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Everything posted by BlueCuda

  1. That looks like a job for Mr. J.B. Weld
  2. For just having the toe set I could probably get away at no charge, but not once he figures this out lol. It wouldn't be surprised that he knows already, he is a front end repair guru.
  3. This thing won't see a ton of miles or inclement weather so I am not too worried about them not being greaseable. I was disappointed to learn that the passenger side has to be removed to make any adjustments to the tie rod. I ball parked them and tossed them on and discovered this when i went for the tape measure alignment(really should have been obvious). So I did all the adjustment to get it drive able on the drivers side and my steering wheel is all crooked. My alignment guy will love it.
  4. Everything showed up and is correct, I am a little disappointed that neither the mevoteck or the Moog parts are greaseable. Next stop alignment shop!
  5. My friend and I welded an old wrench to the through bolt for the bottom of the alternator. We were able to get the leverage on it to twist it and break it free. I swapped the alternator out with another one I had and it all works. Plenty of anti seize on the bolt now!
  6. Bill, I sold the Maf T haha a little late now. If I can't get a handle on things I will megasquirt it. I have an MS3X on my other car so I know the platform well and I like it. I really just want this one to be right stock at the moment and its getting there. I got a ton done on the car yesterday, fixed the alternator, and got the exhaust system adjusted to fit right and mounted securely. Its a nice mandrel bent 3" system with a Dynomax muffler. Super quite in the car but is pretty loud on the outside. I don't know what brand or if it was custom made but it sure didn't fit very good, we had to cut the turbo flange %95 off and twist it and reweld so it would all fit. Then put a 3" V band underneath, welded the slip joint up, and added some hangers to catch some stock mounting points. So far no rattles. I am not sure how the previous owner even got it hooked up? The floor is beat up where it was hitting at one point.
  7. I have been doing this with an open stock downpipe with a stub of pipe off of it. The car came with a 3" system that looks real nice but didn't fit worth a damn. That is getting taken care of this weekend and I will have a wideband going soon, this weekend if the AEM one that came with the car works. If not I am going to upgrade the wideband setup on my other car and move the LC2 over to the conquest.
  8. I don't have an analogue meter but I can probably come up with one.
  9. I don't recall what I gapped them at, it was whatever was printed on the underhood sticker. I have not done a TPS reset, a little scared to mess with it because it starts and idles perfect haha, I will add that to my list of things to try. On the EGR I blocked it off right at the head but on the intake side. I happened to have a freeze plug that press fit perfectly in there. I'm going to make a block off plate this weekend and remove the old valve.
  10. My car that I only have 20 miles on since I got it running is running well for the most part. If I am pulling a hill where it is making boost but I am not applying the throttle hard it cuts in and out a little bit. It runs great under heavy throttle or cruise but part throttle under boost it could be better. I do know the vacuum advance is in good shape, the original car I purchased happened to have two distributors in the trunk and one of them appeared to be brand new and I have checked the diaphragm on it and it works. My only drives have been with the timing set at 5*, I have since set it to the correct 10* but I haven't driven it yet. The 5* was the lucky stab that I forgot to double check. EGR, I plugged the passage in the intake when I had the intake off. I tapped a freeze plug into it on the engine side. However the actual EGR valve is still there and has no vacuum or anything hooked up to it. I do plan on making a block off plate for it I just haven't yet. I am thinking this may be my problem? It has all new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter. I found a receipt showing the injectors were flowed in 2019, they were flowed pretty close to the time of death of the original engine best I can tell. Anyways, thoughts?
  11. My Dad had Turbo Daytonas as company cars when I was growing up, I think he had two then bought his own 89 shelby car. Fun cars, ultra reliable but they are no where near as cool as a Starquest. The Comanche is way, way, and I mean way simpler of a vehicle than a starquest, also more reliable. But as cool as Comanches are they aren't as cool as a Starquest lol. You might want to keep it around though, so you can drive it while you wait in parts!
  12. These guys aren't wrong. My first one was my daily driver in the late 90s. The car never left me stranded(it tried) but I was thankful I had a good place to work on it and I had another car.
