Just got off dyno....

[TainterRacing]

I agree with you 100%

 

 

Someone should give me a T3 flanged stock manifold...

 

 

My dad(RGAV8R) spent many months working on our cam situation... He spent a heck of a lot of time on the degreeing and researching about cams. I thank him for that and I know he is proud now, I am aswell!!

 

Get a hold of me if you want to try a T3 flanged stock manifold. I have one just setting here

 

And good job on the cam dad(RGAV8R) I did it the lazy way, had a race shop in Au that runs a fast rail car do up my cam.

[jinx]

Wanna bet I could loose 100hp by having my cam extremely out of time? Im not that impressed and it was also NOT with cam timing only, from what I hear he did a few other things as well

wanna bet these guys aren't as daft as you're implying ? This thread was NOT about simply "degreeing" the cam as recieved, like most do. Went WAY beyond and above that. Read the posts..... but then again, if you're saying they're holdin back, dishonest, or whatever.... why bother, eh

 

by the same token, Tainter didn't just try the 1st header, stop there and say "not worth it".

How many street 54s have we seen ET 12.4 at a measly 15psi using a "small responsive turbo" ? Zero

That is what that "extra effort" does for ya

 

I recall Ivan of 240sx.com dynoing some cams from crower, after he max'd out the stock cam (some even lost power!). Like RGAV8R, he didn't just degree what he was given, and stop there. To cut a long story short, his steel/glass 240 drove hundreds of miles to compete against nitros-inhaling punched out LS motors jumpin out the hole with 4ft wheelstands (vids on youtube).

Ivans lowly 2.4L 4cyl ET'd 9.2/9.3 without spray. He didn't do what everyone else did, nor did his car.....

 

And good job on the cam dad(RGAV8R) I did it the lazy way, had a race shop in Au that runs a fast rail car do up my cam.

which cam was that ? I imagine u mean a custom grind from austrailia ?

[notfried]

which cam was that ? I imagine u mean a custom grind from austrailia ?

 

 

Schneider

[TainterRacing]

Schneider

I think he was asking me... one Long story but I never got a cam card. Don't know the name of the shop that made it. I got it from glen. He meet them are the drag way and threw him we bought the cam from the shop that did the cam on the car below. It's a mech cam and the Intake lift .492 Exhaust .519 Duration is 302-306 we had to set idle up at about 1000-1100rpms. power band on the cam is about 4000-7500 I never ran more then 6200 tho. We had a Schneider mech 284 just be fore this. The cam swap dropped the ET .3sec. I think it would had been faster had I moved the rev limiter up, but we were still trying to tune it at the time. On a side note the motor with the cam in it was very loud I would say at lest 50% louder then the mech 284 cam.

 

 

runs 7.9's@163Mph gasoline

http://web.archive.org/web/20051217104344/t-racing.com/Image+file/RacingCars/sachrail.jpg

http://web.archive.org/web/20051217110019/t-racing.com/Image+file/RacingCars/railcar1.jpg

[jinx]

yet, another interesting cam choice. Cool

[Funky Phil]

 

Someone should give me a T3 flanged stock manifold...

 

 

 

You should get on a dynojet

[patra_is_here]

this is the first time ive seen this thread. great info and nice to see good power and a usable power band on TBI

[RGAV8R]

Man, this thread has really traveled all over the map.

 

Cam degreeing on rare occasions will net NO benefit if during the manufacturing process it is ground perfect to the alignment pin. What are the chances of that?

 

The power gains we saw were not just from degreeing, it was also a regrind of the bad cam, and alot of tuning. Read my description of the issues thread again.

 

Tubular headers; do not waste your time or money unless it is an equal length tube design with smooth turns and runners. For the nay-sayers, think of it this way:

grab you a paper towel roll, plug both ends, cut 4 holes on one side in a straight line and cut 1 hole on the opposite side. Now consider the firing order of the engine and if you could pour liquid in each of the 4 holes according to the firing order, they all hit varying amounts of resistance base on where they are. This log jam effect, builds up pressure in the manifold, (log) similar to head pressure on a pump. The flow of liquid is crammed together and is forced out the other side, (into the turbo). This uses some of the energy!

Now with an equal length tubular header, pour that same amount of liquid into the holes of the header and they easily find their way to the collector and into the turbo based on the firing order. No bottleneck until they hit turbine wheel. Which is what you want, a steady, smooth flow of air! The amount of resistance, or lack there of, is tremendous......If they did not help or make HP improvements as they do there would not be so many companies out there trying to sell them.

 

In my humbled opinion, the first benefit is less lag, air gets to the turbo faster, easier and less turbulent. Then as flow increases the benefits grow with RPMs. I have not even touched on the suction theory of how exhaust air leaving the cylinder sucks air into the cylinder for the next blow!!!!No secret there, that is how a 4cycle engine works.

 

Now with that said, if you have enough pressure, as in boost pressure, forcing air into the cylinder, then the log jam on the exhaust side becomes less of a factor. Therefore an engine with forced air induction, (a turbo or supercharger) will see slightly less benefits of a header than a normally aspirated engine.

 

I think the header helped us make these good numbers without real high boost.

As for Dynos, everyone has a favorite, kind of like opinions and a-holes. Everybody has one!!! LOL

 

Finally, I found the cam card and sent it to Bluecook to post for everyone to see.........

 

OK I'm DONE!

[BlueCook]

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t308/Bluecook/CamSpecs.jpg

[Technology]

Cool, thanks guys for posting that info.

 

As for dynos, it's not like opinions and a-holes. Opinion can be based on nothing, or great education on that subject. Dyno's are engineered differently, and if you want a more accurate dyno reading, you would want to get on a load-based dyno such as a dyno dynamics. Even inertia dynos like dynojets skew the numbers, generally upward. But they are kindof the "gold standard" for dynos, and everybody compares to what they would see on a dynojet. I got more boost on the load based dyno dynamics than I did on the dynojet because the amount of load the dynojet placed on my car fell off as it accelerated. Even the tuners acknowledge that you see one or two more psi on the street than on a DJ. The DD maintained the same load throughout the pull because it uses eddy current motors to provide the load. I made the same boost on the DD as I did on the street. End rant.

[RGAV8R]

Thanks Technology, you are correct about the differences in Dyno's. That comment was directed at the people on this thread that seem to be negative or disagree with everything. Also, which you obviously are aware of, the knowledge and experience of the person running the Dyno is as important as the Dyno itself.

 

RG

[BlueCook]

Bump for the fact that I'm running 22 psi now and this thread is way to old for an update

 

Redid my Intake with a new filter and ran the piping a little different! Played with the tuning a little as well as changed the fuel pressure around.

 

I need to find another dyno, this thing feels way faster than the 18 psi did.

 

Will be at PF tomorrow!!

[Technology]

Nice, probably getting somewhere around 10hp per pound of boost, if you're lucky, so four more would put you in the high 300s. Definitely faster than low-mid 300s.

[chiplee]

Will be at PF tomorrow!!

 

So even you didn't take any pics?