kev

Thanks for the offer but I do have spare 87 computers. It's 88/89 computers that I'm not sure I have. I know I have a few 88/89 cases but they most likely have the guts of an 87 inside them (for I simply swapped the guts on my former 87s). I really haven't had the chance to dive into this issue yet. I'll keep everyone informed.

The bushing or the fulcrum? The bushing is pretty easy to find via Mookeh or other sources, for it is shared with many different automative applications. The fulcrum is a little harder because it is for Mitsubishi applications only. But, last I looked, they are still around via ebay. Original part numbers are in this thread:

I'm sure I do but I need to dig. James didn't publish many specs about his turbos, it was mostly a sales pitch.

I have had the timing light on all four cylinders and simply monitored the flashing. Nothing out of the ordinary noticed but I like the idea of marking the balancer every 90 degrees. For the distributer; I was contemplating tossing in the old original pickup to see if there is any change. I can definitely check the air gaps. I have tried swapping 02 sensors. I had a 2.5" downpipe on it with a single wire new Bosch O2. I swapped it back to the original downpipe and O2 and I haven't had any changes with exception to getting rid of the issue of the aftermarket downpipe slightly contacting the bell housing and rattling. I have thought about injector wiring but I'm not sure where to start with it. I took my time soldering in the new injector clips and used proper water resistent heat shrink tubing. I even did it when the engine was out of the car and I had all the room in the world to work in. I guess I could try swapping in another ECU. Not sure if I have any more spare 88/89 ECUs, I've had several 87s over the years and I believe all of my 88/89 ECU boxes now have the 87 guts inside them but I'll still check them. This all makes me absolutely love the MPI and SDS EMS in my other conquest, haha. Thanks for everyone's help! I'll update this as I learn more and hopefully figure it out.

It bumps slightly in the rich band and then bounces to mid lean band...back and forth. If I let off the gas in the slightest bit, it goes lean/off. If I press on the gas in the slightest, it is about mid to upper stoich. It's just right on that line where you hold the pedal still when cruising under 40mph. Anything faster, it is fine because it is over 2500rpms.

That was my first approach I've already swapped injectors. There was no change. The ones in it now have just been cleaned and flow tested.

I have my stock black 88 running pretty darn good now. I have most of the little pet peeves resolved with exception to this 'stumble' or miss at low rpms. You feel it some at idle but mostly when cruising at under 2500rpms with your foot barely on the gas. I've searched this site and found many posts pertaining to similar symptoms but very rarely did the OP say what the final resolution was. Importwarrier (where is he btw?) said that he had this issue which was the result of a bad distributer cap but I've check that already. What I am positive it is not (because I've replaced or properly checked these as a result of dealing with other previous issues and this stumble remained): MAS ISC/TPS/MPS CTS Knock box primary/secondary injectors transmission FPR no codes Other parts that are new but, who knows, still may be susceptible (but lower on my list to diagnose) NGK 7031 plugs gapped at 28 mils Wires/cap/rotor Distributer rebuilt with new pick-up coil (although is aftermarket) Vacuum advance Fuel Pump with all filters, tank is very clean, lines flushed/cleaned during the build TB seals timing is good jet valves (yes, it still has them) were properly disassembled, cleaned, new seals and orings, and rocker gap is correct when cold I have a narrowband afr guage on the car (yes I know, better to have a wideband but I had it and it at least gives me some data). It dances around a bit while this happens but again it's when I barely have my foot on the pedal. Afrs are good while on the throttle. I figured I'd ask in case anyone has had this issue and could provide some insight but I was going to start with vacuum lines and ignition. The vacuum lines are mostly original. I'm not fond of the spray carb cleaner approach to check them, for I made a fireball years back doing this on a cq, but I'll either start testing them with my vacuum guage or simply replace them all with thick walled silicone lines. I've already swapped the vacuum booster lines with no change. As to ignition, I already checked my connections of the wires to the cap and plugs but I'll do a resistance check on the coil and perhaps swap out the plugs with a known good older set.

Sorry to hear that this was a flatbody hatch, I would never have guessed. I would not try to drill through the tempered glass.

For the cruise control, it is common that the little plastic 'bumper' on the clutch pedal degrades and falls off. When this happens, the switch no longer is depressed when the clutch is disengaged. The switch is solely for the cruise control on our cars. So, the cruise thinks the clutch pedal is depressed and won't let it do anything. One quick fix would be to simply unplug the switch and try it. When the clutch is disengaged, the switch is depressed and the circuit is open (ie it is a NC switch). For the defroster, I've experienced something similar that was the result of an open circuit actually on the defroster lines on the hatch glass. I think your high beam issue is related but I'd have to ponder that a bit while looking over the FSM.

Great job! I can tell that was very tedious. I'd be so nervous to chip or crack the paint. But I guess worst case is that you'd have to paint the spoiler too. The hatch will be replaced.

Ultrasonic cleaning is what whichhunter does as well but they also do a flow test and spray pattern test for under $25/injector. I've actually been using injectorrepair.com recently. They do good work as well and are closer to my location making the shipping quicker. But, I'd love to have an ultrasonic cleaner. It would come in handy. A small unit like that one would be good for cleaning hardware.

