TSITy

The only vacuum line you need to have the car running is the one to the distributor. All the others are "extra". Though, you'll want to keep the one by itself on the bottom going to the cabin if you want your vents to actuate. It all depends on what you want to keep.

To test the TPS you need an analog volt meter. Digital ones (even expensive) don't have a high enough sampling rate to see the small discontinuities in the sweep.

It'll be hard to get that price for a broken flatty. I never see them go for much money, even in great running condition. Fix it up the rest of the way and hopefully someone will be interested. GLWS.

You can add adjustable to stock setup with these: https://groundcontrolstore.com/products/coilover-conversion-kit-83-89-dodge-conquest-starion Or Mookeeh has lowering springs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/146078894384?_skw=conquest&itmmeta=01J9E7WAMBTEC2NWASEF8ZABQ2&hash=item2202fb0930:g:Ca4AAOSwtzRnACW3 I like the eibach's personally, you can still adjust back to stock ride height. And leave the stock shocks in. With the mookeeh lowering springs you should really get the shorter shocks too.

Must be back up. I would load it in and get a white screen.

I was going to grab an electrical manual and the website only loads to a white screen.

Just to update this; deleting the sub condenser seems to be fine. All you need is two new lines to do the normal non 88-89 A/C line routing. I haven't had any major cooling issues, and I even have my transmission cooler up by the main condenser.

Being able to easily post pictures would probably assist with this. Facebook makes it way too easy to just upload massive picture files easily.

My TPS had a discontinuity in the sweep. After replacing that and doing an idle reset, the car now idles well when hot. I still have a slight misfire on cold start but it was reduced by like 90% of the duration time, so I probably won't chase the issue any further.

Yeah so that kind of lines up with what I was thinking. I'll check the harness and make sure every connection is still good.

I have a strange run of issues on one of my conquests that I can't seem to figure out. To start off, all emissions are deleted and I have a catless downpipe. Using stock ECU. The car has an OVCP with a turbo XS blow off valve in which I've confirmed doesn't leak by removing it and putting in a block off. The car also has a freshly cleaned & sealed tank, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, new fuel lines, Southbay injectors, SPA adjustable FPR (set at 48 PSI), freshly rebuilt throttle body, and new injector clips. I have a full time electric fuel pressure gauge and can see the fuel pressure never blips so I know the issue isn't fuel (have also confirmed it is accurate using a mechanical gauge). I recently installed a AEM wideband to help diagnose this issue. The car is running stock boost and is an 89. It also has an automatic which doesn't matter. I've confirmed timing and even redid the ignition timing with no results. It has good spark with an MSD blaster 2, NGK plug wires, and new NGK copper plugs. Spark is good with no blowout, and I can run the car at WOT @14 PSI with no issues. I've also sprayed all the joints where there could be vacuum leaks, and the RPMs never climbed, so it's not a vacuum leak (unless it's the intake gasket as I'll mention later). Now onto the issue. The car will misfire for about 10-20 seconds on cold start consistently. Doesn't matter what temperature it is outside, it will always misfire for that amount of time. It seems like if it's colder, it is worse. Once the misfire clears up, the car actually idles very good and idles at an AFR of 14.7, crazy. After ripping it around the block and getting it warm, on dead stop idle the car will randomly blip to 20 AFR on idle and act like it's going to die. Once again, not fuel pressure. I do have an "engine code" as seen in the video for the ISC (edit: the code is actually for the TPS), but I've replaced it with one of the other good units from a starion I have and it didn't change anything. I am pretty stubborn so this could actually be the issue, but I just don't think it is. My plan of attack at this point is to do a continuity check on the entire ECU harness because I think that's where the issue lies. I will also do the intake gasket just for fun, since I'll be resealing the AC compressor. If that doesn't work, I'm going to remove the ISC altogether and apply my own form of idle control probably with an On-Off solenoid. Could this be mechanical failure? Maybe. I have a hard time believing it is because it drives very well normally aside from warm idle and cold starts. Video:

If you have an 88-89 (page 21 in the electrical manual) I and G in the diagram are the locations. Left side of the radio panel. Check to make sure the blower is grounded as well, it has its own ground cable that grounds near the ECU. This is usually why they don't work, I've never had a blower motor relay go out.

I've been meaning to get around to delete the A/C sub condenser but I haven't gotten around to it yet. Too many projects at one time. I have most of the parts to do it at the moment, just need to gather parts to make new lines. I've talked to guys that do A/C in semis and they don't understand why there would be a sub condenser, but of course they aren't engineers. I will be posting an update with how well it works and if I run into any issues (probably in the next 3 months or so).

I agree this would be the ideal way to fix it; however, I don't have the funds to replace EVERYTHING. Just enough to make it work.

Posting this in automatic transmissions because the AC sub condenser is exclusive to the versions of the car with an automatic. I'm going through converting the AC in my 89 to use R134a. My AC sub condenser is pretty beat up, and I don't really want to fork over the insane amount of cash that a good one will cost. I'm planning on just deleting it entirely and running the main condenser only. Anyone done this or any thoughts on this?