Indiana

Thanks I've been doing many other things lately, like an indoor townhouse for a 4 year old

Does your parking brake work? Did the screw posts in the pistons turn? Are the cable levers moving? Do the cables stick? Take that proportioning valve off the firewall, take the cap off and remove the spring and piston out and clean the rotten crap out of it. Don't get sold new hoses because of this issue. This clogged up valve will cause those rear calipers to stick. If the ABS modulator is still there, you have to bleed the crap out of it too.

Where's the ONLY wire that is hot just because the engine is running and shuts down automatically when the engine is off or dies? Its the output for the fuel pump from the control relay as controlled by the ECU. There's your low amp relay feed for your new power source right from the battery. You put in a new relay that is for your new items you only want "on" if the engine is running, meaning there's a tach signal cause that's how it works the ECU maintains power to that feed to the control relay to keep it closed so the pump stays running and it shuts down the control relay if the tach signal is lost, that way you can have full battery voltage through your new relay without the voltage ups and down from the rotten stock POS wiring harness. Why in 5 pages has nobody suggested this? It works for adding anything that needs power so you don't have to pull more amps through an already overloaded plastic 25 year old ignition switch and all that old corroded wiring.

Seeing 100 old tired motors with ate up bearings and blocks full of rust with cracked heads doesn't tell you anything.

Maybe I have been watching for 6 months to see what happens. I'm great, how are you?

Get the OEM stat. Wide temperature swings from running cold thermostats is what contributes to blown headgaskets. Your motor DOES get very hot under boost just you never see it. When you narrow down the operating range you reduce the expansion and contraction of the cylinder head when is sliding on the headgasket coating. This is why you NEVER boost a cold motor unless you just like to change parts. Ya, same thing for why heads crack. Morons says its because they overheat, that's BS. Its repeated heat cycles and how quickly they occur and it can happen to any head on any motor driving by anyone normal, stock or highly modified it doesn't matter the heads are sand cast and all are crap.

Injectors are above the throttleplate. A BOV near the throttlebody you will smell some fuel when the BOV opens, you can't avoid it. The idle motor is extened when you are driving so even if you lift the pedal the throttle plate doesn't close completely and when that air pressure is evacuated it will siphon out that tiny bit of fuel that was there and you can smell it but you shouldn't be able to see it, it should be atomized in the air change that is escaping. The other thing is that since its a wet throttlebody, or injection mixer as its properly called, when a larger BOVs piston closes the air AND FUEL can be drawn into that little port off the side of the throttlebody just below the throttle plate and over time may fill the hose and the BOV not work properly.

They are not idiot proof, you can put the shafts in upside down, you can swap them, have clogged up lifters that need cleaned, have one of those AMC heads that were machined for mechanical valvetrain or have purchased a replacement head that has mechanical shafts and someone used hydraulic rocker arms. There are lots of ways to cause a noisy valvetrain. Maybe you are sucking air through the front pickup tube going into the oil pump. http://b2600turbo.com/stock_camshaft_id.htm http://b2600turbo.com/Marnel%20Cap.htm Those two links should explain it all

You MUST first bleed the master. With the hard line off, you cover the line opening, push the pedal and let the fluid spray out around your finger then keep the hole covered so when the pedal is pulled up, the fluid can only be sucked in from the TOP, not sucking in AIR from around your finger or what would be in the line if you didn't take it off. This is why you may have to remove the line from the master and bleed the master first if the master ever ran out of fluid or its full of rusty gunk or is about worn out and isn't working well because you will NEVER get the air back out of the master it bled any other way. The gravity bleed part assumes you FIRST bled all the air from the master. The gravity part is when you keep the fluid from running out and just let it drain out the line and out the slave bleeder but before you tighten the bleeder, gently push the slave rod in a little , hold it in then tighten the bleeder that way if any air was in the slave you just pushed it out the bleeder hole.

That never works, the piston in the master displaces about a tablespoon of fluid and the system holds 30 times that so how does moving that little bit of fluid ever make air bubbles travel DOWN and out? All you do is break them up into smaller bubbles then they slowing work back into larger ones and your problem is back.

The pump is cooled by the fuel. Use the test port and run the pump and listen. If you can't hear fuel flowing, take the return hose off the throttlebody.

You can drill for a zerk fitting on the center link and save it, the left side rotates, the right side is a ball. You will drill some into the cylinder that is what rotates in the pocket on the left side so you can get a fitting installed as the center link is pretty thin but at least now you can grease it and it should have been done that way when it was new but they were too cheap to do it. It will make the steering easier too btw, those two old pivot points are dried up.

