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We’ve determined buckskin is the paint code. The interior in that car is regular black.

I've been having trouble with the site lately too, and I recently started getting an ad between every click which o never got any ads before at all - not sure what's going on. Car looks awesome. I'd love to see some pics of that buckskin interior.

Ok. 69 views…I hope someone can help me Rather than just go all newb, and ask a bunch of dumb --------------- questions that have been asked since the dawn of eternity, I tried to do some forum surfing first. The site crashes almost 85-90% between every topic change and makes me reload the page. ( tells me something like too many of something is happening, and to try again….then I have to wait about a minute for it to work) No pictures from any other sub forum is/are viewable. I cannot glean any useful info from any previous how to..anywhere. wt.... is happening here?

Congratulations and I think I followed this auction. Looking forward to watching your project progress

Thanks, appreciate all the help I’ll start with those, i’ve replaced all the fusible links. and put fresh fluids in. i’m kind of a noob but i’m sure i’ll end up figuring it out eventually.

Welcome back! Sounds like a nice find! My opinions HP mod: Go MPI with a standalone. Decent T3 flange exhaust manifold and a ball bearing turbo. Suspension: D2 all the way. Although there are some other coil over options out there now that are probably fine. As for the trans linkage, a short throw shifter and new fulcrum bushing will be night and day difference. Sounds like your fulcrum bushing is gone. I bought a couple of them of a member here years ago. Might be a little tricky finding one now. I'm not really sure. P.S. I'm also Mike, and I may be an alcoholic 😊

Hello I’m Mike. ( I’m not an alcoholic). 20 years have passed since I was last here. At that time, I had a 1987 Conquest that I had completely converted to a twin turbocharged 700 hp 363 c.i. Ford motor/Powerglide drag car. In the cars previous iteration, it was a N/A 347/Tremec 3550 street driver. Before that, it was a dead engine’d stocker sitting under a Spruce tree with a pretty serious Hornets nest under the hood. A few years before that project, I had a 1987 Starion that also ended up as a ford engined drag car. In between Starquest ownership, the last car I had was a 1978 Ford Fairmont street driver. With a 617hp 2jz GTE/CD 009. When a complete JDM 2jz could be bought for 2700.00 Now, present day, I just bought a 1989 Buckskin Conquest off auction that I’ve had for about a week now. A declaration to the purists: My drag racing days are over. This car will not get hacked up and ford engine swapped. It’s a 72k mile fairly nice, mostly unmodified stock car. Save for squeezing it to make more power, I intend to leave the drivetrain alone. The Transmission shift linkage is worn out, the front seats have been in the Arizona sun too long, and the tires are flat spotted so bad the car drives like it’s on square tires. But other than those “ fixes”, it will make a nice driver. ill be asking for HP mod help, Suspension and braking upgrade advice, and what others have done to make the seat accommodate a 6’ driver. And put it all in a build thread. And desperately try to avoid putting any other engine in the car. Thanks for reading. ( I’m “ wordy”)

Would also get rid of the MSD unit, or at least remove it for testing.

I'd start with basic tune up stuff - replace the rotor, cap, coil and plugs and see what happens, esp since you say have good fuel pressure. You can order most of that cheap right from Rockauto. The pics you have posted don't show the wiring at the CTS.

87” Picked this car up at the beginning of march, pretty much a barn find when it comes to how long it had been sitting. Wiring is a little bit of a rats nest from previous owner. I get a slow crank like it wants to bite but then speeds up. 100% sure it’s spark, spark plugs are wet, injectors clicking, and good fuel pressure. Heres a drive with pics of the points of interest. I don’t see that hub over by the intake like there’s supposed to be. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-DmDdjCOBzPOBzVbWUM8a7KZDHBe4LMN Appreciate the help a lot, wanna get this girl back on the road, wether she likes it or not 😂

The thermosensor isn't going to affect much, but the coolant temp sensor in a G54B is critical to determining open and closed loop and will affect the running of the engine - but not spark. I'd look into the coil or ignitor like BKB94 suggested. As far as the wiring goes without a pic it's tough to see what you going on, but you should have a wiring harness branch running along the intake manifold with 3 connectors on it for the CTS, sender, and the AC switch, all of them right at the water neck. Look for wires in that area that are yellow with either blue or green stripes on them - if I'm remembering right.

What year? Any pictures of these sensors and wiring? It’s common for igniters and even coils to have electrical issues when the heat up. You could test it with a heat gun and see if you get now spark on a cold engine.

Hey Guys, so I've ben troubleshooting an issue with my starion. It runs for 20 mins, gets up to operating temps, dies due to no spark. I assume its due to the fact that there is no wiring connected to these two sensors. I'm not great when it comes to electrical diagrams or anything so I was hoping to find some help when it comes to, what I should do to hook these back up.

Very cool, yeah it seems I picked a late time to get into the Starquest game lol. I can definitely see the chime getting old but I think it's one of the "exotic" things about these that sets them apart. The Velnas computer is interesting sounding from the short thread i just found on it, I had never heard of those yet, I'm going to research that a bit more. Thank you and you aren't cluttering it, I appreciate the knowledge! I appreciate the link, it's a nice looking car, a bit nice to start out with for me though. Thank you!

I just trimmed mine with a pair of scissors to clean it up a bit. It was torn and rough around the edges. There are aftermarket adhesive type under insulation you can buy from places like Summit or Jegs that many guys use. I've never personally purchased any of those products myself. However I have researched them and considered it. You definitely want something there. My first Quest ever was white and the hood paint had turned yellow-ish were the turbo was b/c the previous owner removed the insulation and all shielding.

Thought I’d post some photos that were taken and edited by a local photographer at a meet i went to awhile back. Photographer’s instagram is @mage.pics

Sweet! Got any tips for the underhood insulation? Can you buy it and cut to fit?

Sounds good. I still have it.

Pulled gas tank and its super rusted. I think I found a replacement off Facebook but I'll see how it looks.

It's getting close to the end of driving season here in PA for 2016. NikoFab is putting together an SQC calendar for 2017 and asked if I'd be apart of it. So, I spend some time online searching for a local photographer that shoots cars, not just a wedding photographer. I actually found someone and we met up and did a shot at a local state park. He took probably a 100 photos, but here's a few from that day. It was so much fun to have this done.

If you watched my Youtube test drive video from several posts back during the restoration you might have notice there's a piece that falls of the car when I'm driving. Luckily it didn't do any damage to my paint, but it was the top windshield trim. It got mangled in the fall. Appearantly the upper windshield clips are broken and not holding. So I had to track down a new one. pcristquester hoooked me up and did a great job shipping it safely cross country., I need to track down some windshield clips and get this installed.

I built a motor for a different car years ago with forged pistons and rods that constantly had oil pressure problems. B/c of that I'm a bit paranoid about oil pressures and I tend to watch them like a hawk. So far, everything seems to be good with this engine build. Idle at start up is about 60lbs. After driving a bit, completely warm, idle at a stop light is about 18-20lbs.