kev

The rear spindles are known to have a ‘click’. There is a TSB on it. It’s not a clunk though and is usually noticeable when going from first to reverse or vise versa. You’ll hear a pretty distinct click as the spacer on the spindle moves and contacts the wheel bearing. It could also do this on light acceleration and deceleration. The TSB amended it by a different, shorter spacer plus two teflon coated washers that simply masked the ‘click’. Also, just relubricating the bearings, spindle and spacer helps. not sure if this is your problem or not but thought I’d throw it out there

I’m curious about this as well. My sub-condenser is mangled from what appears to be a minor front collision sometime in the past. Kills me because I had a spare sub-condenser that was given to me by a local member but I tossed it years back when decluttering my garage in preparation for a move.

I really like my borg warner airworks s257. Spools really quick and pulls hard. Been very reliable but it's on a car that I only drive occasionally. Watch out when it comes to some of those ebay exhaust manifolds. They are known to crack really quickly...as in within weeks. Might want to reach out to Motocam360 (Tim Ennis). I believe he is still working with Chad Samuel to sell his custom exhaust manifolds.

Look for a shop in your area that restores fuel tanks.

They are getting very hard to find for most went to the yards and are long crushed. I've always been a fan of the 83-85 cars. I like the look, especially without the rear spoiler that was added to the flatbodies in 86. My first car was an 84 starion es and I've been searching for a clone of it for 30 years. Have had a few opportunities for ones in a different color though, but even that was 15+ years back. I chuckle how one of the requirements is the chime feature. I turned that off after the first drive in my 84 and it never was switched back on during my ownership. BTW: the ES models have the Velnas computer which is far cooler than both the chime or the digital dash, in my opinion. (well...84 and 85 and in the starion variant only) Anyways, good luck with the search and sorry to clutter the thread!

That makes sense. Never seen one that color with the buckskin interior.

Check the small wire to the starter solenoid.

Note how the original window sticker says buckskin interior. Obviously, that is no longer the case.

I will say that intercooled 87s are definitely interchangeable with 88/89s. I had an issue with trying to install a full differential from an intercooled 86 into an 87 several years back. The geometry wasn't the same. Although, I never tried to pin it down to the exact difference. The parts catalog shows different part numbers for intercooled vs non-intercooled torque tube shafts, housings, and companion flanges.

When you say it won't 're-crank', do you mean the starter isn't working or that it won't fire up on cranking? In either case, start by focusing in on your fusible links. Check them all in detail as well as the connections for the fusible link box.

injectors are known to stick especially if the car has been sitting awhile. Pull them out on put the tips in a cup of carb cleaner for a few hours. I usually do a quick test using a large syringe connected to the injector input, via a piece of tubing, with denatured alcohol. Energize the injector (using an old injector clip connected to a 12V power supply, or even a 9V battery, and push down on the syringe to make sure they spray. If they open and spray, then you the car should at least fire up. If not, it is something prior, such as wiring (including the clips) or the resistor. It's usually the primary injector, black top, that sticks. When this happens to me, I usually can get the car to fire up and chug by pumping the gas pedal during cranking (i.e. the secondary, green top, injector is energizing when pumping the pedal). If this is indeed the problem, and the car fires up and runs semi-decent after a quick cleaning, I'd recommend sending your injectors out for a professional cleaning/inspection. It's pretty cheap and fast (around $15-20 an injector). They do an initial flow test, clean the injector out thoroughly, inspect for internal and external leaks, clean the contacts, and do a post flow test. kev

Thanks! Painting enhances my anxiety haha. I just don't enjoy it. Love the cutting/welding, putty work is bearable, but painting sucks. The paint is so expensive, and spraying is dependent on so many factors....one of which is my own lack of experience because I only paint cars, or exterior panels of cars, once in like every 10 years. I also broke the cardinal rule...painting the in the winter. But if it wasn't for my experimenting with my gun settings, I really believe it would have gone flawlessly. Got the car back together this past weekend and took it out for a drive. Unfortunately, when putting the wheels back on, I saw that one of my axle boots is ripped. So won't be driving it much until I address that. Still need to paint the c-pillars and rear louvers and get back on refinishing my spare set of wheels. The passenger door in this photo is original paint. The front half of the fender is in base coat but the full fender cleared. I'm very happy in how the paint matched, especially using PPG shopline base which isn't known for matching original paint well.

Yes, you have good fuel pressure. Do you hear any increased noise of the fuel pump as it gets warmer? Typically, if the pump is the issue, It will be howling loud when it is hot. If not, I'd put aside fuel (but leave that gauge on there if you can). Injectors may be a culprit though but being that it does run when cold, I'm not sure I'd focus on them at the moment. Any air leaks in the intake system? The smallest of a leak can cause the car to die, especially after it comes up to temp...including vacuum leaks. You can cap off every vacuum port and try it...leaving it at idle (don't drive the car without at least the vac advance connected though, but idling is fine). Any codes on the ECU? In the video, it looks like there is a bunch of stuff added to your car over the years (turbo timer, etc.). Disconnect all of that as you work to diagnose your problem. I've learned to always start with what either I or a previous owner 'changed/altered' on the car.

I use 'SEM trim black' on the window trim and really all of the satin black trim on these cars, as well as any car really. I love the stuff.