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I found it! The key search term was "sewn." But I was wrong, it wasn't recent, it was an old post I must have stumbled across.

Have you thought about using some of those skills you picked up while deployed and using them on those members of the HOA?

Welcome back. If you end up with a flatty again, I ordered something from nengun and I received the wrong OEM part. It's a JDM lip for the flatty airdam.

Kev that’s the most in detail explanation I’ve gotten so far I appreciate that. Could you send me some pictures of all of your vacuum lines you have routed and anything you have plugged. I think I understand, but I like to have pictures to make sure I’m doing everything right.

You need to retain your fuel vapor purge valve functionality unless you are removing that purge valve completely and letting it always vent to atmosphere (I wouldn't recommend). The thermo valve is also used for purge valve functionality but it can be removed without any real issues....it just keeps the purge valve closed until the engine warms up. So, you need the two lines running across the front of the engine to the purge valve under the air can (one black, one blue stripe). You need the black line to the dissy vac advance. You need the lower line on the intake running to the cruise control system and interior HVAC. And that is about it. Oh, and the line from the fuel pressure regulator to the injection mixer body....but I don't believe this is on the vac diagram. And if you have an 88/89, there are a few lines for the wastegate...which typically were removed many years ago by former owners. Open up the vac diagram in the FSM (Page 25-3, or 25-14 or 14-3) and, using this information, it is pretty easy to determine what can be simplified. Port D on the TB will have a black line going to a T (one leg to the dissy vac advance, other to the purge valve top port). Port A of the injector mixer will go to the side port on the purge valve. If you want to retain the thermo valve (meaning your plastic ports are not cracked on it), then leave it in (it taps into the same black and blue stripe lines, as seen in the diagram). Just make sure all open lines and ports are capped...especially Ports E and M on the TB (Port M is the perfect spot for an aftermarket boost gauge. Page 14-31 gives the port nipple locations on the injection mixer/TB. The FSM does a good job explaining the functionality of each component as well.

welcome back thanks for your service. starquestparts.net has a really nice technica flatty

Welcome back! They always come back lol. I can't imagine life without a Quest. Dad

The only vacuum line you need to have the car running is the one to the distributor. All the others are "extra". Though, you'll want to keep the one by itself on the bottom going to the cabin if you want your vents to actuate. It all depends on what you want to keep.

I recently bought one the HKS downpipe flanges because I've been wanting to go catless. I understand how to remove like the air cleaner box itself, but rerouting the vacuum lines has me very confused. I've tried reading through the forums to find pictures, but majority of the links are dead. Could someone explain or send a diagram of where to reroute all of the vacuum lines when removing the secondary air cleaner and EGR? Thanks in advanced.

This was just posted close to me on FB. https://www.facebook.com/share/L4EguMqZRo2ioQab/

Welcome back! There have been a few nice flatties pop up recently, so you may be in luck!

Well, I’d be that guy if I knew that attempting to uncover the bottom cushion would allow me to remedy the weird double bump thing going on in my bottom seat cushion. I’m right on the cusp of either paying to have them custom reupholstered, or replacing them with Corbeaus.

Welcome back

Evening everyone, I'm a returning member from back around 05-06. I had a VG flatsider that was towed away by an HOA when I was deployed. Anyway, I'm back and looking for another flatty and catching up with things.

Someone said Autozone has a mast that would need the snake to be trimmed; anyone here familiar with this or which one it would be? Thanks

I don't know if it was an easy fix, but I remember someone posted what they did, with pictures. I just can't come up with the right keywords for my search. There are only a few people on here doing that level of restoration, but I'm drawing a blank. It may not even have been a new post--it may have been a reply to another post.

Unfortunately the nylon snake broke, it's very brittle. anyone know of a mast replacement source? I had another car with similar set up, the mast broke and I was able to feed a replacement into it. Thanks

I didn’t know that there was even a “potential ” fix for that, just assumed that the leather had puckered there, and the sun baked it that way. I’d be interested in that link too.

Thanks guys. Tried searching but doesn’t work very good for me. I’ll be getting into it.

I've searched here every way I can think of and I can't find the fairly recent post someone made about how they repaired the little "bumps" that appear on the 88/89 front seat bottom cushions. I remember it had something to do with a plastic piece under the cushion that maybe the stitching was attached to. Can whomever posted it link me to the post? Thanks! Mark

Check this thread out. https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/150491-how-to-retractable-antenna-repair/

Agreed. I had a similar situation a few years back. Take it all apart, clean it up and coat it with white lithium grease and see what happens.

Come get this car with a huge price drop. It's complete. Needs some TLC

Your best bet would be taking it apart for inspection. You can make anything nowadays!! Maybe all it needs is some lubricating grease..

I had an 86 that chewed and spat a bearing and oil out the side cover. I was able to make it home and ended up doing a balance shafts delete. Sold the car before I drove it so can't add anything about vibration. Like others have said, if it's smooth then why bother.