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Highly recommend using a wide plastic interior trim tool, like the one in this set, to work the lens off of the assembly: https://smile.amazon.com/Apeixoto-Removal-Removers-Molding-Fastener/dp/B07RK292CB That and patience really helps. It takes time to soften that ancient adhesive with the heat gun. Keep in mind, there are about 6 little tabs on the lens that actually hook into the housing in addition to the glue. The first assembly I took apart I warped the housing because I didn't think about those tabs, got the plastic too hot. Here are some night shots I got. Would have focused on the ground more, but I did not anticipate how much my LED license plate bulbs would overpower everything. As a reminder, I am using red LED replacement taillight bulbs. Driver is white gloss, passenger is metallic aluminum: In person, neither seemed brighter than the other, just different light dissipation/reflection pattern. I still think unopened clean reflectors look/perform the best, but if you have an old rusty set of taillights, either paint seems to be a good option if good originals become unobtanium.

You can "depower" a power rack, here's an example: https://motoiq.com/project-miatabusa-part-5-de-powering-the-steering-rack/. I think a similar process can be done with a power steering box, but I'm not as familiar with it.

The problem with that style is that you need a manual box or rack. A hydraulic assist box or rack doesn't do well without fluid running through it.

I can get more pics for anyone interested.

More information: The head gasket was replaced before it was parked. The tries were replaced before it was parked. Montero Sport rims. The rear brakes were completely redone. The front brakes were upgraded to Montero Sport calipers. After market string wheel. Basic pioneer Bluetooth stereo with new speakers. Custom seat rails to fit Montero Sport seats. I have a new ac compressor that goes with it. I think there's more, but that's all I've got right now. Make me an offer, possibly open to trades, but not vehicle related.

I've always wanted to do a Prius electric power steering setup, planning to do it when I get around to the rack conversion. The Prius units provide the power assist in the steering column, and from what I understand, we have enough space under the dash to make it work. Requires some fabrication obviously, but I do remember a couple of guys in the Facebook groups who have done it successfully.

I read a week ago or so where you replied with the same info about the wear on the bearing ... which is why I'm not interested in rebuilding this again. Seriously, I probably only have 1500-1000 miles on this rebuild. I'd like to find an alternate pump solution.

same and with how rare the lights are in good shape, i fear trying again

The bearing inside wears with time. These PS pumps frustrate the heck out of me. I have the photos for the rebuild but I never put up a thread because the pump still leaked after rebuild...twice, even with a high end double lip seal. Then I had another one that didn't leak but wouldn't build pressure. For how simple these things are, they've given me so much grief.

Cool! Thanks for posting this. I have this on my list of things to do on my driver conquest. I keep putting it off because I tried years back to separate one of these lights and broke it in the process.

I've had mixed results w/ Nengun Like charging shipping for an entire order when only 1/9 items were available.

I have a 1995 Mitsubishi Mighty Max for sale. It is a project truck that I just don't have the time or desire to finish. It did run and drive, but I took off a bunch of body parts to paint it and never finished painting the doors/fender/hood or putting it back together and it's been sitting under a tarp for about 2 years. I have all of the body parts, including a new hood that goes with it, however the truck bed is in pretty rough shape (rusted through in a few places). I'm located in Tampa, FL $500 OBO Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks! i ended up cutting the wires to my lights (i put two led strips on both sides. I'll try to reconnect and push that down and see if it does anything when I get my car back from the paint shop

I've ordered parts from japan before that are NLA here. Nengun and Amayama are good sites. Buy Genuine Mitsubishi MB350395 Seal Kit,p/s Oil Pump. Prices, fast shipping, photos, weight - Amayama

I'm not sure the underside was that clean from the factory. Looking AWESOME!

This thread is a few months old, but I meant to post this a while back. BUGG is correct, the switch is down inside the passenger side latch. I never did mess with it to figure out my problem (could just be the bulb honestly), but here's a pic of the switch.

Just an update to this thread ... the link Texas posted on eBay ... I purchased the rebuild kit ... waited about a month and then with no communication or warning I got a full refund. Guess they are NLA. So, I'm not sure what I'm gonna do. I have some DSM power steering pumps laying around. I think I'm gonna see if there's not some way to make one of them work on the car using the OEM bracket over the winter.

Gas tank looks amazing! Like what you did with the fuel pump.

Speedmaster had the black Friday sale, not as cheap as it was last year but not bad. $650 for china aluminum heads assembled shipped to my door, That will take 50lbs off the front and will add some power. I probably should have ordered the stroker kit for $500 and hade a 347 but I have been spending money like crazy on other projects. The oil pan needed a dimple for the rack & pinion line. I used a bearing cap for a trailer, also went side dip stick to clean things up. It did not turn out as good as I wanted but I was in a rush and it was late. Slapped the tank and rear in the car. Feels good to get all the parts back on the car instead of scattered all over the barn. Probably will rebuild calipers and powdercoat brackets next.

I'm not a fan of installing grossly oversized fuel pumps even more so if you are going to choke them with small fuel lines and starve them of power with undersized wire and relay. I went with a 255 LPH fuel pump that I know can live a long time pushing fuel through this size fuel lines and I don't need to re-wire the car. My 255 in my mustang is pushing 26 years with no issues. The MKS bracket didn't make sense to me at my power level so I built my own. Also used a mustang filter where the pump used to be. I was pretty happy with everything It only took 2 hrs and fits nice and doesn't leak.

1988 Service Manual online at: http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_nav.html Jimmy

Gonna try to get some night shots the next time I bring it to work since I get out so late. I'm using a heat gun to loosen up the adhesive, then using a plastic interior trim tool to work the outer lens off of the assembly similar to this video. For reassembly, I'm using butyl sealant tape like this to re-seal: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08398DP4Q?psc=1 It might look too thick, but you can stretch to thin it out kinda like playdoh. I still ended up getting it too thick in some areas, but with some further persuasion with the heat gun, I was able to get all of the little locking tabs back where they were. The aluminum finish on the passenger taillight there ended up having a bit of a matte texture to it, so I was expecting the white gloss to be much brighter. It does seem to diffuse the light much more evenly, at least. I'll see how it looks in the night.

Buy yourself a factory service manual (starquest bible) and try to meet other locals near you with starquests.

There is a lot of right ups of maintenance and manuals available here. You could look for a mom and pop import repair shop. Older import mechanics will most likely be experienced in these engines. Maybe some Florida members can chime in.

Ah, the problem is i don't have the equipment, time, or skillset to manufacture brackets