03CL55AMG Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Dropped my fully rebuilt motor in this past weekend and I was wondering about oil priming the motor before I start it up...is the best way to pull the plugs and un- clip the injector clips and crank for 7 second spurts until oil is coming out of the lifters...or is there a better way, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 You are on the right track. The only other way is to pressurize oil and inject it into the oil passage on the turbo side near the timing cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 faq engine section..http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=42694 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03CL55AMG Posted March 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Can you buy the pressurized oil in a container ? I slipped up and did not prime the oil pump when I had the front cover off.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr-starion Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Idealy youd definitley wanna pressurize the motor with oil but some of us dont build motors everyday so its pointless to own one, i went ahead priming it with the starter, i had put assembly lube on ever mechanical piece and also filled the motor with oil with the valve cover off. Proceeded to crank the motor with a ratchet on the main pulley 20 times, spark plugs out injectors disconected, then turned the motor over a few times until i got abit of oil pressure, had someone crank while i checked for oil in the head then i plugged everything back in and fired her up, let her run at 1500 to 2200 rpm for 15min and she was good to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 The point of the post is to show how We prime the system, A little thinking on ones part can yield another way to pump oil into that hole to prime the pump, for example a plain can pump oiler connected to a hose and fitting in the block can allow you to prime the oil pump and oil passages with a pint or Qt of oil. That way you are not cranking the engine Dry. with only assembly lube on your parts. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 i made my own pressure primer. find a metal bottle of some kind, put a shrader valve in it. (the kind for a tire). put a valve of some sort on it so you can put a hose on it. fill the bottle up with oil, charge with air, connect hose to the hole in the block slowly open the valve. done,,,, just dont blow air into the block. if you have to repeat thats fine. wait till you see oil out of the rockers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 I just used one of those liquid transfer pumps from harbor freight, costs 5 bucks or something, has hoses on either end and a basketball pump type lever on it. Just put one end in a quart of oil and get a fitting that's the right size (1/2" NPT maybe? Not sure) to screw into the timing cover, I think it was the factory oil drain port but I'm not sure because mine is MPI now. Then just pop the hose on the barb on the timing cover and send the quart through there. As far as I know it primes the oil pump and if your valve cover is off you can just keep going until it comes out the lifters/oil galleys on the head and no more air is coming through.. When mine was dry it took a little more than a quart. Works excellent and total cost is like $7.50 plus the cost of the oil. No sense in overcomplicating things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 (edited) make one... found this on line. http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/attachments/spider-1966-up/138822d1241652812-igot-air-powered-brake-fluid-bleeder-yesterday-snow-002.jpg here is one that is made by motive products..i know it is for bleeding brakes, but if it can push brake fluid im sure it can push engine oil.just mod the hose. on a side note you dont want to mix brake fluid and engine oil... <_> http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/motive_bleeder/installation.jpg Edited March 5, 2013 by importwarrior Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Did mine with a PVC pipe and 2 end caps. Install one end cap with fitting for hose to attach to port just behind timing cover. Install one end to attach air hose for compresser. pour in oil, install cap on other end with fitting for compresser. Pump compresser up to ~20 pounds and crack the valve open. Don't blow air in (make sure oil does not run dry in PVc feed tube) Enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 There ya go, quite a few great ideas!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted March 6, 2013 Report Share Posted March 6, 2013 You can unplug the dizzy connector and the fuel pump will not run instead of risking cracking an injector connection. Having a fancy pressurized oil primer is nice, but you can do fine with removing the small allen plug in the side of the block (not the timing cover) as shown in Randy's pics, and then squirting some oil in there. Then crank the engine with the plugs removed until you hear/see oil coming out of the rockers. Sometimes it can take a little while to get full pressure when cranking, as in 5 mins or so depending how long your starter bursts are. Just make sure the starter doesn't overheat, and all the plugs are out, and you will be ok. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 6, 2013 Report Share Posted March 6, 2013 Only issue to that is the engine is spinning and you are relying on what little assembly lube is on the bearings, camshaft etc. With the system pressurized and galleys full of oil it is lubricated almost instantly. Not saying thats wrong, but having oil filled in all the galleys is a much better way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03CL55AMG Posted March 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Thanks everybody...those are some good ideas, I do have a Motive brake bleeder so that's what I will use with some minor modifications, glad I posted the question and I would like to say a special thanks to DAD ( Randy ) for his words of wisdom while I built my motor...thanks again Randy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 please make sure not to mix fluids...