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tux last won the day on April 4

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  1. If it's the link you shared before, the images show a jet valve casting
  2. If it's slow to crank or something, maybe your alternator isn't charging the battery, but I'm going with startup fuel map
  3. Probably the fuel map for startup
  4. Not sure if it helps but I used a 1k pullup on my tach signal from my aem
  5. ohh ya, check that as well, same happened to my brake switch
  6. Might be vacuum lines or vacuum related. Sometimes the line running to the pump in the front of the radiator (drivers side) rots out. Could be the diaphragm in the module.
  7. The loop is effectively the cooler. Seems like it was plenty enough to get by. I'd assume the sub condenser is due to extra heat from condenser, but I don't know, never had an in auto
  8. No, the knock sensor is piezo electric if I remember correctly. It wouldn't have any downstream effects like destroying your igniter or distributor
  9. Before you take them apart, check for continuity and bridge the terminals to make the motor go up/down. I'd rather see you make sure the switch is buggered by non-destructive means first. Not that you will destroy it, but I've noticed this old plastic is pretty fragile
  10. I relocated the battery to do mine. I come through where my washer bottle was and up to the intake. I converted over to mpi though
  11. 1.5" Btw, I found an OEM clamp laying around at a dealership even though it's 'NLA'
  12. Some of these inserts require spacers. Could just use some large washers
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