scott87star

Vacuum leak from the brake booster? Could be sucking in a bunch of air when you activate it via brake pedal.

Lack of fuel flow, check/change the filters, check the pump pressure.

All the old familiar names, awesome!

I have found it much easier to go without any idle control on the G54, it has lots of torque at 900 rpm and can handle the AC and power steering without issue, unlike a Miata for example. If you set hot idle for 900-950 rpm then the only issue is cold idle, right around 600, but you can fix that with your foot.

If I recall clearly you just start loosening the cam caps from the back forward until you can move the plug out, no bolts come all the way out, the valve spring pressure opens it up.

PM me an address, I checked my parts pile and came up with 5, including two that have clearly been opened up before. You can use them to experiment and/or one of them is likely good.

I’ve taken many of them apart but I’ve never tried to save the internals, both boards are molded in by tabs on the side structure. Try using a dremel with a cut off wheel to score the top and bottom covers. The sticky goo is a pain to deal with, it’s there to seal out the elements and help transfer heat. I don’t know of a solvent off the top of my head but start with isopropyl alcohol, move to acetone if the IPA isn’t effective. Once repairs are completed use conformal coating to seal things up.

The ECU doesn’t supply anything to the O2 sensor, the sensor supplies the voltage to the ECU. I forget if it’s 0.5 volts below stoic and 1 Volt above or the other way around but the voltage is generated by the chemistry happening within the sensor.

Trust your timing light, not the ECU. Now the basic Hurricane install did not control ignition so you may have issues such as stuck advances (old grease is sticky) or other. The standard FIP box only controls injectors.

Looks much better, it should be running. How do the plugs look? Try opening the throttle a bit during cranking to see if it wants a little more air.

Still got them, who needs one?

That gunk was the electrolytic capacitors puking their guts out, I had to replace most of mine on the board. You can get the specs off the outside of the capacitors to replace them. Tedious but doable.

Can you even get a new one? I have some spares if you know the thickness

I have made them, you just need another ECU to scavenge the connectors from. Doesn’t matter what year, the connectors are all the same, only the mounting tab position changed.

It’s based on an MS2 module but has an additional support board that includes a beefed up 5V supply, onboard MAP and baro sensors and a plug in module for onboard wide band O2. We also included a space for Bluetooth and/or WiFi. It’s great value for the money and it can run the G54 fully sequential ignition and injection if you swap to an early 90’s optical distributor for the rpm input.