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Hi, I see that most of you that responded to my Warning Points post think that I give good information in trying to help you out, but disagree with the way I come off in answering posts sometimes. O.K. I will try and be more compassionate when responding to posts as I hope others will be towards me. Thanks, Bill

http://i.imgur.com/ugqEBQl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/KFXH3NF.jpg I think they're cool. Can't wait to see them on the car!

It's been 2 years since we closed our shop. Many people continued to ask me about parts so Diane and I started Dads Engine Parts LLC we went online today. link below. Dad Dads Engine Parts Llc.

me eather 23 like'd out of 37k posts waste of space

So this is a project 13 years in the waiting ... but I finally took to it this past week. At purchase, my car had a perfect rear cargo cover, which I was excited about b/c in all the other Quest sI had owned they were damaged. It was short-lived, b/c one month later a tree fell on my car, crushing the roof, hatch, ... and busting up my rear cargo cover. Well, that was 13 years ago already, so here's how I finally rebuilt it: Obviously remove the cover. You can see where the branches of the tree punctured the cover. I'm only repairing the lower section, but these steps could apply to rebuilding the whole thing if you needed to replace the fiberboard on the top section too. I started by peeling back the carpet on the left and right sides. Next, I flipped the cover over and peeled the carpet back. Oh look, all these years later still finding glass from the tree incident .... lol. Next, you'll need to drill out the rivets on the black hinge with a 3/16" bit. Once all the rivets are drilled out you'll have the hinge free. It still won't be free just yet though. Flip the cover back over and you'll find there's a material strip stapled to the cover. Grab your needle nose and pull the staples. Then the fiberboard material will finally be free. I had a scrap piece of 1/8 inch masonite laying around from a home project. It was just big enough to use a replacement piece. I simply used a sharpie and traced the outline on the masonite. These piece had some spray paint on it from other project, but I didn't care b/c I was going to be painting it black anyway. Next, use the hinge and mark the holes for the rivets. Not shown, but next I drill the holes and cut it out the shape on a bandsaw. I used some sandpaper on the edges quick just to smooth it over, but I didn't go crazy b/c there's no exposed edges of material, it's all covered by carpet. Now I threw some paint on. I quickly realized the black on the underside of the top section was not going to match anymore, so I tossed a coat of fresh black on the underside of that too so it all looked uniform. Now it's time to go back the other way. To reattach the carpet I purchased some Gorilla spray adhesive. I've also used 3M Super 77 for projects like this, and that works really well too, FYI. Don't start spraying things just yet though .... BEFORE you spray adhesive the carpet and put the board back on, you need to put screws through the holes you drilled b/c you won't be able to access them once it's adhered to the carpet. I just used simple machine screws to replace the rivets. Flip it over carefully so your screws don't fall out. Once you do that, spray the board and the back of the carpet and let it dry for a few seconds before putting it down. I quickly dropped on washers and loosely threaded nuts on the screws. Once the carpet is adhered well you can flip it upside down again and roll the remaining edges over. Spray everything down with adhesive and it'll stick nice. Lastly, re-attach the rubber gasket on the rear edge. It just presses on. Here it is re-installed in the car. Much better. Good luck. It's a pretty easy little project. You can do it.

You should make an SQ one that smells like broken dreams.

go to bed.... check wake up december 22..... check go about normal life..... check laugh at the dumb people who panicked.... check yeah, i can predict the future, thats what im doing

Happy new year my friends, To thank all our loyal customers for another great year there will be free shipping on orders over $100.00 of Starquestparts. This goes for the entire site from bearings to cylinder heads. This runs from Jan 1- 2025 to Jan 15th- 2025 so get your list ready!. http://www.dadsengineparts.com Thank you! Dad

Breaking news Mitsubishi will be trying to reboot their brand by bringing back the starion and 3000gt as a pickup and minivan, respectively

