Ideas for overheating.. HALP ME!

[BOOSTED88tsi]

Now this isn't your normal over heating situation. Anyone who has had one of these cars and has either done: doughnuts, drifted it, or maybe even just drove the car hard for a while knows they get hot quick.

So while drifting my car i can do two or three runs (40 seconds max, heater on 90* full blast) in a 5 minute period and then the car starts getting warm over half to 3/4 on the gauge. I could be 70* out or 105* and basically the same thing happens. Its got an aluminum rad already and 180 t-stat. I'm only running a pusher fan right now, but i've mad multiple setups on multiple cars with the same out come. I don't know if the water pump just aerates the coolant because of the high revs or what but i need to find a way to stop it haha. Having to pull off the track and do cool run laps is getting pretty old. Do i need to make a bigger water pump pulley so that it doesn't spin as fast at the high rpms? Ideas and suggestions are needed fellas, trying to keep this motor alive as long as possible as its the best g54b ive ever had.

[MikeMeyerhoff]

is there room to add a puller fan?

 

 

instead of making a larger wp pulley, you could pick up an underdrive crank pulley to slow down the wp. Is the lower radiator hose reinforced (spiral metal)?

[Crazy larry]

clutch fan and shroud... put the stock radiator back in if Not enough room... get a fan and shroud out of a D50 truck...

[apate]

Try "Water Wetter"

 

[hachi_destroyer]

need more hood vents! and if you can fab stuff then you could fab some shrouds to direct air to the important places instead of allowing it to go where it wants.

[ucw458]

Install some electric fans and put in a bypass switch so while on a run you can have the fans on 100% of the time.

 

 

A clutch fan isn't a great way to go. It's gonna be noisy and power robbing at high RPM.

[Guest]

More fans? Better fan shroud & radiator insulation/ more vent hole?/ waaay bigger radiator? Edited July 6, 2013 by louswheel01

[aknorthstar]

check out Engine Ice Engineice.com

[patra_is_here]

from your description, it sound like essentially you're getting heat soaked. in that, you're not overheating right away, but gradually you keep producing more heat than you can dissipate over an extended use, rather than within a few minutes of use.

 

what is the flow capacity for that radiator? if you can't pass enough coolant through the radiator during a certain time frame, then it's gonna be pretty useless. yeah the AL has great heat dissipation, but if the core design is a bottle neck for volume, that could cause some of your issues. can you find the specs for the radiator?

 

running only a pusher fan is not the best option at all, thats for sure. plus, you probably need to build some sort of air tract in the front using some sheet metal. the tract walls should be perpendicular to the radiator, NOT flared out like a funnel. definitely get a puller fan and proper fan shroud.

 

 

deal with the essentials for a set up and let us no.

[Convette]

Proper ducting will make a huge difference. Make sure that you have no "holes"where air can pass around the rad. I've done a lot of wind tunnel work, and it makes a HUGE difference. Grab a roll of aluminum tape and go to town. Also a vented hood...and a puller fan. Ford Taurus fan, on the cheap pulls mad cfms. Or just swap the f ing thing and enjoy... Lol

[JohnnyWadd]

I don't know if the water pump just aerates the coolant because of the high revs or what but i need to find a way to stop it haha.

 

I noticed on my 88 when I did the UR pulley it actually ran cooler , that was back when I was doing some autocross after work and was doing some high revs at the course and after because I was all jazzed up. So maybe the water pump does foam up the coolant

 

Proper ducting will make a huge difference.

 

I am trying this ducting stuff on my '89 , I have a grill that is "ducted"

 

instead of making a larger wp pulley, you could pick up an underdrive crank pulley to slow down the wp.

 

I agree , underdrive that blowdrier w/p pulley.

Edited July 6, 2013 by JohnnyWadd

[Guest]

Or just swap the f ing thing and enjoy... Lol

 

lol from someone who knows. The G54 just don't like being beaten on.

[Shelby]

 

 

lol from someone who knows. The G54 just don't like being beaten on.

 

come on guys , my truck had a lot smaller rad then the quest uses and on back to back 20 lb boost 1/4 mile runs i'd barely get to 190f , that rad is too small for the engine and forget the electric fans go with mechanical thermo clutch fan set up and not the el cheapo one the good one ,,having the proper shrould on there is a must

another thing is any heater hoses closed off or bypassed , i'd use a 160f stat with a 1/8th hole drilled in it or a 180 with 2 1/8 th " holes drilled in it

 

it was like this the Tainter's would make a run and by the time they got back from the return road the engine was still over heated doing the same run by the time I was 1/2 way back the return road the temp was back to normal , while they had to run all 3 fans for 15-20 minutes to cool their car down ,

you'll never notice any loss of HP from a good clutch fan set up

[ucw458]

you'll never notice any loss of HP from a good clutch fan set up

 

Yes you will

 

Clutch fan engaged at higher RPM robs more HP the faster you spin it. 10-15 HP loss average. 40 amp draw on the alt powering electric fans is about a 1/2 HP loss. Electric fans are far more efficient which is why every car manufacturer now uses electric fans. Even on big trucks.

[Guest]

I have not seen clutch fans on any late model cars. Even Chevy did away with them on there big trucks around 2006, maybe earlier.

 

Heck, they're doing away with hydraulic power steering for the same reason, fuel economy. Most manufacturers have an electric steering rack. Give em time they'll figure out how to do away with belt driven alternators and AC units.

