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F: 17x10 - R: 17x12 advice from the pros


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i just re read this entire thread, how about a picture of your engine bay, i didnt know you had a 4g in there until i re read.

 

Not the best pics, but a better view of what's going on in there.

 

547293_3756463467849_2124846890_n.jpg

 

601536_3756463547851_65470419_n.jpg

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name='attack vector' timestamp='1394038070' post='1411751']

Not the best pics, but a better view of what's going on in there.

 

547293_3756463467849_2124846890_n.jpg

 

601536_3756463547851_65470419_n.jpg

Man you talk about a clean wicked setup this is it.[/u]
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Thanks guys!

It's pretty dirty in those pics, but it does look pretty good when you see it in person. I'll never understand why Mitsu didn't put the 4g63 in the Starion. If they did these cars would've gone down in history as legendary as the Supra or the Skyline GTR. But I think we all know that Mitsu is a classic story of always close but not quite, LOL!. As Starquest owners I think we all just enjoy the pain :-)

 

Anyway I gotta be honest if I had to do it all over again... I wouldn't. The build was a nightmare. It took years and I had to do it twice to get it right. I think going MPI on the G54B is much easier.

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How is the ride with the with the 4G63 in the car looks like a real beast?

 

Randy, The ride is... interesting. It dynoed at 433rwhp. And the ACT clutch and the stock 88 Starion 5 speed are both not happy about all that TQ and HP. Under WOT at low gears the clutch will actually just slip. I need to start planning some upgrades. Probably a Supra tranny or a Tremec. I think once I have that sorted out the car will be a lot more responsive off the line. Though I didn't make the car for racing. I just wanted the experience of driving a balls-crazy vintage Japanese road-racing car on the street. In that respect mission accompished. It's got 280 cams in it so it wants to die at stop-lights all the time. The car requires toe-heel driving constantly. It's slammed with the D2's set to max hard to get as static as possible so the thing skips down the road like a pebble on a lake and the bump-steer is crazy, LOL. It has an Evo 20G turbo so there is some lag with that 2.4l block. It's technically a 4g64 so it still has that truck crankshaft in there :-)

 

Combine all of that and the car is a squirrly handful. I would desdribe the speed and the power like strapping a solid rocket booster to a dump truck. If you're in 3rd on the highway and mash that throttle down (if you can keep the clutch from slipping) the thing will eat up road so fast it's terrifying. The car is definitely in that class where it can bite you if you don't respect it.

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Randy, The ride is... interesting. It dynoed at 433rwhp. And the ACT clutch and the stock 88 Starion 5 speed are both not happy about all that TQ and HP. Under WOT at low gears the clutch will actually just slip. I need to start planning some upgrades. Probably a Supra tranny or a Tremec. I think once I have that sorted out the car will be a lot more responsive off the line. Though I didn't make the car for racing. I just wanted the experience of driving a balls-crazy vintage Japanese road-racing car on the street. In that respect mission accompished. It's got 280 cams in it so it wants to die at stop-lights all the time. The car requires toe-heel driving constantly. It's slammed with the D2's set to max hard to get as static as possible so the thing skips down the road like a pebble on a lake and the bump-steer is crazy, LOL. It has an Evo 20G turbo so there is some lag with that 2.4l block. It's technically a 4g64 so it still has that truck crankshaft in there :-)

 

Combine all of that and the car is a squirrly handful. I would desdribe the speed and the power like strapping a solid rocket booster to a dump truck. If you're in 3rd on the highway and mash that throttle down (if you can keep the clutch from slipping) the thing will eat up road so fast it's terrifying. The car is definitely in that class where it can bite you if you don't respect it.

I like that you have a real pitbull and rottwelier mix there a whole lot of bite.
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  • 2 weeks later...

I like that you have a real pitbull and rottwelier mix there a whole lot of bite.

 

Honestly it's total overkill. And I'm getting to be older and slower, lol... So most of the power is probably lost on me... but damn if it isn't a fun car to drive and even more fun to get peoples reactions when they see it on the road :-)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally getting around to uploading some pics from end of last year after I finished the "stance" project. If you wanna call it that :P

 

Anyway, Enjoy!

