Ryan S

Hmm, ok. I’ll probably end up going with that NGR BOV as you can utilize it to recirculate, and it’s leak free. thanks!

Yeah I know how they work lol, was yours vented only to atmosphere? Or was it split. Cause I would go that route but I’ve read that some people have drivability issues? thanks for your response!

Yeah I know lol, I mean for now it’ll be pretty stock as I just don’t wanna dive into that rabbit whole. I would like to figure out a BOV setup but right now I think I’ll just make a plate until I figure out what kind of BOV to go with. thanks for your replies!

Sorry I haven’t replied yet, I was also doing a bit of research about how they work and now I have a clearer understanding. i was looking into some TurboSmart ones as some are a 50/50 split which is what I’d rather have. If I’m running a BOV I’m gonna want it to make some noise instead of being pretty silent. But $500 is dang steep for a BOV lol. I’m still debating what I want to do. thanks for your replies though! also does anyone else have any suggestions instead of just tux?

That makes more sense! Running rich would only happen on decel as that’s when the ECU doesn’t know the air is gone right? so if I bought the NGR BOV would I just route a hose from the side the air escapes to the hose after the MAF? Or how would I route a BOV to act as a BPV? also what BPV are you running? honestly I don’t care too much about spool, as it’s basically all stock and pretty slow lol. I’m not really gonna race many people. For me it’s more of a experience to drive a Starquest rather than racing it.

Hello all, I know there’s been a couple debates on whether to run a BOV or not. I need more of a strait forward answer for my setup. overall I’m pretty stock. I have a down pipe, some holes in my air canister, and that’s pretty much it. I might turn up the boost to around 8 or 9 just to have a little more fun. recently I bought a CxRacing oversized IC, and a IC piping kit from MotoCam360 which is where my question begins. the cross over pipe has a 2 bolt flange for a Type-S or similar BOV. So what do you guys recommend I do/buy? I know that BOVs that vent only to atmosphere aren’t really that suitable for MAF cars, but I read on one forum that many people deal with the side effects. What are the side effects exactly? Just rough idle and running rich on decel? NGR has a nice BOV that has the same flange and it’s a newly designed leak free system, but I don’t think you can route it as a “hybrid” BOV. or do I just make a block off plate and skip the BOV? I’m not really scared about compressor surge, I know KEN said he’s been running without a BOV for a while and hasn’t snapped any shafts for damaged anything, and I like the sound more but I know running BOVs are beneficial in some way. also another question since I’m a noob when coming to turbo cars as this is my first one. Can I just run a manual boost controller in-line of the line that runs from the waste-gate to the cross over pipe, or do I also have to adjust the waste-gate? I’m not really sure how they function. Any suggestions would be amazing, thank you!

Update - took her for a drive after I got home from work and she runs fabulous. It never did the weird idle fluctuations, also the pump wasn’t screaming for help during normal driving. But once I did a couple pulls it started to make some noise but that’s probably normal. In the future I would like to do Mikie’s in tank system. Now I can take her to school and show off a little😉 and drive it before snow hits… anyway thanks again!

Ok, thats what I’ll probably get once they are back in stock at MKS. Just to be sure i always have pressure lol. I just have a Carter OE from Rock Auto. thats what I figured also as it only happened once I was doing some pretty hard pulls. I don’t remember what AFR’s looked like when it was acting up, under load AFR’s look great so that’s why I was hesitant about the pump being the culprit. I’m gonna double check all vacuum lines to see if one popped off and that’s why it idles weird at times. I’ll probably turn that screw in a hair to about 1k rpm’s too, peace of mind to have a little better oil pressure at idle. It depends what I do lol. If I let it sit and the idle comes back to normal it does great, when the idle dips and you quickly go again it also does great. And it doesn’t really run poorly it just idles very low at times. That’s why I was thinking something to do with the ISC like maybe it isn’t making good contact with the lever, or it’s sticking. whats weird is it only happened after the pump starting making noise after 30mins. Before that It did absolutely fantastic. I’m gonna take her for a spin tonight and see if the pump still makes noise and see what happens. thanks!

