Turbo Cary

You can always tap the EGR port to use a threaded plug for it. But it may be better to do that on the head itself so you aren't allowing hot exhaust gasses into the intake manifold (keeps it cooler) As for the part throttle concern what did you gap your spark plugs to? Should be around .26-.28 Mechanical or hydraulic lifter setup in your engine? Done a TPS reset?

I don't make these rules I just follow them

Do you know what they call Bigfoot in Europe? Bigmeter

When I deleted my ABS module from the CQ it was filled with a nasty gunk inside of it. Chances are that's probably why yours is no good. All you need to do to eliminate it is take the line from the master cylinder to the ABS module and route it to the proportioning valve under the master cylinder. You can get brake line and cut/flare it yourself or just loop the hard line you have already a bunch of times until it can connect down there. I did the build my own method. Another option is to have someone make you a steel braided line with the right length and fittings. FWIW the ABS doesn't really do well on these cars anyways and you can free up a bunch of room in the engine bay by deleting it.

If you're color blind do what my color blind friend does and use a shade/color wheel to try and match things up. He is an aircraft mechanic and he can't see blues or greens. I never knew he had that until we were at a car show and he asked me what color a green car was. I'm sure it's gotta suck for wiring stuff. You could also use a multimeter to determine your power and ground first, they usually are the solid color no stripe, or they are a larger gauge. Once you figure that out and can get something powered up, use the speaker output wires and try to match up which speaker goes where while it plays sound

Bolting to the hubs is good for setting up corner weight and doing an alignment. The ones I linked can be used with a plate/level to set camber, caster, and toe. Plus if your car is going to be up in the air being worked on you keep the suspension loaded up so the shocks won't leak down. Yeah they are super expensive but if you consider what you can charge to corner weight a car you could pay them off after a few jobs.

I tried to put your image into my message but only the link appears. The issue is you're linking a url without the .jpg or .gif at the end. For example here is this image from my imgur. I selected Other Media and insert image from URL And here is the same link to the image but without the jpg but linking to the imgur post https://imgur.com/a/JL02IX2 Now here is how your Flickr link looks using insert from url... It doesn't work cause it doesn't have the .jpg and unless you can get the specific url for the image from Flickr it only links to the website itself.

You could get a set of these stands. They bolt to the hub. Really expensive however if the car is sat up for a long time it keeps the suspension compressed so the shocks won't leak gasses. They are also good for setting corner weight if you have scales to use. https://mossmiata.com/hub-alignment-stands-by-paco-motorsports?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlOmLBhCHARIsAGiJg7lkmJ18b4DGUF9W9AJ2P7lky0F_kF4aqmDstH6CsNLQq8KXXcU-kGwaAoDXEALw_wcB

A T25 is a better option than a 14b, those are tiny. What year Miata do you have? I've got a 1990 Eunos I just got done swapping a 99 BP into.

What's up. My dog got a flat

Do you still have the pics? You could upload to Imgur and relink them.

I'm glad this site is back! I kept checking Facebook for an update here and had even contacted a few people for information. I don't even have a Facebook account so all I could see were the posts and a few comments. Super happy I didn't remake an account there. Hopefully more people will come back to this site.

Got my Spec Stage 3 6 puck clutch and fidanza flywheel from 3SX

Speedy, I am running a SAFC 2 which allows me three modes of modifying. You actually only adjust two but the third is calculated when adjusting those. You have your low, mid and high adjustments. You set your throttle point as to where you want that stage of map to begin and end. For example my low is set at 20%. Anything below 20% follows the low adjustments. My high is set at 32% so anything above 32% follows the high map. The mid is the halfway point between the two so between 20 and 32% it is the mid range. By having the ecu not receive a O2 signal it will stay in open loop. Then I'd have to tune it out starting with low range. Its gonna run stupid rich cause the ecu doesn't know what's going on. Then after it is settled I'd run my wot tuning. Why skip the mid? Unless I'm starting to tip lean on wot acceleration I can easily readjust the low to compensate. Of course this is gonna make things a little more difficult with temp changes outside. With the ecu reading the O2 it corrects in real time. I'd have to make tuning adjustments on a more regular basis not using an O2 input to the ECU. I also have a Maf Translator which is basically baseline settings. Running without an O2 input to the ECU running just a translator is pretty much impossible. You can't get the fine tuning adjustments needed.

I had the same question but think of it this way. The ECU in open loop runs on specific parameters. If you eliminate the O2 input it keeps the ecu in open loop. Basically I would just have to tune my car based on the stock programming and not ECU compensation.