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Tim_C.

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Everything posted by Tim_C.

  1. Good to see you around again. I thought you were still up in MT?
  2. Since I have no intention of being a vendor again, I can say that my source for the cams is Colt Cams in Vancouver BC. One reason they were a little expensive is because shipping to and from up there added another $40 or so. I usually sent them up in lots of 6 or 7 cams. I sent up cores to be ground, with him Geoff, supplying cores when he found one that is unacceptable, etc... So, yes, he has the grinds and if you want one, be my guest to order direct. He does have a US core regrind of the Aussie only stock roller that will work even better with 1.6 ratio rockers. He is professional with his grinds, but he probably won't supply a cam card with the minute details on it. Most of you have the list with the general details. Someone had already posted the source without my asking, and if you disagree with that like I do, please tell him on this thread. That is not how business is done, even though I was already done with supplying them, it is proper to send me a message to at least ask and discuss it first. It is never good to just post up a source like that. I live a blessed life in peace, so I'll try to not let it get to me, but still, that isn't right. I have told many people in PM's over the years, so it wasn't like I was trying to hide it and not allow people the chance to get the cam they want.
  3. Good luck to you guys. Like I said, the perfect cam will cost due to the need for more metal. Those processes aren't cheap and not many if any would want to pay the price. Plus, there is no such thing as the perfect cam that fits every application. Thus the need for different grinds. Grinds that were offered for years with good success except for the few people who were in over their heads and didn't know the basics of what is needed to set up a cam. The Aussie rocker works, but is a 1.55 or so ratio. It is between the 2.0L SOHC 1.5 ratio, and the V6 1.6 ratio. I'm sure the Aussie cam will work with a 1.6 ratio rocker, but it was close and I didn't feel like trying it since I had the 1.55 Aussie rockers with the cam. It seems to me that you are trying to re-invent the wheel when there are good options out there already, unless you want to spend the cash to make your own custom grind. Even then, you will go through a few cams before you get it right. Since my cam source was already posted by someone, I'll say that yes, he has a regrind that is basically the same as the Aussie stock roller cam. Call him up and he can grind it for you, no problem. I will say that it is very bad morals to post up someone's source without asking. However, I would have said that is fine since I won't offer anything ever again to anyone on these boards. Doing business properly seems to be a lost art with these new boys trying to build cars. Again, good luck, you are going to need it.
  4. Be advised that your request does not include the rocker arms that the lifters fit into, which are needed to complete the assembly. I assume you already have them, and I don't want to insult your intelligence, but lifters do not include the hydraulic rockers needed to complete the assembly. I just hate to see someone receive less than what they thought, so I like to make sure everyone is on the same page completely to avoid buyers remorse problems that occur quite frequently.
  5. The perfect cam is easily attainable. Nothing that over $1000 can't cure, just for the cam. Then, simply build the entire engine around it. nothing that another $6000 or so can't cure. For the record, my cams are no longer available. too many morons on this site that can't seem to understand how to set it up #1, or they have some idea that a cam is going solve all of their tuning problems #2, and I could about go on forever to list all of the stupid stuff people try with cam set-ups. I've been out of that game for over a year now. So yes, there are great gains from MPI and even throttle body tunability, but all of which are better with a cam ground to fit the goal of the builder. Everyone says they have such good HP from a stock cam, why go with a special grind? Because you change your 2000 RPM of usable HP into 3000, 4000, or even 5000+ RPM of usable HP in a wide band that will blow the socks off of any HP with a stock cam. Even a 450+ HP stock cam set-up is very very limited as to its usefulness in the real world. That's why I never put much stock into hi HP numbers for so called bragging rights in whatever 'club' your dyno run qualifies you for. Total BS and has very little to do with clearing ground on a track or open road in the real world. So keep your stock cams in your little dyno world, but realize all gains you make with tunability would be better with the right cam to fit your goals. Remember too that all of the cams I offered were admittedly a bit limited due to the stock core to work with. there is where the big money comes in. If you want to do it right like real racers do, you will need to create your own blank to start from. Do that, and your options are wide open to design the perfect cam. I fully believe there are several people on this site that can easily come up with a much better grind for their goal, than what I offered. It just isn't so easy when all you have to work with is a stock core. Take a stock core to a grinder and have the lobes built up with special weld, and have it ground to your dream specs. it isn't that difficult really, but it costs money and lots of it, and it is a world that I never really saw any future in for me or for the club. Then when you reach your ultimate goal, you can replace the rest of the drive train with parts that can handle it. Nothing that another few thou won't cure.
  6. I'll bet you are liking that set-up. The main issue is to not let the egt's get too high, and that is most likely why your guy set you up with a large turbo and told you to keep the boost low. He doesn't know our fuel systems other than they are TB injected, which usually means they can't handle much more boost. So, short of telling you to bring the car in and charge you an arm and a leg for major tuning, etc.. (that they probably can't do on this car anyway), he did the safe thing to tell you to keep the boost low. And like these guys are saying, you probably won't be able to supply enough fuel for much over 15 PSI on that turbo, even with the 1G MAS and RRFPR. I have the same items on my bell ported 17C and it can handle up to 18PSI, but that is with a big cam too. It doesn't nose over until well past 6500 RPM and runs like a Screamin'Banshee. I'd also have to think you do have the 06 hot side if you are noticing a quicker spool than your worn out 12A had. Its all good on your set-up if you ask me. You are doing the right thing and monitoring AF, but be sure to get that good boost gauge on there. The higher the boost, the more everything depends on each other to be working correctly. If the Fuel Pump can't keep up, or filters get clogged, it doesn't take much to detonate and hurt something. Before you know it, major damage occurs. If I were you, I would keep it where you know it is safe and be happy with that runnin' mo fo. When you want more, call those TBi guys who can hook you up! Stay doing things right, and it will last a very long time.
