tux

You can get your stocker fixed up at a radiator shop. there is a griffin that “fits” but I found it didn’t really and just had my stock one rodded

More fuel for more boost. with a 14g at stock boost levels you should be fine with the stock fpr. i would confirm against a wideband o2 when making changes

Hey Nico! glad to hear from you and hope you’re doing well!

In case anyone else is interested I got the MK60E5, appears to need a pretty specific type of ABS sensory and a yaw sensor as the only external requirements. There is a module sold by happy cactus that will let you use passive hall or VR wheel speed sensors. It's not clear to me how I'll grab wheel speed signals from all four corners yet. I think I have an idea for the rear to get a tone-ring on there. Not sure about the front wheels yet.

Maybe the car they used to mock it up was tweaked a bit

I found a standalone Teves mk60e abs module from a 2008 bmw M3. Was decently priced so I picked it up. Waiting for it to come from eBay. Based on my reading the m3 model is flashable which I probably won’t do. It also may be a contained unit (no external pressure sensors required, hopefully). The abs unit is completely stand alone, 4 channel, and reportedly performs very well in many applications. I’ll be working on bench testing the unit and figuring out a way to get a vss input from each wheel. It’s not clear to me if it needs VR, MR, or Hall sensors. If anyone knows much about bmw lmk! I pulled the factory abs out of my mpi car.

For sure. I don’t want to pay for a gps module just for vehicle speed. I’d rather 20cents in components and grab the signal from the cluster. i may try to retrofit a mk60 abs module into the car at some point, but that would be a forever project for me.. probably

I use one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/23-gallon-manual-fluid-extractor-62643.html

Input into my aem for hi idle, 2 step and boost targets based on which gear I’m in. it determines the gear I’m in based on rpm and vehicle speed.

Some time ago I was trying to grab the VSS Signal from the read switch to input into my ECU. Someone else was also trying to do the same. I think that post was lost during the great outage. Anyways... after many electronics projects and owning a volt meter (and properly know how to read circuit diagrams) I finally figured it out. The VSS Signal comes from a reed switch. That reed switch only switches a ground signal. You can grab the signal from one of the connectors, but I wanted to do non-destructive. I grabbed a ring terminal and attached it under the screw directly to the right of the speedometer. You want to use the lower of the two screws. I'm going to call it VSS-Out This is a floating ground. So to use the signal, you need to add a pull up to 12v (for most applications, 5v for others). This gives you a high signal (+12v or +5v) as the normal state and a low signal (ground) when the switch activates. There are 4 pulses per revolution, resulting in a square wave (⎍⎍⎍) . This should work for just about any ECU unless the ecu is expecting an AC Sine wave or VR Signal. You will need to attach a diode inline from VSS-Out if you are expecting the intermittent wipers to still work, abs, or the cruise control. The line on the diode should point towards the cluster. Attach a wire to the opposite side of the diode with a 10k resistor and connect the other leg of the resistor to 12v. Then from the side of the resistor opposite 12v you can attach the wire to the ECU. I attached a basic diagram

I have an antigravity battery, I do not recommend it.

Probably it looks like NDD is closed

edit* nvm I see the above.

I got mine right before court. It was missing the mounts for a rack

are you talking about the harness that plugs into the big relay by the ecu?