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Turbo Cary

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Turbo Cary last won the day on March 27 2015

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About Turbo Cary

  • Birthday 12/20/1985

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  • Location
    Charleston, South Carolina
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    29445
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1986
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    California Red
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. Yes you can run two separate MBC's like that. The ECU is going to switch the solenoid no matter what and if you're interrupting the flow to the wastegate then boost will be changed accordingly.
  2. I have an old TurboXS dual stage boost controller if you're interested. It's a manual style with two knobs and an electronic switch. Basically wire it up so you can swap between high or low boost on the fly.
  3. Not sure why y'all continue using fusible links. I know and understand how they work but automotive manufacturers have long since stopped using them. With as old as these cars are now going to a better designed fuse block and wiring harness would be ideal. You keep all the functionality, lose weight, and have an easier time diagnosing things. I eliminated all the fusable links on my old SQ and never had an issue. You can get a universal wiring kit from Painless for about 500-800 dollars. All your wiring would be new, simplified, and easier to diagnose.
  4. I don't see how it's going to be much different than an NA V8 besides the fact it will have positive pressure value areas of the maps. Are you going to run the same size injectors and run them paired in batch fire? Not sure how TB is normally set up in TS. I'm debating making a Microsquirt setup for a little 125 bike I'm about to buy. Basically a Honda Grom clone so I'm curious as to how TBI is setup since this bike only has one injector
  5. Ideally yes they are different that the shock tube can travel lower into the shock but if you use stock springs then it won't compress as much. This shouldn't be a problem.
  6. Start with all your grounds, check every one, one by one. Make sure the bolts are clean etc. Next check all your powers. Start at the battery, then fuse blocks, and down the line. Electrical diagnostics work best when done in a specific order.
  7. I live around the corner from a scrap yard and they have been lack luster. Originally they were a "We pull it for you place" and wouldn't let customers actually go see the cars they were getting parts off of. They even had a few SQ there and wouldn't let me see them. Eventually the place was about to go under so they changed their business dynamic to a you pull the part. Either way every time I've gone the vehicle's aren't in the best of shape and most stuff has been stripped haphazardly.
  8. I have used one of those before and they work amazing! Literally in 5 seconds the nut was glowing red and came right off. That was used to take a catalytic converter bolt off a 5.3 GM engine. I think if you did that in stages from one end of the hub to the other and tried to move the bolt it would work.
  9. Use a map gas torch to heat the knuckle up. Get it good and hot then try spinning the bolt in the knuckle. But be careful about it possibly snapping. I would spray it with PB blaster and allow to soak for a day or so before attempting
  10. You can always tap the EGR port to use a threaded plug for it. But it may be better to do that on the head itself so you aren't allowing hot exhaust gasses into the intake manifold (keeps it cooler) As for the part throttle concern what did you gap your spark plugs to? Should be around .26-.28 Mechanical or hydraulic lifter setup in your engine? Done a TPS reset?
  11. I don't make these rules I just follow them
  12. Do you know what they call Bigfoot in Europe? Bigmeter
  13. When I deleted my ABS module from the CQ it was filled with a nasty gunk inside of it. Chances are that's probably why yours is no good. All you need to do to eliminate it is take the line from the master cylinder to the ABS module and route it to the proportioning valve under the master cylinder. You can get brake line and cut/flare it yourself or just loop the hard line you have already a bunch of times until it can connect down there. I did the build my own method. Another option is to have someone make you a steel braided line with the right length and fittings. FWIW the ABS doesn't really do well on these cars anyways and you can free up a bunch of room in the engine bay by deleting it.
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