So as most of you know I've been killing myself to get my car ready for the race last weekend ( Ultimate Street Car Association/ Optima Batteries Qualifier @ Auto Club Speedway in Fontana) Long story short the hard work payed in full. The car was extremely competitive the whole weekend winning most events in all classes, let alone the gt2k (under 3k lbs class) The wider track, better tires and overall look of the car took it home. I beat the living hell out of it like always and it took it in strides. Couldn't be happier with her. Finally I got my ticket back to SEMA for another shot at the title of the Ultimate Street Car. Took first in all events except for the auto x by .3 secs to a nascar framed pickup (No Limit Racing C10) MONSTER haha There are 6 qualifier events left throughout the country, I GUARANTY you will have the most fun you've ever had in your car. Visit www.ultimatestreetcarassociation.com for the list. SIGN UP! On to pics. Video soon, got some editing to do. Thank you to all who have posted in the "going wider" thread, you guys really keep me motivated to continue pushing. I received TONS of coverage, TV, websites and prolly a few magazines in the process. The value of our cars is on the rise! http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/DSC_3397_zpsbb1f43fd.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/DSC_3420_zpsc3eab0d4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/DSC_3432_zps02ba9ada.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/DSC_3447_zpse81c4053.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/DSC_3488_zps97d9afd6.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/DSC_3440_zpsc0b1fb67.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/DSC_3459_zps3f828a21.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/DSC_3527_zps26a3e741.jpg

Great fitting Silicone vacuum lines, fits 4.0 and 4.5mm ports on Conquest and Starion, nice snug fit. $1.25 a foot. http://www.dadsengineparts.com

Hello all...It's been a long time since I've been here. I apologize for my absence, but life took a turn and I had to focus on other things. I've had several texts, calls, and emails over the years. It's been great to hear from some of you. We just bought our first house, and while going through boxes and such, came upon one of the calendars I did for the club. A lot of good memories came rushing back, so decided to log on and see what's what. I hope the SQ community is still going strong. Give a shout and say hi. Cheers, Nick

I have had rear differential gaskets reproduced for the Starquests, I also stock the axle seals and front pinion seals. You can get them at my site http://www.dadsengineparts.com Well I tried uploading a picture 48kb in size and get a message I can only upload file no more than 53.7 kb ?????

Good evening fellow enthusiasts, It was suggest ( i think it was Jimmy) that I should post and reintroduce myself to the group since so many things have changed here. I'm pretty sure there are some that know me but there may be others that don't. I got involved in the Starquest scene by My son ( screen name Kreal) in 2004, he had bought a Quest and had some issues with it and introduced me to the forums so I can help fix it using his account. I would use his account and just sign Dad when I posted anything. I had Started an Engine rebuild/ Machine shop in 1989 Doing work on mainly industrial and Truck engines ( cat, Cummins, Intl etc) There is more $$ in the diesel, although we did work on basically anything going down the road, Just the engines we didn't work on the equipment. So getting back to the forums, I would see at times questions or posts on head rebuilding or block boring- you know basic machine work, so I would chime in and help answer questions, Well you know how young kids on forums can be difficult, well my son misbehaved and got a suspension for I don't know maybe 10 days or something and they said Hey, you can't share accounts. Well Ok, I will make my own and was thinking of a screen name, well everyone knew me at the time as "Dad" so that became my screen name. As I got more into the forums and people found out I had a shop they asked if I could get parts? Sure, that's my business so we started to handle parts for these cars, My son totaled his in 2004 and had to part it to recoup some $$ and found a market for used parts, Dragging wrecked and rusted Quests to my shop. That is how I got my white Quest that I rebuilt and painted in 2007. My other son Bill took an interest and decided he wanted to restore one, He went full bore and I think his story might still be on the boards His name was Coldscrip. Anyway we supplied parts, And I even rebuilt engines for these from Florida to Maine and west to Missouri Our parts business was a good hobby- to be honest I made more selling a caterpillar overhaul kit than a quest kit, But meeting the Quest people was way more fun, As time went on we met more people mainly at Pidgeon forge meets, Our collection of running quests grew to 6 in the family, Sadly in 2020 my building I had leased got put up for sale- forcing me to relocate after 31 years in business, At 62 I said, nope not during this Covid mess, I'm not doing it, I quickly sold off the equipment and closed the doors, I needed room so sold My 87 Shetland and My 83 Starion. I did keep My first Quest the white 87. I took a few months off, added on my garage, took a parts job at a Navistar dealer then at a Chevrolet dealer. We kept in touch with our Quest friends and many kept asking if we would sell parts again ( We, meaning the Wife and I who was a big help in my business), So Her and I decided to start offering parts again and In January of 2023 we opened Dads Engine Parts LLC. I just recently retired but may find something part time to keep me busy. So here is my intro to the folks that may not know who we are. After 31 years in Machine shop business I made a lot of connections with suppliers and reconnected with many of them, Wiseco still make My custom forged pistons that I got licensing from Midwest turbo when they closed. My Oem Mitsubishi connections, although I know get more direct from Japan and of course my aftermarket suppliers. We still have 3 Quests in the family, I pretty much Use what I sell, just recently installed a fuel tank in My son's quest, Sourced out the fuel pump, Fuel feed lines, Filler tube hoses, Fuel drain plug ( took a few tries to find ones that seal well) so after documenting what I used I am able to offer those to the community saving tons of trial and error searching for what you need- That's what I'm about. We have been expanding our line as we go ( we are still trying to make room for parts) Unfortunately I no longer offer any type of machine work. So that in a nutshell is what Dads Engine parts ( Formerly Engine Machine service) is all about, I stick with what works like the same brand of timing kits and cylinder heads I was using 15 years ago as long as they aren't discontinued Been on this forum for 20 years now so if you need parts or some advice especially in the Engine part feel free to contact me. check out my site www.dadsengineparts.com Not sure if the mods need to move this I wasn't sure exactly where to put it so I put it here. Have a great day Dad ( Randy)

