FBS

Hmm you seem like you know a bit about this. What exactly in the spline part is the cause of the clunking sound? Is it wear or lack of lubrication. Is it this part https://mksmotorsport.com/product/pre-order-torque-tube-flange-male-pinion-side/ How difficult is it to remove the torque tube assembly? The bearing you mentioned... any ideas where I might find one? Thanks

Hi Everyone.... Well now that I made it across the country safely to Tennessee.. Car ran superbly... used no oil... no problems. I am looking into something that has been there for some time but I have no idea what it is. When ever I shift gears I hear this very slight knock sound depending on how I smoothly I let the clutch out. If I am really smooth with the clutch I dont hear it all. There is not problem shifting in the transmission.. It sound like its coming from the back some place. I need to get it up on a rack some place so I can take a look. My first guess is that the torque tube rubber bushings are worn.. but thats a complete guess. If anyone has any ideas I would love to know. Thanks

Hi Ya'll, Well I completed a cross country trip from Oakland Oregon to Nashville Tennessee in my car. 2600 miles. I managed to do it in 3 days. I stopped in Idaho and in Nebraska to stay the night. The car performed flawlessly. In fact it did not use any oil the entire trip. I had the oil changed the day before I left and after all those miles...still same amount. The car got pretty warm in Idaho but all the fans worked flawlessly and there was never any problem. I will say that the seat was not so comfortable for all those miles. Well I am living now in Nashville area.. wonder if there are any other members in this area.... ? Send me a message if you live near here maybe we meet up some time... Fionnbharre

I would tend to agree with you on this. I talked to my father who I got the car from.. He had the entire cooling system cleaned out before I got the car. The car never overheated. Radiator looks really clean. Thanks for your input on this.

I put the manual switch on it because the cooling system is actually in really perfect shape other than that one thing...There is not a real need to run both fans all the time..I will use it when I have to come up the hill I drive up that is the only time I see any real change in engine temp. It does not have to make sense to everyone else.. I get why it seems pointless.. but not for me... I appreciate all your valuable input..

Hey Kev... thanks for the inspiration... I decided to take your advise. I grounded both fans with one little change. I added a simple switch inline on the second fan so I can turn it off if I want to. When in off position it is defaulted to normal operation. I replaced the Thermoswitch and it works correctly. Cheaper to replace fan than head and a lot less work. Thanks for your effort and sharing your experience.. I really appreciate it.

Hey Kev... thanks for the inspiration... I decided to take your advise. I grounded both fans with one little change. I added a simple switch inline on the second fan so I can turn it off if I want to. When in off position it is defaulted to normal operation. I replaced the Thermoswitch and it works correctly. Cheaper to replace fan than head and a lot less work. Thanks for your effort and sharing your experience.. I really appreciate it.

Hi Kev... thanks for your reply... The thing is that everything is working really well on the car. I dont really want to re-engineer the car just yet. But I see what you are saying. The #1 fan never comes on while driving on the highway...which is 90% of what I would drive, even when it was 95Degrees...Coolant temp is not reaching 185Degrees so car is staying pretty cool. Anyhow I think the least I will do is get new thermostats.. for both fans.

That makes sense to me. I noticed yesterday while I was driving that even though the outside air temp was about 95 Degrees... the cooling system temp gauge was only slightly warmer than normal when the outside temp is in the 60's to 70's. I like Texas Quests idea, I am wondering how that worked out. That would mean both fans come on at the same time. But still I also wonder if thats how Mitsubishi designed it why change it as long as its working correctly. I have never seen the primary fan come on other than me driving up my driveway which is steep and I dont go to fast. It did not even come on while driving around town at 95Degrees air temp.

Hi everyone, things are going well with the car. Summer is near and I am planning on taking a bit of a drive. The cooling system has been flushed recently, car does not appear to have any overheating problems. There is one thing though that bothers me. I have a long steep 1 mile driveway. Usually by the time I get to the top, temp needle is half way up and #1 cooling fan is on. i have yet to see the secondary fan cut in. I check the fan motor and the motor relay and both work perfectly. I have not checked the secondary fan Thermoswitch. When does this fan kick in? At what temperature. I’m considering installing a oil temp and water temp gauge so I can see the temps. Can anyone enlighten me on the secondary fan operating characteristics? Is there a way to test is complete operation? I have factory manual and could not find any definitive language on cut in temp and function. Maybe I am looking in the wrong area. BTW I have both manuals. Any help would be appreciated?

