jeffball610

I've had issues with my rear hatch not opening with the lever by the driver's seat. It opens fine when I crawl into the back and move the locking mechanism. I don't believe my key works at all, as it doesn't seem to turn in the barrell. I've made sure there were no obstructions like the rear carpet. I have adjusted the action rods, and then back again because they didn't need adjusting. I adjusted the locking mechinism up and down as well. I even adjusted the hinges. The hinges are a pain to adjust and I would recommend anyone doing this to also remove the struts when doing this to get proper alignment. With the struts in place, I could not provide enough force forward and tighten the hinges at the same time. I adjusted both the internal mounts as well as those on the glass. I did manage to get the hatch to line up better with the rear spoiler area, but it did not help with the opening lever. Is there something I'm missing? The lever does not seem to actuate the lock far enough. Is there another adjustment? Is there a common issue with these not opening?

Thank you so much for the info and pics. I ordered parts from Steve at StarQuest Parts. He forgot to include the upper belt clip on the door, but I think I have the rest. I didn't realize the upper trim and the body were different on each car. I will make that adjustment to the metal. My door cards have the cutout already there for the seat belt passthrough. It's quite a bit larger than the clip, so I'll just take my time just as you suggested. I think the biggest issue will be the A pillar trim. I'll see if I can make a mount or adjust things enough to make it presentable. The rear hatch seems to be that it's not aligning with the body. I just happened to notice this as I was leaving this morning looking at the back of the car. It has to be out at least a 1/4" and likely further. I'll see if I can adjust that and see what happens. I've ordered from MKS before and I'll put in an order for clips. I'm not trying to make a concourse car here, but having something comfortable to ride in without squeeks and rattles is always more desirable. If I make any discoveries or adjustments, I'll try to post them here. If someone has the ability to make a sticky of this install, that might be beneficial to others. Especially as the auto belts start to die, this might become more desirable or common to switch them out. Mine is purely for practical reasons with the elimination of the lower belt. And the auto belts suck anyway 🤪

I recently purchased some manual seat belts from Steve at StarquestParts.net and I'm looking for tips on this and some other minor install parts. I know I'm doing something wrong, but I can't seem to figure it out. Steve said he will get back to me with some pics on how to properly install these parts, but I assume some others would have some tips. The A-pillars don't quite fit right. There are some "nubs" on the manual pillars that don't seem to corrilate with anything else. The headliner is specific to the belts, but doesn't seem to be much of an issue. I'm keeping my auto belt headliner and the standard trim is holding it up. But the manual trim doesn't seem to fit at all. It's too long from what I can tell. Next up are the door cards and how the belt passes through. The card itself has a cutout already, but it's far too large for the trim. I know you have to account for the leather and padding, but it still seems too large. Is there a template or a guide on how it needs to be cut. Also, the belt retractor needs two additional screw holes. The door has square holes for what I assume are plastic threaded fittings, but where can I source the correct ones? One a similar note, some of the plastic rivets to hold the door card to the door itself need replacing. Do we have a good source for those as well? I'm also looking for the clips that attach the upper leather portion of the headliner near the hatch. Mine is missing two and I'd like to get the correct ones. The last thing for now (until I get further into things) is getting the rear hatch to open correctly. The lever doesn't activate the latch enough to open. I have to crawl into the car and manually move the lever arm. I've tried adjusting the rods, but it doesn't seem to help. Any advice, pics, resources, links, literally anything would be of great help. This is my first Starquest, so I'm still learning about all of the idiosyncrasies. I can post pics if something isn't clear. I might do a how-to for the driver's door once I get this figured out if it would help anyone else. (unless one already exists)

I've been running a Bill's 4G63 to Toyota R154 for over 20k miles in my Datsun 510. I beat the hell out of this thing with many autocross events and some road courses as well. Bill is a great guy and makes awesome stuff. He knows what he's doing. He's doing some Honda stuff now as well. He does make a T56 kit, but there are other options as well. A competitor is making a CD009 kit, but Bill says it won't work. I trust him.

I got everything welded up and installed this weekend. Seems to function normally. However, I still need to fix the idle and the throttle stop. The throttle sticks open just a bit causing high idle and obviously won't let the BOV do its woosh thing as easily. I did T into the brake booster line just to get the largest source possible as suggested. What is the facotry source below the throttle body for? It goes to the stock tube over the valve cover, almost as if it was meant for a BOV.

I've been searching through posts to try and find decent info. Being these forums are so old, it's tough to find things. I've decided to install an upper intercooler pipe and BOV to extend the life of my components until I get my engine swap further along. I found one thread which describes a BOV (I already knew that info), and another that describes where the stock vacuum lines go. However, I'm not finding info on how to hook up the vacuum port on the BOV. I know it needs to come after the throttle body plate, but which one is best? After I get that installed, I know I'll need to reset my idle (it sucks now anyway) and there was a decent thread on that.

