kev

Those hardlines aren't that big of a deal. Sometimes they crud up with time anyways. Yes, just bypass them with rubber hose. For the vapor tank; it doesn't have to be that sophisticated, it just needs something to hold it to in order to keep it from moving around. If it was a rebuilt tank that hasn't had any fuel in it yet, I would be just tacking in some steel to make new brackets. If you don't have a welder, or don't want to do that, you could try some JBweld if you have a large enough clamp to get around the tank to press it in position until it cures. The brackets are nothing more than just bent pieces of sheet metal. If memory serves me correctly, there is only one screw in the one bracket. The other two just sandwich the plastic. Could also just band it to the tank from the tank lips. Something like a cinch strap may work

Yeah, I recently did that with my 88 that was sitting since 1998. Do the same for the return line.

What’s wrong with it? The reason I ask is it it simply stopped turning on than it’s most likely the thermostat in the radiator and yes that is the primary. Don’t run the car until you get it resolved! That head will crack very quickly if you don’t have a properly functioning primary fan! Honestly, I’d recommend getting any working fan in there asap and not worry too much about looks yet. wonder why these cars were on the top ten worst used cars list in the 90s?…cracked heads resulting from the fans not turning on.

I think this photo answers the question. The image no starquester ever wants to see I would have brought it down to my house, but it would have made family relations a bit of a struggle, haha. But he still has some of the parts off of it, I'll let him respond. He's in Williamsport btw.

I have a 284-RH laying in a box as well. I think we were the few who were duped into buying them back in the early 2000s. That is the cam that initiated Tim into developing the banshee series cams. The 284-RH is cut down so far that the base circle is ground down almost to the diameter of the cam core itself. Tim got his working but he needed a lot of shims and even had to raise the valve cover for clearance in the rockers. I never did profile it to determine if it was ground from the stock cq core or a proper roller core. I made the assumption that it was from a conquest core.

Welcome to the forum! To confirm what GoldStar is saying: The stumble is a bad vacuum advance. This is probably the most common SQ issue throughout the years. The diaphragm rips inside. The condition that you are describing is common when they just start to rip. The diaphragm still is working enough to advance the timing at first but then the boost pressure pushes past and causes it to spring return back to home...creating the buck. It will eventually tear completely and you will have no advance and see a very noticeable loss of power. Honestly, I'm surprised it still works at all after sitting for that long. Starquest101; always replace the vacuum advance as soon as you buy the car...add it to the common list of normal tune-up items (changing oil, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, etc.). For the rear wiper/defrost; yes it is due to the hatch struts. The struts are so strong that the literally push the hatch out of position over the years. I'm guessing that if you look at the hatch when it it closed, it will be sticking about a 1/4" too far back compared to the side spoiler pieces? This causes the connections on the struts to no longer contact, or have bad contact. You need to pull the headliner, loosen the mounting bolts, and push back the hatch and retighten. Note that two people are needed for this and you need to remove your hatch struts prior to readjusting (unthread them from the 'rear deck' side and let them lay in the trunk area when you are readjusting the hatch). There is another 'quick fix' for this though. Take a look at your hatch struts. There will be a socket on the cylinder end with the female electrical connections. On the rod end, there is a collar containing the male end of the connections. You can loosen this collar and slide it up the rod about 1/4" and retighten...but your hatch still won't be aligned. I don't have too much knowledge on the seatbelts. Surprisingly, mine have always worked, knock on wood, but sometimes they stick and the belt/track needs a good cleaning. I will say that accessing the track to troubleshoot isn't the easies thing to do.

That appears to be the return line, it won't help (it may be the vent, I can't tell in the photo..but it's definitely not the line you want). The high pressure feed line is the one wish swaged connectors that connect to the steel line via the proper threaded adapters. I just posted this photo for another member, its the large line with the female threaded end. You can access this line by getting under the car and looking up between the tank and the rear. Sometimes this joint is hard to separate...don't break your steel fuel line! Another thing you can try is to remove the access door in the trunk and pull the hose for the pickup tube. Insert a new hose into a gallon of gas and fire up the pump to see if it sucks any through. Three things could be the problem: 1. You have a clog in your high pressure line somewhere 2. You have an issue with suction...rusty tank, clogged fuel sock, etc. 3. The pump could simply be bad. Just because it spins, doesn't mean it works. If you unhook the feed line and try suction out of a gas can (both at once), and it still doesn't work, then it is your pump.

Best ones I have of a tank in stock condition (minus an aftermarket stock replacement pump)

The radio wires are part of the main harness of the car. There isn't a separate harness for the radio. It connects to the main harness that routes behind the dash and up into the engine bay that controls all features of the car. All other harnesses plug into the main which will run to the speakers (dash harness, door harnesses, and rear harness). Even the engine harness connects to the main on the passenger side (although it is mainly just to run the gauges). So, you'll have to splice in the connector. It is not easy to swap a main harness, especially on a car that is fully together.

Checked it tonight, it’s definitely clocked to the original marks.

Sounds like you have a clog. It’s usually not the tank, it’s old gas that was still in the lines. Unhook the hp line out of the tank and try it.

This is all that I have. It actually was a few rows longer but it was cut off on the snapshot that I took. Yes, there was a thread about it. It's most likely still on here somewhere. And I forgot about sqperformance

I found this in my files. It shows the cam info for many of the aftermarket camshaft options that were available awhile back. I did not create this file, I simply took a screenshot of it on here years ago. So take it with a grain of salt, but I thought it may be useful to some.

I had those bearing surfaces on the OEM Magna ground by a local machine shop and it is currently in my car! I experimented with profiles using the reground stock (MonstaBanshee) with 3.0L roller rockers and Magna cam with using both the OEM Magna roller rockers and the 3.0L roller rockers. What this shows is there is no valve overlap using the reground stock camshaft...this is due to the wrong contact points of the cam. It will run nice and smooth in the car providing you leave it at the OEM 12 o'clock position (don't try to index in the intake centerline to match the cam card, for the exhaust valve will open and close way too early) but it will definitely not be a performance increase...it will be a decrease. The Magna camshaft showed promise with the 3.0L rockers but the ratio is too high and won't let the intake valve fully close. But if you were to do a regrind on a Magna camshaft, there is some potential with using the 3.0L rockers! I didn't go down this alley...yet. I tossed in the stock Magna cam/rockers and am running it like that for now. If I can get my hands on another Magna camshaft, I may start experimenting

Comparing an OEM Magna roller camshaft to a conquest regrind. You can tell by the photos that the lands on the Magna camshaft are in differrent locations than the stock camshaft...further proving that neither a stock nor a reground stock camshaft will work with the Mitsubishi roller rockers due to the different rocker contact points between the roller rockers and the slip rockers

A lot of the follow up information in this thread was lost due to the data server issue but I'll try to summarize my posts. What I proved is that the MD106245 rocker is indeed the Magna rocker. I was able to get my hands on an OEM magna valve train and camshaft. I also had a single brand new OEM MD106245 rocker still in the package. Comparison:

All photo links repaired in this thread, let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.

All photo links repaired in this thread, let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.

All photo links repaired in this thread, let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.

All photo links repaired in this thread, let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.

All photo links repaired in this thread, let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.

All photo links repaired in this thread, let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.

All photo links repaired in this thread, let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.

All photo links repaired in this thread and ignition switch rebuild recreated. Let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.

All photo links repaired in this thread, let me know if you see a missed link or incorrect picture.