  13. I must have been very lucky on the tie rod ends, the part number I got ES3005RL doesn't show on Rock auto anymore, your comment made me second guess myself although I was real sure I ordered the correct one! I already did the steering joint from MKS, the factory one was smoked, I can't imagine how this thing drove before with the combination of roasted tie rod ends and steering coupler.
  14. Agreed on Moog, but they were all I found. Proforged makes some good stuff, the ball joints on my jeep are from them and they have outlasted Moog bigtime. It was not a surprise when I found they didn't make anything for our cars.
  15. I recently got my 87 conquest running and on the road. Got it out on main roads for the first time on saturday and it was rough! I needs every tie rod end and and idler arm bushing kit. As you can imagine I had trouble finding parts. I ended up ordering some Mevotech brand stuff from RockAuto. I have never heard of them but they were the only thing available for inner tie rod ends. I ended up with Moog outer tie rod ends because that was all I could find, I couldn't find outers anywhere but rockauto. I also ordered some new strut mounts also from Mevotech. Does anyone have any experience with mevotech?
  16. Really sounds like a wheel bearing to me, however you said it doesn't change when swerving which seems odd. The rear doesn't see the sudden change in side loading when serving like the front does. These cars also seem to have a pretty heavy duty rear bearing setup compared to more modern stuff, at least from my browsings of the FSM. My 87 I just got running has a similar sound but it goes away when it gets driven a little bit. I have looked at replacing the rear bearings due to this and the odometer reads 192,000. The bearings seem cheap enough but I haven't been able to see if you really need a press to do them or if the FSM is being dramatic ha.
  17. That is the plan for when I can wrench on it next, that and I might weld a tab to the front side of it so I can try and rock it around, currently there is no way to spin it since it doesn't have a bolt head and I can't get a good bite on that square end to try and turn it. This is for sure a problem I wish I had discovered on the engine stand.
  18. Jimmy its the one that goes through the timing cover. Its stuck stuck in the aluminum. I took the nut off!
  19. I replaced that fuse able link, cleaned up and replaced some wiring in that area, verified power going to and coming out of the alternator. Still nothing above battery voltage is coming out. I have drilled some holes in the mount to get more penetrating oil in there. I have one last idea to help unfreeze the bolt in the timing cover before I chop it off and build new. This motor is perfectly silent and doesn't leak a drop, I don't want to pull the timing cover ha.
  20. I got home tonight and changed the air meter out to the one off of my parts car. FIXED, it runs great. I made a couple of wide open pulls in first and second and it felt pretty good. Just a couple of more items and this thing will be ready to get some miles on it.
  21. Can a MAS be damaged if the plug is reversed? I know that happened to the one in the car now because all of the tabs are broken off the plug on the car side. It wouldn't start when plugged in, reversed the plug and it fires right up.
  22. I have a spare one and I plan on trying it this weekend after some other checks. Thanks
  23. Yes it did have a boost controller on it but it is currently not plumbed in. My previous 87 had a super 16G on it and it would peg the stock boost gauge then it would start to go backwards lol. On a real gauge it ran about 13psi. That particular 87 didn't seem to have a boost cut because it saw 20-30PSI while trying to dial in a home made boost controller, I was lucky to not put parts on the highway during that process.
  24. I don't think my question is understood, I am simply trying to figure out why the ECU "thinks" or "expects" 10+PSI when I am lightly in the throttle and the car is clearly not making that much boost(nor should it be). It seems to be fueling based off of that number and dumping way to much fuel. Just cruising around it runs perfect, but it quickly rockets the gauge up to over 10PSI with just light throttle. I am trying to get to the bottom of that, is it an air meter concern, obviously I need to look for leaks in the charge pipes and throw a real boost gauge on it. In my mind there is zero reason to start throwing mods at it until it runs correctly bone stock. When I figure this out I will post the results. Caliber308 thank you for the Autometer part number, that is likely what I will go with. I need to work on the cluster anyways because the oil pressure gauge doesn't return to 0.
  25. I am not looking for upgrades at this time, i am trying to figure out why the ECU thinks it is making 10+ psi when it is clearly not. I will update this with more information once I get back out there and drive it with a real boost gauge hooked up. I didn't do any driving that would have allowed it to reach such boost but something is telling the factory gauge its making more than stock.
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