Glad to hear that Brett made it out there to drop it off. That yellow hatch was pulled off a car at Harry's U-Pull-It in Bethlehem years back. We had another starion hatch that was on an olive 86 parts car that we jointly bought in 2003 but it went to Steve when Brett offloaded all of the parts. Unfortunately, that one was in better shape. But yes, I believe you are correct in that the spoiler has been off of that hatch prior. The spoilers are a real pain to get off without damaging them but, if you take your time, they do come off. I'm had success with cheap putty knives/5in1 tools which I purposely broke off the plastic handles so they stay nice and flat against the window.

I'm not the biggest fan of Rio Red either but that is mainly because it is the most noticeable when it starts to deteriorate, and it seems to deteriorate faster than all of the other colors. Rio Reds were the also most 'common' conquest seen...but nowadays, you don't see many of these cars at all anymore, so I don't think that point really stands. With that said, I've done color changes a few times with these cars and, to do it right, is a very extensive effort. Unless you literally strip the entire car in and out and respray, you will still find traces of the original color, which will drive you mad down the road. In my opinion, I'd stick with the Rio Red or a similar hue of red.

Not sure if you are the same person who posted this question on facebook or not. If not, there was a response put up yesterday with a video on how to do it. Only thing I'd do differently is not to use a metal screwdriver but rather a nylon trim tool. Also to get the last piece off around the mirror, you have to remove the mirror itself. The mirror is accessible by simply removing the plastic triangular piece on the inside but you will have to pull the door panel to unplug it. Once you remove the nut on the mirror and slide the mirror out with it's electrical cord, there is a screw hidden under the mirror to remove the last trim piece.

MKS sells the kit for in-tank, and it is a VERY reasonable price.

Go figure. Perhaps they switched suppliers over the past few years?

Thank you for putting this together! It's a great list I had success with the following needle bearings; stock drive products (sdp-si.com), P/N S99NH2MBN1512. This is stated in the thread you linked but they are 2mm longer than the OEM part (12mm vs 10mm). They work great but it is even harder to assemble the e-brake mechanism in the caliper with these longer bearings. Another option for the pistons is to send your originals to a shop for reconditioning. I'm pretty sure that is what occurs with the centric full caliper rebuilds. You can see the different type of plating on the pistons and I've actually noticed some evidence of former corrosion through the plating on the last set that I had bought. A thorough blasting and re-plating with a flash-chrome process should amend a corroded piston. I was in the process of going down this route a few years back but was able to lay my hands on a set of centric rebuilds at the time which stopped my efforts. For an assembly lube, I use Dow Corning Vacuum Grease. I've had really good luck with in on multiple cars now. I originally started to use it with silicon based DOT-5 brake fluid but then started using it with DOT-3 systems as well. Just a little bit on the seal is all that is needed to lubricate but limit interaction with the glycol brake fluid. Once the piston is inserted, I put a small bead between the seal and the dust boot. I'm sure others have their own opinions and more pros/cons with this, but it has worked successfully for me over the years. Let me know when you are done with this and I'll move it over to the FAQ forum

I had issues like this in the past with Redhorse brand AN fittings. I will say that I had great success with summit racing's brand of fittings. It sucked to buy all new fittings but I swapped everything out with summit racing's AN fittings and haven't had any leaks at all

I was finally able to turn the key on my black 88 on Saturday. It's been down since march with what started to be an auto to manual swap but found oil in the coolant which lead to a full teardown. It fired right up and runs/drives incredibly smooth!

I have stedebani bushings in my car, the black 85A durometer ones (softer). They were purchased probably closer to two decades ago. I believe these are the same as what MKS sells now. The ride is really good. I don't really have any complaints. It's a little more 'noisy' than stock but this is also combined with coilovers, camber plates, etc. There use to be complaints about the 95A durometer that stedebani use to sell but it was mainly on their motor mounts. I don't recall anyone ever complaining about the bushings. If you chose to install them, grease them good. I also added jerk fittings to all of the sleeves in order to be able to re-grease without teardown in the future (although haven't had to do so to date). But...if yours are good, I'd consider just leaving them go. It's not the easiest job to do. Take a look at techboy's recent thread on the trials he went through recently with this.

Yes, embed. Sorry for my poor terminology. You get this error if you try to embed those specific images: The link could not be embedded because only https URLs are allowed.

I'm not an admin but I believe the way the site is designed now, it only lets urls appear from secure https sites. If it is http, then it won't work.

Looks great! I never tried installing it as an assembly. I've always put it together piece by piece. But for that, it is best to leave the tank out until after the differential is in because it gives you a little more room. The other thing I do with poly bushings is drill each socket, tap and install a jerk fitting. That way it is easy to add a little grease down the road if they start to dry up without disassembling anything.

Was contemplating it this year but it isn't going to work out. Have a great time...I look forward to seeing the photos.

It came from the switch that just opens the pop up lights on my car (the upper right switch)....but it could be the same problem with the switch that turns on the headlights (upper left). I really think it is the switch.