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The_Ginger_Stig

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    10
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  • Interests
    Fixing my Conquest
  • Location
    Arizona
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    0000
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1988
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Serbia Black
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    Restoring

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  1. Sorry for posting this in the newbie section, I still can't post in the virtual mechanic ๐Ÿคจ I have a weird idle issue after coming to a stop at lights or stop signs. When going into neutral with the engine ~2000 - 2500 rpm the idle will drop to ~500 - 600 and it after a bit it might go back up to 700 but until I tap the throttle a little it'll stay lower and doesn't quite sound like it's running healthy. I've been able to get around this by just giving it a little gas while braking and then it doesn't have problems keeping idle after I get to a stop. This only happens when using the brakes at a lower rpm or when coasting in neutral. Another situation where the idle drops is when backing out of my driveway in reverse and using the brakes when it's just idling with the clutch in. I suspected it might be a bad brake booster so I tried a few tests that are supposed to tell you if you have either a vacuum leak in the lines going up to the booster or the booster itself, and it seemed like everything was functioning normally. I have some new ( specifically reinforced brake vacuum booster vacuum line ) coming so I can replace the old ones and rule out it being a vacuum line. Could it possibly be something with any of the emissions equipment going bad after 40 years? If anyone has any ideas or pointers to the right directions anything is appreciated.
  2. Of course! I'd hate to have all of you entertain these problems and then never get a thank you out of it, so thank you all for helping Where I am right now however, is that my popups still only go up and have to be manually cranked down. I suspect a failure of the passing control relay in the dash because I've already jumped the passing relay in the engine bay to no avail. Has anyone ever taken one out and know a way to get in through the dash? I would rather avoid pulling the whole thing for just a relay.
  3. Alright so I have my solution for what was wrong with my turn signals for any poor soul who comes along needed to fix theirs. I had previously taken apart the cluster switches (headlights - fog - off) and apparently I didn't do a proper job of assembling them because one of the contacts was misaligned. You could hear the flasher click maybe once or twice but it would never blink the bulbs in the actual gauge cluster. As soon as I fixed my shoddy job in the switches the turn signals worked perfectly so if you have anything like I did going on, check your switches.
  4. So wiggling the stalk doesn't change anything related to the turn signals. I cleaned the ground in the instrument cluster, the one behind the cluster, and found a very badly connected wire running to my ignition switch that i soldered and heat shrunk. It seems the power no longer cuts out in the interior, but the turn signals no longer even attempt a flash. Hazards still flash the turn signals, just not the actual stalk.
  5. The car still runs perfectly normal when it loses interior power. I'm working on getting a new fuse link box and the little sub box because mine are butchered
  6. My hazards work perfectly fine, and I'll try wiggling the stalk to see if that changes anything.
  7. So I unfortunately have a lot of electrical problems in my 88, and it looks like someone else has been in there before. ๐Ÿ‘Ž Known Problems: Turn signals flash in dash once or twice then stop, no lights in the actual turn signals All back lighting in the cluster and HVAC controls cuts out seemingly randomly Occasionally all power inside the car cuts out when you tap the brakes, but comes back after you tap them again(?) If the handbrake is pulled when moving, the interior power problem surfaces very rarely The seatbelt light beeps when the interior power comes back after cutting out Pop ups come up when manually cranked down, but won't go back down Automatic seatbelts will stick in whichever position they were in before the interior power cuts out What I have tried: Cleaning all of the contacts and reassembling the cluster switches Cleaning almost all of the ground points Checked the fusible links box by the battery (mine has been broken but it seems they all have continuity) Cleaning contacts on the passing control relay in the engine bay, the pop up relays in the engine bay, and all of the relays in the tree right by the battery Replaced the flasher with an EL-12 What I haven't checked yet: Passing control relay inside of dash (If you know how to find/get to this please let me know) Cleaning turn signal stalk contacts Replacing ignition switch If you have any pointers/places to look or solutions to anything on this giant list please let me know
  8. Where is the proper place to ask electrical questions here? I have gremlins on a whole different level
  9. I really don't have that much for a real history on mine, but there's a lot of chassis bacon in the front right indicating it was in some type of collision ๐Ÿ‘Ž I just had the bumper off in that picture because I was filling in a crack with a plastic welder.
  10. Posting an intro so I can ask questions in the forums. Currently have a (non) running 88 Conquest, hopefully running soon https://photos.app.goo.gl/UCvn9LGwM4GWvdCo8
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