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Cool, keep us updated on how it works.

Ram 50 starion Raider montero mighty max d50 plymouth arrow shifter bushing NOS | eBay

Looks great!

Ok so I got the tank, but it was missing fittings, so I haven't been able to test yet. Ordered some fittings from Amazon... I also ordered a half gallon air tank as well, since the one for the air cup kit is 1 gallon. I will test first with the 1 gallon tank, then see if I can get away with a half gallon, as I don't want to take up that much trunk space.

Not too many questions at all. We will get you there If you pull out the relay that will take the fan out of the equation, but the AC fan will still run. With the relay out your AC fan should come on normally with either thermosensor 2, dual pressure or the pressure switch. Engine coolant switch isn't tied to the AC fan. You could jump ground to each of those, or any of those for testing purposes without having to let the car run. If that all works as it should with the relay pulled, then yes, you have an issue with either the fan 2 relay or the fan itself. I would put my bets on the fan motor or potentially wiring going to it.

AHhhh. Ok, sure. I was thinking the other Meta, like one thing in another thing. Kinda. Anyway....

@psu_CrashStill haven't found the issue , just responding to TexasQuest. I'll check the secondary fan as soon as I can. If I'm reading the wiring diagram on page 90 right, it looks like pulling out the secondary fan relay would bypass any power going to the secondary rad fan until the pressure switch, dual pressure switch, or the engine coolant temperature switch closes right? So if I pull the secondary rad fan relay out and the AC fan comes on immediately when the ign swt is turned on it suggests that 1 or more of the 3 previously mentioned sensors might be faulty? However, if I pull out the secondary rad fan relay out and the AC fan doesn't immediately turn on and instead it turns on around the time that the Primary fan turns on, it suggests that there might be a fault in the secondary rad fan relay correct? I'll be checking the resistance of the fan and will update within the hour. I'm terribly sorry if that was too many questions or worded too poorly, I'm battling against time in college right now and I didn't get much time to read through the diagram. I'll drag this car kicking and screaming to a daily driver status but it might take awhile

Ah, meta is the new name for the company that owns Instagram/Facebook/occulus/etc

Tux, I must be too old to entirely understand what this means Damn PSU, thanks. Otherwise, 1. Thanks for confirming on the fan situation. I was getting confused tracing the 5 or 6 relays driving the fans. 2. I've got the Schiemann Composites pieces, just need installed, I'll throw some star washers in at the same time and report back.

Be cool if he came over here for us non-meta users

This is the guy who does the hatch bushings: https://www.facebook.com/Schiemann-Composites-1044728035562051/ They are great quality, highly recommended.

He hasn't been active here since April 9th. I wouldn't bet on ever seeing him here again.

Secondary fan and the AC fan are wired in parallel. Take a look at page 90 HERE I would grab a meter and check resistance through that secondary fan. If it was a dead short or close to it. That would cause the issue. You can pull the secondary fan relay out and let it warm up again. Should see the AC fan come on close to when the primary comes on. Edit: posted before I saw your response. Sounds like you found the issue though!

Hello former lurker! I think we all did that at first. The hatch issue is common for a lot of us. I have adjusted mine on the 86 a few times and it doesn't make a lot of difference. Sure wouldn't hurt to try some aggressive washers. It may be that the gasket/bushing piece on the hatch side is shot too. Someone was making replacements a bit ago. Can't remember if i saw it here or facebook. The AC fan is connected in parallel with thermo switch 2, so yes you have to leave the high temp switch in there. It is also turned on by a pressure switch on the AC system, although I'm not sure if that would be enough to run when it should. Look at page 90 here http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_manual_-_group_26_-_electrical.pdf By the way, good looking Quest! For a red one

Hello all, Bought my '88 Quest like 4/5 years ago from a kid on here, drove it from the Carolinas to the Denver area. Posted a few times. Decided check back in, stop lurking, introduce myself and ask a couple of questions. 1. Hatch adjustment? As in is there a way to lock in the proper adjustment? I've adjusted it at least three times. It keeps slipping rearward. Maybe adding some really aggressive star washers?? 2. I swapped in the crank driven cooling fan (and thermo clutch) from a non intercooled car. Do I need to leave the thermo-switches connected for the AC fan??? I'd really like that fan to retain it's ability to kick on if (When?) things get too hot.

Good to know. My car never overheated when it was in Washington state but as soon as the Arizona weather hit it's been a constant struggle. Even with that giant aluminum radiator CXRacing makes it still gets hot sitting in traffic. The car only has around 45k miles so I hope it's not losing its head or head gasket, but I've started to doubt anything on these old cars will last another 3 years haha.

My car setup is with the 2 low temp thermosensors installed with a jumper wire connected to each for added security that they both come on at the same time. I've never ran hot in the Texas heat since.

Dang that's a good place to start looking thank you. If I measure the resistance between the two terminals would I be looking for super low resistance from a potential short? Since oem replacement motors are around $250 right now would I have a chance at rebuilding it?

The fact that the secondary is dead could be the reason for your issue. The coils in the motor could be shorted, causing the fan to be dead, but also causing high amperage draw.

Did oil pressure drop when hot? When I lost a balance shaft bearing, I noticed a high rpm rattle, but a few days on I noticed oil pressure at idle was lower on gauge. other bearings were ok but it put trash all thru engine, had to rebuild it.

Alright guys, hopefully I'm in the right forum for this. Would just like a little advice with this g54b. So I've put about 1200 miles on it since I got it running after sitting since 2003. Seemed to run ok, little hiccups here and there. I parked it for several months now because my pinon seal on the steering box went bad so it leaked all the ps fluid out so got tired of putting ps fluid in it all the time. Got that fixed, got it started, had a lifter tapping, nothing too crazy, checked the valve adjustment and it was ok, drove it home and on the way home I noticed it making a low end knock at about 3k rpms. So my question is, do I spin a new set of bearings in it? Car had 82x miles so motor can't be too worn out. I already have new lifters to put in it but I didn't know if this motor is saveable? Any recommendations would be appreciated

Picked up the new copy of the rear graphic. It's hard to see but it's laying on the table in front of my old hatch. Measured and marked everything out. Ran a credit card over it a few times to make sure we had good adhesion. I increased the gap between the "N" in Starion and the "E" in ESIR b/c I felt like on my old hatch the graphic kinda all ran together and looked like one long word. I like the spacing better this time around.

update, tested the secondary fan as per the FSM suggests and it's dead. Makes me grateful that it didn't work if only the AC fan almost burned down the car. For anyone else searching for similar answers on why the secondary and AC fan kick on together, their relays are wired together so if one kicks on the other will too.

Had a bad few weeks but trying to make progress between all the bad news. I found a supplier for my paint and it is PPG but its looking like 1/2 the price. The problem with deals like this is it's been weeks and I still don't have paint. I wanted to preserve the condition of many of the parts on this car. So instead of painting or powdercoating every single thing I clear coated them. I got stupid and started cleaning every single bolt, washer, lock washer, nut, bracket on the car along with brake lines, gas lines, and vacuum lines and clear coated them. Many parts look brand new and retain the factory coating. parts

Running rich like that just washes the oil off the cylinder walls and dilutes the oil. If it was a fresh engine and you did that you might have sealing issues but on a engine with miles on it I wouldn't expect anything and especially not pitting. I think at some point water / coolant got into that engine and it sat a while.