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  1. I looked around, this seems to be a somewhat expensive piece of equipment, $200-$300 and higher. OUCH
  2. So this thing replaces the O2 sensor or is it installed in addition to the O2 sensor?
  3. Thank you guys, I appreciate the feed back. I just love (not) taking off the top hat to verify what injector is where. Wire colors will be a bit of a pain to check, the injector clips were replaced years ago (and dumba**) didn't mark the new clips. The injectors are after market, couldn't tell ya what style they are I just found who ever had compatible injectors (south bay fuel injectors). The first replacement was made using injectors from fuel injectors clinic here in Florida, but they don't carry them anymore. I have no idea what a wideband is (though I have seen the term come up quite a bit)
  4. Here comes another stupid question I'll try to keep the synopsis as short as possible. So here goes, some time ago I had an issue that was tracked down to clogged injectors. Had them replaced and all was good. Years later the same problem arises so this time i change the injectors myself. Car would start surge and then stall. Would not run above 2k. would start high then drop then stall. Let the mechanic look at it, God only knows what he did, but now it ran above 2k but idle would be on the for short of stalling, you'd have to rev it high enough to get it in gear and not stall. In the end I thought since I had a little trouble putting in the new injectors is it possible I wired them wrong? Well I figured what would it hurt if I switch the leads. I switched the leads and a TPS reset and tada it started running just right. The new injectors are rather loud though. Ok now for the question. Does it matter what port the injectors are plugged into. It's an '87 Starion ESI-R, so there is a primary and secondary. The primary, 650 and the secondary, 950. Is there a specific position for each? Which one should be closer to the air intake. The injectors are labeled but not the leads. I said earlier that its running right, but with the warmer weather, When the car is fully warmed up the idle drops almost to the floor. Put the car in gear and it drags its tail to get up to where it can make some boost pressure. making a merge or a right on red very tricky. Thanks as always to the gang for all your input.
  5. my thanks to all of you. First up will be the wipers. with warmer days coming (non-freezing temps) the door lock is working ok so not high on the priority list. again I just want to drive home my thanks for all the great info.
  6. Here's another one I can't get my head around. This winter has been a little colder than most (central Florida not know for freezing temps), What I've noticed is my front wipers won't do a full sweep. They pause on the way up, sit there then go a little further, pause again then park and start all over again. Only on intermittent setting. On regular they go full sweep up and down but when you go to turn them off the switch momentary goes thru the intermittent setting and you don't get a complete park. Mind you, if I set the intermittent setting all the way up that it is running like regular low setting then it works fine, start and stop. Basically, all that goes away after you let the wipers do its stop and go routine. Similarly, the passenger door locks sticks when cold. Open drivers side and you hear the actuator. If you open/unlock from the passenger side both unlock. As mentioned before all that goes away was the car is warmed up or the lock is operated lock/unlock multiple times. Any thoughts are always appreciated
  7. Before I do this I need to ask a stupid question. But first, from what I've read the backup lights are controlled by a switch screw into the transmission. Its's said to comprised of a spring and a little steel ball I should not lose . Also need to mention the I've checked the electrical connections and all are good. Just no signal from the switch. Now the question. Will removing this switch (since it's screwed into the trany) dump the transmission fluid?
  8. Thanks for the input BlueCuda. If it is in fact a bearing issue I'm kind of screwed in that I don't have any place to do that level of work and that leaves me with having to go to a mechanic (uhg🥵). Same would be true if I had to do any work on the diff.
  9. It tock a while but I finally Got the rear of the car up. The only noise I heard was a slight scraping on each wheel which was the brake pads. Nothing else. As EDDE mentioned, The tires in the rear are new (not the most expensive rough $75 ea) I'm starting to think it could be them. Short of cracking the diff cover and draining the grease and resealing and refilling. I'm stuck. Not willing to replace new tires with more expensive ones on a hunch. I appreciate everyone's input When the rare tires where and I have to replace them I'll then look at slightly more expensive tires.
  10. Thinks for all the info everyone. The only thing I can add at this time is when driving and swerving right and left no change in the sound level or pitch. Don't know if that helps narrow thing down. But I'll try to get the rear in the air as soon as possible
  11. Noise can be heard clearly starting at about 20 - 25 mph and just gets louder after that. Never deafening but loud enough to be annoying and drowning out the radio LOL
  12. A while ago I started to notice a low frequency rumble coming from the rear. It's not RPM related. seems more speed related. Faster equals louder, take the car out of gear RPMs drop sound remains. Bring the car to a stop, sounds stops gun the engine in neutral engine roars but no rumble sound. Thant's all the detail I have. As always any and all responses are appreciated.
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