Better Oil Separator For Your SQ

[Turboat]

How about a Perrin Heated Separator

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8517/8417712363_a0500323cc_b.jpg

 

Or a Crawford Racing Heated Separator

 

http://www.crawfordperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Separator-Air-Oil-Kit-For-FMIC-02-07-STIWRX.jpg

[conquestador89]

^^^i have the grimmspeed AOS on my wrx...works great

[Turboat]

^^^i have the grimmspeed AOS on my wrx...works great

If our valve covers were threaded then it could work. But our oil caps use tabs not threads.

[Shelby]

oil fill cap portions on the valve covers are not baffled for an oil vent area , the rear of the valve cover is designed for venting with minimal oil being sucked out

[psu_Crash]

oil fill cap portions on the valve covers are not baffled for an oil vent area , the rear of the valve cover is designed for venting with minimal oil being sucked out

 

Until I hack up the baffle to clear my ARP studs

[Skullzaflare]

the nipple on the rear of the valve cover is just pressed in, if you grab it with pliers it turns out. i took mine out and tapped it and put a 1/4 to -6an for my catch can

(not in the sig pic)

[Starfyter]

http://www.dsmtuners...pcv-system.html

 

Interesting that the author does not recommend draining the catch can back into the oil pan

[Funky Phil]

because of moisture most likely

[importwarrior]

http://www.streettun...er_fittings.htm

 

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/b/stm_evo_valve_cover_fittings.jpg

 

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/b/stm_evo_10an_rear_valve_cover_fitting4.jpg

 

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/b/stm_evo_valve_cover_fittings2.jpg

Edited April 22, 2014 by importwarrior

[jszucs]

Interesting that the author does not recommend draining the catch can back into the oil pan

 

Nor do I. There should not be a large enough loss to really worry about it. You should be checking and topping off as you go. Need to check the catch can anyways. Would rather it suck all the oil vapor, water vapor and anything else small and flaoting around it can suck up out.

[mstieg]

Nor do I. There should not be a large enough loss to really worry about it. You should be checking and topping off as you go. Need to check the catch can anyways. Would rather it suck all the oil vapor, water vapor and anything else small and flaoting around it can suck up out.

 

I agree in theory that the crud sucked up, vapor, and possible moisture is not what I want going back into circulation. Yet most catch cans have that bottom nip for routing to the oil pan. I haven't seen a good one yet that is clear/see-through to cap off or w/out that bottom nip. Any recommendations for one like that that simply collects this unwanted gook? If it collects quickly, that would be a sign of another concern I'd think.

[jszucs]

Something like this? Works like the tube on the side of a gas tank on a bike.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmocc-rb/overview/

 

You can just add a site to your own can

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1371/overview/

[importwarrior]

rather than the plug or bolt on the bottom of the catch

can. you can use a nipple and connect a hose. then route

to valve. run a hose for easy access and then drain when

necessary,

 

well worst case get a hose off the bottom of Catch can,

use a valve to drain the contents safely when necessary.

 

http://galleryplus.ebayimg.com/ws/web/121072346406_1_0_1/1000x1000.jpg

Edited April 22, 2014 by importwarrior

[ucw458]

Got it mounted in the car. Can't run the last hose until I get the pipe for the turbo inlet. But so far it looks like it's gonna work great. Not bad for a $15 part.

 

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/Separator/DSCN0012_zps4a91ff29.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think this is why this separator clogs in BMW applications. The mold for this has to be 2 parts. So the stock bend has an irregular shape inside and casting flash. That can cause particles to get stuck there and clog up the outlet.

 

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1389418944_1/E52-E53-X5-Alpina-font-b-Oil-b-font-font-b-Separator-b-font-Crankcase-Ventilation.jpg

 

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/Separator/DSCN0021_zps78139f06.jpg

 

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/Separator/DSCN0019_zps0f753421.jpg

 

 

 

 

Since that bend doesn't help when installing it into a SQ I cut it off. The pipe size is perfect to tap it for 1/8" NPT and install a pipe nipple with some RTV on the threads. Now the pipe nipple could cause particles to build up over time but you can always unscrew it every 10k miles or so and clean the separator.

