BlueCuda

Sorry I Just saw this. I do not have a ready to go short block, but I have enough pieces to build one for sure. I have 2 short blocks, one assembled, one not. The one that is assembled has a bad crank, the one that is taken apart has a good crank but the block bores are ugly due to rust. I don't know that I would want to mess with shipping all of it. I would let it all go for $200 and that includes whatever I have left in my storage unit that fits a conquest. There is some interior pieces, and a few other odds and ends the guy who bought my car couldn't take.

I said aftermarket but should have probably said generic. I just used a standard 30 amp relay. I wired it to the battery for power and used output of the factory relay to trigger it. The only load on the factory relay is the coil of the added relay. It fixed the problem with the clutch kicking in and out.

No I sold the car and everything he could fit in his wife's car and the conquest went with it. All I have left is a couple of G54B short blocks.

My factory relay worked but it was weak, it had trouble like you mention. I used it to trigger a better aftermarket relay and my problems went away.

I came super close to buying one in Austin and driving it home a few years ago. It ran and drove but it had been in storage for years. I had a plan to change the front tires, the fluids, and drive it home about 8-10 hours. In the end I didn't trust that someone had put a mechanical fan on it because I had never seen one converted like that. Little did I know......

Sold

I had vibrations or wobble in my steering wheel also. I had all new tied rod ends and MKS steering coupler already installed. I got new tires, wobble still there. What took the wobble away was a better idler arm(I had another used one that was much tighter) and new lower control arm bushings. I did both of those at the same time and I think the idler was the likely cause for the wobbly. The LCA bushings were worn but they weren't as bad as I thought they would be. This is probably the easiest car to change LCA bushings on since the ball joint unbolts from the arm.

Getting the AC checked out next week. I went through the torque tube and diff assembly from my parts car with new seals and grease on the coupler. I plan to swap that fresh unit in this weekend. After that stuff is done I might list it on marketplace to get some more traffic.

If the idler arm is loose enough it can cause enough movement to effect the toe a small amount but changing it alone won't put you in a bad spot from an alignment standpoint. I'd plan on a day when you can just change it all at one time and get to the alignment shop. Measure your tie rods before you change them so you can get a "ish" setting good enough to drive it to the alignment shop.

I saw this awhile back also, didn't even think about using it in a starquest that is a great idea for those who need senders. I saw this video on it, it is a video for using this with Holley EFI but it does show how the unit works. Looks like it might be a little bit of a pain to setup but from then on should be just fine.

For Sale 1987 Conquest TSI 5-speed and spare parts(will not separate). I am listing my Conquest for sale. I have had it almost 2 years and have put a little over 2000 miles on it since I got it running. The body has 194K indicated on the odometer, the engine and transmission came from a parts car with 116K on the odometer. The car runs very well, it has been trouble free and has been driven in single digit temps to triple digit temps with no problems. The engine is quiet and smooth. It makes the proper level of boost for a stock 87 conquest. The car is not daily driven but driven once or more times per week. If I did not have a company vehicle it would be my daily driver. The car is all stock apart from a 3” exhaust system with a Dynomax muffler. It has also had the Subaru fan upgrade. Tires have 1800ish miles on them and were new in early 2022. The body is in good shape and the car does not have its original paint. The rear bumper needs to be repainted. There is no radio but I do have the correct stock one for it but have not verified that it works. The Front suspension has been rebuilt with new strut bearings, new inner and outer tie rods, and new lower control arm bushings. The car will come with lots of spare parts, I have spare HVAC unit with heater core and evap core in great shape, spare steering box and steering linkage, lots of spare modules, two G54B short blocks, 2-3 sets or rocker arms, 2 cams, 2 intakes, exhaust manifold, spare transmission, spare diff and torquetube assembly, spare CV shaft, stock head, spare driveshaft, spare radiator, spare intercooler, back seat, instrument cluster, headlight switches, there is also 2 sets of working injectors, one or two ISC motors, tps sensor, and 2 rear calipers. Asking $7000 for car and parts stash. All items are in Tulsa Oklahoma. I can help ship the car but will not ship the parts. I have a truck and enclosed trailer and can deliver the car and parts at a max distance of 4 hours from Tulsa. I have little interest in selling the car without the parts, and will not sell any parts separate. I am only selling to free up space and fund another project. I will continue to drive and improve the car until it sells. At this moment the car is only listed here for now. Email for additional pictures and videos. Clamb12 at gmail

As everyone knows the EV cars have almost zero drivetrain noise. I can't imagine that with an older car, even a starquest is going to have lots of noise that is normally covered up by drivetrain noise. I think it would be miserable to drive without the ICE powerplant. I totally get the need for EVs in certain applications but I just can't imagine converting a classic to an EV.

I did the same as GoldStar.

Your wiper pivots are probably tight and with the extra friction of the dry windshield the motor can't do it. This sounds dumb but...…on my fair weather cars I have figured out the wipers need more exercise. Occasionally when I wash them I will spray the hose on the windshield and let the wipers run full blast for a little while. This keeps the gears moving and keeps the pivots from freezing up. My Barracuda is regularly driven but garage kept and fair weather driven. The wiper pivots actually froze up completely at one point from lack of use. I cleaned the pivots up and got them working well, then ended up driving it into Hurricane Florence in 2018 and relied on the wipers for hours at a time at some points. That is when I started making sure the wipers got used more often on my cars that I try to avoid rain with. The reality is on cars that are seldom driven you need to use all the items when you do drive them. Wipers, lights, hazards, heat and AC etc. Using all this stuff on seldom driven cars helps a ton. Lack of use is worse than daily use.

Turbo Sold

Exhaust manifold sold

It would be nice to know the dimensions on the rotors, they likely are not casting something special. Its likely a part that lines up with a more common application. I have seen this with other aftermarket brake kits. The trouble is finding that application!

I fought the idle surge also, oddly enough it caused me problems beyond idle as well that I never could figure out. But fixing the surge fixed those problems. In my case I had to do the TPS/ISC reset more than once, the first time it got better but wasn't fully better. The 2nd round took care of it and it has been fine ever since, in 100* and 5* it has idled and started perfectly.

On the hoods I like the 83 with the stock front insert and carbon vents. But they all three look really good.

MKS sells one I believe.

I have some extra engine parts I need to shed. Cheapo 16G turbo, it came with my car but I never ran it, the wastegate setup is rigged, spins free, $75+plus shipping $50 with manifold 87 primary and secondary injectors $250(for the pair). I have cleaned these and tested these on my injector test machine. I will test these on my 87 conquest before I make a final sale, those results are pending. I can clean and test injectors, have revived two dead sets so far. PM me to discuss I have more extra G54B stuff just ask. PM me or email at Clamb12 at the gmail for pictures.

Nice work, I have had an issue with mine idling low on occasion and haven't looked into it much yet. It seems to be isolated to driving at night. The ISC will catch it and pull the idle back up but the abacus of a computer in these things is a little slow to do so lol. Before I dig into it much I need to do the normal TPS and ISC reset though.

That's great, does anyone want to by mine for $25K now? Only 194K miles on the odometer lol. Never wrecked, probably raced, but only on Sundays!

I didn't look at your location. Arizona is the best place for heavier oil but still doesn't mean that it is needed.

If you saw the bicycle chain that runs the oil pump on these things you would not want to run 20W50. 20W50 is harder to pump especially when it is colder. I can't see a need unless your engine is just slap wore out and has no oil pressure.