The Diagram file:///C:\Users\Jimmy\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.jpg The list of ports (22 in all) 1. Vacuum Retard Diaphram (directly on top of the distributor) 2. Top Port on the TB, right where the OVCP meets the TB 3. Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (black box on the drivers side of the VC) 4. Thermo Valve (2 ports) 5. EGR (3 ports) 6. SACA Solenoids (5 ports) 7. Main Vacuum source (3 ports) 8. Bottom port, this feeds the vac storage, cruise, and runs to the vac pump in front 9. Vacuum Storage (not pictured), mounted to the side of the shock tower 10. Cruise Control (not pictured), mounted to the front of the shock tower 11. Vacuum pump (not pictured), mounted right beside the drivers headlight 12. Purge Control Valve (2 ports), directly under the aircan Now, depending on what you're wanting to do with your car, your position on the environment, and whether or not you need a smog test to get a state inspection, it's possible to remove some of the vacuum lines and clean up the engine bay a LOT. For a pure race car you'd probably just need 1 stock line (slightly relocated), that'd be a line running from the top of the TB (labeled #2), to the Vacuum Retard Diaphram (labeled #1), this is the only line that is an absolute necessity. However, if you want, for example, your inside head & foot vents to work properly, you'll need to keep the line running from the bottom of the TB (labeled #8 ) going to the Vacuum Storage canister (labeled #9) (+ the single, small vacuum line running from it's nearest "T" into the firewall [not pictured or labeled]). Since this comes up frequently I'll address it here, the vac port you use for a BOV is labeled Main Vacuum Source (#7), you'll use the one closest to the firewall if you're looking at it from the drivers side fender. If you need a smog test to pass a state inspection you'll probably need to keep everything, each vacuum assisted item has its place. If you've removed the catalytic converters you won't be needing the Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (labeled #3), it supplies fresh air to the catalysts.

They are set up for production. Modeled in CAD with CNC machined fixtures and all parts are CNC machined for perfect repeatable fitment.

Lot of stuff has been added to the site https://www.enginemachineservice.com/ems/index.php

I always got projects going on .. winter and every other season in between ... 😁 Some of you who have been around for a while will remember StarquestJoe, I purchased a Galant VR4 he had sitting in his backyard after a few years of asking him about it. My son was 10 at the time, and my thought was if we started restoration on it we could maybe be done by the time he was 16. So we have been working on that for the past 3 years. So far, most of the work has been just building the motor. We had to tear everything down, send it all out to be machined and cleaned and then put everything back together. In the meantime, the car has been in storage at my father-in-laws shop. At this point the motor is pretty much finished ready to go, so it's time to bring the physical car home and start working that. I want to go over the brakes, suspension and drop the gas tank and see what's going on there. That will be our winter project. To get started though I have to find a storage place to keep my Eclipse. I have a few leads on some garages, but it's been tough between work and weather to get the car dropped off and in storage. I have a 3 car garage, but I need to get rid of one car in order to bring his home and begin work on it. I hate to send the Starion out of my sight since I have so much into it, so Eclipse is the winter storage candidate. I've never stored a car before, and I'm finding it out it's not cheap. I have a fully detailed thread going on on DSM Tuners of the VR4 resto you can click through when you're bored here: Galant VR4 Restoration Here's a few pics though just to give you the idea. Thus far, I've enjoyed this project more than any other I've done in the last 25 years. Teaching my son and watching become passionate about the hobby and have his ideas and dreams has been really cool. This is what we started with. Supposedly Joe got this 4G63 from StarquestRescue, another name many of you will remember well. This a picture of the car the day after we picked it up and brought it back to the shop. The car itself has been and had been sitting for a while, so if it doesn't work out we can always buy a 1G, 2G or even another VR4 and drop our engine in. So we have options. It been a long road so far and the Eclipse and Station don't get as much attention right now, but this hopefully will worth it in the end.

