Caliber308

The reason I asked is because no.3 and 4 look like a bit of rust accumulation. Running it 1 or 2 times a week might scrub off rust further down in the cylinder walls. What did Dad say about it? Bill

Has it been humid where you live, and how often do you drive your Starquest? Bill

First, you need to know how to remove the meter hood and gauge assembly. If you do not have a FSM, you will need to go here: www.starquestgarage.com download the fsm for the 1988. Then go to section 8 pages 166 and 168. O.K. Lets get started, when you remove the meter hood and gauge assembly be careful of the printed circuit plastic with the copper ribbons on the back of the meter case. You will need a dremel tool to widen the plastic to fit the brass connector. I drilled a small hole in the back of the gauge assembly to pass the plastic line through. Go to where the speedo cable goes through the firewall, you will see a grommet, punch a hole big enough to run the plastic hose through. Hook the white wire from the new boost gauge to a green / white wire.. pick one, it doesn't matter and ground the black one. So that part is done. Reinstall the gauge assembly and meter hood, here is a word of caution!!!!! Space the meter glass away from the gauge assembly a little bit, don't and you are going to crack the plastic because the new boost gauge sticks out a bit. Hook up under the hood: I like to cover the plastic hose with vacuum hose because of the heat under the hood. Now the vacuum hook up. You will want to splice the hose under the row of three vacuum ports on the throttle body. Why? You want the lowest source of vacuum, for the most accurate reading on your boost gauge. Go to the auto parts store and pick up a t or y vacuum hose connector, hook up the plastic hose and two ends of the vacuum hose you spliced. YOUR DONE!!! see, it wasn't that hard ☺️ I used a Autometer 2601 boost/vacuum gauge because it fits in the stock location. Stay tuned for more goodies. Good luck, Bill

Try here: www.starquestgarage.com Click on service manuals then click on 1988 . go to group 5 pages 5-54 to 5-57. It might be a little clearer to you on what you have to do. Good Luck, Bill

Start a new post and we will figure it out. Bill

Welcome. Nice to see a fellow Arizonan. Looks like you live in the southern part. Any help I can give, please ask. Bill

Your more than welcome. Bill

Send Kev a message.

You can pretty much get the same info. with both volumes 1 and 2 of the Factory Service Manual for your year Starquest. Try here: www.starquestgarage.com If you can not find out what you need to know after looking in the FSMs, Just post a question. There are members on this site that are very knowledgeable about Starquests, and most are more than willing to try and help with your questions. Sorry to say that the S.O.S Manuals died with Wayne Wike (Professor Quest). He was a friend of mine and I miss him dearly. Bill

Try here: 1800thompson.com/wheel-restoration.htm Prices start at $125.00 per wheel. They are located in Doylestown,PA. That is in Eastern PA. So you should be able to drive there from New Jersey. Phone no: 1-267-898-2734. It took me appox. three minutes to look up this information and post it on here. So......................Tux, what have you been doing all day? Bill

Texas Quest is a really cool guy, you should send him a PM. for information about the Rim Refinisher.

Is my response not a "years ago quote". Your response was hoping for a 'ballpark price" of $75.00 . Stuff goes up!!!!!!! So, suck it up and pay the price in 2022, if you want them done. Obviously, neither New Jersey or New York seems like a good option.

I always knew that sales tax in New Jersey was high............But, I never thought they could get that high 😜 You should move to Texas 😉 P.S. I still think you were dealing with either, a shop that did not want to do it, so they jacked the price up.....Or they were trying to rip you off. Bill

Drinking beer, smoking cigarettes and having a lot of sex with different women. I know Shelby is gone...But, he can read this post in heaven. Bill

You were just dealing with someone who wanted to rip you off. Years ago I had a bent rim from hitting a pothole in the dark. Took it to a place that repaired things like that in California. They did a excellent job, even repainted the red I had on my rim. Cost.......$75.00.

Members are just trying to help. If you don't want to buy a Wideband, that is fine. Kev, your acting like you have made your mind up on what you are going to do, but your still posting about a problem you have. I use to have problems with the narrowband not giving me the proper information. Once I installed a Wideband and the MAF-T, the problems were solved by Air/Fuel adjustments with proper and accurate Air/Fuel Ratios that I could see in real time with the Wideband. Also, If you install Delphis you need to up the fuel pressure to at least 43 to 45 psi for them to atomize properly. So see, even more money needs to be spent to install a RRFPR and a Fuel Pressure Gauge. I checked on another sites archives and found a post with a problem similar to yours, it turned out to be a vacuum hose. Just my observation, Bill

If your back..........................Then your not a newbie😜 "Welcome coming back" Bill

Seems like a injector problem. I could see not having a problem at WOT because of full fuel demand. Perhaps it is time (with 35 year old fuel injectors) to upgrade to Delphis and maybe a Wideband AFR gauge. I know it costs money, but the best investment I made on my Starion was the Maf-Translator set up. There is nothing like having control over your Air/Fuel settings, and having a way to read them via a wideband gauge. Bill

There are two connectors that plug into the ECU itself: B-37 and B-36.

Go here: www.starquestgarage .com Click on service manuals, then click on 1988. Click on electrical 26. Then go to section 8 pages 32 to 44, that covers all the wiring harnesses in the car.

You can find info on the 1988 wiring harness by looking in the 1988 fsm. Here is where you can find it: www.starquestgarage.com

Let the members know what you find. Bill

It is in the schematic that is in the 1988 conquest fsm that I posted in a prior post. The wire from the luggage light (red/white) goes to the rear hatch switch. It is part of the rear hatch latch. Your going to have to remove the carpeted rear panel to get to it.