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scott87star last won the day on October 19 2023

scott87star had the most liked content!

About scott87star

  • Birthday 03/27/1961

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  • Interests
    Freezing, thawing, thunderstorms and constant wind.
  • Location
    Dickinson, NORTH DAKOTA
  • Gender

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  • Factory Color
    Polar White
  • Interior Color
    Dark Red
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. Got two in ND and three in Phoenix, might be able to deliver on our journey between, October and April.
  2. MS has table editors/builders for each table you require, click on “tools” when in any table. Answer a few variables ( guesses are fine) and you’ll get awfully close. Close enough to start the engine and begin tuning. Best of luck!
  3. Lost in translation. I am the Godfather of MS for Starquests, probably some stuff in the vendor forum left on my contribution to this community, maybe not. Motocam Tim carries my products still, don’t check in here much anymore.
  4. D2's are the answer, I've used them on flattys and fattys and they do transform the car. My fatty had a coilover setup pieced together from old group buys including Cusco camber plates, the D2's just blew all of that out of the water. I slapped a set on my flatty and autocrossed the piss out of it, they just plain work. I actually have two sets NIB I should sell but they sit at my house in the North, won't be back there until May.
  5. Vacuum leak from the brake booster? Could be sucking in a bunch of air when you activate it via brake pedal.
  6. Lack of fuel flow, check/change the filters, check the pump pressure.
  7. All the old familiar names, awesome!
  8. I have found it much easier to go without any idle control on the G54, it has lots of torque at 900 rpm and can handle the AC and power steering without issue, unlike a Miata for example. If you set hot idle for 900-950 rpm then the only issue is cold idle, right around 600, but you can fix that with your foot.
  9. If I recall clearly you just start loosening the cam caps from the back forward until you can move the plug out, no bolts come all the way out, the valve spring pressure opens it up.
  10. PM me an address, I checked my parts pile and came up with 5, including two that have clearly been opened up before. You can use them to experiment and/or one of them is likely good.
  11. I’ve taken many of them apart but I’ve never tried to save the internals, both boards are molded in by tabs on the side structure. Try using a dremel with a cut off wheel to score the top and bottom covers. The sticky goo is a pain to deal with, it’s there to seal out the elements and help transfer heat. I don’t know of a solvent off the top of my head but start with isopropyl alcohol, move to acetone if the IPA isn’t effective. Once repairs are completed use conformal coating to seal things up.
  12. The ECU doesn’t supply anything to the O2 sensor, the sensor supplies the voltage to the ECU. I forget if it’s 0.5 volts below stoic and 1 Volt above or the other way around but the voltage is generated by the chemistry happening within the sensor.
  13. Trust your timing light, not the ECU. Now the basic Hurricane install did not control ignition so you may have issues such as stuck advances (old grease is sticky) or other. The standard FIP box only controls injectors.
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