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obsolete

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Everything posted by obsolete

  1. Well, good news, if you've been away for 15 years, you only missed about 9, because we lost all the posts from the last 6... It's nice to have the site back up, though, and it's been fun to see old names show up. Welcome back.
  2. Turbo Cary mentioning the TPS made me think of something. The TPS might have bad spots in it--they wear out over time. If you have an analog multimeter, you can sweep test the TPS and see any bad spots. If you search here for "sweep test" you'll find the procedure. I think it's in the FSM too but it's been a while since I've looked.
  3. I guess if we didn't scare you off, then welcome to the club. I hope you find a nice one.
  4. Stuff that has happened to me in 3 total summers of driving Starquests: Stranded the first time: ran out of gas because the gauge wasn't accurate. It read 1/4 tank, but the tank was empty. Stranded the second time: clutch slave cylinder failed. Not a problem in an automatic, but the same thing could just as easily happen to the brakes. Almost stranded: rear brake caliper seized. This actually happened to the previous owner of my car; it stranded him, he replaced the caliper, then after I bought it, I noticed the other side starting to seize, and rebuilt it before it stranded me. New/remanufactured calipers are no longer available. Almost stranded: Headlights went out at night because of a fusible link failure. Luckily I made it home because I was in the city, and there were enough streetlights, but it was sketchy. Almost stranded: Overheating in traffic because one of the cooling fan relays failed. I was able to make it home after giving it some time to cool down, then taking a different route that kept my speed up to get enough air through the radiator to keep it cool. Bonus content: Both of my cars had rebuilt engines installed before I got them because the balance shaft bearings got shredded and damaged the rest of the engine. On the first car, there was already a bunch of metal in the oil of the rebuilt engine, because the previous owner installed it without cleaning out the oil cooler and lines, which were still full of debris from the first blow-up. That engine didn't live very long. My friends with Miatas spend a lot more time driving and enjoying their cars. Hell, even Subarus are better. It's a low bar. Starquests are really cool-looking, though.
  5. Wow, you did get lucky! Nice score. I've seen that happen with other "NLA" parts like the rear brake calipers. They're gone, then a couple more of them show up, then those sell out, and they're gone again.
  6. Man, sorry to be a wet blanket, but one of these cars will either strand you, bankrupt you, or make you miserable as a college student. Maybe all of the above. Even the low-mileage ones in nice shape that are going for good money are just ticking time bombs of 35 year old parts. I would only recommend getting one if you are prepared to spend a lot of time working on it, have a decent garage to work on it in, and have the tools the skills, or are prepared to acquire both of them fast. The two suggestions I'd give you: Get a Miata If you're into cars, you should learn to drive a manual. Seriously, it's worth it. I was in the same situation as you; nobody ever taught me how. I bought a beater manual car after I graduated college, had a friend teach me a little bit, but mostly figured it out for myself. I've since taught several other people. Driving a manual sports car is a fun experience that you're missing out on by not learning. I know, not what you want to hear, feel free to tell me to go away. Just trying to help.
  7. I think the name "Dad" still has so much good credibility from years in the Starquest community, I'd go with something like "Dad's Starquest Parts".
  8. For different cars, I've gotten some good parts in Mevotech boxes, and I've gotten some disappointing ones. Moog is the same way. Neither company is manufacturing all the parts they are packaging. I know that Moog ball joints, at least the ones I got, are 555 brand, made in Japan. Good stuff. I'm surprised you were able to find outer tie rod ends. You must have bought the last ones, I can't find them anywhere. You didn't get the narrowbody (non-intercooled) ones, did you? If you've got sloppy steering, check the steering coupler between the column and the box too. That's where most of the slop usually comes from. Unfortunately it's a pain to get at.
  9. Planning on just paying my taxes, I guess? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  10. Sure thing, I'll box 'em up and PM you a shipping quote.
  11. The best-looking set I've seen restored actually used gloss white paint on the reflectors. I know it seems like you should use something shiny, as close to a chrome-plated look as possible, but the diffused glow off the white background looks really nice. Anything is better than dull/rusted ones, though. Yeah, the pre-cut gaskets from MKS (I think they are still made by Natallica) are the way to go. I wouldn't reseal a housing with silicone. You'll be cursing if you ever have to open it up again. Butyl rubber, like the factory used, is the best choice.
  12. I have one spare, but I just checked, and it's a driver's side, sorry. If yours have rusted reflectors, they're not too hard to restore; just sandpaper and silver or white paint and they're as good as new. I think there's a how-to post around here somewhere.