Thank you Jimmy.... much appreciated. I did not know that, I have 2 more TPS's to try out... I suppose if I have the same problem, Mike has a good solution though. I did go looking for alternatives and I found this... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mitsubishi,1987,van,2.4l+l4,1208371,fuel+&+air,throttle+position+sensor+(tps),5136 I wonder if anyone has investigated this.,... It looks identical except for the connector... and its for a 2.4Liter motor.. Fionnbharre

Ok.. so I hooked up the ECI checker to the system and it worked perfectly. I was able to read all the components in the system that I can read. I discovered a couple of things that may be a problem but I am not sure about it. It picked up that the Air Temp Sensor was sitting at almost 5 volts when it should have been about half that. I did a Ohm resistance test on that sensor directly using a controlled temp heat gun and a voltage test. The voltage test was strange. It would stay at 5 volts while I applied the heat gun temp at 170 Degrees and then suddenly jump to about .9 to 1. volt.. sometimes it would swing back and forth.. and when I removed the heat it took a couple minutes to change but it went strait to 5 volts after dropping slightly. The Ohm test seemed to show that it was closer to the correct specifications but not exactly. Its difficult to test it for the cold, all I could do was put it in a freezer for a few minutes and then take it out and read it. It was close to the correct value. The second thing that was off was the EGR Solenoid Valve voltage.... It was 0 the entire time.. nothing I did rpm wise changed it. The O2 sensor seemed off but when I replaced it with a new one I got the same results and it states that the testing of that sensor is also subject to other things so it may not be accurate. I tried checking the Self Test which is that harness located behind the side of the glove box when you open it... I checked it in the correct way and I only got the standard battery type voltage showing no errors. This corresponds to what the ECI Checker also told me ...except that it did not say the Air Temp Sensor was bad... or had an error. It also showed no error for O2 sensor. I did manage to reset the TPS/ISC... The car idles at around 950rpm. TPS is at .5volts... MPS... is .9 volts. So.. the car still does not run correctly.. meaning this. While pushing foot down on the accelerator pedal I can push it down slowly and the engine does not change until I get it down far enough. In that in between space there is a little what feels like a sputter... and then suddenly... the engine rpms pick up and catch up. It seems like the TPS is not telling the computer what its doing... thats my guess. but when I checked it on the Checker.... I watched it at .5 volts.. and then when I put my foot down it went to 4.5 volts.... Hmmm as I am writing this I realized I did not check and see if it was a smooth transition from .5 to 4.5 Maybe its not working correctly. The car seems jerky when driving down the road....when your foot is not accelerating ..... I have not tried to see how it starts when cold yet... tomorrow, but it did run with the Temp sensor hooked up correctly. I used the reset procedure that is on this forum... When I connected the temp sensor back to the sensor that is mounted up front of the radiator This is a jury rigged sensor.) the problem stops.. because its cooler and getting a different signal to the computer telling it to send more fuel. Lastly as I stated once before that my father installed a Cam in this when he replaced the head and put a non jet head on it. He said after he did this it never ran correctly any more. He also replaced the injectors that look like they are from MotoCam.... but I am not sure. I know this one mechanic that told me that when people put cam's in cars that do not have adjustable EMS they have problems. Maybe this is the cause of why it does not run right. I am curious what any of you might have to say about this

Ok... so I have to share my gratitude for Jimmy here... He unknowingly did me a HUGE favor. He posted this link to the Conquest Service Manual... The ECI Checker and Harness numbers are different in this manual than in the one I own for the 87 Starion. When I originally searched for those parts I used the ones in my manual and was not able to find the Harness because it had a different number. Jimmy had posted this so I download it on my computer. Last week when it came to me to take another look for those tools again I looked at the PDF Conquest version. First try on Ebay I found both... At the time I did not realize they were different numbers but are the exact same tools. I purchased them and only when I received them I checked them against the parts in the Starion manual... and got a rush of OH CRAP I ordered the wrong thing... after a short consultation with Texas Quest and my own digging.. I know they are the same tools, just different numbers... So Jimmy thank you for doing what you did and sharing that PDF with me.... otherwise I never would have found the ECI Checker and the correct harness... like the one in million... Some day I plan on changing out that system but until then I have something now to help me out that corresponds with the the procedures in the manual.... He won the day for me...

For a price you can still have one.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/MILLER-TOOL-MD998451-ECI-CHECKER-W-CABLES-B-F-INCOMPLETE-/144883350086?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c4#viTabs_0 Or here https://www.freedomracing.com/eci-checker-md998451-u.html Last I checked with them they still had it.... But the correct cable that I was able to find might be harder to find... you need the " A " Cable....