"TURBO" Door handles are tough to find, and they are tougher to find in decent shape. If you like the look, and want the look, here's a cheap and easy way to create it. First, start by removing your door handles. I won't go over how to do that here, but there are posts you can find. I'll try to link one up later. Next, you'll need a set of the "TURBO" stickers. They are available on eBay, or, you can have your own made. I had a graphic artist friend make these for me. I think the ones on eBay are about $5. If you've ever seen a "real" set of turbo handles, they are perfectly smooth. Conversely, the "standard" handles are textured. They have what I call a knurling on them. You need to carefully sand that off smooth. I used my palm sander and rotated through 150, 220 and some 400 by hand. When you're done, it should look like this. Once you are this far the "black" on the handles will be kinda dull and flat looking. We need to bring that back to a shine to have a look correct. For this I grabbed some buffing compound and a buffing wheel. After some polishing you should be able to get the handles to look like this. Now we can sticker them up. Do some measuring and get everything centered up. Peel back the covering ... and ... ta-da! $5 TURBO door handles. Last thing I did to these that I didn't show was a took a can of clear spray paint and just gave them a light coating a day later to help prevent the stickers from peeling up.

I sent Ryddler a message and asked him to update the home screen. Jimmy

I've been following about the development of these on IG as he's been posting about them. It's not for me, but I'm just glad someone out there is still developing stuff for this platform. I have more than a few Mookeeh parts on my car.

I'm actually restoring a Galant VR4 right now with my son. We're about 2 years in.

At the end of the last driving season, I noticed my antenna wasn't retracting all the way, so I figured it's time to dig in and see if we can fix this thing. First, you'll need to remove a few carpet panels in the rear trunk area. Once they are out of your way, you need to remove two nuts. The second one is under the rear deck support sheet metal. To get it out, you'll have to drop it down into the rear fender and snake the antenna part out first, It's a little tricky, but with some finagling you'll be able to sneak it out. Don't forget to remove the ground screw just below the upper nut too. Once you get it on your bench you can pop the on side off and you'll see all the gearing. On the other half you'll see the electrical connections. You can see there are contacts that ride on the metal surface as the gears spin. Clean up and re-lube the electrical side up with dielectric grease. That's all you need to do to that side. While you're at it, grab some White Lithium Grease too. If you don't have any make a trip to your local Auto Store. Give all the plastic gear a good cleaning, get all the dried up gunk off and re-coat everything with the White Lithium Grease. Next, flip the whole unit over and we'll move over to the mast. There is a plastic housing that has the retract tape inside. It's coiled in there like a snake in a can. Pop it off and will sorta burst out. Mine was nasty. It takes some time, but clean the tape entirely. I used Simple Green. Then re-lube the whole tape with a generous amount of White Lithium Grease. It's a bit tricky, but recoil it into the housing and put everything back together. Then reinstall in your car. Hold your breathe and give it shot. Here's a video link to mine working again! Starquest Rear Antenna Video

Just a few months ago I created a YouTube video on how to rebuild your rear brakes and the e-brake mechanism. I posted a link to the video on the club, but I forget where I posted it. Either the BS section or the VR. I'll see if I can find the link for you. Also you can still buy brake rebuild kits at Rock Auto. They only cost a few bucks.

What does ruing mean? Oh it must be the word used for making something faster more reliable and far better than your car .... Yeah that sounds right.

I just like talking crap. Except for BOHO. Im 100% serious about the things I will do to his mouth! Most engines can suprise. Thats maybe what I like about the out dated, under powered, unsupported G54B. I was at a shop a day ago inquiring about using their dyno and when he asked what I had, I said, "just a crappy 4 banger" he laughed and said, "cant be that bad" he asked more and when I told him what it made and what it runs he laughed and said, thats better than 90% of the cars I see. talked about SRT-4's, Mustangs, Supras, 240's and other V8's. Then I told him it was a single stick 8 valve head and he laughed in amazement. All well built cars are cool as long as they are DIFFERENT.

