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admin_JAinsworth last won the day on January 15

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About admin_JAinsworth

  • Birthday October 28

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    Lizella GA
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  1. I had battery drain with an 89. Removed the ETACS, cleaned the metal on the floor when it sat, cleaned the contact points where the connector plugged in, and the battery drain stopped. Jimmy
  2. Same story as in the past. Some want to keep it at Vacation Lodge on or about the 4th of July and some want to move the date and location. I know there are some OGs who can't get off work before that weekend due to the work load on their job so that should be a consideration to not make it any earlier. Some want to spend the fourth with family and friends and not come on that weekend. I forget the second location suggested last year but maybe we give it a try. We have tried other locations but always seem to come back to VL. There is a lot to say about the convenience of being close to a lot of activity that is available near Vacation Lodge. Personally I can make any weekend with no work restrictions and don't care about the location as much as I care about seeing the people. Y'all decide, I'll be there. Jimmy
  3. 1988 Service Manual online at: http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_nav.html Jimmy
  4. From Jess N. This is a list of all the bulbs on our cars. I did this to help fellow starquesters who want to upgrade to full LEDs Like I have. It does have benefits, less strain on the electric system and I have almost eliminated the blinker voltage drop with this as well. Plus LEDs are brighter and more bad tail. I Wish one was made up before I was doing this, it makes it much easier when buying so you don't buy incorrect bulbs. Hopefully helps anyone who wants to use it. *******ALSO I USE ONLY "3030" SIZED LEDS They are brighter and use less amps then a lot of the others out there currently******
  5. StarQuest Light Bulb Size Chart Headlamp Bulb Size: H6054, or convert to H4 Parking Light Bulb Size: 168 , 906 Fog Light Bulb Size: Type 35 dual post, G4, or H3 style Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 1156 Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 1157 Tail Light Bulb Size: 1157 Third Brake Light: 921 Stop Light Bulb Size: 1157 License Plate Light Bulb Size: 67 Back Up Light Bulb Size: 1156 Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 194 Rear Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 67 Ash Tray Light Bulb Size: 74 Glove box Bulb Size: 158 Door Lights: 27mm Festoon bulb Dome Light: 27mm Festoon Bulb Instrument-General Light Bulb Size: 194 or 74 Brake Warning Light Bulb Size: 74
  6. Freebird picked it up. I didn't feel like I am able to do it justice. It went to a good home. Jimmy
  7. Access is denied until you reach a certain post count and reputation. I've modified yours so you can reply to your topics. Jimmy
  8. It may have been Anthony Vernon (on Facebook). Jimmy
  9. I retired at 55. Getting the most out of mine.
  10. I’m working on admiring starquest in pigeon forge right now. Does that count 😀
  11. Bill, I’m out of town right now. I’ll look into it when I get a chance. Maybe choose edit then full editor.
  12. Here's a couple of write-ups on troubleshooting the a/c. Most was written by Mike_c. A/C diagnostic connector is a small 2-wire connector hanging under the dash. Generally it's taped to the wiring harness behind the stereo: * Remove the passenger side "knee panel" (under-dash panel); don't bust the sensor clipped to this panel. * Remove the carpet/trim panel on the side of the stereo console. Look at the back corner area of that carpet/trim panel for a couple 2-wire connectors - one goes to the sensor on the knee panel; next to is the diagnostic port. It'll have green and black wires. The glove box connector (where the ECU diagnostic port is) also has a pin for the a/c: PPkkPPP PPPPPGP "P" is a spot for a pin - may or may not be used, "k" are the two empty spots that "key" the connector, and "G" is the green diagnostic wire. Typical a/c problems: * on the thermostat housing there is a small temp on/off switch; this sensor should read 0 ohms to ground on a cold or warm engine. On an overheating engine it'll read infinite ohms. This sensor fails regularly (infinite ohms) killing the compressor. You can just ground the wire going to it as a test - a yellow+white wire. * Dual pressure switch - one of the sensors in the refrigerant lines near the receiver/dryer. This thing senses too little refrigerant pressure before letting the compressor run (if the "resting" refrigerant pressure is too low the won't be any oil for the compressor; this switch prevents the compressor from running in that condition). It also senses too much pressure and kills the compressor before a/c hoses explode. It's rare for this switch to fail, you can unplug the connector and jumper the wiring harness though to simulate a normal sensor: green+yellow and green+white wires. * Inside the evaporator box (under-dash box that actually cools the air) is a temp sensor that the a/c computer uses to prevent freeze-ups. If this sensor reads too much resistance, the computer thinks the air is colder than it really is and the compressor gets turned off. Look for yellow+blue and red+green wires (coming from the big black plastic box; the connector will be near the diagnostic connector actually), unplug the connector. Using an ohmmeter, measure the sensor resistance: it should read about 1000 ohms on an 86 degree day; about 5000 ohms on a 50 degree day. If the resistance is above 5000 ohms the a/c computer will be thinking "very cold air, don't need the compressor." Have you looked for error codes from the a/c computer - it's in a 2-pin connector in the wire bundle near the stereo & passenger knee panel. It's often confused for the knee panel temp sensor connector by the way; it should have a green and a black wire. If the a/c computer is "happy" you'll have a constantly flashing/blinking 12volts-0volts-12volts cycle. Otherwise it'll spit codes. I'd also put a voltmeter on the a/c condensor relay coil wires and see if the computer is trying to turn it on at all... lately I've seen a couple that only spit out 3 volts or so... rather than 12. Bad a/c ECU. Otherwise you've already covered the usual suspects. The a/c ECU, relay, and fuse #7 are about all that is left. A/C compressor is affected by a couple thermoswitches and the pressure switches: * the small 1-prong thermoswitch on the thermostat housing itself is the GROUND for the compressor relay. This temp sensor often goes bad. Easy test: disconnect the wire going to it and ground the wire instead. If the compressor runs properly, the sensor is shot. It's supposed to be an on/off switch - not a variable resistance sensor like the sensor feeding the dash temp gauge. On an engine that is NOT overheating, the sensor prong is shorted to ground (so the compressor relay and compressor work normally). On an overheating engine, the sensor "opens" killing the a/c compressor. Usually this sensor rots internally and NEVER completes the ground (often you can rotate the connector tang when this happens) so the a/c compressor never turns ON at all. A rapidly cycling compressor usually isn't caused by this switch - that'd be a funky failure mode for this switch/sensor. * teeny thermosensor wedged against the evaporator underneath the dash. The a/c computer uses this sensor to monitor the refrigerated air temps; mostly making sure it doesn't get cold enough to start ice formation. Also, when the a/c system is working correctly on AUTO, you'll notice the fan doesn't run at full speed until the air gets cold... this temp sensor feeds the a/c computer that info. To replace this sensor, you have to drain the a/c refrigerant and remove the evaporator box from underneath the dash... not fun. It's resistance CAN be checked though easily; it's a simple two-wire connector coming from the evap box. Unplug the connector and stick an ohmmeter on it. An overcharged system will result in too-cold air temps causing the computer to cycle the compressor more often. * refrigerant "dual pressure switch" that kills the compressor if the refrigerant pressure is too low (no refrigerant or most has leaked out) or too high (about to burst the a/c hoses because of too much refrigerant, problems with the fans on the front of the car, front radiators blocked with dirt/leaves, etc). Typical dash vent temps (center vents) are around 50 to 54 degrees on a working R134a converted StarQuest a/c. mike
  13. If you are still looking for fusible links hit "Dad" aka Randy Gains up. Goes by Dad on this site and Randy Gains on Facebook. Jimmy
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