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I've already taken some bump steer and ackermann measurements with the factory steering box and linkage. I used the laser and mirror method. It was my first attempt at anything like this and I made some mistakes, but I tried to document everything as well as I could, and I made some spreadsheets that might be useful to you. Bump steer: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/1988-chrysler-conquest-ecotec-swap/178574/page9/#post3424183 Ackermann: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/1988-chrysler-conquest-ecotec-swap/178574/page10/#post3433160

Thanks sounds easy, I just went through the entire wiper motor and wiper transmission. It works perfectly now!

1. Remove the battery and battery tray. 2. Remove the washer tank mounting bolt. 3. Remove the washer tank. Everything on these cars should be this easy. ☺️

What is necessary to remove and replace the pump. It looks like the battery then maybe the tank?

Cool! Best of luck with the project. Will probably have to use an older 302 front sump style oil pan setup for it to fit in a CQ.

Sounds like a bad ignition switch. They are easy to replace, finding one???? You might want to have a new key made first.

I bought it on rockauto. They were a PAIN to install. but they went on eventually.

I gotta keep the sliders, my wife is 5'1 and she doesn't care to drive it but if she had to move it or something she wouldn't even be able to reach the pedals where I drive it! I will do the gangsta lean for the first trip or two if I can, I would hate to do these changes then decide I didn't care to autocross. I thought about using like an aluminum kirkey seat, it would be easy enough to swap one of those into a fixed position for a weekend and remove for normal usage and those seats are so thin it would by some room. What I would really like to do is some laps at the local track (Hallet Motor Racing Circuit) but the car still has a ways to go before I can beat its brains in on something like that. I figured Autocross was a good way to warm me and the car up for that. I am a drag racer at heart but I am trying to open my options now that I added a car that is semi capable of turning at speed lol.

My mistake, it looked like only pin end was balanced. Carry on! Dad

Have the climate control interface ?

Hey friends! My 86 Starion won’t shut off when I take the keys out the ignition, I have a good batt, fuse links near batt are good and my alternator is good I am not sure what it could be, any help would be great thanks! Cheers! 👍🏽

So this is something I have been planning since 1996 and I guess im finally ready to start it. I pulled my front clip in with my home made tractor for mock up. Plan for now is to run the stock 94 5.0 after cleaning and some PM. Once she is on the road and all proven out I might look into aluminum heads to pull some weight off the front end. If I decide I want real power I will turbo it. I have rack & Pinion I will be installing after I map out factory steering box bump steer and ackerman. I will be using alot of the mustang factory wiring harness to control A/C, Fan, Engine. As I proceed I will update with what works and what does not. I have no planed completion date so expect a slow build.

I forgot to mention this. I would check with South Bay to verify that the injectors are Delphis. If so, they will need to see appox. 43.5 psi fuel pressure to operate at their optimum. If you are still running the stock FPR the psi is appox. 34 to 38 psi.

After all, It is a sports car, not a Cadillac.

FIC Injectors for Starquests are Delphis. They use to use a electric scribe on the side of the injectors to mark the cc size. The Delphis are green and black in color. The South Bay injectors kinda look like Delphis with the spacers but, I would have to see them up close.

I'm 6'1" i sit with quite a gangster lean, so i can fit with a helmet. My knees are a bit of an issue hitting the wheel. But eh

Yep, Delphis do run lean until warm up. I have a 950/1150 injector set up with a 3 1/2" MAF -T. It is fun to adjust.

Nothing is cheap when doing mods on these cars. The best set up is to use a A/F Gauge, AEM or the like. You have to install a bung in the exhaust pipe at least 36 inches downstream of the Turbo. And installed at least at a 30 degree angle. AEM gives you all of the information for installing the sensor. Keep your stock 0-2 sensor in place. Or you might want to install a three wire O-2 Sensor. See how much you have to change when you start to do mods on your fuel delivery. And I haven't even got into fuel flow with a aftermarket fuel pump, aftermarket fuel filter and a Rising rate fuel pressure regulator to feed and adjust the larger than stock fuel injectors. Now is where the fun starts !!!!! But, if you need help........We are here. Bill

I get that. Probably the only thing really holding me up right now is the 2 trips and cost of fuel. ... maybe the angry wifey ... maybe she'll get over it

I ran into this with my car too. I'm 6'2" and didn't fit with my helmet on. I took the seat out and removed the sliders. Then made custom brackets to drop the seat 1-2" and also moved it back a few. Now it's in a fixed position, but I'm the only one driving it anyways. So all good

Copy. I honestly hope I have then gone sooner. But we will see.

Basically just said the same thing as above. Hopefully I can take you up on the offer before the end of summer!

But it is worth every penny! Then you know for sure what is going on with your air fuel mixture.

?? Must not have seen it.

I just responded to your facebook post too