Fullbore576

I know I probably wont be the only one with this problem. Share the wealth!

Thats the thing. I did prime it per the manual, but the vehicle sat over night/day before I finished reassembly. Maybe it drained?

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU Goddard, THANK YOU DAD you guys are geniuses. I removed the small pipe plug in front of oil filter located on the block and used a syringe with a hose to force oil in there. Fired it up and after a couple of seconds, oil pressure rose like old faithful! I'm proud to be a part of this group, and honored to have such an awesome piece of machinery.

Yes, I am sure both were installed correctly....there is never a stupid question!

Yes, red threadlocker was used and bolt torqued to spec. I didnt want that baby comming loose.I had a bit of an issue with the wood-ruff key getting it to stay in place while I slid both gears and chain on, but eventually got it.

Yes, the plug was installed per instructions with silicone. I let it run maybe 45 seconds. Shut it down and then ran it again for about the same amount of time thinking the plunger or something would pop if it was stuck.

Installation of BSEK went ok. While I had the oil pump removed I inspected the gears, cover for wear, relief plunger and spring. I noticed the spring was a little worn and measured under spec. I installed a new spring and made sure relief plunger slid properly. Got it together about an hour ago, cranked the engine a few times to prime, and then fired it up. I noticed right off the bat I had no oil pressure so I shut it down. While I had the pan off I cleaned the pick up tube screen and what little sedament there was in the pan. Could the plunger be stuck?? If I run it longer will the oil pressure come around?? I really dont want to take this thing apart again, but I dont know what I would check? Any ideas?Fullbore

If boost is to high it can cause this problem. It can lean out and cause a stumble.

I ordered the six piece BSEK from DAD. Hopefully this takes care of the noise. Thanks for all the feedback guys. Keep it spooled!!

Thanx for the pic. Did you happen to catch my question about the gear on the oil pump? Does the gear have two rings inside/outside of the sprocket that are loose and spin free?

Ok, I removed the left balance shaft and the bearing is all chewed up but in one piece. It had actually slid forward on the shaft and worn into it. Not to pretty. I also noticed that the gear on the oil pump dosent seem right. There is an outter and inner ring on either side of the sprocket that spins?? Is it supposed to be like that, or should the gear be all one piece? Stupid question, does the oil pump need to be removed to remove the other silent shaft?

So, the ole 87 Quest was starting to sound like a Blackhawk helo and making me feel quite distressed. I removed the t-chain cover and inspected the goods. Last year I replaced the t-chain and gears and decided to leave the silent shafts in place. Once I got the cover off...again, I noticed alot of end play in tha left silent shaft. Should there be any end play?? Would a bad silent shaft bearing cause this crazy sound? When the BSEK is installed, are both silent shafts removed? Has anybody heard this noise before? Fullbore Check out the noise.

Count me in..

DUHHHH!!!! Figured out the GP....dont mind me, its been a long day. Does the kit consist of front and rear?

What does the kit consist of? Does the GP designation stand for anything, or is it just a model number?

I will definitlly check that. Thanks for that tip.

I did timing chain and gears last winter, so those gaskets have been replaced. The more I think about it(DAD being right as usual)most of the leakage seems to be towards the back especially on the starter side. I guess doing a valve cover gasket would be a place to start and determine leakage from there.

Thanks! That clears up alot.

I have check them periodically, they seem ok. Would torq be different with the ARP headbolts?(not studs) so my car is a vin N produced 5/87. Will the Fel Pro kit# HS 8770 PT-3 work? It states this kit fits up to 2/87. Some sites I have looked at show that a vin H and a vin N will work. So far I havent been able to find kits for vehicles after 2/87 unless it is for 88-89. Very confusing. What kit have you guys used for 87s?

Vehicle in question:87 Conquest, 14G, 89ECM, airbox mod, 21/2"exh, other small mods. About five years ago I replaced the headgasket with an AJUSA steel headgasket and ARP head bolts(not studs). Withen the last year i've noticed oil weeping in certain areas of the head gasket. I know its not from the valve cover, its clean above the areas. Should I replace it with another AJUSA or just a typical Fel-Pro set? Is there another headgasket on the market that holds up as well? I know its kind of a no brainer question, but i'm always interested in input and seeing what other guys are running and what works for them. Thanks.

Good idea. Im sure they can give me the best answer. After all, its their parts i'm using.

Well, looks like I can go either way on this one. There are no local shops that can perform this work. So it looks like its going back in. Thanks guys.

The wheels I purchased are from Kinugawa Turbo. Quality seems good I've read alot of good reviews about the company.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my 14G with new wheels, bushings, o-rings etc. Should I be concerned with having the unit balanced afterwards, or should it be good to go and bolt it back on the car? Thanx

It would be nice if they had a recording option. Sometimes when it bucks or snorts you are not paying attention to the wideband and are not sure if it went rich or lean. Some higher end scan tools have that option and it sure makes it nice to diagnose problems.