 

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/Separator/DSCN0009_zps61d43430.jpg

[Maxzillian]

Looks great and looks like it packages well!

[importwarrior]

my question is

would it be better to hook the hose to the down pipe rather then the intake before turbo?

[mstieg]

my question is

would it be better to hook the hose to the down pipe rather then the intake before turbo?

 

Phinko did this and seemed to like the results.

 

Q: Does this produce enough vacc. at idle from the exhaust?...and not too much under boost?

If so, is a restrictor needed to prevent TOO MUCH vacc? I believe the manual calls for 3-6psi IIRC. The size of the IN/OUT needed is my 2nd question. 3/4" might be too big, but stock 1/4" is too small per consensus.

Edited August 25, 2014 by mstieg

[ucw458]

my question is

would it be better to hook the hose to the down pipe rather then the intake before turbo?

 

The answer to that question is, Do you have to smog the car? If you do then putting it in the exhaust will probably make you fail a smog test.

 

Phinko did this and seemed to like the results.

 

Q: Does this produce enough vacc. at idle from the exhaust?...and not too much under boost?

If so, is a restrictor needed to prevent TOO MUCH vacc? I believe the manual calls for 3-6psi IIRC. The size of the IN/OUT needed is my 2nd question. 3/4" might be too big, but stock 1/4" is too small per consensus.

 

Having a separator that flows more than your engine produces isn't a bad thing. It will only pull out what is there. The one I'm using works well and only costs $15 on ebay. You don't need a restrictor because it can't pull too much vacuum. You see restrictors more on vacuum pump setups.

[Turbo Cary]

So this BMW separator, you just leave the port you tapped open to atmosphere? Or do you run it back to your pan?

 

I have thought about buying a catch can but am not quote sure how to run it. Should I run a line to the pan or just leave the pan open/or plug it off?

[ucw458]

There's an inlet (side) outlet (top) and oil drain (bottom). Side inlet to VC, top to turbo intake and bottom to the pan. I ran the drain to the pan. Better to have the oil drain to the pan than a catch can. Inside a catch can it does the bearings no good.

[mstieg]

... I ran the drain to the pan. Better to have the oil drain to the pan than a catch can. Inside a catch can it does the bearings no good.

 

I don't think the small amount collected (less than 1/2 litre in the bigger cans) will be enough to starve an engine of bearing lubing oil. Should drain periodically every __th oil change anyhow.

 

To your earlier point - thanks for answering. As I read it, the exhaust can't pull too much vacc. while a vacc. pump is capable of doing so. What about the turbo intake as separator vacc source? That's the stock source and I was planning on going that route, but whether warranted or not, am not a fan of pulling anything in through my turbo. Although unlikely that oil, mist, or crud will come from the separator, I'd rather not chance it. Sounds like a downpipe bung is the best route?

[Funky Phil]

Mstieg, my exhaust pulls enough vac at idle that you can hear it overcome the stock pcv and make it close.

 

As long as I have the full exhaust on, it doesn't seem to pull too much as far as I can tell. No smoking or noticeable loss on the dipstick.

Edited August 27, 2014 by Funky Phil

[mstieg]

Mstieg, my exhaust pulls enough vac at idle that you can here it overcome the stock pcv and make it close.

 

As long as I have the full exhaust on, it doesn't seem to pull too much as far as I can tell. No smoking or noticeable loss on the dipstick.

 

Thanks for reply. Further - where is your bung for that? After WB O2 sensor? Wouldn't expect much crud going through to mess w/ readings, but preventing that plus temps seems about right?

[Funky Phil]

Its after the wb02

[mstieg]

Great thanks. So yours is only hooked up to the rear VC port? What's the point of the front PCV valve if it's being sucked shut from inside by the overpowering exh vacc?

 

Why not just cap the front PCV port or combine with rear to exh. vacc line?