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GoldStar last won the day on March 10

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  1. If you just want a Mitsubishi-branded one, I feel like you should be able to get any mid-2000s blank key from a Mitsu dealer and have them cut it to match, unless even those don't have the diamonds on them anymore. Worst case scenario it'll have a little transponder inside, which won't affect anything.
  2. Right, do you also have a separate O2 sensor on the downpipe?
  3. To be clear, are you using your wideband's narrowband output as your ECU's O2 sensor input? I've heard people having problems doing this. Otherwise, it sounds to me like it's a vacuum leak somewhere. Kinda lines up with the A/C being on; more load on the engine=less vacuum to leak. I'd set the MAF-T to base and start spraying brake cleaner around the intake piping/vacuum lines while watching the wideband output to see if it spikes rich at any point. I had a similar issue that ended up being a 1G DSM recirc valve being set up like a blow-off valve; leaked vacuum when it got warm.
  4. I did the same with my 19c, but because they are kinda local to me. I've heard good things about Kinugawa in the Facebook groups.
  5. Can't speak for the manual belts, but MKS Motorsport has got a bunch of reproduction interior clips available: https://mksmotorsport.com/product-category/body/ Following for this, although once in a blue moon my lever actually works. Have you tried using the key?
  6. I did the same, but I didn't run a jumper wire. I can't speak for the stock fans, but my two aftermarket fans coming on at the same time maxed out the capacity of the stock alternator. I've upgraded to a 90 amp alternator to compensate. Cools quickly, though, they aren't on for long.
  7. Found it, page 7-17 where it shows how to check the thermosensors. In case you didn't know, the thermosensors are what actually provide the grounds for the fan motors. Looks like thermosensor 1 grounds at 185 degrees, and thermosensor 2 grounds at 212 degrees.
  8. MPI is Multi-port Fuel Injection. All of these cars shipped with throttle-body injection (TBI). It's the style of air intake, and considering your wording on your OP, you have a "Magna" MPI intake that still needs to be modified for starquest heads. Do you have any pictures of it? It's the thing that has "ECI MULTI" on it. MPI is one of the best modifications you can do for longevity, and is a requirement when running higher (I believe 20+ lbs) of boost, as cylinders 2&3 will lean out at that point on TBI. There is quite a bit involved, but it's not as involved/expensive as a swap. Since it's already apart, now's the best time to do it. The banjo bolts are what's used to connect the oil lines to the cooler; they are special bolts that allow fluids to pass through. The original turbos have them as well for the coolant pipes. I believe Dad has the AC delete bracket on his site: http://www.enginemachineservice.com/ems/index.php
  9. Welcome to the club. And echoing what Kev said; you're going to have a difficult time finding a good set of struts, whether SHP or non-SHP. Mitsubishi didn't put them in anything else IIRC. If they are really expensive ones like you stated in your other posts, they should be fully adjustable. I have a set of KSport coilovers which are, and I'm confident I could duplicate stock ride quality if I didn't lower mine so much. Since you already have the set, I highly recommend just adjusting them.
  10. Can confirm they are cheap and easy to replace the seals on. However, if you use the kit that Kev linked above, in my experience this plate will not work; you'll need to re-use the one you currently have:
  11. Looking at the 88 repair manual, and Holley's install instructions, it looks like it should work with our gauge fine; our stock sender ranges from 1-117 ohms, which is well within the limits of Holley's sender.
  12. Just ran into an ad for one of these, wonder if they fit our tanks without modification https://www.holley.com/products/gauges_and_gauge_accessories/gauge_accessories_and_harnesses/parts/19-250
  13. I believe I had the same trouble finding the "Standard VC269", so I ended up getting the following part from O'Reilly's: "Import Direct Ignition Distributor Vacuum Advance Control - 33-0156" I haven't dyno-tested my car so I'm not sure if I'm losing power over the VC269, but it sure beats the non-functional vacuum advance I had previously.
  14. Yeah it seems about 85-90% of these are on the east coast now
  15. It seems to fit fine from what little I played with it. I haven't done another alignment yet, so we'll truly see then.
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