Tim_C.

I think the comp test is good enough to rule out a lifter. I agree it provides more information. I just don't think it is needed to find a miss when it has 130+ PSI. Most stock cam and head setups are light on the lifter preload. Like .015" when it should be .035". They can tick with light oil or just a little dirt in there to cause the lifter to not extend out. I still don't see that as the miss issue. Not sure about the Holley EFI, but the stock TBI required very clean injector clip electrical pins on both the clip and the injector. If the advance isn't retarding then that is still the most likely suspect. Either that, or I'm missing something about the Holley set up. I'm not familiar with it.

Pictures can be deceiving but it looks deeper to me, like it wouldn't work. What did you find?

Many times the pump leak is due to a gearbox issue. The wide body gear boxes wore out much faster than the narrow body. I figure it is because of the added stress on it. I rebuilt an '83 PS pump with the Rock Auto kit with no issues.

I would never run both fans all of the time. That's a band aid on a broken arm. With a properly working cooling system, you rarely need the first fan, let alone the 2nd. Fix whatever problem is causing the temp to rise before touching anything else. At most, you can run the 185 thermosensor in both locations or wire the secondary to come on with the primary but I never needed that after having the radiator professionally gone through.

Actually, you can use hydraulic shafts with mechanical rockers. Only the shaft area needs oil, so the extra hole to feed a hydraulic rocker doesn't hurt anything and actually provides more oil volume to the rocker. The extra holes are still covered by the mech rocker so there is no loss in oil pressure either. It's the other way around. You can't use a mechanical shaft on hydraulic rockers because there is no hole to feed oil to the hydraulic lifter. The shafts are the same diameter and everything is located in the same place.

Yeah, that's great!

Yes it needs to be from a non-intercooled from a 4 lug car.

'84 is actually a very good year for a reliable fuel system. This would be a great driver with an engine rebuild.

Looks like North Detroit. I'm going to that area for work next month.

Wow! This is a great opportunity for someone!

The factory fuse link design isn't worth duplicating. The design flaw in the fuse link is why you need a fuse link. LoL! It is best to solder in new links using the proper sized new fuse link wire. Get rid of that bogus link box. You can solder new link wire to the old terminals too. All they need is a good cleaning and maybe some tightening up on the female terminals.

Wow, that's like 2 PSI of free boost!

I remember that in Mesquite years ago. LoL! Wish I could do the same. Still travel for work about 60% of the time.

Reinstalling bushings and the assemblies back to the car body is best done by professionals who know the little tricks to helping them grip correctly and quietly. Some get grease on the inner diameter and some don't. It makes a big difference in the performance of the car. Done incorrectly and the bushings will slip around and contribute to sway like a large majority of the DIY'ers do. I chose to have pros finish my poly bushing assemblies and it was worth every penny.

I'm on the West Slope. I have an '86 ESiR. My sister used to live in Fountain, but they are up in the Springs now.