obsolete

Is this BOV something you'd be interested in? I've had it for years, was planning to run it for the period correct coolness but my car came with a perfectly good Greddy on it so I'd be okay with letting it go. I have tested it and it works. Would look amazing polished up with some new stainless hardware. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

Yeah, since D2 and KSport have gone up 50% in price, $2,200 isn't too bad in comparison.

Is that the screw-on adapter? I've seen those but am hesitant to cut the ends off my stock arms.

I thought the K&Ns were still available recently, but I can't find any now, so we might be stuck just trying to find new old stock. I have a used K&N that I could part with if you're interested. It's in good shape but needs to be cleaned.

These are discontinued and have gotten stupid hard to find. Get 'em while they last: https://www.ebay.com/itm/204220051048

Looks like more great progress. Nice solution on the heater core, I think you'll be good to go with that NPT nipple, but I understand the fear with it being buried under the dash. Here's what I think my steering shaft is going to end up looking like. 3 u-joints with a rod end for support. This is the first configuration I've tried that seems to work without binding. Next I need to build a mounting bracket for the rod end. I'm going to make a plate to bolt on where the steering box used to, then try welding some square tubing to it at an angle for the rod end to bolt through with jam nuts. Apologies for the condition of my engine bay, I haven't painted it nicely like yours yet, but I only have one car to work with! Here's my steering column mount. I went through several revisions but I think this will be the final design. The tilt feature still works well, the column goes through its whole adjustment range smoothly. I ended up making the adapter 3/4" thick to nudge the steering column a little farther into the car. It's actually 2 pieces, a 3/8" thick adapter and a 3/8" thick spacer between that and the Borgeson universal mount. 3D printed TPU bushing between the 1.5" mount and the 35mm column. I will get the adapter made from aluminum, but the spacer will probably stay plastic, maybe I'll try some TPU there too for vibration damping. It took me several tries to get the dimensions on the adapter right. The firewall bolt pattern is really odd, but I eventually figured it out. I have the CAD files if it would be helpful.

Hey, I've been following your build, just haven't posted in a while. You're doing incredible work. I'm really sorry to hear about your health problems and the unexpected loss of your dad. I hope everything with you and your family is going as well as can be expected. I'm glad you've still been able to keep this project going and keep posting updates for us. Have you given any thought to the steering column mounting and steering shaft for your rack swap? I think I have a pretty good steering column mounting solution figured out for mine, but the shaft is tougher, I am looking at having to use three u-joints or a double u-joint, either of which will require a rod end steering shaft support.

I recall reading somewhere that a Tilton master bolts right up. I haven't tried it myself yet, though.

You printed that with no supports? How on earth did you orient it?

Looks awesome! Love the louvers. Was the door repainted at some point, or is that just an optical illusion?

Interesting. How does the pad size for each of these calipers fit with the stock rotor? Is some of the pad hanging off the edge?

Unfortunately the Photobucket links are dead, but here's some more good info: https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/93736-short-stroke-suspension/

Those LS430 calipers are cool. I didn't know they existed. The only radial-mount calipers I've ever seen were high-end aftermarket upgrades. The biggest thing I'm worried about is the size of them. I'll be interested to see what you can come up with for a bracket and whether they will fit under the stock wheels.

Most people have switched to 245/50/16 at this point. There's a little more selection, and they look okay to me.

If the buyer plans to sell this car any time soon (or perhaps ever), they really suck at investing.

My car came with a silicone hose on the PCV and it was turning to mush. The stuff is good for coolant, and vac/boost as long as it isn't too oily, but as you're probably already aware, oil or oily air like PCV will degrade it badly over time. I wasn't able to find a new OEM PCV hose domestically, so I had to order it from Amayama. Maybe something that would be good for Dad to start stocking.

I was going to suggest that, but there's also the seats, climate control, steering wheel, air dam, rear bumper, transmission pan...granted, the rear end is probably the least likely of those to have been swapped out over the years.

Unless it was built in early '87, it's probably an '88. If you post a couple interior/exterior pictures, the members here should be able to tell you the year pretty quickly.

Subaru put 4-pot Sumitomo calipers on WRXs too. I'm not sure if any of them are compatible with each other. What kind of prices are you seeing for the RX-7 calipers? I didn't think they were that bad.

Finally, a tucked radiator that doesn't lose the factory hood latch. Looks and sounds awesome! Hope you're able to get it home and enjoy it soon.

7.5"...that would have to be from a non-intercooled model?

3.6L 4-cylinder with no balance shafts? That'll be a low-revving paint-shaker. Pass.

Shorter control arms are an option too. You could shorten yours, or use ones from a narrowbody car.

Nice, not many '89s made. Looks like a lot of car for the money, good luck with the sale.

You can "depower" a power rack, here's an example: https://motoiq.com/project-miatabusa-part-5-de-powering-the-steering-rack/. I think a similar process can be done with a power steering box, but I'm not as familiar with it.