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Everything posted by admin_JAinsworth

  1. Check your CTS (coolant temperature sensor). A bad one can cause similar issues. The procedures are in the FSM. Jimmy
  2. It's great to hear from you! Looks like life is treating you well. We lost a lot of valuable info. with the crash of SQC but it is what it is. Live and learn. Jimmy
  3. Dad aka Engine Machine Service is no longer in business. Dad (Randy Gains) may start selling parts again but hood cables are NLA. Some people are using a bicycle cable to replace the hood release cable but I'm not sure of the length required. Jimmy
  4. Not sure which bolt you are having trouble with but one of the bolts has a nut on the backside. You may want to check that first. Jimmy
  5. More from MikeC: Having the voltage at 16+ is a sure sign of a fried regulator inside the alternator and/or solder blobs breaking off and rattling around inside it. Either way it needs to come out and be professionally rebuilt or replaced. Replace the charging fusible link before installing the new one. If you want to double-check the wiring, use a small 12volt turn signal light bulb in place of the link. Install the alternator, hook the bulb in, connect the battery, and check. If the bulb is lit at all (even dimly) then there's a problem someplace. Now turn the key ON but don't start. You might see a faint glow. A bright glow is bad news. If your car fails this bulb test, isolate the alternator again (disconnect the battery first!) and re-test. If you still have glows, you've got wiring harness issues between the battery and alternator. If the new alternator passes the bulb test, undo the battery & bulb, install the correct charging fusible link. Re-connect the battery. Before starting, use a voltmeter to test the smaller wires feeding the alt: * +12volts on the white+green wire with the key ON or OFF. * +12volts on the white+yellow wire with the key ON only. It might not be a full 12volts; you should see zero key OFF and +something key ON. If you don't get these voltages, the harness going into the alternator might be bad. Unplug this connector and re-test it directly. Not having these voltages will confuse the regulator (part of the alternator assembly) causing +16volt type of outputs. mike c. Bad Power Draw: If you look at the wiring diagrams, you'll see that the alternator's field coil gets power from a LONG stretch of wiring... and that same wiring feeds the dash voltmeter. Basically, the path is: * start from the battery + post * fat white wire to the fusible link box IGN (ignition) link. Anything that is powered only when the ignition key is in ACC/ON/START is fed through this link... * from the IGN link to the ignition key's "input" post. * from the ignition key's ON post back to the engine bay. And also to the fusebox, to the dash guages, etc. That wire feeds the front fans, alternator field coil, turn signals, etc. I.e. a lot of fairly high-current applications. ANY bad connections/resistance in this wire will cause the symptoms you describe. It's also the cause of the "dancing" voltmeter when the turn signals are working. If you put a real voltmeter on the battery posts you'll see MUCH less voltage variation than the dash guage indicates. Start by disconnecting the battery (key OUT of the ignition) and taking out the fusible links one by one. Inspect them carefully; any signs of melting or burning or discoloration on the insulation means the link cooked at one time (i.e. tried to act like a fuse) and is bad - it must be replaced. Get a new link from the dealer; they're cheap. DO NOT MAKE YOUR OWN WITH REGULAR WIRE - IT MUST BE FUSIBLE LINK WIRE! If the link is okay, clean the contacts on it AND on the box completely. Smear in some dielectric grease (any parts store will have it; it comes in a tiny toothpaste style tube) to help reduce future corrosion. Also undo the connectors from the battery posts and clean them, follow the fat white wires and clean their harness connectors (again using the dielectric grease when you re-connect). With tiny needle-nose pliers you can re-crimp the female ends of the various connectors so they have a tight grip. Unplug the alternator wires and clean/grease them. Then go to the battery "-" post and clean it. Follow the beefy black wire to where it bolts to the bodywork under the battery. Undo that bolt, clean ALL wire ends you'll find there, and the bodywork part. This is the main ground input on the car. Good grounds are critical on any car. Follow the fat black battery wire to the side of the engine block and clean that end too. Under the dash, by the steering column, you'll find the connector for the ignition key harness. Clean up those connections as well. See how much that helps. If your dash voltmeter still drops a ton under load, take the alternator out and have it tested - most auto parts stores will do it for free. Once it's known to be good, put everything back together and run the engine at idle, turn signals ON, a/c cranked to 65 deg to make all the fans run, etc. What is the battery voltage both measured directly at the battery and on the dash guage? If the actual battery voltage is below 12.5 volts; the alternator circuit isn't working well enough. You may have to run new beefy wires from the IGN link output pin to the ignition key to supplement the degraded factory wiring. That wire gets old and developes a fair bit of resistance. mike c.
