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admin_JAinsworth last won the day on May 5

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About admin_JAinsworth

  • Birthday October 28

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  1. I'll ask him. It was mentioned in the past to Bob but nothing came of it. He now hosts the site from his house after investing in what was needed to do it. The outside host is what screwed us on our lost information by shutting down without proper notice. I'm with you about contributing for the costs of maintaining without ads. Jimmy
  2. To post pictures all you have to do is drag the picture to your post. Jimmy
  3. Here is a post from Mike_C that I saved on Headlights: From Mike: First, check fuse #1 (top/left corner) since it feeds power to the headlight relay. Make sure it's contacts are good too. I think it feeds the dome light and interior lights too so if they work this probably isn't it. Fuse 9 also gets involved so check it as well. The headlight "fuse" is really a fusible link - look for a green link on the end of the fusible link box by the ignition coil. The links are those little loops of wire for those that don't know - they are a special wire and their diameter determines the amp rating - don't replace them with generic wire! Check the contacts on this link and look for any signs of burning/melting in the insulation. Relay A44X controls the headlamps themselves... if you remove the battery and the metal plate between it and the fender you'll see a pile of relays. A44X is the 3rd relay back from the front of the car, on the row of relays closer to the engine. It should be one of the smaller relays. Swap it with the one next to it and see if your headlights come alive while your taillights crap out. Try this: check your "flash to pass" function by pulling the stalk towards you with the headlights off. The pop-ups should raise, the lights should go on for a moment, and a few seconds later the pop-ups should return closed. The flash to pass-pass has its own relay that must be CLOSED for the normal headlights to work; if this relay fails relay A44X won't operate. It's the relay mounted to the firewall by the brake master cylinder. Unplug it and look for a direct short on the relay pins that line up with wiring harness wires blue+white and blue+yellow. A relay is made of two parts: an electromagnet coil that pulls on a "wiper" arm for the switch. When the relay clicks you know the electromagnet is moving the wiper a bit - and that the stuff controlling the relay is working... but is the wiper moving far enough to touch the other contacts? Are the contacts clean and making good connections - if the relay switches high current (like headlight relays do) it's typical for some arcing to happen. This slowly burns the contacts away and/or causes deposits which don't conduct very well. That's why I suggested swapping with a similar relay as an easy test. Trace the wires to the appropriate pins, then unplug the relay and use an ohmmeter to verify zero ohms between the two relay pins. This tests two of the three contacts of the relay wiper part. Before you spend money on the passing relay, try this: unplug the relay. Use a jumper wire to connect the blue+white to the blue+yellow harness wires. This simulates the passing relay in it's normal position. The headlights ought to work now if the passing relay was the bug. Can you feel relay A44X click when the headlights are turned on/off? That's one way to isolate the problem - we can cut the headlight circuit in half depending on your answer. If it clicks, then the headlight switch, passing relay, fuses, etc. are working because the relay is getting its signal. The problem is the fusible link, wiring to the headlamps, or their ground. Look at the ground wire attached to the passenger strut bodywork; the wire should be on the front side of the bodywork (near the airbox). Yes, the ground ought to be screwed to the engine-bay body work that surrounds the suspension upright.
  4. Paul, Contact me concerning your account. Email: jainsworthster@gmail.com or text at 4788323864. Jimmy
  5. I update the pictures in my original thread about this procedure. I couldn't find all the pictures but there is one of the pins to push out to take it apart. Do it on a towel or something similar and watch out for the small springs. Jimmy
