yzrider Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Great stuff! I feel bad for that tire. Pretty mangled already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOSTED88tsi Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Drop it lower and Pre-load them girls. Also as john stated you can get stiffer springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taeisallin Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Whoa!! That's sick dude. Awesome!I'm definitely doing my truck with these wheels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attack vector Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Thanks guys! :-) Yeah I know the car looks like it should be about a half-inch lower... but honestly I'll just be thrilled if I can resolve my current fitment issues. Also the goal here was to have a bit more vintage "road-race" feel and less "stancewars" vibe. So I think in that respect the current ride-height works out. I have a few more details to add to this setup so I'll still have one or two more updates. When I'm done I'll aggregate all the info here and work with an admin to get all of this info made in to a 'sticky' thread for others who want to do custom lug-centric wheels. But thanks again to everyone who posted up here with advice and ideas! Much appreciated it all helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 this has been a satisfying thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creakyjoints Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 I know what your mean. Smoke done and took a nice nap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attack vector Posted July 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2013 So my follow up a month later having driven on this setup a bit more. My final thoughts for anyone else who wants to rock the 10-12 stance would be that I probably should've gone with a -10 offset instead of a -20. The -20 has been kinda screwing me all the way. There's almost full-time contact in the rears and I've got the inner fenders shaved down dangerously close to having the inner and outer fender skins de-laminate on top. In order to finish my current setup properly I could benefit from a set of rear camber plates and some more aggressive springs to eliminate travel. This would fix the last of my woes... So in summary:> run a -20et on a 11.5" wheel... or rock a -10et on a 12" wheel.> If you want to run 17x12 with -20et out back then you will need camber plates and stiff springs or raise up the back of the car... which I'm probably gonna do for the rest of the season to stop my sidewalls from melting. So if you rock my exact setup::: D2's with the default D2 spring rates, no rear camber plates and slam the car about 2" below stock height you'll end up with this.This is about how much rubber I loose every time I take the car out. Eventually my sidewalls will give out unless I raise the tail a quarter of an inch... at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creakyjoints Posted July 30, 2013 Report Share Posted July 30, 2013 I would like to see this in person. Maybe we could meet up sometime if I can get my car to work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attack vector Posted July 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 I would like to see this in person. Maybe we could meet up sometime if I can get my car to work! I've been itching to take the Starion out to another meetup. I'll have to look around and see if anyone is organizing anything soon. I'd love it if the Japanese Nostalgic Car guys would do a few summer meets. Those are nice and small and it's easy to get to chatting people up. I'll dig around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted July 31, 2013 Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 So -20 on 11.5 would be your choice if you could do it over again? I was thinking 9 would be plenty for me on the front. Are you still concerened about the barrels not being perfect? Great thread man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attack vector Posted July 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2013 So -20 on 11.5 would be your choice if you could do it over again? I was thinking 9 would be plenty for me on the front. Are you still concerened about the barrels not being perfect? Great thread man. I think either configuration, 11.5" with -20et or a 12" with a -10et would both get you basically the same result. I think in the big picture, anything with a zero or negative offset is going to look great on our cars. The barrel will be huge. If you want "poke & stretch" (I hate that term) then you'll want a negative offset as it will encourage that look. In the end the difference visually will be very minor. But if you want the bonkers 'MAD MAX' look... then I would do 12" with -20 and just plan on rolled fenders, camber plates and aggressive spring rates. Also I keep neglecting to mention that without my stretched rubber There's just no way I'd be clearing anything with a -20. Stretched rubber is imperative. I feel like my setup is at the absolute edge of what you can fit under our cars without full-blown wheel-well modification. (cutting out the inner fender skin, shaving the outer-skin flush on the inside, and maybe even a pulled, flared arch. Ironically, the fronts have been great even at 10" wide. Yes I rolled my fenders & removed my plastic liners and yes I rub a little when I turn and hit bumps... but my sidewalls are not melting away. I'm not worried about my fronts at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farrk007 Posted November 1, 2013 Report Share Posted November 1, 2013 most informative wheel/stud/spec thread I've read so far on here AV, so did you replace the studs yet? and what was your concern with the oems that were on? was is age...and if you went with longer studs, couldn't you simply get open-ended bolt and have the excess metal sticking out on the other side once its all bolted?? or did that not just "match" the look you were going for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 Far.... I think his concern was with going wtih lug centric rims. Lug centric use the lugs to center and mount the wheel over hub centric which use the center hub to center the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autotr8er2 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 (edited) I know I'm late getting into the discussion..... Hub Centric or Lug Centric, what you are attempting to defeat and describe is Radial Runout. Neither will help with cheaply manufactured wheels. Edited November 14, 2013 by autotr8er2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attack vector Posted December 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Hey guys! Sorry I haven't been on lately. I appreciate the questions and thoughts about the lugs. For the record I was probably being a bit over-concerned about switching to a lug-centric mount. I think I had some concerns about shear forces on the lugs because those custom wheels weigh about 50lbs a piece! LOL (So not really a performance-centric modification, heheh) The tire place did use a lug-positioner and not a cone-type hub positioner when they balanced the wheels at my request. And while these wheels are "heavy-duty"... it's obvious they are meant to be cheap disposable steelies for rock-crawlers and oval racing, etc... lots of warbles in the steel and some pretty think weld beads. While I don't think anything short of a bomb could destroy them, they ARE cheap wheels. One of them required almost 5 oz of counter weight to balance properly. LOL I've never seen anyone put that much weight on a wheel before. However they did a good job at the shop because the car rides smooth as silk. Zero vibration at any speed from those battle-tank steelies. So it is possible to get a smooth ride from a cheap wheel :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laodicea Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 But if you want the bonkers 'MAD MAX' look... then I would do 12" with -20 and just plan on rolled fenders, camber plates and aggressive spring rates. Yes I do.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attack vector Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 Yes I do.... GO FORTH AND MAKE US PROUD!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laodicea Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 I did...check it out on the Mad-Dax goes Bonkers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtreme Industries Posted December 16, 2013 Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 can we get a side shot of your car with those wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attack vector Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 can we get a side shot of your car with those wheels? Not the best pics. But these were easy and quick to link toI took some nice SLR pics at the end of the summer that I still need to post. I'll try to get those up soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xtreme Industries Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 that looks great. filling the fenders like that make a world of difference. looks like a mean purpose built street car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hachi_destroyer Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 @attack vector what is that muffler you've got there? Who makes it/model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonnieJ Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Awesome info. I wanted to do 17x10 0ET and space the rear out so I can still rotate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attack vector Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Xtreme,Thanks dude! It looks even better in person! will try to get some better pics up eventually. Hachi,The muffler is just a regular old magna-flow muffler with a couple of 2" pieces of straight pipe welded on to make the sleeper-look tips. On the other end the pipe is all 3" cat-less all the way back to the engine. Any decent muffler shop should be able to make you a similar setup at a decent price. Ronnie,Thanks man! Be sure to post pics when you get your car set up. Would love to see it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hachi_destroyer Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 sweet thanks, ive been looking to find something that looks sleeper -ish like that. Just haven't made the decision yet haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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