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nightwalkerancestery

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About nightwalkerancestery

  • Birthday 08/13/1993

Profile Information

  • Interests
    G54B, Datsuns, More Power, Electronics, Music!, Bowling
  • Location
    Saluda, VA
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    23149
  • Model
    Starion
  • Type
    ESI-R
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Transmission Type
    Auto
  • Factory Color
    Bordeaux Red
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    Restoring

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  1. Maybe I'm getting confused. From what I understand, bleeding the MC in car is to undo the brake lines there with the pedal pressed and then tighten back up once it hits the floor. Fluid goes everywhere, but that's what I've heard on how to do it. Is it possible to get the air that's stuck in the MC out by doing the caliper method you mentioned with the pump? I've got a spare pump that I can easily use. I'll try that regardless. From what I hear, it's harder to get the air out of the MC because it often won't all get to/through the lines. - Charles
  2. So, instead of pushing the pedal fast to pump it, just pump it slowly a few times to the floor, hold, and release a caliper bleeder, and repeat until straight fluid comes from each caliper? - Charles
  3. I feel as though most basic standard transmissions will do this. I've watched a driver get out of his racecar to celebrate when parked on a bank and while he celebrated you could see the car lurch back a few inches at a time. It'd move a couple inches and then stop. Move a couple inches then stop. Obviously he didn't really care cause he planned to get back in the car before it got in danger if hitting something. I've never tried to park on an incline without the parking brake, but I could see it being the case. - Charles
  4. That's the one thing I didn't do. I read about that possibility last night through my searches. I figured doing the two person method of one pushing the pedal and the other loosening the valve would have shot any further air out. That was at least the thought I got from my father. I should have known by now not to listen to him. Lol. I got a TON of air at the start, but that has since stopped and is now just straight fluid. What would be the in-car bleeding procedure be for the MC? I read a few hints, but never found a detailed process. - Charles
  5. Well, this chapter is coming to an end only so a new one can start. It was a hair over two years, two months ago that I picked up my 87 from Richmond, VA. Like many, she sat for about eight years prior to my ownership. She had electrical issues from stupid previous owners, the engine was locked up, and all kinds of other...stuff. Anyway! I got her with the intentions to rebuild the motor, fix the electrical issues, and just drive and enjoy her. Quickly, that turned into much more and before I knew it she was undergoing a full nut and bolt restore. Despite being a full restore with all new/rebuilt parts, it was still a budget build. I've spent countless hours... late nights going into early mornings... gallons of blood spilled from the cuts and slices from hitting this or slipping on that... tears from watching my bank account disintegrate. All of this has been non stop for over two years along with going to college beyond full time. 99.9% of the work was done by yours trully. The ONLY work that was outsourced was to two machine shops. One to install and machine for new valve guides and the other to press on and off the inner pinion bearing for the rear diff. That's the ONLY two things that I didn't do. A total price of $75 for those two things. With all the penny pinching... hours upon hours of research... rockauto discounts... I can firmly state that the total price of work plus initial purchase adds up to under $3k. However, all that time spent and watching her turn into a shell and then back to a car does something to a person. That moment that the car starts... that moment that the car is thrown into gear and you let the clutch pedal out to the grabbing point and you feel that car moving under its own power. Those moments are when it all becomes unbelieveable. Those little things you did to get her to where she is. Those tiny details that only you'll see. It's the moment that pride really sets in and that $3k turns into "priceless". I feel that even if I were offered $4 million for her, I would immediately decline. It's hard to impossible to put a price on something so personal and meaningful. At a point it becomes about so much more than money. That's my story. Have I inspired you? Do I pull at the strings tied to your throttle plates? What's YOUR story? - Charles
  6. Just a note...those sway bars are the same size in 87s. The 21/19 bars were on 87-89 and maybe even 86. I believe the only cars with smaller anti-sways were flatbodies, but not positive if it includes the 85.5 or 86. If needed I can measure the ones on my 86. - Charles
  7. Getting SO close to the end of my restore. I can't complain with the few issues I've had as none of them have been a detrimental issue. However, one of the current ones is the only thing really keeping her from taking a trip down the road. During the restore I replaced everything, everywhere. That means new hard lines...New soft lines...fully rebuilt calipers front and back...New e-brake cables. The whole 9 yards. After bleeding every corner I got pedal feel and it was great, except that I noticed when I depress it slowly, it goes to the floor. Here are the scenarios as of current... Push pedal suddenly, it stops almost immediately. Super firm. Push pedal slowly, it goes to the floor. Push pedal slowly to the floor, bring it back out only PART way, and press again, firm pedal feel at every point no matter how hard or soft until brought completely back out. After the first bleed, I found a small leak at the MC at the block that feeds both front calipers. I fixed the leak and rebled, but I didn't get any air from any calipers. What do you guys think? Air in the MC somewhere? Air in the lines? P.S. I rebuilt the MC with good spare seals. - Charles
  8. I running the same combo as you from a different manufacturer and they rated the combo at 475 lbft. That coupled with the two step surfacing I had done to the flywheel, I'm sure it'd hold a good 500 lbft on the fresh disc. Just to help give you an idea of your combo capacity. - Charles
  9. Isn't it, though? I just bought a cheap electronic one online last night as a tester to see if it cures the problem. I've already spent $25 on flashers, so I figured I'd use a cheap one first to make sure it cures the problem before spending $12 to have it not work. I'll let you know how that works out. Thanks, bud. - Charles
  10. What baffles me is not only has the same setup worked for others, but that the flasher works perfectly when no lights are on. I'm trying to figure out what having the lights on changes. The only reason I'm hesitating on the full electronic flasher besides having to wait for it to come in, is not having the click. It's often an issue that I don't hear the click as it is and accidentally leave the flasher on until I realize people looking at me like I'm full on stupid. Lol. - Charles
  11. Any ideas, guys? Still haven't gotten them to work with running or driving lights on. Need any ideas you've got! - Charles
  12. From what I've heard, the four and six pucks eventually eat into the flywheel even before it gets to the rivets. It's just a drawback of having a disc that grabs immediately like it does. Even the sprung six pucks will do it to a degree. Just something to think about. I got a flywheel from Phil (FijiPhil) that someone ran a six puck on and it ate a groove into the flywheel about .150" deep and it hadn't even gotten to the rivets. - Charles
  13. I'm running an RPS Stage 3 PP with a full round (basically stock) sprung disc. I like the combo. Grabs hard as a mother, but still slips enough for smooth engagement. Only thing is that I can't find them for our cars anymore. I'll keep looking... - Charles
  14. The bolt thread is 10mm x 1.25. The length of them depends on how long your spacers are on your stand. Just measure the spacers and extend it another 1.5" or so. - Charles
  15. I use a bolt through one of the A/C holes in the bracket and a bolt from the passenger side motor mount. I usually wrap the chain around the mount and secure it with a bolt through two links. That's pretty balanced from what I've done. I wouldn't recommend a timing cover bolt. I feel that as too much of a risk of galling/cracking the timing cover or bending a TC bolt. - Charles
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