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Everything posted by kev

  1. Crows foot and a long extension will enable you to undo the HP fitting on the top of the box from the top. Just take your time, don't want to strip that fitting. The hard part is snaking out/in the line without bending it (well at least the new one). Other hard part is starting the threads on the HP fitting into the top of the box on that new line. Get that started before you have the line fully constrained in place because you may have to wiggle it around a bit to get the threads started and snug.
  2. Welcome back! I'm mostly just a lurker on FB...it's not really my cup of tea, for many reasons. Going to Carlisle this year? I'm contemplating it; import mainly but possibly Chrysler too. Also want to get out to the lehigh valley in the spring and possibly meet up with a few members.
  3. Yes, it is hard to compare being that I stripped away all of the factory sound-deadening as well as highly modified the car (suspension, exhaust, etc. etc). So, I really only have my stock 88 to compare it with. I will say that the stereo system sounds real good. Zero rattles with the subwoofer which was something I always had with this same sound system in conquests (including this same car prior to the restoration). I don't regret doing all of this but not sure I'd jump into similar project on another car in the future. Thus, I fully agree with the route you are going.
  4. I'm glad to hear that!
  5. It should work for either. I also have a downpipe that was given to me with my driver quest, that I believe to be a TEP but can't confirm. It has the chamfer seat which allows mating to the factory exhaust (which is how I have it installed) but it has a two bolt flange which should work fine with a standard 2.25" 2 bolt exhaust gasket. I think you should be OK.
  6. I view this differently and would actually consider it if it were more local to me. Although, I'm partial because my first car was an 84 starion ES. It's hard to see if it has a lot of rust though. I assume it does being that it sat in a fiel, but who knows. Although, I see it only comes with a bill of sale. I was always told that getting a new Pennsylvania title is practically impossible. It's amazing how different that process is depending on the state you are in. I know that PA junkyards typically give you a salvage title when purchasing a car like this.
  7. Parts cost and availability have been changing so rapidly over the past few years, I'm not sure I could provide any reasonable estimates anymore. I will say that the most beneficial modification that I have experienced in over 30 years of driving these cars is an MPI conversion. It is, by far, the most noticeable performance improvement, enhanced tuneability, and increased the reliability of the car. Although it is the most expensive modification I've performed and does require a bit of fabrication, even after you source a manifold.
  8. Very interesting, specifically the mustang 3.8L. I had a few friends over the years who had 6 cyl mustangs and always had the vision to create a super fast v6. None of them actually retained the car, either updated to a v8 car or got out of the hobby by buying some boring SUV or something. Anyways, that looks incredible! And I love the 94 mustangs! I have a large dealer poster of the 94 mustang hanging in my garage. My father was a service mechanic at a ford dealer at the time and got me that poster that was on the sales floor for the 94 model year. I also had the opportunity to drive a 93 cobra and a new 94 gt, both of which were on the sales floor at the time, when I was only 16 years old..thanks to him working there. As to the mustang, good eye! But it is actually a 68 fastback 390GT/4 sp car, red on red. That car was and is my true dream car. Unfortunately, I've been working on this stupid black car for the past 2 years or so and ignoring the stang and my other 'good' conquest, for that matter. I'd love to hear about your 67 sometime. BTW, I'm originally from the Lehigh Valley. That dealer I mentioned was Bethlehem Ford. I'm hoping to get that way this summer. Techboy and I keep saying we will meet up but two summers have gone by and it hasn't happened, well at least with our cars. Need to plan on something this year and meet up with the lehigh valley CQ owners.
  9. I have the pictures but haven't had the desire to re-create the thread. I'm not sure I could even remember the write-up portions of what was lost from 2014 to current. If there is anything specific you would like to see, let me know and I can see what I can do.
  10. Snapped a few pictures this morning. This is with everything wet sanded with 400grit. Needs some filler touch-ups, then spot prime (maybe full re-prime) with epoxy/re-wet sand. It's getting close.