I would have liked this twice if I could have.

I told my wife to put my ashes in the trunk of the car, that way if she gets stuck in the snow she can use it for traction. Dad

Stupid kids holding their iphone verticle to record video. I bet the hold their guns sideways too.

damn you and all your space... to park stuff...or sit..or run around..or do whatthe*********ever you want. damn you!

No one ever calls me. http://i1.kym-cdn.com/entries/icons/original/000/003/619/Untitled-1.jpg

great, so even a chrysler engineer couldn't get it to run and gave up.

Some time ago I was trying to grab the VSS Signal from the read switch to input into my ECU. Someone else was also trying to do the same. I think that post was lost during the great outage. Anyways... after many electronics projects and owning a volt meter (and properly know how to read circuit diagrams) I finally figured it out. The VSS Signal comes from a reed switch. That reed switch only switches a ground signal. You can grab the signal from one of the connectors, but I wanted to do non-destructive. I grabbed a ring terminal and attached it under the screw directly to the right of the speedometer. You want to use the lower of the two screws. I'm going to call it VSS-Out This is a floating ground. So to use the signal, you need to add a pull up to 12v (for most applications, 5v for others). This gives you a high signal (+12v or +5v) as the normal state and a low signal (ground) when the switch activates. There are 4 pulses per revolution, resulting in a square wave (⎍⎍⎍) . This should work for just about any ECU unless the ecu is expecting an AC Sine wave or VR Signal. You will need to attach a diode inline from VSS-Out if you are expecting the intermittent wipers to still work, abs, or the cruise control. The line on the diode should point towards the cluster. Attach a wire to the opposite side of the diode with a 10k resistor and connect the other leg of the resistor to 12v. Then from the side of the resistor opposite 12v you can attach the wire to the ECU. I attached a basic diagram

I keep obsessing over nit-picky little details, but aside from some fuel lines, this thing is just about ready to get put in place. The PCV is overly complicated. Whether or not it’ll actually make a difference, there are two separate systems,…. One for boost, and one for vacuum. When the engine is in boost, a 12v valve will open and let any excess crankcase blow by out through a -10 at the back of the valve cover that is routed to the big puke tank up front. During normal operation, the 12v valve is closed and a second pcv valve will allow air to move through the crankcase into the intake plenum after it get passed through an oil separator mounted on the opposite side. It sounds logical to me, we’ll see how it works. Im especially proud of my home made LS coil pack mount that will hang where the P.S. pump used to be. I didn’t want them on the valve cover, and this was the only place to put the things.

Johnny Wadd has a post from 2013 in this section on how to do this, but like so many other threads, all the pics are missing, so here's my recreation of this process: You can remove the console latch with the center console still installed in the car. You do NOT have to remove it the whole console unless you want to for some reason. For this tutorial, this console was already removed. First, remove the flocked bin/cubby inside your console by prying up on it. It'll pop out. Next, remove the two hinge bolts that hold the lid. The lid will be removable at this point. Now remove the 4 larger screws you see. Under the map lid you will find 5 smaller screws. Remove all five. Remove the hard plastic piece and you'll have access to the latch. If it's broken, it may just fall out. Don't lose the spring. Wrap the coil spring around your new / or repaired console latch like so. Back in the lid there are two VERY small pin holes. Carefully feed the two posts on the coil spring into the console lid pin holes and snap the latch gently into place. It should look like this. Reverse the process and put the map holder back in with the 5 screws. If the spring is installed properly the latch will be "sprung" into a downward position. When latched, it'll sit in a downward position like so. The act of pulling up on it will unlatch it and allow you open the console lid. The plastic tab on the latch should catch on the plastic ledge cast into the console as shown. That's it. You've replaced, or repaired your center console latch. Reinstall the rest of the screws as necessary put your lid back on the console and enjoy your ride on step closer to perfection!

After a lot of thinking, I've decided against selling. My two kids said that I can't sell my "race car"

** For anyone viewing this Resto Thread there is about 6 years of posts and conversation missing. I have all the pics still, so I may try to rebuild it, maybe not. Of course it will be missing all the real-time replies and conversation. For now, I will at least start at the beginning and work my way through re-linking all the broken pictures so that what's here is viewable. UPDATE 8/17 - All previous posts pic links have been re-linked. Posts from this point forward will be all reconstruction.

