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admin_JAinsworth

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About admin_JAinsworth

  • Birthday October 28

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  • Location
    Lizella GA
  • Gender
    Male

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  • Zip Code
    31052
  • Model
    Starion
  • Type
    ESI-R
  • Model Year
    1988
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Grace Silver
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. I’m working on admiring starquest in pigeon forge right now. Does that count 😀
  2. Bill, I’m out of town right now. I’ll look into it when I get a chance. Maybe choose edit then full editor.
  3. Here's a couple of write-ups on troubleshooting the a/c. Most was written by Mike_c. A/C diagnostic connector is a small 2-wire connector hanging under the dash. Generally it's taped to the wiring harness behind the stereo: * Remove the passenger side "knee panel" (under-dash panel); don't bust the sensor clipped to this panel. * Remove the carpet/trim panel on the side of the stereo console. Look at the back corner area of that carpet/trim panel for a couple 2-wire connectors - one goes to the sensor on the knee panel; next to is the diagnostic port. It'll have green and black wires. The glove box connector (where the ECU diagnostic port is) also has a pin for the a/c: PPkkPPP PPPPPGP "P" is a spot for a pin - may or may not be used, "k" are the two empty spots that "key" the connector, and "G" is the green diagnostic wire. Typical a/c problems: * on the thermostat housing there is a small temp on/off switch; this sensor should read 0 ohms to ground on a cold or warm engine. On an overheating engine it'll read infinite ohms. This sensor fails regularly (infinite ohms) killing the compressor. You can just ground the wire going to it as a test - a yellow+white wire. * Dual pressure switch - one of the sensors in the refrigerant lines near the receiver/dryer. This thing senses too little refrigerant pressure before letting the compressor run (if the "resting" refrigerant pressure is too low the won't be any oil for the compressor; this switch prevents the compressor from running in that condition). It also senses too much pressure and kills the compressor before a/c hoses explode. It's rare for this switch to fail, you can unplug the connector and jumper the wiring harness though to simulate a normal sensor: green+yellow and green+white wires. * Inside the evaporator box (under-dash box that actually cools the air) is a temp sensor that the a/c computer uses to prevent freeze-ups. If this sensor reads too much resistance, the computer thinks the air is colder than it really is and the compressor gets turned off. Look for yellow+blue and red+green wires (coming from the big black plastic box; the connector will be near the diagnostic connector actually), unplug the connector. Using an ohmmeter, measure the sensor resistance: it should read about 1000 ohms on an 86 degree day; about 5000 ohms on a 50 degree day. If the resistance is above 5000 ohms the a/c computer will be thinking "very cold air, don't need the compressor." Have you looked for error codes from the a/c computer - it's in a 2-pin connector in the wire bundle near the stereo & passenger knee panel. It's often confused for the knee panel temp sensor connector by the way; it should have a green and a black wire. If the a/c computer is "happy" you'll have a constantly flashing/blinking 12volts-0volts-12volts cycle. Otherwise it'll spit codes. I'd also put a voltmeter on the a/c condensor relay coil wires and see if the computer is trying to turn it on at all... lately I've seen a couple that only spit out 3 volts or so... rather than 12. Bad a/c ECU. Otherwise you've already covered the usual suspects. The a/c ECU, relay, and fuse #7 are about all that is left. A/C compressor is affected by a couple thermoswitches and the pressure switches: * the small 1-prong thermoswitch on the thermostat housing itself is the GROUND for the compressor relay. This temp sensor often goes bad. Easy test: disconnect the wire going to it and ground the wire instead. If the compressor runs properly, the sensor is shot. It's supposed to be an on/off switch - not a variable resistance sensor like the sensor feeding the dash temp gauge. On an engine that is NOT overheating, the sensor prong is shorted to ground (so the compressor relay and compressor work normally). On an overheating engine, the sensor "opens" killing the a/c compressor. Usually this sensor rots internally and NEVER completes the ground (often you can rotate the connector tang when this happens) so the a/c compressor never turns ON at all. A rapidly cycling compressor usually isn't caused by this switch - that'd be a funky failure mode for this switch/sensor. * teeny thermosensor wedged against the evaporator underneath the dash. The a/c computer uses this sensor to monitor the refrigerated air temps; mostly making sure it doesn't get cold enough to start ice formation. Also, when the a/c system is working correctly on AUTO, you'll notice the fan doesn't run at full speed until the air gets cold... this temp sensor feeds the a/c computer that info. To replace this sensor, you have to drain the a/c refrigerant and remove the evaporator box from underneath the dash... not fun. It's resistance CAN be checked though easily; it's a simple two-wire connector coming from the evap box. Unplug the connector and stick an ohmmeter on it. An overcharged system will result in too-cold air temps causing the computer to cycle the compressor more often. * refrigerant "dual pressure switch" that kills the compressor if the refrigerant pressure is too low (no refrigerant or most has leaked out) or too high (about to burst the a/c hoses because of too much refrigerant, problems with the fans on the front of the car, front radiators blocked with dirt/leaves, etc). Typical dash vent temps (center vents) are around 50 to 54 degrees on a working R134a converted StarQuest a/c. mike
  4. If you are still looking for fusible links hit "Dad" aka Randy Gains up. Goes by Dad on this site and Randy Gains on Facebook. Jimmy
  5. Welcome back. You have to have 10 posts to before you can post in some Forums. I've adjusted your count. Let me know if that took care of it for you. Jimmy
  6. I'm retired but work my butt off almost every day. It is good to know that if I want to take a day off and eat bonbons I can though. Jimmy
