scott87star

They were Wilwood pads, I had a spare set I just gave away.

Pull the OVCP and have someone look for fuel spraying in the TB while cranking, injector clips are notorious for this issue even though you’ve visually checked them. Rereading I see where you know the injectors aren’t spraying, you can use a 9V battery to test them, maybe the primary is plugged. You can force fluid in the opposite direction to clean out any debris.

No, the lower arm unbolts from both the pivot point where you’re going to put new bushings and the ball joint. Then the strut bar unbolts from the strut bar bracket where you’re going to put new bushings and the lower control arm. The poly bushings are slip fit so no special tools, just grease well with marine grade to slow washout. The old rubber bush on the lca come out easily with a propane torch.

Hello!

When putting voltmeter + on the other pin on the primary or secondary clip and voltmeter - on negative battery cable i get a slow and steady discharge from 5-6v down to 0, which makes sense since the voltage is discharging/getting used This makes no sense, you should have constant 12.4 on each terminal key on, the ECU briefly grounds the injectors to fire them, so brief you’d never see it without an oscilloscope. Recheck to confirm. Also the injector resistors don’t alter voltage, they limit current.

I like it Randy!

Injectors don’t care which way they are wired, it is best practice to do it the same for troubleshooting. It sounds to me like you’ve got debris in the pintle of one or both, happened to me years ago with my 87. I had to remove both injectors and flush them backwards to finally fix it after several failed test drives.

My 87 has run a wideband O2 mounted in the factory spot for 30K plus miles without issue, still working fine. If you’re still running the factory ECU you can run the narrow band output from the wideband ( most have them) to the ECU.

Hey Nick, good to hear from you!

It can be the ABS system as well, that module is in the rear hatch.

Still have 3 in AZ.

Both sets sold.

I’ve got 3 but they’re sitting at my winter house in AZ.

Sold!

One set sold, one remaining.

Revolution (I think?) big brake kit, 300 mm diameter, I had them installed on my 87 MPI with factory front 7" wheels, ended up putting the stock setup back on with the intent to put these on my 85.5 which I just sold. Rotors are supposedly BMW units, they are very thick and heavy, included along with the brackets, wheel spacers, ss brake lines, all the nuts and bolts and clips and Wilwood four pot calipers. Very lightly used, street only. $500 shipped to the lower 48.

Sold!

I've got two sets of D2's NIB sitting in my garage, no longer needed. $1000 each shipped to the lower 48.

I did remote tuning for years through the msextra website, stopped when the Biden EPA started getting aggressive, the MS stuff is running everything including Toyota (especially the 12 cyl Japan only motor, I've done four) Nissan, many LS's, old Volkswagens, new Volkswagens, you name it and I've installed/tuned it. Also having been a DIY distributor they did a great service to us all with the MS3, MS3 mini and AMP'ed microsquirt. Motocam offers my design with an MS2 module on a motherboard with built in wide band O2, MAP and baro capable of fully sequential injection and ignition just for the Starquest with custom wire harness. Any of these solutions is a good one these days.

Pretty cool to see one unmolested in beautiful condition.

I’d check the throttle cable, if you don’t have a good block to chassis ground it’s known the throttle cable will fulfill that need and cause sticky operation eventually welding itself to the sheath.

I’ve got the last lightweight Competition Clutch flywheel NIB sitting in my garage but I won’t be home for another 10 days, pm me then.

Likely yes, the relay contacts get corroded so they start to fail, take it apart to clean the contacts or find a replacement.

Link?

These engines are set up from the factory to idle closer to 12.5-13 AFR, even lower cold. There is a ground switch on the tip of the ISC plunger that, when closed against the throttle stop sends the ground signal to the ECU to go into idle mode. Idle mode bypasses the O2 sensor signal and keeps the mixture rich for best idle, maybe the signal is not getting to the ECU. That happened to my Starion way back when, I had to clean the connector contacts between the ISC and ECU after which it worked as designed. The requirement for rich mixture for best idle quality is why they came with the idle air bypass to feed air into the exhaust ahead of the cats for emissions control.