  6. Here is a write-up from Mike_C: . The O/D is controlled by a relay; the relay has to be ON to allow O/D. The relay is turned ON by a combination of 2 things: * O/D switch on the shift lever has to be in O/D enable/on position * Temp sensor switch in engine coolant has to "see" some warmth in the coolant; O/D is disabled until the engine is warmed up a bit. So what causes the problems? Typically a combination of two things: 1: Temp sensor going bad - it's supposed to be an ON/OFF switch but when it ages it builds up resistance in the ON position. That starves the relay of working voltage. 2: poor wiring/connectors/fusible links in the IGN circuit. The IGN circuit powers EVERYTHING turned on/off by the ignition key. Bad connections rob voltage in this circuit... This circuit feeds your dash guages, the turn signals, and the O/D relay among other things. Ever notice how your voltmeter "dances" in sync with the high-amperage turn signals? You're seeing the effects of long, old wires, bad connections, etc. To fix: 1: disconnect the battery for safety, key OUT of the ignition 2: In the fusible link box (those wire loops between the battery and ignition coil) remove the links one by one. Clean the contacts on the box and on the link. Test each link with an ohmmeter; if they show more than a couple tenths of an ohm resistance replace that link with a dealer part. They're not expensive and will cure LOTS of problems. 3: Follow the wires to/from the fusible link box to some connectors in that area. Undo them one by one and clean them as well. Auto parts stores sell a spray electrical parts cleaner that works well. Don't use spray carb or brake cleaner... they'll disolve the plastic connectors. 4: check or just replace the temp sensor. Look for a temp sensor with a yellow+green wire feeding it. On the 87-later cars it'll be near the thermostat housing. Probably the same for earlier cars but I don't know for sure. To test the sensor: warm up the engine, then shut it down. Disconnect the wire going to the sensor. If the tang is loose or twists around, the sensor has disintegrated and is shot. Otherwise, use an ohmmeter to probe from the threaded nut portion of the sensor to the tang; it should read zero ohms. I'll bet yours reads several ohms. Drain a little coolant out of the system before removing the sensor! As a short-term workaround, you can unplug the sensor connector and just ground the wire. That'll enable O/D at all times - warm or cold engine. Use the switch on the shift lever to disable O/D until the engine warms up a bit. mike c.
  7. You need to post price and location. Jimmy
  8. This is a write-up by Mike_C Injectors not firing Is the tach moving too - just "having spark" isn't enough. If the tach is wiggling though then the signal wire from the ignition coil to the ECU & tach is working. Without that wire the ECU won't command fuel. It wants to verify ignition is present before it will flow fuel - this is a safety thing in case the car was in a wreck... don't want fuel being sprayed when the fuel lines, injectors, etc. could be busted wide open. To command the injectors, the ECU: * needs to see the signal from the ignition coil "-" post; this is the tach signal I just described. * wants to see pulses from the airflow sensor. The airflow sensor (aka "MAS" or "AFS") is the single most important input to the ECU for the fuel calculations; all of the other engine sensors just add or subtract from the AFS based value. * ECI fusible link must be intact. This powers the fuel pump, injectors, etc. * ECI relay (actually 2 relays in one housing) powers the fuel system and fuel pump. The ECU "holds" the fuel pump side ON as long as the ECU sees those ignition pulses ("engine is still running, go ahead and send power to the fuel pump..."); the ignition key START position also trips this relay to power the pump while you're trying to start. Some simple tests: 1: verify the tachometer wiggles. If not, find out what's wrong with the ignition system or your wiring. The wire from the coil "-" post to the tach and ECU is a skinny coax cable (skinny cable TV wire: a wire inside a braided shield, then encased in rubber) and it's possible for the inner conductor to short out to the shield if the wire is pinched, crushed, or bent tightly. Often it gets shorted right at the ECU connector. There are TWO of these shielded coax wires at the ECU - one is for the ignition, one is for the oxygen sensor. If you hook up an air/fuel guage to the wrong one you could screw things up. 2: Look for basic power to the injector while cranking: using a voltmeter red/positive lead probe either injector wire on the primary injector (the one closer to the fender on 87-later cars, or just pick either injector on earlier cars) and ground the voltmeter's black/negative lead. Now try starting... you should see 10 to 12 volts. No? Try the other post on that injector. Still no 12 volts? Then your ECI fusible link is shot, the ECI relay isn't ON, wiring is bad, or the ballast resistor is shot. The ballast is the silver prism-shaped thing bolted to the bulkhead between the air filter and passenger side headlight. +12volts goes in one wire, the resistor is actually two resistors that split this +12volt line... each resistor feeds one injector. Bad resistor = no power to injector. 3: Hook a noid light to the primary injector - the one closer to the driver side fender. It should pulse/blink if the ECU is completing the ground to fire the injector. mike c.
  9. I adjusted your ranking. You should be able to post in VM forum now. Jimmy
  10. Save the image to your desktop and drag to post. Jimmy
  11. Your old account is still here. I can combine the two if you want me to. Welcome back. Jimmy
  12. It is owned by Bob Price aka Ryddler and always has been. Jimmy
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