admin_JAinsworth

Here is a write-up from Mike_C: . The O/D is controlled by a relay; the relay has to be ON to allow O/D. The relay is turned ON by a combination of 2 things: * O/D switch on the shift lever has to be in O/D enable/on position * Temp sensor switch in engine coolant has to "see" some warmth in the coolant; O/D is disabled until the engine is warmed up a bit. So what causes the problems? Typically a combination of two things: 1: Temp sensor going bad - it's supposed to be an ON/OFF switch but when it ages it builds up resistance in the ON position. That starves the relay of working voltage. 2: poor wiring/connectors/fusible links in the IGN circuit. The IGN circuit powers EVERYTHING turned on/off by the ignition key. Bad connections rob voltage in this circuit... This circuit feeds your dash guages, the turn signals, and the O/D relay among other things. Ever notice how your voltmeter "dances" in sync with the high-amperage turn signals? You're seeing the effects of long, old wires, bad connections, etc. To fix: 1: disconnect the battery for safety, key OUT of the ignition 2: In the fusible link box (those wire loops between the battery and ignition coil) remove the links one by one. Clean the contacts on the box and on the link. Test each link with an ohmmeter; if they show more than a couple tenths of an ohm resistance replace that link with a dealer part. They're not expensive and will cure LOTS of problems. 3: Follow the wires to/from the fusible link box to some connectors in that area. Undo them one by one and clean them as well. Auto parts stores sell a spray electrical parts cleaner that works well. Don't use spray carb or brake cleaner... they'll disolve the plastic connectors. 4: check or just replace the temp sensor. Look for a temp sensor with a yellow+green wire feeding it. On the 87-later cars it'll be near the thermostat housing. Probably the same for earlier cars but I don't know for sure. To test the sensor: warm up the engine, then shut it down. Disconnect the wire going to the sensor. If the tang is loose or twists around, the sensor has disintegrated and is shot. Otherwise, use an ohmmeter to probe from the threaded nut portion of the sensor to the tang; it should read zero ohms. I'll bet yours reads several ohms. Drain a little coolant out of the system before removing the sensor! As a short-term workaround, you can unplug the sensor connector and just ground the wire. That'll enable O/D at all times - warm or cold engine. Use the switch on the shift lever to disable O/D until the engine warms up a bit. mike c.

You need to post price and location. Jimmy

This is a write-up by Mike_C Injectors not firing Is the tach moving too - just "having spark" isn't enough. If the tach is wiggling though then the signal wire from the ignition coil to the ECU & tach is working. Without that wire the ECU won't command fuel. It wants to verify ignition is present before it will flow fuel - this is a safety thing in case the car was in a wreck... don't want fuel being sprayed when the fuel lines, injectors, etc. could be busted wide open. To command the injectors, the ECU: * needs to see the signal from the ignition coil "-" post; this is the tach signal I just described. * wants to see pulses from the airflow sensor. The airflow sensor (aka "MAS" or "AFS") is the single most important input to the ECU for the fuel calculations; all of the other engine sensors just add or subtract from the AFS based value. * ECI fusible link must be intact. This powers the fuel pump, injectors, etc. * ECI relay (actually 2 relays in one housing) powers the fuel system and fuel pump. The ECU "holds" the fuel pump side ON as long as the ECU sees those ignition pulses ("engine is still running, go ahead and send power to the fuel pump..."); the ignition key START position also trips this relay to power the pump while you're trying to start. Some simple tests: 1: verify the tachometer wiggles. If not, find out what's wrong with the ignition system or your wiring. The wire from the coil "-" post to the tach and ECU is a skinny coax cable (skinny cable TV wire: a wire inside a braided shield, then encased in rubber) and it's possible for the inner conductor to short out to the shield if the wire is pinched, crushed, or bent tightly. Often it gets shorted right at the ECU connector. There are TWO of these shielded coax wires at the ECU - one is for the ignition, one is for the oxygen sensor. If you hook up an air/fuel guage to the wrong one you could screw things up. 2: Look for basic power to the injector while cranking: using a voltmeter red/positive lead probe either injector wire on the primary injector (the one closer to the fender on 87-later cars, or just pick either injector on earlier cars) and ground the voltmeter's black/negative lead. Now try starting... you should see 10 to 12 volts. No? Try the other post on that injector. Still no 12 volts? Then your ECI fusible link is shot, the ECI relay isn't ON, wiring is bad, or the ballast resistor is shot. The ballast is the silver prism-shaped thing bolted to the bulkhead between the air filter and passenger side headlight. +12volts goes in one wire, the resistor is actually two resistors that split this +12volt line... each resistor feeds one injector. Bad resistor = no power to injector. 3: Hook a noid light to the primary injector - the one closer to the driver side fender. It should pulse/blink if the ECU is completing the ground to fire the injector. mike c.

I adjusted your ranking. You should be able to post in VM forum now. Jimmy

Save the image to your desktop and drag to post. Jimmy

Your old account is still here. I can combine the two if you want me to. Welcome back. Jimmy

It is owned by Bob Price aka Ryddler and always has been. Jimmy

With this version of the site you can drag and drop pictures without hosting them anywhere. I drag them from my desktop. Jimmy

I sent Ryddler a message and asked him to update the home screen. Jimmy

I'd run it by Ryddler before changing it. Hit Bob up and I'm sure he will be willling to do it. Jimmy

Randy, You can just drag your pictures over. Jimmy

Freebird it is great to hear what you've done to his car. Jimmy

Moved. Jimmy

Caliber308 aka Bill Courtney has passed away and his wife, Gwen, is selling his car. Asking price is $10,000 which in my opinion is a great price. You can contact her at 406-696-9218 if you have any questions. Car is located in Arizona. Jimmy

Cal308 passed away in October 2022 in his sleep. He was very knowledgeable about Starquests and will be missed. May he Rest in Peace. His wife, Gwen, wants to sell his car. I posted it up in the Cars For Sale Forum. Jimmy

You will always get the O2 code until the engine warms up. Jimmy

I would guess they are non-turbo engines. Jimmy

Mark was one of the OGs and contributed much to our community over the years. He was the best at polishing rims and selflessly shared this knowledge willing and without hesitation. May he Rest In Peace. My prayers are with his family. Jimmy

I'll hit Ryddler up and see if this can be done. Jimmy

I updated your account so you can post on all forums. Jimmy

Over time the TPS will develop a "flat spot" and no amount of adjusting will help. It sounds like yours has done this. It is hard to find a new OEM TPS but MKS motorsport offers an alternative that will work. https://mksmotorsport.com/?s=tps&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1 Jimmy

Are you bringing this beast to Pigeon Forge this year? I'd love to see it in person. Jimmy

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge you can use to check the fuel pressure with? Idle should be around 38 psi iirc and increase one pound per pound of boost. When you pinched the line the pressure should surge and increase significantly. On the CTS, does it have the original connector or has it been replace with two individual ones? The original is fool proof and can only be connected one way. If it has been replaced with two separate connectors, hooking them up on the opposite prongs will cause it to not work properly. Jimmy