  11. Felt like posting something generic this early monday morning as I dread starting my workweek. What are your winter projects this year? For me, I've been back working on the body of my 88 driver cq. I started the body work back in 2021 with some minor rust repair on the rear quarters behind the wheels. This was a very rust free car but it appears that the hatch took on water at one time and rotted out just these lower spots behind the wheel wells. There is no other rust on this car, not even the passenger frame rail. I had detailed photos on here of my repair, which included custom shaping new steel from flat sheet metal, but they were wiped out with the server crash. I had the weld repairs complete and sprayed the panels with a coat of epoxy primer in preparation for body filler to smooth everything out when my truck blew an engine at only 80k. I had to quickly toss this car on the road while I assessed the truck. Two years have gone by I noticed some very small rust forming on a few locations where I did the weld repairs, particularly where there were a few small pin holes in the welds. I didn't want to drive this car another winter and let this propagate, so I decided to pull it into the garage and move further on the body. I mitigated the little bit of the rust via sanding and rust converting and jumped into the filler work. My focus has been on both quarters, the drivers door, a good portion of the passenger fender, both bumpers, and the front spoiler. Last week, I applied two thick coats of epoxy and wet sanded smooth. I have a few areas to touch up with additional filler. After, I'll spot prime the touched up areas, wet sand, and hopefully I'll be ready for BC/CC. I haven't taken too many photos of this process but here are a few. Drivers quarter work. Applied filler over the rust repairs and the door dings (this car is littered with door dings for being stuck and in garages motionless for over 20 years). That door was sanded by a prior owner many years back, it wasn't even touched by me at this point. After my filler repairs to the quarter and door, two thick coats of black epoxy and guide coat in prep for wet sanding. I'm painting the full quarter (which will be up to the roof line although I only primed to the bottom of the C pillar for now) and the full door and rocker panel cover. The little pieces of tape on the panels were small dings I missed during filler that I noticed right away when I painted the primer. I've since found a few more attention areas post block wet-sanding. Passenger quarter and fender. The quarter had the same repair as the opposite (filler over the rust repair and amending door dings). The fender was lightly hit at some time that required a bit of reshaping and filler work. I'll be blending in the paint on this panel, we will see how it goes. Black is pretty forgiving when it comes to that being that it doesn't have any metallic flake in it. I didn't snap any photos of the bumpers/spoiler. The back bumper was scratched bad from stuff being piled against it in garages for years as well as the original paint chipping off of it. The front spoiler appeared that it was rattle canned black without scuffing the paint and was chipping bad, showing the white paint underneath. The front bumper wasn't that bad besides faded but I'm spraying it while I'm here. I'd really love to spray the entire car but just these panels alone have been so time consuming. I've already been at it since late October. As mentioned earlier, the car it littered with door dings, they appear on every metal panel of the car! You can see them on the passenger door in the photos above. It is so time consuming to do the filler work on these, especially on the body lines of the door. Also, I have to get this car back on the road soon. My oldest son drives it often and is the back-up for his 30 year old car that also needs some mechanical work. Plus, my younger son will be getting his permit soon and he will be learning on this car. These are other reasons why I don't want to invest too much time on this car, with two teenagers driving it regularly. Thus, I plan to paint these panels, wet sand the entire car with 3000 grit and cut/buff it. I think it will look pretty good besides the door dings. I can always come back later for the remaining panels. I also have been wanting to learn PDR. I think that passenger door is a great candidate to learn.
  12. I sandblasted the entire undercarriage. For the factory sound-deadener on the underside, I had to grind it off with a 3M nylon wheel on an angle grinder. Everything was done myself in my own garage or driveway using inexpensive tools (which added time and frustration). For the interior sound-deadening, I had to chip it off with a mallet and chisel. For the interior, I didn't take it to bare metal but I cleaned and scuffed everything with a red scotchbrite and then applied two thick coats of epoxy primer. Wet sanded the primer and applied base coat/clear coat. Yes, the entire car, inside and out, is in bc/cc. I didn't want any of the original color, white, visible after the restoration...even if it was well hidden such as on the inside firewall. Was it worth it? I don't know. I had to at least get the sound deadener off from near the rockers and frame rails due to rust repair. But I wanted to fix up this car to the best of my ability. It was a great learning experience that spanned almost a 20 year time period. In all, I'm happy with it but there are some things I'd do differently if I turned back the clock. Ok, that was a big ramble.
  13. I see a lot of need for this just judging by the posts lately on FB (although I just lurk on there intermittently). When the tanks rot, so do these and they aren't easy to find anymore. I saw recently another member found a sender that worked from another car, forgot which, but he was still haven't an issue with it not turning off the low fuel light on the dash.
  14. I've sound-deadened the entire inside of my car. In honestly, it isn't really any quieter than a stock one but I did remove all of the factory sound deadening during the restoration. Although the stereo system sounds great! I'm happy but question if it was really worth it. I had a lot of time invested and it does make things harder to install like under-dash components, door panels, etc. I have this all documented in a thread in the FAQ forum.
  15. Didn't I buy a rust free rear bumper support from your years back? I think that is the one that is on my blue conquest now. Do you ever see phishfud? He bought a yellow one a year or so back, assuming he still has it. I kinda lost touch from anyone else in the Pittsburgh area, being that I've been away for 9 years (but only a few hours). But my advice is to start out high if you aren't in an urgent need to sell, you could always lower it. I seen to remember this car being in good shape, no rust, etc. kev
  16. Sorry to see that you are selling it. I know that there aren't pictures to properly assess but I will say that your price is very low in the current market. These cars jumped in cost over the past 2-3 years. You may be able to get double what you are asking for. Don't want to ruin someone's great deal. I know that I'd buy this thing for $3K if I didn't have two other starquests already. But I'd hate to see a long time prominent member getting screwed over.
