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Caliber308

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Everything posted by Caliber308

  1. 1. Remove the battery and battery tray. 2. Remove the washer tank mounting bolt. 3. Remove the washer tank. Everything on these cars should be this easy. ☺️
  2. Sounds like a bad ignition switch. They are easy to replace, finding one???? You might want to have a new key made first.
  3. I forgot to mention this. I would check with South Bay to verify that the injectors are Delphis. If so, they will need to see appox. 43.5 psi fuel pressure to operate at their optimum. If you are still running the stock FPR the psi is appox. 34 to 38 psi.
  4. After all, It is a sports car, not a Cadillac.
  5. FIC Injectors for Starquests are Delphis. They use to use a electric scribe on the side of the injectors to mark the cc size. The Delphis are green and black in color. The South Bay injectors kinda look like Delphis with the spacers but, I would have to see them up close.
  6. Yep, Delphis do run lean until warm up. I have a 950/1150 injector set up with a 3 1/2" MAF -T. It is fun to adjust.
  7. Nothing is cheap when doing mods on these cars. The best set up is to use a A/F Gauge, AEM or the like. You have to install a bung in the exhaust pipe at least 36 inches downstream of the Turbo. And installed at least at a 30 degree angle. AEM gives you all of the information for installing the sensor. Keep your stock 0-2 sensor in place. Or you might want to install a three wire O-2 Sensor. See how much you have to change when you start to do mods on your fuel delivery. And I haven't even got into fuel flow with a aftermarket fuel pump, aftermarket fuel filter and a Rising rate fuel pressure regulator to feed and adjust the larger than stock fuel injectors. Now is where the fun starts !!!!! But, if you need help........We are here. Bill
  8. FAQ Section Fuel/Ecu System Page 1 Injector clip replacement/wire colors by buzzkill. Go to page 2 post by Caliber 308. Bill
  9. Excellent advice. Members should listen to Tims advice. After all, he has been in the Starquest game for a long time. Bill
  10. There is a member who still makes the graphics. You might want to post in the Parts Wanted or Parts For Sale Forum. Here you go: B.S. forum page one Natallica reproductions. Bill
  11. A lot of things will cause a car to drop at idle and die. To check for a vacuum leak start the car, at a warm idle spray carb cleaner on all hoses and connections, if you hear a idle increase, that is most likely where the leak is. Try the easy things first. I would still do a ISC/TPS Reset. Bill
  12. If you have never done the TPS/ISC reset here is where to go. You will need a multi meter that is digital. FAQ Section, Fuel/Ecu System. TPS/ ISC Reset (87 -89) by KO. Good Luck, Bill
  13. Good luck finding a stock replacement connector. If you still have the rubber cover, just use it to cover the two spade connectors, What I found that works is a old coil wire rubber cover. Bill
  14. You guys kill me. Being retired is being retired !!!!!! I spend my time doing things I like, not working. I like working on my Street Rail and Starion, and when I am done I like to drink a few beers. You "retired" guys are not really retired if you have to continue to work to make money😉 Bill
  15. If it has jet valves it is likely a stock cylinder head. 5000 to 5500 rpms is about all your going to get from a stock set up, these engines were made for torque not high revs. This is the set up I have: AMC Marnal cylinder head. Over sized ss valves. HD valve springs. Tim C. Roller cam/ roller rockers. I can get 7000 rpms out of it. Bill
  16. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and tape it to the windshield. Look at the fuel pressure at 2000 rpms. If you still have the stock fpr and it should read somewhere between 34 to 38 psi. On boost, the fuel pressure and the boost pressure should equal appox : 42 to 46 psi. Also check the fuel pump for proper operation. Bill
  17. Nobody is bumping me up. I had over 14,000 posts before the crash. So suck it up 😜 And learn to live with it.😉 From now on it is what you do moving forward. Bill
  18. Thanks guys for the replies. I was off this site for appox, 7 years or 8 years. I have visited the Facebook sites....They don't do a thing for me. I remember this site being so crowded that sometimes it could take awhile to post. I guess that losing members like Shelby, Professor Quest and losing years of information put a dent in membership...and that is sad because their are still a lot of experienced Starquest owners here that are willing to help. Bill
  19. Hell, when I was a new member on this site in 2002 , I had a ton of questions about these cars. Is it that their are fewer Starquest owners, or that some don't want to ask questions, in fear of looking like a novice. We were all novices when we purchased these cars. No one knew everything about these cars years ago...except Shelby !!! Don't be afraid to ask questions. Bill
  20. Finish the 88 conquest tsi for your son. At least your not going to put him in a YUGO. Your a good dad. My first car was a 1962 Pontiac Catalina that I purchased on my own for $ 150.00 dollars when I was 16. When I was 17 I bought a 1953 Ford in Lakewood, Co. for $ 35.00, Hey, it got me where I wanted to go. My dad never bought or gave me a car. Your son is a very lucky guy. Bill
  21. Sorry you feel that way. My responses were not meant to belittle you, it was hopefully trying to help other members who decide to do a rebuild without having the engine block Magnafluxed. Some members might spend thousands to build a Starquest engine. Wouldn't you like them to have the best information possible from experienced Starquest owners? Again, if I offended you, I am sorry. Bill
  22. So to me the moral of the story is: Better to spend the money to Magnaflux than not. I've built a few V-8 engines in my day and Magnafluxed every single one of them, and some were cracked. It is better to be safe than sorry. Hope this thread helps others in the future. Bill
  23. It is like you told me: The block and cylinder head are flat. But did you have the engine block Magnafluxed? So, if you saw a crack in the engine block, why did you go forward with the build? Bill
  24. I've been running a Ajusa MLS for years on a new rebuild with no problems up to 15 psi boost. Perhaps your cylinder head needed shaving or the engine block needed decking. Bill
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