  7. It can't hurt to re-torque. I doubt the PO did, so you really should do it. It is a good idea because the new head will move some and find it's spot so to speak. This will always loosen some bolts like Tom said. Loosen them up one at a time and retorque before going to the next one.
  8. I hate to tell you, but the engine is not balanced and or blueprinted. No way, no how. This is a term that is 99.9% mis-used. If it were, you would be asking $7,500+ for it because you paid $10K to have it done. Maybe the crank, and rod/piston assemblies are balanced, but that's it. Why the low price? How much do you have in it?
  9. You have to be careful about buying these. The bushings are always cracked. You should make sure the seller states no cracks in the plastic bushing, or get a picture if cracked. They will work cracked, but for how long? I would search the local yards too. I find at least one Starquest in every city I travel to in the US yards. You can find one and examine its condition in person there.
  10. Glad it is working good now. There's nothing like protecting your investment with superior parts! Flushing radiators is for ones that are only a few years old. Ours almost always need rodded out at a minimum. The shop I take mine to will normally suggest putting in a 3 row core to replace the 2 row and that works very well for about $125.
  11. The 4:22 may look smaller to the eye due to less teeth. You should check it when you get it all apart.
  12. Did you used to live in Denver or Castle Rock? I seem to remember?
  13. Revving shouldn't have that much affect on it. The water pump doesn't have that much power. That indicates cylinder pressure getting into coolant passages. You should do a leak down check with a compression check again. Could be a clog, or TStat not opening, but most likely a larger problem such as wrongly routed hoses, etc.. Even if I don't use the heater, I like to keep it all plumbed as stock. The heater core is basically an emergency added cooler for the system. Run the heater if engine is getting hot because it helps to cool it. If the timing is not advancing, it will run extremely hot through the exhaust and heat up the engine. If the new ring seal is a bit too tight, it can heat up until they seat and loosen up a little especially on engines that are bored out.
  14. Good find! Lots of good parts to save! Anyone near there should pull the window regulators, steering column (if the coupler is in good shape), steering center link, and anything else that is NLA.
  15. Yeah, it looks to me like there may be some ring land damage with small pieces of aluminum loose in the chamber. Forged pistons are very resilient, but they can crack a ring land, or even crack a skirt if they detonate. The sputtering is something that is very easily mistaken for something else, such as the BOV, when really it is a subtle detonation. These engines are known for that. You should really do a leak down test first, so you can either rule in or out leakage to certain areas such as chamber to oil pan, intake, exhaust, other cylinders, etc... If it doesn't leak into the pan, then the rings and ring lands should be fine.
  16. A stock coupler does not give 'loose, unpredictable steering'. A bad one can, but not one in good condition. What will this one do when it gets worn, and how long will that take? I have stock ones in great shape with 150K+ miles on them. That said, this is definitely the best alternative one I've seen pictures of. At least it swivels, and thus will not directly transfer impact energy in a linear fashion with the column like a welded stock one will. This one is much safer than that, and won't transfer near as much vibration either. I'll bet it is quite tolerable considering most of us are already putting up with opened up exhaust, no balance shafts, upgraded cams, stiffer suspension, etc.. I'd have to think I wouldn't notice much difference, and maybe a preferred difference if any. A little tighter feel should be expected (although stock is not 'loose' in my opinion).
  17. Good topic with positives on both sides about the drain location. My experience in a general sense, is any time a change is made in respect to the factory oiling, you should do so with care, considering all options, and keep a close eye on it. In this case, you may want to pull the VC every so often to see if the guides are staying oiled well. Of course that is up for interpretation too. How well is well enough? The chain does not get much direct oil on it otherwise. Maybe some from the overflow hole in the pump, and the little block oil squirter up front there (if I remember right). If we are concerned about the oil being too hot, then I think that is a secondary issue from another and greater problem elsewhere, like the boost is turned up too high for the efficiency range of the turbo, the timing is too retarded, clogged oil cooler, etc...
  18. I wouldn't get your hopes up about swapping it in 4 hours to think you will be driving it the same day. If you need to remove one and install another, it will take most of the day, especially if there are parts that need swapped from one motor to the other. Take your time, do it right, etc.. You might want to have a new clutch disc at least ready too.
  19. So, did 'Paradise' originate from the words, "Pair Of Dice"? Or is that just the city in California?
  20. I've always thought the most of you Shelby. I am praying for you. We need you, so don't check out on us!
  21. Yes, you can run shims, or, like many cams, you can install custom valves which aren't nearly as expensive as they used to be. You can also get custom length valves hardened for much cheaper now than before too. I had custom stainless valves and the company said they could not get them hardened and said I had to use lash caps. So I did, but it was a very professional set-up that I don't recommend for any hydraulic head. Custom valve lengths with hardened tips will yield a set-up as good or better than OEM.
  22. Sounds like a plan. I'll do it. Thanks!
  23. Well, I cut the power steering belt off of my '85 today. It must have seized the pump because it melted a new belt! I forgot to check for sure because I was in a hurry to go pick up my daughter. This stuff always happens around tax time. Fortunately, I was at the alternator shop where I have my Mirage parked, so I just hopped in it until I can fix this. My wife's supercharged Buick sprung a fuel leak all over the top of the engine too. So I replaced the cheapo hard plastic fuel line with a regular fuel injection hose for $7 instead of whatever the dealer would want for theirs.
  24. I ordered the 4 engine one. There is a sucker born every minute, and this time I was it! LoL! It sounds good and I have some fairly new builds, and some higher mileage ones that I hope this will help both.
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