Fullbore576 Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 Vehicle in question:87 Conquest, 14G, 89ECM, airbox mod, 21/2"exh, other small mods. About five years ago I replaced the headgasket with an AJUSA steel headgasket and ARP head bolts(not studs). Withen the last year i've noticed oil weeping in certain areas of the head gasket. I know its not from the valve cover, its clean above the areas. Should I replace it with another AJUSA or just a typical Fel-Pro set?Is there another headgasket on the market that holds up as well? I know its kind of a no brainer question, but i'm always interested in input and seeing what other guys are running and what works for them. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 I say get a fel pro. Cheaper and just fine. Also, check that your timing cover is relatively flush with the block deck height. Also tighten up your timing cover bolts just in case they are loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 I find it hard to believe it is leaking oil at head gasket. I'd bet it's from somewhere at valve cover, there is only one passage that is under pressure and that is front right corner. Drain back is at rear of head and it's gravity, not pressure. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 I'm with Randy (Dad), extremely unlikely. What you can do is check your head stud torque and make sure they are all in spec, especially if you didn't do it after a couple of heat cycles back when you originally put it all together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fullbore576 Posted March 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 I'm with Randy (Dad), extremely unlikely. What you can do is check your head stud torque and make sure they are all in spec, especially if you didn't do it after a couple of heat cycles back when you originally put it all together. I have check them periodically, they seem ok. Would torq be different with the ARP headbolts?(not studs) so my car is a vin N produced 5/87. Will the Fel Pro kit# HS 8770 PT-3 work? It states this kit fits up to 2/87. Some sites I have looked at show that a vin H and a vin N will work. So far I havent been able to find kits for vehicles after 2/87 unless it is for 88-89. Very confusing. What kit have you guys used for 87s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) 9116 is the better gasket but both will work ...o riellys 61.00 buckskis top end set ..... Edited March 15, 2014 by markhansenconquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87B71Brad Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 I'm with dad too. There is only one oil passage between deck and head. It's highly unlikely that its leaking. 8770 and 9116 felpro will work. 9116 is thicker than the 8770 gasket. f the block and head was decked than the 8770 will be fine. I used the 9116 gasket just because I didn't deck my block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 Sure it's not the timing cover gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fullbore576 Posted March 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 9116 is the better gasket but both will work ...o riellys 61.00 buckskis top end set ..... Thanks! That clears up alot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fullbore576 Posted March 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 Sure it's not the timing cover gasket? I did timing chain and gears last winter, so those gaskets have been replaced. The more I think about it(DAD being right as usual)most of the leakage seems to be towards the back especially on the starter side. I guess doing a valve cover gasket would be a place to start and determine leakage from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87B71Brad Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 I did timing chain and gears last winter, so those gaskets have been replaced. The more I think about it(DAD being right as usual)most of the leakage seems to be towards the back especially on the starter side. I guess doing a valve cover gasket would be a place to start and determine leakage from there. Check the little rubber plug that the rocker assy sits on. It's on the back, directly behind the cam. Did you use a small amount of rtv or some sort on the insides of that "hump" towards the back on your valve cover gasket? I forgot one day and had a leak there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fullbore576 Posted March 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 Check the little rubber plug that the rocker assy sits on. It's on the back, directly behind the cam. Did you use a small amount of rtv or some sort on the insides of that "hump" towards the back on your valve cover gasket? I forgot one day and had a leak there. I will definitlly check that. Thanks for that tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 Definitely check that cam plug in the back. I actually had one fly out while going down the interstate only to have all of the oil fly out with it. luckily no harm was done. But, you definitely don't want that to happen. also, I would quote, but my phone won't allow it on this site. Anyway, to what was posted above, which of those two felpro numbers 8770 and 9116 is for the decked motors? The explanation seemed to sound opposite of what it should be. I have a milled head and need a slightly thicker HG. Sorry to hijack, just caught my attention. hahah. - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 The felpro 8770 is what most use including myself. It's the thinnest gasket. The 9116 is a hair thicker and was used on 88-89 cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 9116 was used on the 88-89 years, maybe because boost was higher? Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Honestly I've searched for hours on this site and all over the internet. Short of calling fel pro directly (and the odds that whoever answers has a clue what I'm talking about...?) I cant find an answer on which one is better and for what situation. One is thicker one is thinner. One costs more than twice the other. One lists for naturally aspired and lower boost models whilen one lists for a.model with only 3psi more boost. All interchange. Flip a coin I say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 I'm just looking for a thicker HG for my milled head. it was milled a little too much. a specialized friend said it shouldn't be enough to make the car run bad. but I can't afford an adjustable cam gear so a HG is cheaper lol. Again, sorry to hijack - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) don't they make a shim .020 thick and 9116 is graphite....the other is not ...look on rock auto for shim under head gasket... Edited March 16, 2014 by markhansenconquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 no machine shop their salt would not machine a head that much ,, you actualy have a paper weight now .. a head should be straightened then surfaced then a cut of .003 " is normal if done right once cut wrong there is no way to correct for the screw up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 There's easily ways to compensate. The easiest would be a thicker HG. I don't trust shims. - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 But isnt the 9116 thicker in the box but softer? So I'm pretty confident that once you torque it down both fel pro will be the same thickness. I doubt a company like fel pro would make various thicknesses when that can alter timing. If anything you can make an adjustable cam gear with a power drill and protractor. Check out the S.O.S. and professor quest's info. Also pull the rocker assembly and make sure the cam spins freely by hand, otherwise you truly have a fancy paper weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 it's a reman'd head I got from a friend. whoever had it milled wasn't too intelligent. it can be managed as is, but a HG is ideal. I've already got different holes drilled in the gear for different degrees off. that way I can change it in car without pulling the head. done it before. the head is perfectly fine cam, rockers, and all. just the bottom is not how I'd like. I'll manage. The HG thickness comment caught my eye. Thanks! - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 I've zlways used the 8770 with no problems. The one thing that many folks neglect is to retorque after a few hot/cold cycles, and not boost until it's done. Doesn't matter what Felpro says, you've GOT to retorque. You'll find things have loosened up when you do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Torque them ARP studs to 100, then check 'em after a day of driving easy. Also 8770. Isn't it like 23 dollars? I used it, but with an o-ringed block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) nightwalker.........the metal shim is locked in place with head dowel pins...will not move out of place..theirs shims in trans.?..have too make up to met specs.... I use shims in dies that stamp out metal , 100 tons of pressure...... some times its the only way to save something that is to small.....isn't that( Azusa )a metal head gasket...if it is all metal.... its a shim ..ask (dad) how thick they are Edited March 16, 2014 by markhansenconquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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