  7. Once the whole country got "sue" happy the liability was too high. I think there is only one within a couple hours of me now. Jimmy
  8. Kev. That sucks. I've rebuilt a few and never bothered to magnaflux any of them. I was just lucky. I did rebuild my motor in a 240Z I had and regretted not having it done. It ran about 5 minutes before I realized it. A wasted rebuild but it happens. Jimmy
  9. The ISC is probably bad. Try unplugging it after it warms up and starts surging. Jimmy
  10. Provided by: DAD - AKA Randy I found a company in New york that rebuilds fuel pump sending units and pick up tubes. I sent a fellow Quest member to them and asked for him to let me know if they fixed him up. Just got an email that he had his rebuilt. and working fine. His cost was $135.00, They will give you a price on it before repairing after they look at it. Website is http://tristarrradiator.com Tri star Radiator 1452 St. Rte 89\ Seneca Falls NY, 13148 Phone 315-712-0071 If you use them , please post up your results. Dad
  11. Information provided by: techboy Your car is about 30 years old now and most likely has had a handful of owners. If you're anything like me, you have very little history to go on, esp. as it relates to basic maintenance. So, if you haven't, maybe it's time to change the fluid in your rear diff. If you changed your own oil before, it's not too much harder than that, just a little bit more difficult b/c you don't have an easy access fill in your trunk like you would your engine oil in the engine bay. Let's get started: First, if you don't have access to a lift you need to jack up the rear of your car nice and high. It's going to probably end up being a bit of a messy (and smelly) job, so you might want to throw down some cardboard if you have any, esp. if you care at all about your garage floor. My metrics only go up to a 22mm and that wasn't big enough, so I had find a standard that fit the drain and fill plug. A 15/16 seemed to be the perfect fit. Now let's find the drain and fill. The drain is smack right on the bottom of the diff here: The fill is up a bit further on the drivers side of the car here: file:///C:/Users/Jimmy/Desktop/Way%20Back%20Machine/v2/800x600q90/922/GqKi8R.jpg Because I was curious about whether or not my diff was even filled to proper level, I decided to crack the fill plug first. To my surprise, it actually was as I got a little bit of seepage once I cracked the bolt. Now that I knew that, it was time to throw a pan under and drain the old fluid. While the fluid was draining I thought it was a good time to clean up the two plugs a bit. The one with the magnet on the left is your drain plug and will probably have some heavy gunk on the magnet, you can go ahead and clean that up. The one on the right is the fill plug. I ran both of the them on the wire wheel to clean them up. Be careful of the copper crush washers found on both of the plugs. I cleaned both the washers up real good with some brake clean. If you have a store of copper washers laying around and have some that fit, using new ones probably isn't a bad idea. I didn't realize they were copper until I had the plugs out and didn't have the time luxury to buy new ones, so I reused the originals. Don't try that will coolant lines or fuel though, usually doesn't work. Once all the fluid has drained out you can put your drain plug back in with your 15/16th and get ready to go back the other way. First thing I did was find one of the smaller funnels I had and rigged up about a 6 inch feed tube with some extra hose I had laying around in the garage. I also cut myself a small piece of a wire tie .. more on that in a minute. There's not a ton of room under the car to refill your diff easily, but it can be done. I wedged my funnel up under the car like so, and used the wire tie to hold the funnel to the brake line right near the rear splitter. Here's another look at it from a slightly different angle, looking a bit more toward the drivers side rear tire. You can see there's a pretty good amount of room in the area in the red to get your hand up in there an pour. If I were to do it again, I might try taking the drivers side rear tire off and use a longer hose on my funnel ... might be easier ... not sure. At this point I stole a small plastic container from the kitchen, about the size of a baby food jar to use to pour the fluid into the funnel since I determined there was no way I was gonna get a whole diff fluid bottle in there. I'm not gonna discuss in this thread what oil to use, what's good, and what's not. If you're looking at this I'm assuming you've already done that homework and probably have already purchased whatever it is you're using. If not, there's lots of good threads you can read up using the search button. The FSM calls for a 80W-90, I can tell you that much. Depending on what threads you read and what oil you choose to go with, you might need/want to purchase an LSD additive as well. Almost done. It took me a little bit, but I just kept filling the little cup and pouring it in slowly. You need about 1.3 quarts so you won't quite use 1/2 the 2nd bottle. Just keep filling till it starts coming out the fill hole. Put your fill plug back in and tighten it down snug. You can also sneak one last look at your drain plug too while you're under there. Make sure you don't see any weeping now that you've got fluid back in the diff, esp if you reused the copper crush washer. One last thing, I took a can of brake cleaner and sprayed the whole diff down and cleaned it up real good so I could keep an eye out for any future weeping or leaks. If all goes well, it should look something like this when your done. Clean up, put your car back down on the ground and go for a test drive.
  12. This is an old thread recovered from the archives. I'll be posting more from the archives as I can. Jimmy Provided by: Burton 1983 MITSUBISHI STARION 6297 1984 MITSUBISHI STARION 5557 1985 MITSUBISHI STARION 6067 1985 PLYMOUTH CONQUEST 2500 1985 DODGE CONQUEST 2502 1986 DODGE CONQUEST 2791 1986 PLYMOUTH CONQUEST 2653 1986 MITSUBISHI STARION 5532 1987 MITSUBISHI STARION 6845 1987 CHRYSLER CONQUEST 15014 1988 MITSUBISHI STARION 3945 1988 CHRYSLER CONQUEST 9581 1989 MITSUBISHI STARION 159 1989 CHRYSLER CONQUEST 4953 Info from NHTSA, and only applies to SQ's brought into the US. There were many more built, but they went to other countries.
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