  6. If you are talking about the filter under the hood, follow the line on the bottom of the filter back towards the fuel tank and you will find a connector approx. 1-2 feet down the line. Take it apart there and take the filter out with the line. Put the filter in a vice and you should be able to loosen the bolt then. Jimmy
  7. I believe "Dad" on this site may carry them. Anthony Vernon on Facebook 3D prints one also. Jimmy
  8. The inline filter near the fuel pump is no longer available. If you still have the old one it may be possible to clean it and re-install it. Some people just eliminate it or replace it with an external inline filter. The in-tank filter can be purchased from www.mksmotorsport.com aka Mikie Sorrell. Mikie goes by 19cTurbo on this site but is more readily found on Facebook. Member "Dad" here may still stock them or can be found on FB as Randy Gains. Jimmy
  9. These are the best pics I have of the front limit switch. Jimmy
  10. DeezNuts aka Daryl is still around. I saw him at the PF meet this year. Jonboy aka Jonathan Burgess on Facebook is around but doesn't post often. Pure_Insanity aka Grant Barnes lives in Lawrenceville and touches base every now and then. Jimmy
  11. GoldStar check now. I adjusted your information. Let me know if you can't post in all forums. Jimmy
  12. You can blow the motor up or turn into a toad
  13. Ryddler is working on a static snapshot from June 2021. Once that is complete we should be able to find the topic on Cams and copy it manually back to the forums. Jimmy
  14. It takes 10 posts to be moved up from Rookie. You should be able to post in all forums after that. Jimmy
  15. Ok guys, here it is, the be-all...end-all vacuum line removal thread, enjoy The list of ports (22 in all) 1. Vacuum Retard Diaphram (directly on top of the distributor) 2. Top Port on the TB, right where the OVCP meets the TB 3. Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (black box on the drivers side of the VC) 4. Thermo Valve (2 ports) 5. EGR (3 ports) 6. SACA Solenoids (5 ports) 7. Main Vacuum source (3 ports) 8. Bottom port, this feeds the vac storage, cruise, and runs to the vac pump in front 9. Vacuum Storage (not pictured), mounted to the side of the shock tower 10. Cruise Control (not pictured), mounted to the front of the shock tower 11. Vacuum pump (not pictured), mounted right beside the drivers headlight 12. Purge Control Valve (2 ports), directly under the aircan Now, depending on what you're wanting to do with your car, your position on the environment, and whether or not you need a smog test to get a state inspection, it's possible to remove some of the vacuum lines and clean up the engine bay a LOT. For a pure race car you'd probably just need 1 stock line (slightly relocated), that'd be a line running from the top of the TB (labeled #2), to the Vacuum Retard Diaphram (labeled #1), this is the only line that is an absolute necessity. However, if you want, for example, your inside head & foot vents to work properly, you'll need to keep the line running from the bottom of the TB (labeled #8 ) going to the Vacuum Storage canister (labeled #9) (+ the single, small vacuum line running from it's nearest "T" into the firewall [not pictured or labeled]). Since this comes up frequently I'll address it here, the vac port you use for a BOV is labeled Main Vacuum Source (#7), you'll use the one closest to the firewall if you're looking at it from the drivers side fender. If you need a smog test to pass a state inspection you'll probably need to keep everything, each vacuum assisted item has its place. If you've removed the catalytic converters you won't be needing the Secondary Air Cleaner Assembly (labeled #3), it supplies fresh air to the catalysts. ------------------------------------------------------------------------
  16. Contact Mikie Sorrell at mksmotorsport.com he may be able to hook you up. Jimmy
  17. It wouldn't be the first time I banned me
  18. I will be looking at the archived files and re-posting significant posts. Jimmy
  19. rcm, that was a test post by me as a user and not a moderator. Good to see you back. Jimmy
  20. A work-around but not a fix is to drill a small hole in the bottom where the water collects. Jimmy
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