TSITy

The stock ECU has a separate wire and sensor from the gauge. You will be able to remove the ECU harness with no issues. Worst case scenario, you can always just run a drop from the gauge cluster out to the temp sensor, then you will know that it is hooked up correctly, but you should not have to do this.

To do digital to analog, you will need a mechanical speedometer cable, an analog fuel sending unit (it has a green connector), and it makes it much easier if you have a parts interior harness so you can splice the stock analog plug end on (I have one if you need it), unless you have a different preferred plug like deutsch, weatherpack, etc. It will be harder to convert back to digital in this case, as the digital dash has plugs right into the cluster, unlike the analog which has a pigtail. But if it doesn't work, you probably don't care. I would buy the parts you have remaining (you will have a leftover digital fuel sending unit (blue plug), and a speed pulse generator that you will have to remove to install the mechanical speedo cable, DO NOT THROW THIS STUFF AWAY!!! I will buy them) and the cooked cluster if you want to do this swap. I like fixing boards. Be aware that it isn't super easy to swap this stuff; it does make it easier if I make the schematics

The technica cluster does not need any signals from the ECU. I can provide you the entire pinout and schematic that I have drawn up, although the colors may be inaccurate as I put it in an 87. It is currently unfinished. I converted my car from analog -> digital gauges and still need to finish the HVAC patch cable that I've been putting off, but the rest of it is finished and confirmed working. When this is done completely, I will be posting the schematics for free for anyone to use (unlike a lot of people who have charged for these things in the past). I can send you the unfinished one if you'd like

http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_nav.html click electrical and download. This is 88 only so if you have a different model it will be different. If you have an 87, a lot of things are the same.

The passing control relay (plugged into B-39 to the left of the glove box behind the dash) is primarily comprised of circuitry to raise the headlights. The reason it looks so complicated is because of the theft alarm circuit that is built into it. The ECU (this is really the ETACS computer under the driver seat, it is sometimes referred to as ECU in the schematics) can activate the headlights to raise and flash when the car decides it is being stolen (there's lots of ways to trigger it). I can break the pinout down if you really want me to, but that's the gist of it. These cars are pretty easy to steal regardless, so there's not much harm done in removing the anti theft headlight flashing feature. If you ctrl-f in the electrical schematics on the phrase "passing control relay", it describes this anti theft feature in great detail. I would certainly not waste $100 on a replacement and wire in a suitable relay with a plug of your choice. It really doesn't matter. Just make sure it's a common part that isn't NLA or discontinued. Any time I have a part like this fail on one of my cars, I find a suitable part that is readily available and install it. I have not had to do this with the passing control relay as I have several spares. When the day comes, it will be cut out.

There's a coolant hose on top of the heater core that people usually replace while the dash is out. There are other smaller items that can be rebuilt, but the coolant hose is the main one.

Check the passing relay behind the glove box

The only vacuum line you need to have the car running is the one to the distributor. All the others are "extra". Though, you'll want to keep the one by itself on the bottom going to the cabin if you want your vents to actuate. It all depends on what you want to keep.

To test the TPS you need an analog volt meter. Digital ones (even expensive) don't have a high enough sampling rate to see the small discontinuities in the sweep.

It'll be hard to get that price for a broken flatty. I never see them go for much money, even in great running condition. Fix it up the rest of the way and hopefully someone will be interested. GLWS.

You can add adjustable to stock setup with these: https://groundcontrolstore.com/products/coilover-conversion-kit-83-89-dodge-conquest-starion Or Mookeeh has lowering springs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/146078894384?_skw=conquest&itmmeta=01J9E7WAMBTEC2NWASEF8ZABQ2&hash=item2202fb0930:g:Ca4AAOSwtzRnACW3 I like the eibach's personally, you can still adjust back to stock ride height. And leave the stock shocks in. With the mookeeh lowering springs you should really get the shorter shocks too.

Must be back up. I would load it in and get a white screen.

I was going to grab an electrical manual and the website only loads to a white screen.

Just to update this; deleting the sub condenser seems to be fine. All you need is two new lines to do the normal non 88-89 A/C line routing. I haven't had any major cooling issues, and I even have my transmission cooler up by the main condenser.

Being able to easily post pictures would probably assist with this. Facebook makes it way too easy to just upload massive picture files easily.