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GoldStar

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GoldStar last won the day on September 6

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  • Location
    North Texas
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    76227
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Valencia Gold
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    Restoring

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  1. Alright, so I just finished doing this a second time, and the readings are a touch better across the board, even though I didn't do anything except drive it since the last test: Cyl 1: 12-10% leakage Cyl 2: 8-8% leakage Cyl 3: 17-17% leakage Cyl 4: 10-7% leakage For both tests on each cylinder, I did pressurize the coolant system per kev's suggestion, first test at 13 PSI then again at ~5 PSI for the second test. There was no drop or gain in coolant pressure during any leak down test, so I'm pretty confident my head gasket is in good order. I did listen for the leakage this time, and each time I heard it through the oil cap and rear valve cover port. I heard nothing through the intake or through my O2 sensor hole, so I believe the head/valves are in good order as well. I elected to not spray oil into the cylinders this time around because I feel it's a bit redundant with the known condition of the cylinder walls, but I do understand it's purpose had they been in good visible condition. I have plans for this engine, and one of them is definitely pistons/rings. If this pitting happened in my ownership, there's only one event that I think may have caused this. Back when I had idle issues, I had determined it was caused by the 1g DSM recirculating valve the PO had installed, but didn't have "crushed" for blow-off, so it was leaking vacuum at idle. At the time, I didn't know that they needed to be crushed; I just thought it was faulty. So, I just bought another used one in reportedly good condition, installed it, and went driving around DFW one day trying to find a body shop who would work on my Quest. I learned shortly into my drive that the new recirc valve had actually made things worse; my wideband was buried at 10:1 all time time, regardless of engine load. I was kinda pissed because I had looked damn near everywhere else trying to find the cause, so I just ran with it. I put about 100+ miles on the car that day, calculated I got about 9 MPG to that tank of gas when I filled up later. I'm wondering if running that rich for that long would have caused this.
  2. Yeah I've been kinda wanting to re-do the test because of the cylinder 3 reading. Even though I did it twice (hence the 19-21% range), I think both may have been faulty readings. Cylinder 4, the one I tested right after 3, was initially reading the same thing, but after I shut off the gauge to let my compressor repressurize, it started reading around 10% loss when I tested #4 again. I'll try again this weekend with a coolant system tester. Probably should have mentioned this off the bat, but I've got a non-jet valve head and the hydraulic rocker pills. I didn't hear any noise coming from the intake or exhaust, but admittedly I wasn't listening for it.
  3. He said it looked like detonation or coolant being burnt. There have been times where the car's run lean on me, but I don't think anywhere near enough to cause this kind of damage, especially with the 93 I put in it. As far as the coolant goes, ever since I sorted the coolant leaks, the fill level's been 100% steady, I never have to top it off. Not that I'm aware of, but I don't have very much info about the car's history. Going off of the VIN history, it seems to have a legitimate 163k mileage reading on the odometer. The only time I think it may have sat would have been during the alleged engine rebuild that was 20k miles/10+ years ago.
  4. Pretty sure it's always humid here by Arizona standards. I drive mine to work about 1-2 times a week, nearly 80 miles a day when I do. If it's sitting for any period of time, it's in a garage.
  5. I've already talked to Dad about this a bit, posting here for a wider audience and to possibly help anyone else who may run into this. In my quest to determine why my intercooler keeps collecting oil, I decided this weekend to do a cylinder leak down test. Prior to doing this, however, I decided to get my borescope and take some pictures of the cylinders while I had the spark plugs out. Lo and behold, it appears I have found the cause. Cylinder 1: Cylinder 2: Cylinder 3: Cylinder 4: Because I was already most of the way there, I decided to go ahead with the leak down test, here are my findings: Cyl 1: 12-14% leakage Cyl 2: 7-10% leakage Cyl 3: 19-21% leakage Cyl 4: 7-10% leakage Other than all the smoke it produces on start up, my Quest seems to run about as good as I'd expect a large 4 cylinder from the 80s would. I was already planning to go through this engine prior to the test, as it's history is very unknown, but this does solidify my plans. My question is, what could have cause this damage? I have a few theories on what I have done which may have caused this, but I'd like to hear what you all have to say before I start beating myself up
