obsolete

Sure, RockAuto has them: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1988,conquest,2.6l+156cid+l4+turbocharged,1062470,steering,power+steering+pump+seal+kit,7407

Might try changing the fuel filter also, just to rule that out.

Those wheels look great on the car! Fellow quest & C5 owner here as well

You can get enough current to weld out of a 12V lead acid battery, which is more dangerous than a current-limited power supply if there might be a short in the wiring you're testing. That being said...I still just use a battery. Good luck.

Cool! That's a great idea. Thanks for posting it.

All my A/C experience is with R134a, but 0psi on the low side with the compressor running says to me that the system is low on refrigerant.

Turbo Cary's advice above is great. Also, given all the problems you mentioned, I can't help but wonder if you have a problem with your ETACS module. I'd start troubleshooting there.

Damn! When I got my parts from SendCutSend that I'd prototyped with 3D prints, the dimensions were dead on. Makes me think you might have a dimensional accuracy issue with your printer that got baked into your design. Looks like the important parts are close enough, though. I'm sure you can make it work.

Really? Do you have a picture of that? My rear wiper arm works exactly like the fronts. The pin is not part of the arm.

Yes, the new blade will probably come with half a dozen different adapters, one of which should accommodate the removable 3/16" pin. It's pretty hard to find wipers with built-in pins like that anymore. I'm not aware of any.

I have one that worked when I pulled it off my car. What's it worth? $35?

You'll need a separate pin. The part is ANCO 48-05 (or 4805) but they are hard to come by.

Thanks again for all the great info here, @kev. I got my parts; all the fasteners I pulled are in individual labeled ziploc bags, and the ones that the previous owner had already pulled before I got there are all mixed together in another bag. I seem to have everything, at least I haven't found anything that I'm missing yet. The square plastic inserts for the A-pillar trim are really hard to remove without damaging them! I managed to get one of the four out cleanly, the rest I broke, or were already broken. The white plastic inserts for the seatbelt mechanism in the door were tough too; I got one of those out intact, and figured that was good enough. Since I have one good example of each, I can 3D print replacements for both of them. I tried to pull the belts out of the reels to inspect the webbing, but it seems like they're stuck. Is there a trick, or is something broken?

0.8mm is the most common thread pitch for M5. Since Mitsubishi generally uses finer threads, that'd be my bet.

Nice! Yeah, spa turbo stuff is good quality. Glad they're still making these.

Amayama lists it as unavailable. I doubt domestic dealers are sitting on any, but it's worth asking.

I was just thinking about this, you know who I'm sure has an accurate Mitsubishi wideblock bellhousing drawing? Bill Hincher: https://www.billsautofab.com/projects/ He makes all sorts of adapters. Maybe he'd be willing to work with you.

Thanks! Is it glued to the roof at all?

Thanks a lot for all the great info, @kev. I hope your leg is healing well. I'm going to have access to a manual belt parts car next week and I'm hoping to be able to pull everything I need to convert my '88. One thing I've never done before is remove a headliner. Do you have any tips? Hopefully it's fairly straightforward. If you'd like to collaborate on a how-to, I'd be happy to contribute any pictures and info needed.

Congrats on a leak-free A/C system. Did you do reduced barrier hose or regular? I tried doing reduced for the first time on my Corvette last year and one of the crimps leaks. I think I'll just redo that hose with regular, I don't need the extra space or flexibility that badly. Maybe these guys for the adapter: https://autosportsengineering.com/product/autosports-engineering-driveshaft-adapter-dodge-conquest-mitsubishi-starion-to-1310-1350-u-joint-flange/ Doesn't come the hardware and flange yoke like Mikie's does, but it's cheaper.

I have a transmission out of a car and a 6" digital caliper. How accurate do the measurements need to be?

Yeah, dealing with headers around a steering shaft sucks. Hopefully you can find a good solution that isn't a bunch of time or money. What did you end up doing with the steering column at the firewall? That quote seems pretty high to me. PST will make you a custom length 2" steel driveshaft that they rate for 500HP, with 1330 u-joints and slip yoke for under $400 shipped. Slap an adapter from MKS on the differential flange and you saved $150.

Hey @techboy, thanks to you and this thread, I am now a member of the successful Starquest hatch spoiler removal club, and I've got the special-edition, members-only allen wrench to prove it: This is a hatch I bought from a part-out years ago, its spoiler will now live on to replace the wavy one on my car. Thanks for the great thread!

If you are going to get something cut out of plate, these guys are great: https://sendcutsend.com/. You can upload your design and get a quote instantly. Their prices are super reasonable.

I'm really sorry to hear that. Bill had a lot of knowledge about starquests and helped a lot of fellow owners over the years, but unfortunately never learned to politely disagree with anyone. I hope his family is doing okay and that they are able to find a good home for his car.