 

Full gallery here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/79154882@N04/sets/72157642954859454/

 

But my two favs are below:

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3669/13427991504_35dfdfafa2_b.jpg

 

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2860/13427733213_675041637f_b.jpg

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From those pics looks like a 315mm tire wont fit. Unless I want a monster truck look.

 

Creaky, Yeah I just can't see a 315 working out unless you're going for a full drag look with a nice rake (which could be a really cool look) but yeah I'm running 275's out back with a fairly aggressive stretch and I'm literally at the physical limit of what I could fit under the car. If I was running a -10 offset out back instead of -20 I could go about 14mm lower on the ride height... but not wider on the tire. And remember, the only way my setup clears out back is because I took an angle grinder to my inner fenders and ground the lip down to probably like 5mil at the very top. I don't even think I can run spacers in the front to flush things out because I'm already rubbing all the paint off the inner wells from tire contact when turning. I just got done slapping a bunch of POR-15 inside the wheel wells to last me through the summer season, LOL It all looks cool... but man was this a royal PITA :-)

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Looks awesome man. I'm about to pull the trigger on new wheels myself. Just got to get the numbers right.

 

Thank you sir!! You and DVenable definitely inspired me to go for the bonkers fitment. Can't wait to see what new set of wheels you decide to go with. I'm guessing you're going to have something custom made seeing as your car is a real track warrior! Also I hope you're keeping those HRE 505's... Mostly because I'll want to buy them really really bad... and I don't have the money to. LOL! :-)

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haha yeah I'll be keeping them for a while. The rear barrel cracked again, I got it fixed, but dont trust them as much anymore. SO... I'm about 98% set on CCW classics. I've wanted them my whole life and finally can afford them. Going BIG though. 18x11 in the front and 18x13 in the rear. Just got to make them fit...
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haha yeah I'll be keeping them for a while. The rear barrel cracked again, I got it fixed, but dont trust them as much anymore. SO... I'm about 98% set on CCW classics. I've wanted them my whole life and finally can afford them. Going BIG though. 18x11 in the front and 18x13 in the rear. Just got to make them fit...

 

Wow... those specs... Holy... man I am gonna have to see how you figure that one out. Though if anyone can... it's gotta be you. That is craaaaazy!!!!! Also love the CCW classics. I seriously considered them for my car (not in those specs, heheh) but in the end I had to keep to the crazy budget build philosophy. But I also don't do any performance driving in my car... you on the other hand need a serious wheel. Can't go wrong with CCW.

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I REALLY want to see yoy fit the 11's in the front lol lol....you know i had to had cut half the car to fit the 10's and even with the widebody fenders,steering would be a !@#$%....forget drifting for sure.But hello corners...
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  • 1 month later...

...

So is this a factory rear wheels stud? I was surprised to see them knurled and press-in -vs- the smooth bore / shaved head style of the front.

969099_10200608319948156_125511449_n.jpg

 

My fronts for reference:

969638_10200608320268164_631369412_n.jpg

 

The stud hole from the rear hub showing the knurl artifact. Is this factory? Or was this forced in?

972035_10200608334188512_976721053_n.jpg

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On my Starion I had a lug spin loose from the front hub on me once and had to take the hub nut off through the center of the rim then take the rim with the hub still attached to a welder and have him cut the lug off. The stock front hubs (sometimes) have c-clips on the front of the lugs to keep them from backing out when you bump them putting a rim on. The head of the lug has a flattened head (as shown) that sits flush against a ridge on the back side to keep it from turning. Mine spun in the hole; probably from being over-tightened, and damaged the ridge which then allowed the whole lug/stud to spin. The rear hub/stud combo has splines/knurls (as shown) to keep the lug from spinning in the hub.

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  • 9 months later...
Hate to gravedig, but Attack Vector do you have a write up of your engine swap? I want to do mine like yours where you have all of the water coming out the front of the head.
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