scott87star

Looking down at the module in the distributor with the module at the 12 O'clock position the left terminal is the VR+ and the right the VR- on the OEM VR pickup. For the CR125 you run +12V to the left terminal and the right terminal is the pickup, for it to work correctly you need to add a 1K resistor between the terminals, that acts as a 12V pull up to give a 12V square wave signal to the ECU.

There are table generators in each table, under Tools. Just answer a few parameter questions and done. It won’t be perfect but a good place to start.

Hanging!

Look in the FAQ's and How To's under body, hatch strut replacement. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=146639

Really, no one read this? It's a safety device to keep your butt from getting showered in fuel if something really bad happens to the internal pressure sensing tube.

Appears to be.

AEM, not sure were I got it. Also mated to a fidanza, very good pedal feel.

Southern sweet tea makes my hair follicles tingle. Far more dangerous than chili-cheese.

Well I'm not going to bid against Crazy Larry!

They make plastic welding stuff and/or they make plastic making kits if you have a mold or similar. Try Eastwood, http://www.eastwood.com/rigid-plastic-repair-kits.html, I used that to fill in a bunch of holes in a tail light housing plus fix the cracks. Worked really well.

It's supposed to sweep that much in closed loop, but you shouldn't be in closed loop at idle. Check the nose switch, likely its ground signal isn't making it to the ECU to tell the ECU that it should be idling. But again the sweep in cruise is normal, since the old narrow band sensors were only accurate at stoich or 14.7 AFR the ECU keeps sweeping the mixture rich and lean centered on stoich. It was the only accurate control scheme.

I'll just add that I tried my Aussie roller first with the 1.6 ratio roller rockers and it held the valves open slightly, about 65-70% leakdown. Switched to the 1.5 ratio and it runs fine. I have not done any degreeing yet as my goal was to switch to a roller setup and get some run time on it, and I can say I like it.

I had contacted RPW over a year ago about purchasing blanks that we could grind here stateside, even in lots of 10 or 20 they wanted the same price as a ground cam.

rain

Silly girl.

No offense intended but it has the wrong motor.

queens

Time to add something to the cam forums. Y'all have heard the terms, here's the math that defines the cam parameters. First, the definitions. Overlap: period in crank degrees when both intake and exhaust valves are off the seat. Duration: period in crank degrees when one valve is off the seat (seat to seat duration) or at a given lift value (0.050" typical). LCA: lobe centerline angle or the angle in crank degrees between the peak of the intake lobe and the peak of the exhaust lobe. Note that in a single cam (overhead or in block) application the LCA is ground into the cam, in a dual overhead cam application the LCA can be altered using adjustable cam gears. Either way the math still applies. Duration = (overlap/2 + LCA)*2 Overlap = (duration/2 - LCA)*2 LCA = (duration - overlap)/2 Point being if someone gives you two of the values you can calculate the third, they are all inter-related. Put another way you can't have big duration and overlap without having big LCA, it is forced into the design. From the FSM, stock slipper lobe cam specs: Overlap 45 degrees, duration 264 degrees, the LCA must then be (264 - 45)/2 or 109.5 degrees.

Timing advance is controlled by the bob weights and spring tension, both total and rate of advance. It was different for non-intercooled, intercooled and probably the 88-89 cars. I've rebuilt and locked a lot of distributors, never noticed any difference other than that.

06SL2 wheel fits, I'm running one.

It was a hot day in Houston too, 33 C.

It seems to run well, just won't idle. You will have to check out the ISC (Idle Speed Control) and do a TPS reset. TPS reset, the first two: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showforum=65 ISC is covered in the service manual on: http://www.starquestgarage.com

Do you have spark?

I've had more water jet cut, either Sebring style (top) or Ford Modular style (bottom). $75 shipped for a plate, complete COP system for $395 and up depending upon your choice of coil. The Sebrings all come in black, the Fords can be had in just about any color of the rainbow. http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/copplates.jpg

Yes sir, and don't be afraid of change. IMHO fear of change leads to loss of IQ and adventure, invest in yourself and be ready for the next great opportunity. Best of luck working out what that may be.