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O-Ringing the Head


Jayton
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I just purchased an M6 head and want to have it O-ringed. I'm not sure if O-ringing is something that is standard practice for machine shops or if I need to find a specialty shop? Furthermore, do I need to find someone who is familiar with the 2.6 head?
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i thought you o-ringed the block not the head.

 

 

you can do either or both. I would do the block. actually i would not spend too much money on the starquest head. A light port and polish, OS valves and thats it. why put so much money into it to have it blow.

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http://www.enginemachineservice.com/26oring.jpg

 

 

 

I myself prefer to do the block as shown in my pic of a recent job.

 

Very hard to center up on a head and if you do overheat or blow a gasket you will need to mill and re do the head, Less chance of the block warping in My opinion.

 

 

Dad

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I MUST ASK. WHAT IS "O" RINGING, AND WHAT ARE ITS ADVANTAGES

 

 

If you look at the pic that DAD posted, you'll see the groove going around the cylinders. In that groove you insert a cooper wire. You actually have to tap it in using a hammer. The wire will protrude above the surface of the deck. This will help contain the cylinder pressure.

 

This can however cause the head gasket to leak. And how effective it is on a street car, is debatable. In a all-out race car, it's a must.

 

Oh and you have to replace the wire if (when) it flatens out. That's when your leaks start.

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Shop here said that if I wanted to do that to get the cutter and do it myself, so far I have had no reason to want or need to. Why do you think you "need" to?

 

I want to do this to prevent a blown head gasket under high boost levels (20+ psi). I was under the impression that it was something that would 'bullet proof' the head gasket.

After reading some of the other responces on this thread I am now realizing some other factors that I didn't know, like the fact that the wire that sits in the groove can flatten out over time and cause leaks.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I probably won't do this on my head now.

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I never heard about the wire flattening out. we use a stainless wire not copper. Guess we will find out with this motor.

 

Dad

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I didn't break down my time, just the total ( 7 hours) in boreing ( not honeing), decking the block, cutting for the o/rings and installing the o/rings.

 

Takes some time to cut and fit the o/rings, you have to cut grind the ends square and just right so they butt together

 

Dad

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I didn't break down my time, just the total ( 7 hours) in boreing ( not honeing), decking the block, cutting for the o/rings and installing the o/rings.

 

Takes some time to cut and fit the o/rings, you have to cut grind the ends square and just right so they butt together

 

Dad

 

 

So... a LOT.

 

-Robert

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if the M6 head is a rare item, I probably wouldn't risk it.

If it flows so much better than a regular head, you "should" make noticably more power and not have to run as much boost.

A bigger turbo is essential for a 'lower boost' powerhouse setup.

 

Seen quite a few oz/nz hi boost setups of various makes, with std head

gaskets + o-ring for years. It was good to actually see a 2.6 run it.

Held 35+ psi from a GT35 ....and without the fluid leaks that plague other gaskets - what more can anyone possibly need ?

Even more amazing, done with the inexpensive fel-pro 8770.

Best G54 sealing solution imo

 

I'd hit up the *DM/chris_viper/quest_tsi crew for o-ring experience.

I believe they said a shop that builds hi performance porsche motors did the head for ~$100-180??... so you may wanna hit up a local one too

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  • 4 years later...

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10168/resurrection.jpg

 

^ this aside...

 

Any more recent input on O-ringing? The only shop that does it within a few hours of here is highly unreliable according to a few very trusted guys here. I'm debating whether it's worth sending the block out & waiting the extra time plus spending extra dough for this. I do want reliability and this motor will be over 400ph capable.

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i for one dont think its needed. i run a high boost setting of 32psi and i have no problems doin so. i run the AJUSA headgasket and torque the arps to 100.

 

i also have two very good friends of mine running non o-ringed 4g63. both run MLS headgaskets and arp's. One runs 35psi and the other 45psi. both have alot of street miles and as well as 1/4mile time

 

i run 15psi daily and 32psi when i feel like it. their is no reason to run 32psi all day on the street

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i for one dont think its needed. i run a high boost setting of 32psi and i have no problems doin so. i run the AJUSA headgasket and torque the arps to 100.

 

i run 15psi daily and 32psi when i feel like it. their is no reason to run 32psi all day on the street

 

Yeah, just when someone gets smart. lol

 

i also run arp's torqued to 100. i ran them to to 90, and through one heat cycle, then retorqued them down to 100. getting ready for more boost as we speak! lol

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The other advantage might be that an o'ringed head would be cheaper to ship than a block .

 

On the other hand does it cost more to mill a block than a cylinder head,

and how many times can you mill a head in comparison to a block??

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