I finally got some seats to get all of this moving forward. They're just cheap Amazon/eBay seats with a low seating position. I mounted them as low as possible and eliminated the seatbelt mechanism to get them back and low. I used one of those bolt holes to replace the frame rail seat rail mounting bracket. It's not as low as I'd like, but it's low enough to drive. With this position, I was able to take the ETACS out of the mounting case and slid it under the front of the seat. There's just enough room for that, so I don't need to get rid of the unit or relocate it. I'll try to take some pics when I remove the bracket to paint it. It's a huge pain to install due to the side mounting bolts and lack of space, but it fits and I fit 🙂

I still haven't pulled the car out of the garage due to vairous fluid leaks. The rebuild seems to be successful, but it does have an issue of foaming over after I shut down. I'm sure it just needs to be "bled", but the foaming is rediculous. As soon as this last oil leak is fixed, it's time for a road test to see what else is wrong. The front brakes drag (likely due to corrosion) and who knows what else needs to be fixed. The LS should be here this weekend, and I have a CD009 sitting patiently in the corner 🙂

Yep. I installed the gear backward. It went on so smoothly the other direction and was tight in the correct direction. I got it installed. I'll fire the car up tomorrow to see if it leaks. I'm sure it will. This is just a stop gap for the whole car. I just want it up and running so I can find all of the "issues" before I do an engine swap. I know people love the G54B, but it has some issues and parts are difficult to find due to age and low production numbers. I'll do what I can with what I have, and then onto something "better".

The leak was quite severe. I think the pump shaft has a groove and it will likely leak again. The pump wheel only goes on one direction that I know of. Maybe I put it on backwards. I'll double check.

I paid $500 for my CD009 and I can pick up an iron block LS for another $1500. Of course I need an adapter, motor mounts, drivesahft, etc., but it's infinitely tunable on the stock ECU, makes 400hp, it's realiable, modern, and sounds cool. I love my 4G63 in my Datsun, so my turbo needs are met. I want a V8 and this is a cheap and easy way to make it happen. To each their own. This is the path I choose to walk. You can walk your path and we're both happy 🙂

Thanks for the info on the ETACS and the wiring. I'm thinking I'll just relocate it to the center console with some wiring extensions for now. As far as the swap goes, it took me 12 years to get my Datsun on the road. I did all the work myself and I'm dedicated. I love the look of this chassis, so it's going to happen barring any major life issues. I just got the G54B setup back in after sorting some issues the previous owner(s) left for me. The starter bolts weren't even tightened. I'll see how it works and I'll sort out any chassis issues there might be. I'm sure it's a great engine, but tuning is a nightmare. Financially it just isn't worth it. The cost of a standalone and some fuel upgrades and you're at nearly the cost of an LS shortblock. I've arleady procured a CD009 transmission and I'm nearly there on a good LS setup as well. The G54B will have a good home in a Mighty Max for a friend, so it won't go to waste. I love my turbos, but the Starion screams V8 rumble to me.

So I bought a Gates rebuid/seal kit and rebuilt the power steering pump. It had a massive leak from the front seal and i had to fix what was there. Unfortuantely, the pump won't turn. I reassembled the unit, but if I torque the rear housing bolts at all, the shaft won't spin. I assume I need to push the shaft forward or something, but I'm not sure what I'm missing. Do I just need to wack the shaf forward? Did I potentially assemble something wrong? It's a pretty simple unit, so I'm not sure what I did wrong. Any thoughts?

We'll see where I go with a build thread. I'm planning an LS swap (I hear hearts breaking) once I sort the car out. I typically just work and don't post much. Evidence of this can be found on my 4G63 Datsun 510 build on Ratsun.net and The510Realm.com. As far as "tall guy mods", my current plan is to use a fixed back bucket seat mounted as low and far back as possible. I did this in my 350Z a few years ago. It was a Corbeau FX1 wide. I had to shave the lower mounting holes off to lower it another 3/4". Prices have gone up, so I'm looking for cheaper alternatives that are still "wide". I'm not a wide guy, but I'm also not the typical 150lb "race driver" they build seats for. To mount a seat as low as possible, I would need to move or remove the ETACS control unit and the seatbelt mechanism in the floor. I might be able to swap in something from another car that mounts on the center console area so I can still be safe in the car. I do plan to drive the hell out of it 🙂

Thank you. I was thinking it was more of an anti-theft device that has security checks to make the car operate and move. I'd like to keep it for the functions it has. I'll try to eliminate it and see what happens though. It will be a bit of time before I do this. I'm still fixing issues from a previous owner, so the engine is coming out. I'll report back any findings I have as soon as I can.