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 The pump should get primed before bolting it up but that's not the main issue. Did you fully rebuild the engine without having the block cleaned out, oil passages, etc...? The reason I am going here with this is because if you didn't, then don't even think about priming the whole oiling system with a pressure can. You can only do that with a cleaned out system. All passages professionally cleaned by a machine shop preferrably. Otherwise, your priming will result in dislodging all of the trash in the oil system that was stuck to the sides, corners, etc.. Metal shavings, oil varnish, actual dirt, etc... It will get evenly spread throughout the system and placed directly on the bearing and journal surfaces. This is a much worse condition than not priming at all. Be very certain that the pressure you are priming with is LOWER than 20 PSI. Shoving oil from up top will disloge garbage easier than pulling from the pick-up tube too.I'm all for priming with pressure first, but I would only do it on a freshly cleaned oiling system that was cleaned when the block was completely bare. Plugs removed too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted March 13, 2013 Report Share Posted March 13, 2013 (edited) The pump should get primed before bolting it up but that's not the main issue. Did you fully rebuild the engine without having the block cleaned out, oil passages, etc...? The reason I am going here with this is because if you didn't, then don't even think about priming the whole oiling system with a pressure can. You can only do that with a cleaned out system. All passages professionally cleaned by a machine shop preferrably. Otherwise, your priming will result in dislodging all of the trash in the oil system that was stuck to the sides, corners, etc.. Metal shavings, oil varnish, actual dirt, etc... It will get evenly spread throughout the system and placed directly on the bearing and journal surfaces. This is a much worse condition than not priming at all. Be very certain that the pressure you are priming with is LOWER than 20 PSI. Shoving oil from up top will disloge garbage easier than pulling from the pick-up tube too.I'm all for priming with pressure first, but I would only do it on a freshly cleaned oiling system that was cleaned when the block was completely bare. Plugs removed too. Excellent,Excellent advice. If you, or your Engine Builder did not pull both plugs on the Oil gallies prior to the Engine Block cleaning or you or your Engine Builder failed to flush out the Oil Cooler.....That is on you!! There is only one way to do a Engine Rebuild correctly.....CLEAN. If the Oil Pump and all the Engine Bearing surfaces were packed with Assembly Lube....You should not have any problems. Just disconnect the coil, spin the Engine over in short spurts until you start to see the Oil Pressure Gauge rise....Then, start it. Run it for appox. 15 minutes at 1500 rpms while checking the Coolant and Oil for leaks.Then, take it out on the road. Don't boost it!!! But take it up to max. RPMS for appox.10 minutes. After that, Park it until complete cool down. If you feel you can't stay out of the boost.....Disconnect the Turbocharger. Bill Edited March 13, 2013 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03CL55AMG Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 I know that the machine shop hot tanked the block but I don't know if the gallies were cleaned or flushed out...I did clean out and flush the oil cooler very well so I know that that was done and I already primed the motor and will be firing it up tomorrow. so I hope that the gallies were clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 I know that the machine shop hot tanked the block but I don't know if the gallies were cleaned or flushed out...I did clean out and flush the oil cooler very well so I know that that was done and I already primed the motor and will be firing it up tomorrow. so I hope that the gallies were clean. Prime it right before you fire it. Oil runs down over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
860QuestTuner Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 I was thinking of useing a hand held pressurized canister I have for brake clean and changing the fitting to attach the turbo oil feed to prime engine. The canister can be charged with air and can be filled with about a quart or so of fluid (oil). Has this ever been tried? Is there any reason not to do it this way? It looks like it would send oil bottom up in the engine . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 I was thinking of useing a hand held pressurized canister I have for brake clean and changing the fitting to attach the turbo oil feed to prime engine. The canister can be charged with air and can be filled with about a quart or so of fluid (oil). Has this ever been tried? Is there any reason not to do it this way? It looks like it would send oil bottom up in the engine . There is a port made for priming. It's just behind the timing cover on the exaust / turbo side of the motor about 1/2 way from the top of the block. It will have an allen key plug in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/Gauges/CG-106.jpg brass plug in pic below. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/Tools/P1010714.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 it's realy not nessarry for oil to run out of the lifters , once you see oil comeing from around the cam tower brgs your fine but the main thing to remember from this is ALWAYS prime the oil pump before installing it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polarisman14 Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 Yeah I dropped the ball on that when I installed my oil pump and didn't remember it until the timing cover, crank pulley, and radiator were back in. When I primed the timing cover I assumed it took care of that issue, hasn't caused any yet, hopefully no air bubbles in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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