scott87star

Both sets sold.

I’ve got 3 but they’re sitting at my winter house in AZ.

Sold!

One set sold, one remaining.

Revolution (I think?) big brake kit, 300 mm diameter, I had them installed on my 87 MPI with factory front 7" wheels, ended up putting the stock setup back on with the intent to put these on my 85.5 which I just sold. Rotors are supposedly BMW units, they are very thick and heavy, included along with the brackets, wheel spacers, ss brake lines, all the nuts and bolts and clips and Wilwood four pot calipers. Very lightly used, street only. $500 shipped to the lower 48.

Sold!

I've got two sets of D2's NIB sitting in my garage, no longer needed. $1000 each shipped to the lower 48.

I did remote tuning for years through the msextra website, stopped when the Biden EPA started getting aggressive, the MS stuff is running everything including Toyota (especially the 12 cyl Japan only motor, I've done four) Nissan, many LS's, old Volkswagens, new Volkswagens, you name it and I've installed/tuned it. Also having been a DIY distributor they did a great service to us all with the MS3, MS3 mini and AMP'ed microsquirt. Motocam offers my design with an MS2 module on a motherboard with built in wide band O2, MAP and baro capable of fully sequential injection and ignition just for the Starquest with custom wire harness. Any of these solutions is a good one these days.

Pretty cool to see one unmolested in beautiful condition.

I’d check the throttle cable, if you don’t have a good block to chassis ground it’s known the throttle cable will fulfill that need and cause sticky operation eventually welding itself to the sheath.

I’ve got the last lightweight Competition Clutch flywheel NIB sitting in my garage but I won’t be home for another 10 days, pm me then.

Likely yes, the relay contacts get corroded so they start to fail, take it apart to clean the contacts or find a replacement.

Link?

These engines are set up from the factory to idle closer to 12.5-13 AFR, even lower cold. There is a ground switch on the tip of the ISC plunger that, when closed against the throttle stop sends the ground signal to the ECU to go into idle mode. Idle mode bypasses the O2 sensor signal and keeps the mixture rich for best idle, maybe the signal is not getting to the ECU. That happened to my Starion way back when, I had to clean the connector contacts between the ISC and ECU after which it worked as designed. The requirement for rich mixture for best idle quality is why they came with the idle air bypass to feed air into the exhaust ahead of the cats for emissions control.

Hot start issues are often caused by heat soak on the IAT sensor, the ECU won’t add enough fuel until some air movement brings the sensor down.

There is a switch on the tip of the ISC that sends a ground signal to the ECU letting the ECU know to go into idle, is that what you’re seeing?

Yes, the factory setup used a power resistor on the negative side of the coil, little gold box thing. Remove that and wire tacho out to the white factory tach input and it likely will give you a working tach. I wrote up a mod in the MPI section but it appears lost.

I’ve had mixed results running the tacho out directly to the tach input, seems to work on the needle gauges but not on the digital dashes. Else you can make one of several adapters listed in the MS1 forums on msextra. I used to sell one made from a relay driven by the tacho out.

Got two in ND and three in Phoenix, might be able to deliver on our journey between, October and April.

MS has table editors/builders for each table you require, click on “tools” when in any table. Answer a few variables ( guesses are fine) and you’ll get awfully close. Close enough to start the engine and begin tuning. Best of luck!

Lost in translation. I am the Godfather of MS for Starquests, probably some stuff in the vendor forum left on my contribution to this community, maybe not. Motocam Tim carries my products still, don’t check in here much anymore.

Missing teeth count as teeth, 36.

It works just fine, 36/4=9.

D2's are the answer, I've used them on flattys and fattys and they do transform the car. My fatty had a coilover setup pieced together from old group buys including Cusco camber plates, the D2's just blew all of that out of the water. I slapped a set on my flatty and autocrossed the piss out of it, they just plain work. I actually have two sets NIB I should sell but they sit at my house in the North, won't be back there until May.

Vacuum leak from the brake booster? Could be sucking in a bunch of air when you activate it via brake pedal.