[Cloud81918]

Try the Waterwetter-type stuff. It may help you a bit with cavatation as well.

 

I suspect you are right about captivation being an issue. Designers back then weren't expecting extended periods of high RPM use. Many other similar era cars have that issue, an underdrive pulley will help.

 

While you are at it fan it up a bit more too if you can.

 

Give it all the barrels and kill the issue before it kills the motor.

[Shelby]

I want one of you guys show me any new car running at less then 230f, don't go by the dash gauge if it's lucky enough to even have one show me with a touchless temp probe,, heck GM don't even turn on a rad fan below 224f and i'm sure the rest do the same

 

1/2 on any meter means nothing , just depends on how wide the range is made .

but you do as you want

but this is to the OP you asked for sugestions, if you get some you don't like , keep reading till you find the one you want

[SOTTY]

As John said earlier the Taurus fan is a killer and cheap fan readily found in any junk yard also i use a thermo switch (Derale) set up on my turds so i can run both fans at the same time and control when and at what temp i want the fans to kick in , cheap set -up that works well for me in the Vegas heat , ducting is another great idea don't forget a air diversion panel , Motocam / Tim makes a excellent ADV that not only looks good but does the air re-directing very well indeed .

[Guest]

I think like previously mentioned, better ducting, better insulation and more fans will go a long way.

 

I've seen guys use Home Depot foam insulation in between fan shoruds and rad.

[ucw458]

I want one of you guys show me any new car running at less then 230f, don't go by the dash gauge if it's lucky enough to even have one show me with a touchless temp probe,, heck GM don't even turn on a rad fan below 224f and i'm sure the rest do the same

 

I don't have a new car to give you a temp reading. So I looked up a T-stat for a 2012 chevy 1500 since you mentioned GM. The OEM replacement stat is a 187 degree. I can't see how an engine with a 187 degree stat can have an operating temp of 230 degrees. Heck my G54B has an OEM style 195 stat and after it opens it runs at 176 degrees. I know this because I watched it on my laptop. Temp would spike to 195, stat would open and then the temp settles down to 176. So how can an engine with a 187 degree stat have an operating temp of 230 degrees?

 

 

Furthermore, excessive engine operating temps leads to excessive combustion temps. Excessive combustion temps can raise the NOX emissions ten fold. Causing any vehicle to fail smog.

[Technology]

Tuning, bra. Make it run richard and it'll cool it off. Fuel is a MAJOR coolant for the engine.

[Shelby]

 

 

I don't have a new car to give you a temp reading. So I looked up a T-stat for a 2012 chevy 1500 since you mentioned GM. The OEM replacement stat is a 187 degree. I can't see how an engine with a 187 degree stat can have an operating temp of 230 degrees. Heck my G54B has an OEM style 195 stat and after it opens it runs at 176 degrees. I know this because I watched it on my laptop. Temp would spike to 195, stat would open and then the temp settles down to 176. So how can an engine with a 187 degree stat have an operating temp of 230 degrees?

 

 

Furthermore, excessive engine operating temps leads to excessive combustion temps. Excessive combustion temps can raise the NOX emissions ten fold. Causing any vehicle to fail smog.

 

this is my last effort at trying to reason with you,, you can't seem to understand your own writeing,, what turns on an electric fan and what is a thermostats job , if a rad fan don't turn on until 224f how can the engine be running 176f ,, the ONLY job a thermostat has is to open and close ,, by your own description none of yours is working properly

 

oh and on mox lean fuel and high combustion temps causes monoxides,,we never had a problem with them until after they started trying to run cleaner,,but then again you haven't had 40 years to learn this stuff have you ,, once created the only way to remove them is to burn them up,,thats the job of the catilitic convertor

 

and 176f was the same temps myMPi was running on a 100f day with a 180 stat with air bleed holes in it

[mistapickles]

need more hood vents! and if you can fab stuff then you could fab some shrouds to direct air to the important places instead of allowing it to go where it wants.

I agree with Hachi and Shelby. I have a spare hood that I made for my car that you could try out. My cooling fans failed two weeks ago and I've been rolling my car in 125 Vegas heat hard, barely makes it above 1/4 on the temp gauge... maybe try taking your hood off to see. And as far as what Shelby said, in a less grumpy old man way, you're fans aren't coming on at a proper temp.

[Guest]

I agree with Hachi and Shelby. I have a spare hood that I made for my car that you could try out. My cooling fans failed two weeks ago and I've been rolling my car in 125 Vegas heat hard, barely makes it above 1/4 on the temp gauge... maybe try taking your hood off to see. And as far as what Shelby said, in a less grumpy old man way, you're fans aren't coming on at a proper temp.

 

lol Yo man, we headed in that direction ourselves! One distant day we'll be on this forum "You young whipper snappers with your fancy flying cars think everything is about flying! These cars were made with wheels and tires for a reason!"

 

 

[BOHO]

I'm running 50/50 and redline water wetter with a gutted thermostat right now. My temps are not consistent at all. Running down the interstate at 75mph, 2700rpms running 14.6-14.8 afr's I'm running 192 fairly consistent. As soon as I went to 80mph 3000rpms my temp starting rising, leveling off at 210. Same AFR. Fans running. I'm not real sure what could be going on. When I first start it up It gets to 180-185, fans come on and it stays around there for a while no matter what I do.