quananty for the price. Im actually pretty impressed with this wilwood master cylinder. 260-1-373 $99 on amazon. looking at both this and the Tilton 75 they seem to be the exact thing so I just went cheapest. It bolts right to the firewall no mods. You can remove the rod and install the quest rod but I think it will be a bit short. I tapped the quest clevis to 5/16 24 and was shocked how good the threads came out. I was also shocked how worn everything was, tons of lost motion. The pin was shot, clevis and clutch pedal wallowed out. Ended up making a oversized pin .430 and reaming everything out to fit it.

tilton 75 series uses 2.25" bolt pattern and that probably does fit the quest 2.160". I did find a few pictures with some measurements when used as a master cylinder for their brake pedal assemblies. About $100 so not bad to try it. 13/16 rings a bell so that's probably what ill order up.

Using the T-5 trans with a internal thunderbird SC T/O bearing I'm pretty sure I need a 3/4 or 7/8 master to get the travel needed. I was shocked that Willwood and Tilton does not give you any usable info on their site like mounting flange dimensions. I ran this combo from 1996 to around 2010 when I installed the TR6060 in my mustang. Unfortunately I can't remember what master cylinder size I was running originally. If im stuck with the quest 5/8 master I could always use a external slave cylinder.

B38 connector is your friend if you have it. We need pictures https://projectzerog.com/wiring-how_to.shtml

EEC harness is in the car, I feel this is a milestone. Ford uses a 40 amp fused relay for the solenoid starter, the quest passes all current threw the ignition switch. I added the fuse and relay feed off a ANL fuse box I added. I have the coolant gauge, fuel pump, oil pressure gauge, Tach signal all wired using the stock quest connectors and wiring ( plug and play ). I added wiring for the AC compressor wire and the ABS light used as a MIL light. I need to rebuild the blower, AC, Heater boxes and get them ready for install. I have the wiper motor wiring that needs to be cleaned up and run behind the dash. It will be getting a ground wire so the stupid ground clip doesn't need to be used. The wiring out the firewall is my engine and trans harness that I need to install the connector and bolt to the firewall. It will all look nice once everything is where it needs to be and mounted. Most of the electrical on this car is just plain stupid, the more I remove the better I feel.

Every part $20 each, NO SHIPPING Condensers Qty2 condenser fan Qty1 TESTED Liquid line from dryer to crossmember bolts Qty2 Gas Hard line from evaporator to firewall Qty1 Gas Hard line from firewall to compressor Qty2 Gas line from compressor to condenser Qty1

Tom, sent you my contact info.

Figured it's time for an update, one good thing about this site is you don't get pushed for progress. My dad passed away; this is something we were not expecting. The worst part for me is not really knowing why. We are the same in almost every way, I lost my helper, my mentor and my friend. Like me he had a garage full of projects that I'm now tasked to find good homes for. So not to go way off the deep end I have been ordering parts for the quest but did have a few weeks I simply cleaned the barn but could not wrench. Electrical. I see now why people say do not use the 94-95 mustang wiring harness. Its a pile of 7 harnesses all tangled together. Since I'm cheap and would never find something off the shelf to work the way I wanted I started to stipe it. I have the main harness simplified and its looking slim and clean. Next will be the harness on the engine. I would actually like to run EGR to reduce pumping losses but since it's all gone anyways and it's really ugly its wiring will be stripped out. I don't know why the trans harness and 02 harnesses are separate but they will be merged together using one connector. So in the end I will have 3 harnesses and the alternator wiring. I ordered ANL fuses and box to possible clean up the rats nest at the end of the conquest battery cable, any ideas let me know. I think adding one of the fused battery fittings would help clean up things a little and add protection. You can get them in all different amps for your alternator and under $40 on Amazon. I need to do more research on the fusable links ( ratings ) and what they are even powering anymore. The Ford harness will be fused with ANL fuses and powers the fuel pump, AC, 2 speed fan, 02s, So the quest wiring is basically lighting. AC. Ordered my barrier hose with fittings, dryer, condenser, trinary switch. All nice and new for R134 and laid out a lot cleaner than it was originally. Need to make my AC compressor mount for the passenger side of the car. Ford ECU will handle WOT AC cut out, Fans, and compressor AC cycling using all ford parts. Goal is a running car by the time it's nice enough to do body work. I need to get my dad's garage all cleaned up and build my paint booth over there.

I have 2 complete steering link set up's with a steering box going in the trash. Maybe one week left.