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admin_JAinsworth

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admin_JAinsworth last won the day on November 8 2024

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About admin_JAinsworth

  • Birthday October 28

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  • Location
    Lizella GA
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    31052
  • Model
    Starion
  • Type
    ESI-R
  • Model Year
    1988
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Grace Silver
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. Accounts have been merged and status upgraded from Newbie. Jimmy
  2. It may be a long shot but there is a large connector located under the battery. Make sure it is making a good connecton. I've had a similar issue and that was the culprit. I wish I could describe the location better. Jimmy
  3. I can merge this account with Fish Fingers if you want me to. Just let me know which one you would like to keep. Jimmy Ainsworth
  4. He is Steve Sutherland on Facebook. Jimmy
  5. Here is a write-up from Mike_C that I saved on headlights: First, check fuse #1 (top/left corner) since it feeds power to the headlight relay. Make sure it's contacts are good too. I think it feeds the dome light and interior lights too so if they work this probably isn't it. Fuse 9 also gets involved so check it as well. The headlight "fuse" is really a fusible link - look for a green link on the end of the fusible link box by the ignition coil. The links are those little loops of wire for those that don't know - they are a special wire and their diameter determines the amp rating - don't replace them with generic wire! Check the contacts on this link and look for any signs of burning/melting in the insulation. Relay A44X controls the headlamps themselves... if you remove the battery and the metal plate between it and the fender you'll see a pile of relays. A44X is the 3rd relay back from the front of the car, on the row of relays closer to the engine. It should be one of the smaller relays. Swap it with the one next to it and see if your headlights come alive while your taillights crap out. Try this: check your "flash to pass" function by pulling the stalk towards you with the headlights off. The pop-ups should raise, the lights should go on for a moment, and a few seconds later the pop-ups should return closed. The flash to pass-pass has its own relay that must be CLOSED for the normal headlights to work; if this relay fails relay A44X won't operate. It's the relay mounted to the firewall by the brake master cylinder. Unplug it and look for a direct short on the relay pins that line up with wiring harness wires blue+white and blue+yellow. A relay is made of two parts: an electromagnet coil that pulls on a "wiper" arm for the switch. When the relay clicks you know the electromagnet is moving the wiper a bit - and that the stuff controlling the relay is working... but is the wiper moving far enough to touch the other contacts? Are the contacts clean and making good connections - if the relay switches high current (like headlight relays do) it's typical for some arcing to happen. This slowly burns the contacts away and/or causes deposits which don't conduct very well. That's why I suggested swapping with a similar relay as an easy test. Trace the wires to the appropriate pins, then unplug the relay and use an ohmmeter to verify zero ohms between the two relay pins. This tests two of the three contacts of the relay wiper part. Before you spend money on the passing relay, try this: unplug the relay. Use a jumper wire to connect the blue+white to the blue+yellow harness wires. This simulates the passing relay in it's normal position. The headlights ought to work now if the passing relay was the bug. Can you feel relay A44X click when the headlights are turned on/off? That's one way to isolate the problem - we can cut the headlight circuit in half depending on your answer. If it clicks, then the headlight switch, passing relay, fuses, etc. are working because the relay is getting its signal. The problem is the fusible link, wiring to the headlamps, or their ground. Look at the ground wire attached to the passenger strut bodywork; the wire should be on the front side of the bodywork (near the airbox). Yes, the ground ought to be screwed to the engine-bay body work that surrounds the suspension upright.
  6. Checkt the ground wire attached to the passenger strut bodywork; the wire should be on the front side of the bodywork (near the airbox). The ground ought to be screwed to the engine-bay body work that surrounds the suspension upright. Jimmy
  7. The Diagram file:///C:\Users\Jimmy\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.jpg The list of ports (22 in all) 1. Vacuum Retard Diaphram (directly on top of the distributor) 2. Top Port on the TB, right where the OVCP meets the TB 3. Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (black box on the drivers side of the VC) 4. Thermo Valve (2 ports) 5. EGR (3 ports) 6. SACA Solenoids (5 ports) 7. Main Vacuum source (3 ports) 8. Bottom port, this feeds the vac storage, cruise, and runs to the vac pump in front 9. Vacuum Storage (not pictured), mounted to the side of the shock tower 10. Cruise Control (not pictured), mounted to the front of the shock tower 11. Vacuum pump (not pictured), mounted right beside the drivers headlight 12. Purge Control Valve (2 ports), directly under the aircan Now, depending on what you're wanting to do with your car, your position on the environment, and whether or not you need a smog test to get a state inspection, it's possible to remove some of the vacuum lines and clean up the engine bay a LOT. For a pure race car you'd probably just need 1 stock line (slightly relocated), that'd be a line running from the top of the TB (labeled #2), to the Vacuum Retard Diaphram (labeled #1), this is the only line that is an absolute necessity. However, if you want, for example, your inside head & foot vents to work properly, you'll need to keep the line running from the bottom of the TB (labeled #8 ) going to the Vacuum Storage canister (labeled #9) (+ the single, small vacuum line running from it's nearest "T" into the firewall [not pictured or labeled]). Since this comes up frequently I'll address it here, the vac port you use for a BOV is labeled Main Vacuum Source (#7), you'll use the one closest to the firewall if you're looking at it from the drivers side fender. If you need a smog test to pass a state inspection you'll probably need to keep everything, each vacuum assisted item has its place. If you've removed the catalytic converters you won't be needing the Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (labeled #3), it supplies fresh air to the catalysts.
  8. starquestgarage.com works for me. Maybe try clearing your cache? Jimmy
  9. Electrical Manual http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_manual_-_group_26_-_electrical.pdf
  10. I'll contact Ryddler and see what he has to say about why the size limit and if he can increase it. Be patient, it may take a couple of days. Jimmy
  11. Most of my pictures are in the 250-300 kb range. This one is 73kb. Maybe resize your pictures?
  12. All you have to do is drag and drop the photo.. Jimmy
  13. I'll ask him. It was mentioned in the past to Bob but nothing came of it. He now hosts the site from his house after investing in what was needed to do it. The outside host is what screwed us on our lost information by shutting down without proper notice. I'm with you about contributing for the costs of maintaining without ads. Jimmy
  14. To post pictures all you have to do is drag the picture to your post. Jimmy
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