Chad

I have mine run as far back as possible near the rear tire to help with exhaust gasses and sound. I also have it pointed away from the car so exhaust wont build under the car at idle, and sound goes away from the car. It's not quiet or civilized in any way, but then it's better than a dump tube. I aslo have a muffler, that helps. It's still loud as heck when I get on the throttle. Not too terrible at idle or cruise, but everyone on the block still hears you coming. The muffler cuts the high pitch tones out. I also have a large turbine (T4 turbo) and tube headder, and non-recirculated WG dump tube, that changes the tone and sound on throttle. The dump tube exits right by the transmission at the lowest point on the car. When it opens, it's very noticable, but the car is in motion so you can't smell it and there are other noises going on at that point. It's set at 20 PSI, so it's closed most of the time anyway.

This was an attempt at something civil sounding yet still fully bad tail functionaly speaking. most of it is made of 20 gage stainless so it's very light. From turbo to tip it's only about 16#'s. This is from about 2006 as I recall. The muffler is a modified burns stainless model. i'ts 3" up to the end of the muffler, then it merges to oval tube that is equivilant to 3-1/2" . The whole thing sits higher than a stock system ground clearence wise. It uses V bands to make it easy to get in and out. The aluminum flange in the fram passage is 4" so there is ample breathign and wiggle room. and i packed the cavity behind it with refactory ceramic (like fiberglass insulation) to protect the wire harness inside the frame rail. http://webpages.charter.net/catsamuel/DCP00785.JPG http://webpages.charter.net/catsamuel/DCP00789.JPG http://webpages.charter.net/catsamuel/DCP00786.JPG

use a stock ford 65 mm TB unless you want top end power only, then use a 70. 75 mm will add no real flow benifit, and ruins the tip-in throttle response and makes idle and off idle (slow cruise) tuning very difficult.

Do a magnet check, if it sticks, it's not stainless, or atleast not a grade you would ever want to use in a headder.

care to elaborate?

hopefully he pays the members here He owes $$ to with the proceeds.

don't use the stock gauge to diagnose anything, it's just a slow responding guess-o-meter. Get a real oil pressure gauge,you'll be surprised at how differently it responds.

350 HP takes a lot more fuel than the stock system will provide, and I don't mean just the fuel pump. Unless you have MPI in that mod list, that turbo will just run you lean and blow your expensive bottom end. Doubling your HP takes a lot of different mods, not just a bigger turbo.

I made the manifold about eight years ago. On mild upgrade clutches, they often use a stock disk with stiffer pressure plates, the symbol on the plate is for Daken, a common manufacturer of OE and aftermarket. if it's an upgrade, it's likely not a very high torque model.

Unless you are in a high tax bracket, you'll get a few hundred for it on taxes, it's value only offsets taxable income, not a one-for-one deal. And that assumes you even make enough to itemize above your standard deduction, which seems unlikely as well. You might end up getting zero for it on your taxes. Now is not the time to be irrational.

Forum rules:

when you measure +12v from? what is your ground for that measurement? sounds like some bad ground may be present. When in doubt, measure resistance between the neg terminal of the battery to your suspected bad ground, should be at or very near zero ohms. Door lights are triggered by a switched ground, the +12v is always present. the switch itself is grounded with a coarse threaded screw that holds the switch to the chassis, that connection can corrode.

if the group here wants to see that info saved, why not just read through the articles and make new how to's based on the origional. It's easy to argue about cut and paste, but there is no copyright nor legal claims to this kind of knowledge. Go through the topics, learn the subject and create your own topic. Almost everything in that SOS can be found in the factory manual, so it's not like he didn't do the same thing. in fact, there are many pictures in the SOS of manual pages, copyright infringement in itself. That which isn't in the manual can easily be found somewhere else, tips and tricks that many mechanics know. There isn't anything in there that isn't known somewhere else, it's just all formatted for the starquest. If every interested party took just one topic and made a new one based on the same information, you could totlay replace the whole damn thing in a few weeks, pictures an all. Personally, I use the manual or search for info here, it has served me well. It worked before the SOS, and will work after the SOS.

remove the cam gear from the cam and let it fall down onto the perch below it, then the head can be lifted off without touching anything below it. If you have the strength, pull the head off with both manifolds attached, way faster that way. It's heavy, but I can pull one in a half hour or less this way. Just remove the catalitic converter from the back of the turbo and push it back, remove the water and oil lines for the turbo and intake, a few accessory pieces, and disconnect electrical connections. then remove the head bolts, pop the cam gear off and lift up. remove the hood if you can, makes the job a lot easier.

It's the person behind the mess, that is the mess, not the subject itself. You know the old saying about "getting mad and leaving the sand box, and taking your toys with you"? this is like that, only he can't take his toys with him, and others are trying to play with those toys (the contents of the SOS), so he runs to mommy and cries (calls a lawyer and threatens to sue). There is no legal basis for suing, but that won't stop him from wasting your time/$$ if he tried. He wants to keep the SOS from you to prove his point (whatever that is). Bringing up this subject every 3-6 months only inflates that ego and stokes that seething fire.