  6. When it's ready to go back on, you can get reproduction hinge bushings from Schiemann Composites/Kyle Schiemann, in case you weren't aware. Not sure how many he has right now, but I got a set from him back in February. Now I can actually adjust the hatch to get all of the spoiler pieces flush.
  7. I think the main point of multiple fans isn't necessarily the combined CFM, but instead maximizing the surface area of the radiator that's getting airflow when they are running, when compared to a single fan. With that being said, I hear early Starquests came with single viscous clutch fans that reportedly cooled better than the later dual electric ones.
  8. Welcome back. Enjoy your second chance, lol
  9. So it appears the PO of my quest actually did install the wrong actuator. I got another single-port actuator from Starquestparts, and it reaches both bolt holes fine. Here's a picture, the one on the right was the one that came with the car. I wonder if it's off of an Evo or a DSM
  10. I presume you mean http://www.mookeeh.com/index.html Mookeeh recently had a bushing for his short throw shifter on Ebay, but I'm not seeing it now. While MKS Motorsport doesn't have a separate listing for a shifter bushing, I bet if you hit up Mikie he'll hook you up with the one he uses for his STS kit. Not sure if it'll fit what you got, but it's worth a shot.
  11. One bolt has been holding it fine since I got the car. I was just curious if Mitsubishi really bothered to change the compressor housings between the years, or if I've just legitimately had the wrong actuator this whole time
  12. Got a quick question. I know the 88-89 wastegates have 3 port vs the 87 and earlier single port wastegates. My question is in regards to their bolt holes. Are they interchangable, or did the compressor housing change between 87 and 88-89? I have a single port wastegate on mine, but I can only attach it with one bolt hole on the compressor housing; it's too short to reach both.
  13. The Wayback Machine/Internet Archive has a bunch of those S.O.S manuals, here's the link to the one in the picture: https://web.archive.org/web/20160401031840/http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=902&sid=48f0787d061e7ca378e9ef28fc27748d Here's a link to the last capture they have of all the manuals: https://web.archive.org/web/20160819145300/http://starquest.i-x.net/viewforum.php?f=12&sid=087222b851334bf9ab9c27e27125aaa7
  14. Including my experience for reference. For those of you closer to the west coast, I went with RC Engineering: https://www.rcfuelinjection.com/. They did a fantastic job with my Delphi/Trilogy injectors.
  15. Thought I'd update this with the steps for us normal computer users, too: Log into/create an account here: https://imgur.com/ From your profile icon at the top, go to Images Drag and drop your images, or copy/paste them Finally, click the image(s) you just uploaded, then copy the Direct Link (the one containing the file extension) to paste here For videos, the steps as of writing are a bit different: From your profile icon/section at the top, go to your Posts Just like with images, click+drag your video onto the page, but you will get prompted to either keep or strip the audio. Click to keep the audio (if desired) to continue If you try to do this from the Images page, it will automatically remove the audio without giving you a prompt In my experience using Firefox on Windows, Imgur sometimes won't tell you when the video has finished uploading. The upload time varies based on the file size and your internet, obviously. If you aren't sure it has completed, give it a couple of minutes, then refresh the page to see if your video is there. Once it's done, open the video if it isn't already. If you kept the audio, there should be a speaker icon somewhere. Click that to unmute the video and verify it has audio Next, right-click the video, then click Copy Video Link to get the direct link Alternatively, you can go to you Images as outlined above to copy the Direct Link You should be able to paste the link into your post now like so, but as of writing, it will not be embedded: https://i.imgur.com/viR5zjF.mp4
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