  17. I love my ground control coilovers with KYB struts (not sure these are available anymore though). The ST springs is a known issue for over 20 years. I have addeco sway bars and they have been working well. I'll have to look up my spring rates and lengths on the GC coilovers but I went pretty soft and am thankful for it. The ride is really good. edit: Eibach 7" 350 front and 8" 250 rear with the GC coilovers. My only complaint is that they need the rubber bands to prevent clanging on the strut...I can explain how I installed them. I can upload a photo of the stance, if you are interested.
  18. I tried to edit it but no luck. I could only switch it from a default template to what it is now. It won't let me edit the text or anything. edit: Oops, well I guess I did do something because it is gone.
  19. I definitely will keep this in mind. Thanks for posting it!
  20. Wow, that was one detailed write-up! The first thing I would do is focus on that BOV. I have a feeling it is opening when it shouldn't and causing unmetered air to enter the engine and creating your stalling issue. I'm not sure your BOV type, but remove it, if possible, or unhook it and 100% verify it cannot open in any situation. Then try it out for a bit to see if it resolves the stalling issue and really overall drivability. I really have a hunch that this the problem. I've also had issues with the third rear port not being sufficient enough for proper BOV operation. I typically tap into the brake booster port or connect to the intake port in the 3/4 runner that supports the transmission on auto cars (there is a plug there on manual cars). I really only use the 3rd vacuum port for the boost gauge. While you are focusing on the BOV, take the time to check all of your intake hoses/clamps/etc. to make sure you are not letting in unmetered air. Just the slightest leak past the MAS will result in major drivability issues on these cars. I am a bit concerned about how long it was overheating. Unfortunately, our heads don't handle much of an overheating event. It may be prudent to do a compression test to verify you don't have any cracks (focus on cylinders 2 and 3). Although, this wouldn't cause the stalling issue. edit: I updated your post count to 50 to alleviate any issues you may have posting in the forums on here. Back when this site was very active, we had posting restrictions to new members, which sometimes continues to cause issues. kev
  21. It's an 84...sequential injectors...no green one. But, it could still be a clogged injector. Any leaks in the intake system (between turbo and injectors). On 84s, it is common that the o-rings on the turbo to OVCP leak bad. That will cause unmetered air to enter the system and drastically lean out the car. It's air/fuel related. Start simple with cleaning your injectors and making sure they are spraying and check to make sure you aren't pulling in any air after the MAS. Once you know those items are good, move forward with harder items.
  22. I don't think I could do it with my car. 20 years it took to restore it and I've owned it for almost 28 years. Yes, I agree, that I enjoyed building it more than driving it..especially being that I have so much work and money into it that I'm always afraid it is going to break, or I mess something up...but I don't think I could sell it. I know I'd always regret if I let it go. I'd rather pass it on to one of my kids one day. I'd love the cash to build my 68 mustang, which I have owned since 2009 and basically sits as a shell untouched in my garage, but I'll slowly build that one up too as time and money permits just as I did with the cq. I still kick myself for selling my first car, 84 starion, back in 1995. That's the car I'd have all restored now if I wouldn't have been so drawn to a wide-body in my teens (and not enough resources to keep the 84 too). But I do understand the drive to own other cars. There are several I'd love to own. I always wanted a foxbody mustang, for some reason, but now the prices are going high like our cars...and I'd actually want it bone stock. Also, really would like a british roadster, something modest and simple like a spitfire or MGB would be more than sufficient. I no longer have the draw to 'fast' cars like I use to. I find that the more I age, the more I don't care about that. I drive my mpi cq like a grandpa, which is the fastest car I own or ever owned. I even traded in my daily driver ram 1500 with a 390hp hemi for a jeep gladiator 3.6l 6speed manual that struggles to get out of its own way...and I love driving it more than I ever did the ram. Well, I'm hoping you have a change in heart and keep it because you have always been such a prominent member of the community but fully understand the reasoning for letting her go. kev
  23. Thank you for posting this! It is very informative. Let us know if you have luck figuring out why the light is staying on (probably will have to make a new thread due to restrictions in the FAQ forum but we can merge it into this one later on). But regardless, this is great news for the community on a replacement of an obsolete part.
  24. I saw on FB that you are considering selling the car. How come?
  25. BTW: These just came back in stock on SPA's site. I jumped on it and ordered one. Last time I hesitated, and they sold out quick. edit: added link Dodge Conquest / Mitsubishi Starion Fuel Pressure Regulator FPR – SPA TURBO USA Received in less than 24 hours! I also ordered a pressure gauge and fitting from amazon. I'm still waiting on the amazon items but the SPA part is here...impressive. Kev
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