  13. Mike C. is the real troubleshooting guru around here, but he doesn't post that often. Here's one of his old posts with some basic alternator troubleshooting steps, hope it helps:
  14. All right, it's after Christmas, time to get some stuff out of the way. I have a bunch of parts for sale. Prices don't include shipping; send me your ZIP code and I'll get you a quote. I can ship UPS ground for very good rates in most cases. Feel free to make offers, I am happy to make package deals for multiple parts and combine shipping. Good '88 MAF. Has a K&N filter conversion that was done by my car's previous owner. My car ran great with this setup. Filter needs to be cleaned. $75 (photo) '88 thermostat housing. Aluminum is in good shape and not pitted. Hose barb is rusty but solid. Includes thermoswitch. $35 (photo 1) (photo 2) (photo 3) Good A/C compressor. Clean inside, tested and working. $100 (photo 1) (photo 2) (photo 3) Intercoolers. Bottom is from an '87, top is from an '88. The '87 has thinner tubes, but more of them (probably cools better) and the '88 has thicker tubes, and fewer of them (probably flows better). $20 each (photo) Good starter motor. A little greasy, but cranked strong every time. $25 (photo 1) (photo 2) (photo 3) Power steering pump. Works well but leaks. Needs a seal kit. $40 (photo 1) (photo 2) '87-'89 Alternator. Recent reman, only a few thousand miles on it. Works great. $50 (photo 1) (photo 2) Primary fan with shroud. Tested and working. $20 (photo) Primary fan, motor and blades only. Tested and working. $10 (photo) Secondary fan with shroud. Tested and working. $20 (photo) Secondary fan, motor and blades only. Tested and working. $10 (photo) A/C fan with shroud. Tested and working. $20 (photo) A/C fan, motor and blades only. Tested and working. $10 (photo) USA Industries A1590 Alternator. This came with my car, previous owner explained that it was the wrong part that he got by accident and couldn't return. Interchange says it's for a Mighty Max/Ram 50. Looks just like a Starquest alternator. Not sure whether it would work on a Starquest; I don't see why not, but can't guarantee it. Brand new in box, check the pictures. $40 (photo 1) (photo 2) (photo 3) (photo 4)
  15. Sure, if there's anything else you need pictures of, let me know.
  16. It's black with a lighter stripe. Looks yellow, but could have started life as brown or white, I guess, and discolored over the years. The starter wire is also black with a yellow stripe, but it's much thicker. Pretty dumb to have two wires with the same colors but completely different functions right next to each other in the harness, but it wouldn't be the first time Mitsubishi did something like that. If you want to start over with a good harness, I'd sell you this one. It's not going back in the car. Thicker starter wire is on the left, thinner A/C wire with the blue painter's tape tag on it is on the right.
  17. '89 Mighty Max or Dodge D50 / Ram 50. https://www.car-part.com/ shows quite a few in junkyards around the country too. Might be one near you. Ratio was actually 3.909 so they list it as a 3.91. Definitely less than $250.
  18. I just pulled the wiring harness on my '88 and labeled everything I unplugged. The only connection to the A/C compressor was this small black plug with a single female spade connector inside.
  19. If there's one of these near you, I've heard good things about their work: https://www.gastankrenu.com/ If you need a replacement fuel sending unit, MKS sells a great one for an in-tank pump: http://mksmotorsport.com/ If you really want to replace the whole tank, there's this: https://www.legionelitemotorsports.com/legion-elite-custom-parts/img_b345da725832-1/#main Isaiah got a reputation for sketchy quality after shipping some coilovers that bent or broke on people while driving. I've never heard anything one way or another about that fuel tank. Looks like a generic aftermarket tank with some bulkhead fittings, mounting tabs, and a stock-style filler neck welded on. The picture shows a silicone coupler on the filler neck, which definitely isn't safe to use with gasoline. Buyer beware, looks like a good idea for a product but I'm not sure I'd trust the execution.
  20. I'd check with Steve at https://starquestparts.net/. He's been very good about coming up with stuff like that when I've asked, even when it's not listed on his website.
  21. I'm dropping my tank this winter, I can probably send you a gasket if nobody else beats me to it. Are you still doing the drain plug gaskets?
  22. A couple more from last fall when I got the MN collector plates on it. I really like how these look!
  23. Another bonus picture from the trip home. This car sure stands out in a crowd!
  24. I did a little forum searching and learned some more about my car's history. Here's the ad from 2014 when the car was sold to Greg by the owner before him, Nate (Spydre13): Nate owned the car for 15 years, so that would have been since 1999/2000. It had just under 130k miles when it was sold in 2014, and I just turned over 136k miles last week. Nate did some really smart upgrades and maintenance over the years on the car; all the details are in the link above, so I won't copy them out here. I am really happy with the work he did, and the car still runs and drives great as a result. I'm going to see if I can get in touch with Nate just to let him know that I appreciate the car and it's in good hands. A picture of the car from when Nate owned it. Look, it used to have louvers! Most of the pictures of the car from 2014 were lost when Google Plus was taken down. This is the only other one still on the forum, and it's bad news: That passenger frame rail still looked about the same when I got the car; Greg only drove it on nice dry days, so it hasn't really gotten any worse since the picture above. I brushed and scraped all the loose rust off and hosed the whole area down with some leftover black engine enamel to protect it until I have the time to cut out the bad area and weld in new metal. I have looked all over underneath the car and this is the only rust I have found. Zero on the body, zero in the cowl. Like most other quests, the driver's frame rail has been rust-proofed by the leaking steering box! I haven't seen the bumper beams yet but that's the only other place I think of where rust tends to hide. For a car that has been in the midwest for so many years, it's super impressive. I don't get the impression that it has ever seen salt at all. In fact, that's one of the main reasons I decided to buy it.
  25. Greg gave me permission to post this blurry picture of us from after we got done fixing the car that day. I'll post another update when I have time to write some more.
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