Its not a "smog thing", it helped keep the convertors from burning up. You got way too rich fuel mix dumping into the exhaust quite often and that fresh air introduced into the stream ahead of the first convertor gave it oxygen to burn that up but since there has always been morons tied to anything that has the term "smog" mentioned, if I were you and there was still a convertor on your car if you had any sense at all you would LEAVE IT THERE or its just going to speed up the clogging of that convertor. Why did the convertors clog up? Coolant didn't help for one but since injectors were never cleaned every few years and the fuel just dumps into the exhaust, the valve seals are no good and the oil dumps in with the rest and nobody knows what the oil separator system does so its removed you get these wannabe dumbarses with these POS cars rolling down the road smoking with the lame excuse they cleaned up their engine bay when most of that was ripped out and they just turn their car into a crap pile cause they are stupid.

So, did he buy you a new motor?

Its worth what the junkyard will pay for it. Its a rotten car with a dead motor. $400 if the brakes work and the windshield isn't cracked and it goes down from there.

Yes. There's splices like that through out the entire harness. Its why the stock harness is a total POS, they are ROTTEN, the tape is now all crap, the copper strands are all corroded, greasy, wet and awful resistance changes for the sensors and will change with temperature and movement. That's a crimp to a braided end that's just for a noise filter and on one end it goes nowhere on some connectors like the 02

Save your money, have your injectors cleaned instead.

CTS connector is yellow striped wire and BLACK wire. CTS all have raised molded OVAL shaped.

There's only two parts that get balanced and they are balanced already and those other parts are floating in oil.

That motor is dead in every way. The only thing left good are the rods.

Loosen the rocker assembly, remove all the lifters and bleed them again. Do it in diesel fuel. With the check ball depressed, hold them under the diesel and squish them over and over then while still holding the check ball down while you turn the lifter up so the diesel runs out of the lifter and when you pull the wire out the lifter remains squishy. You do not leave these with diesel in them or so that they are pumped up when you install them that will PREVENT the valves from being able to fully seat and you'll get incorrect compression numbers or it they are dirty they can't pump up and you'll get the same inconsistent numbers. Put them back in, put it back together and start it up with 30W oil in it not some frickin thick crap. Pull the plugs again and check the compression again. http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/valveliftercutaway01.jpg

The rust flows through the fuel system you can't eliminate it, the particles are too small. They collect and bind to the steel parts inside the injector and it will happen with those POS spraying generic injectors too. There's also the corrosion from the steel and aluminum being in contact with each other especially when the damper is removed from the fuel pump and the pressure falls off and fuel drains back. You turn the pump on and that crap flows right through the injector. Just because one injector shows up dirty again on a car that is never driven doesn't mean that 100,000 other injectors are the same and that the same lazy hack that tried to clean one injector now works at the other shops because I've had more injectors cleaned than most have ever seen and I've NEVER had that happen.

Eventually it will melt and maybe take the rest of the harness with it. That black box was a protector for a bolt/nut that was just the end where the harness attached to a fuse link but you can hard wire in a fuse link you don't need that box but you do need the fuse link. You can get those in bubblepacks at autoparts stores or wire on spools if you want to make your own. You need a 16ga fuse link for a stock alternator and harness. That 16ga fuse link wire size protects a 12ga wire. If you changed your alternator for higher amp unit you'll need to upgrade that alternator harness and fuse link. When people put in a new alternator and expect to be able to run all these additional things off that same old tired wiring that's when the dirty connections heat up and melt and you're chasing those "gremlins".

This could have all just been a dirty ECI fuse link. Your power to the injectors comes through the ignition switch but that's just battery voltage, the are fired through the ECU which is the ground. The distributor sends the signal that the motor is rotating, the ECU used the ignitor and then fires the injectors. If the ignitor is dead you have no ignition signal so the injectors won't fire. If there's no spark, its never going to run. You need to verify this first. After you know the ignition system works then you can try some starter fluid. Don't expect some old dirty injectors to get the engine started after you were trying to start it and it never ran all while fuel may have been spraying and fouling the plugs. Disconnect the injectors before you do anything so that the plugs can't be fouled. You send those injectors to www.rceng.com and have them cleaned. You get the NGK 7031 spark plugs and NGK plug wire set ( ME51) from rockauto.com You get a compression gauge while the plugs are out and check that. After you do all this you hope it runs because it may not that's why it was sold by the last guy but at least you've only spent about 100.00

The line can only be reused a couple times, its tin and the flare inside the pump will never mash into it in the same position twice so it cuts through each time and its always overtightened so what do you expect? The air gets in, the fluid runs low, the pump overheats and burns out and oh its the fault of the pump. Its never the fault of the one that worked on the car.