I want to get a list of guys interested in these that are serious about purchasing. I am currently making them in very low numbers and have 2 sets almost ready to ship. The price is $2300 plus shipping. They will be trimmed long and will need to be professionally installed. They will be coming straight out of the molds. As of right now I'm looking to do 5 Sets.. $1000 deposit due immediately. Please let me know if your interested and serious. These are not for the faint of heart or the "purists" by any means. A LOT of cutting is required. These will make your car 6" wider overall and will allow for 335s in the rear, 315s up front, depending on your wheels. UPDATE! Those who have sent deposits, please send final payments as soon as possible, I will be ready to ship in the next few weeks and can provide quotes as soon as they are boxed up! As far as shipping: I am building frames inside the boxes to ensure strength and safety of the parts. They will be stamped fragile and insurance can be provided at your expense. I'm searching every shipping method available to make this as cheap as possible for you guys. If you have a business address to send them to, it will reduce the cost. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/DSC_3440_zpsc0b1fb67.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG2164_zps8a05873d.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/DSC_3459_zps3f828a21.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/untitled-75-X3_zpsacf47935.jpg 1 Leefser------------Deposit sent 2 speedyquest 3 Tae ----------------Deposit sent 4 needsq------------Deposit sent I'm going to post these elsewhere in a few weeks, deposits will secure your set. Paypal is JLazorack@gmail.com

But I figured I'd share and maybe it'll inspire a few others to reach out as well. Perhaps with enough of us contacting them asking for support, they'll throw us a few bones? Not sure, figured it was worth a shot. Here's what I sent, as a template: Hello Godspeed, I'm a huge fan of your products, my RX7 ran GS coilovers and my Mazdaspeed Miata will as well. I am writing on behalf of a tiny yet powerful community of enthusiasts who drive the 1986 through 1989 Mitsubishi Starion and Chrysler Conquest models. I don't know how familiar one may be with that particular marque but these cars are amazing and, while I am already in possession of coilovers, it would be amazing to see more support for these cars. With your help, we can keep a dying breed of car from fading away. The limit also doesn't have to be drawn at suspension: These cars are turbocharged from the factory but with limited support we are stuck performing lots of custom and one-off modifications. Godspeed turbochargers, intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, radiators, intercoolers, brake setups, etc would all prove to be a huge benefit to our community and you would nearly have a monopoly on it as, mentioned previously, the support for our cars is slowly fading away each year. While our numbers aren't extreme, there are more than enough Starion and Conquest drivers to make parts manufacturing worth while, the passion from each driver would ensure that your sales numbers are adequate and that research, design and development costs are promptly met! I'm also sure that there are no shortage of persons who would either: 1. Be willing to let Godspeed use their car for testing. or 2. Have a second Conquest/Starion for testing purposes. I understand this request may be a bit extreme, but I promise that if you at least give us a shot at having some parts made, we'll return the favor with a rather sizable and loyal customer base. Thank you, David Adams

clean it up or remove it, WE DON'T NEED THIS DRAMA ON SQC ! take it else where...

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You mean Pickles could have turned his fans on in case the tech had to run the car??? wow. go figure, he drives in a construction zone, hits bumps, blames the contractor- I'm sure he was the only car that went there at 2:30 pm. Then has the front end checked and the shop is gonna pay for his head gasket job. Lucky sob is all i can say. Sure can manipulate the peeps.

Final deposit received. Here we go!

I'll try to find others from the event, they are poping up all over now.

"Then God looked over all that he had made, and behold, it was good. And evening passed and morning came, marking the sixth day. Thus the Heavens and the Earth were completed in their vast array." Then God took a day off...just long enough for the serpent to convince the builder of this car that it was actually a good idea.

so many people carry concealed weapons these days I am amazed when something like this happens where a couple hundred people are gathered and not a single person returns fire----this guy had body armor of some sort on so majority of peoples concealed hanguns probably would not have done much but maybe would have gotten the guy to cease his slaughter after getting hit a couple times----i will not sit here and say shoot for the legs or a head shot cause with all the chaos precision shots would be next to impossible in that enviornment-----another thing is hitting innocents when returning fire wich is problematic----all I know is stuff like this makes me feel better about always having a loaded handgun on my person anywhere its legal to do so----just my thoughts gig out

http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/P6300568.jpg

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