Update - So after getting psu’s vacuum advance, the car runs absolutely fantastic. It pulls hard all the way to 6k rpm’s! I do have some new problems though… I was coming to a stop and all of sudden my fuel pump was wining pretty bad, then came the side effects. It barely idles now, but still does great under load so I’m not sure what’s up. Maybe my ISC is sticking cause after sitting for a bit it’ll slowly creep back up to ~850rpms. I got gas, and after restarting it the wine went away and idled o.k, but then I did another pull and it came back and started to idle bad again lol. does anyone run Mikie’s intank fuel pump setup? Or does everyone run the factory location? If so what pump are you guys running? thank you guys for your help! I really appreciate it. Also thank you Psu_Crash for getting me back on the road!

Yeah, my vacuum adv. does bleed off when you apply vacuum. it does look to be factory, so I bet she’s ready to retire. You gotta pay to play, which isn’t a big deal to me. I know parts for these cars are becoming nonexistent so I’ll do whatever to keep mine on the road. thanks!

Sounds good, take your time! I have a mechanical gauge already, just don’t have a way to see what it’s doing under load. I’ll try to tape my phone in there when I get the chance to fiddle with it again. as for the coolant temp sensor, it is also new. But I’ve heard that these aftermarket ones aren’t the best for these cars. Isn’t there a way to put a 200ohm resister in there to tell the ECU it’s “fully” warmed up? second that, I’m pretty sure it works fine. At cold start it’s around 11-12 afr but once it warms up it idles around 14.5 afr. So that should actually work. If I remember correctly even when you slowly roll into it, it still goes pig rich. It’s just slower lol. Like when I roll into it, it’ll be around 13 afr but when I slowly get into it more it tanks to 10 afr i have not verified the timing. I’ve been wanting to do that but just don’t have the time, nor the real knowledge how to do it. I have the FSM so hopefully it’ll help me out. thanks for your response!

Ok sounds good, let me know! and yeah I don’t know what my problem is lol. I’ve tried a different MAF, MAP/boost solenoid, IAT sensor. I don’t know what else could cause rich conditions under hard acceleration. also these fpr’s are vacuum referenced right? Like it adds fuel pressure as the vacuum goes up? If so do you think I could cap off the regulator and see what happens? Cause if it’s getting wayyy too much fuel under load I wonder if the regulator isn’t regulating it correctly. It’s an adj. one from Mikie. I also thought about a boost leak, but the car runs and drives great. It’s just when I wanna get on it, it bucks. But if I creep up on boost it’ll see 7psi perfectly in 4th. The other gears it don’t make 7psi, but I know those gauges are not very trustworthy. any other thoughts? Let me know! thanks!

Yes if I drive like a grandpa it does great. Lol. as for the vacuum advance, it does indeed bleed off. It bleeds slowly but i suppose that would still be a problem. I swear I tested that a while ago, and it held vacuum perfectly. Guess she finally went bad. do you know where I could get one by chance? thanks for your reply!

Hello, I know there are many forums related to starquest’s stumbling/bucking past ~3500rpms but none seem to help me out. I recently got my car to run and drive fantastic although I can’t get into boost without it stumbling/sounding like rolling anti-lag. In neutral it’ll rev perfectly without any hesitation, I’ve done a couple pulls while watching my wideband and it tanks to 10afr but I know it’s going lower. So, does anyone know why it’s going pig rich when doing a pull? And it seems to only do it when I get to around 3500rpms. I’ve tried multiple different things, I’ve replaced multiple things but maybe I’m missing something that can cause my issue? I have 40psi while idling, but unfortunately don’t know what it’s doing under boost. I’ll try to rig up a camera to watch it while accelerating. Any help would definitely be appreciated! Thanks!

yeah that is true, when you move the speaker by hand it has quite a bit of resistance and it makes horrible noises so that’s why I thought it was the speaker. yeah everything works in the rear even the other speaker. But the antenna, don’t know what that’s about, never did work when I bought it. thanks for the reply!