Turbo Cary

That is clean!

If you're gonna swap the harness you might want to consider doing a few things to the harness first 1.) Remove all the old wire loom and install fresh loom/tape 2.) Remove any unnecessary wires for things you aren't going to use (purge valve, EGR, etc) by unpinning the specific component wires at the ECU connectors and deleting them from the harness. 3.) Check all the wiring for breaks, damaged insulation, good splices (if the components share circuits) 4.) Use a long coat hanger to pull the harness from the engine bay into the cabin while having an assistant help feed the harness through. 5.) Check all grounds for corrosion and add some solder to the crimps between the wires and eyelets

The reroute is something I did on the Miata. I didn't do it on the CQ. It's kinda like what you have to do with a 4G63 swap. A CQ is SOHC and the flow I assume is naturally from the bottom front to the top rear and back to the front out of the top of the intake (where the thermostat is) On a Miata they took a FWD engine and put it in a RWD car. So that means they blocked off the rear where the thermostat would normally be and instead put it at the front. You block off the front thermostat housing port with a plate, then install the thermostat at the rear of the head with a proper water neck to run the radiator hose, coolant temperature sensor, and heater core feed. If the reroute isn't done and you run a turbo then cylinders 3 and 4 begin to heat soak. That can lead to premature head gasket failure or detonation. It sucks on the Starions that coolant has to pass through the intake manifold. From a TBI perspective it makes sense since you want the manifold warm to help atomize the fuel/prevent puddling. On the MPI manifolds the port is more separate from the intake which isn't so bad.

Nice. Run the same setup on the CQ and you'll be good. If you make a shroud just add a few open areas for vent flaps that can allow air to pass at higher speeds. Another thing to consider is making ducting in the front of the radiator to help channel the air into the radiator and intercooler. I saw a big drop in temps with my Miata just adding ducting. I'm also running a triple pass aluminum radiator and single fan with a coolant reroute so it passes all the way through the head instead of cylinders 3 and 4 having stagnant coolant flow)

Get a. Brushless fan setup with a fan controller. You'll need a sensor for it but most kits come with the fan, controller and sensor. Pricey but works great

Where are you located? Got any pics?

Yes you can run two separate MBC's like that. The ECU is going to switch the solenoid no matter what and if you're interrupting the flow to the wastegate then boost will be changed accordingly.

I have an old TurboXS dual stage boost controller if you're interested. It's a manual style with two knobs and an electronic switch. Basically wire it up so you can swap between high or low boost on the fly.

Not sure why y'all continue using fusible links. I know and understand how they work but automotive manufacturers have long since stopped using them. With as old as these cars are now going to a better designed fuse block and wiring harness would be ideal. You keep all the functionality, lose weight, and have an easier time diagnosing things. I eliminated all the fusable links on my old SQ and never had an issue. You can get a universal wiring kit from Painless for about 500-800 dollars. All your wiring would be new, simplified, and easier to diagnose.

I don't see how it's going to be much different than an NA V8 besides the fact it will have positive pressure value areas of the maps. Are you going to run the same size injectors and run them paired in batch fire? Not sure how TB is normally set up in TS. I'm debating making a Microsquirt setup for a little 125 bike I'm about to buy. Basically a Honda Grom clone so I'm curious as to how TBI is setup since this bike only has one injector

Ideally yes they are different that the shock tube can travel lower into the shock but if you use stock springs then it won't compress as much. This shouldn't be a problem.

Did you try a TPS/Idle reset?

Start with all your grounds, check every one, one by one. Make sure the bolts are clean etc. Next check all your powers. Start at the battery, then fuse blocks, and down the line. Electrical diagnostics work best when done in a specific order.

I live around the corner from a scrap yard and they have been lack luster. Originally they were a "We pull it for you place" and wouldn't let customers actually go see the cars they were getting parts off of. They even had a few SQ there and wouldn't let me see them. Eventually the place was about to go under so they changed their business dynamic to a you pull the part. Either way every time I've gone the vehicle's aren't in the best of shape and most stuff has been stripped haphazardly.

I have used one of those before and they work amazing! Literally in 5 seconds the nut was glowing red and came right off. That was used to take a catalytic converter bolt off a 5.3 GM engine. I think if you did that in stages from one end of the hub to the other and tried to move the bolt it would work.