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Dyno time on Friday. Advice? Update: #'s are in.


JasonC
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Chiplee it's not the pressure, it's the volume of fuel.  You can run any size pump or pressure you want, but the fuel lines will only flow the volume that is relative to it's diameter.  Hence, a straw to a garden hose; no matter how hard you blow water through the straw it will never equal the volume of water flowed by the garden hose, even at half the pressure.  4 720cc injectors are designed to support 380 hp at 80% duty cycle.  If you increase the diameter of you fuel line you will be surprised at the increase of available fuel.  The pump will only flow as much volume as the smallest point (diameter) in your fuel system.  Ensure you increase the diameter of the intank pickup tube as well as the flow capacity of your fuel filters.

 

you have the dynamics of AIR confused with liquid. if the air didnt heat up so quickly, the 12A turbo we have would produce as much HP as a T4 lets say at 15PSI. if you have 45psi at the fuel injector and the pressure doesnt drop, that means there is 45psi. it doesnt matter what is pushing it through or where it came from. now if your injectors use up more fuel and the pump or the line cant support it, the pressure will drop just like the water pressure at an old house when someone flushes the toilet. there is no compression of the fuel here like there is in with AIR.

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I have another question about that graph. just what gear and RPMs did you start flooring the gas pedal for it to be making 150RWHP and 250 lbs of torque at 3000rpm. usually, you get rolling and you floor it around 2000-2500 rpm. the more I look at it, the less it looks like a graph from a turbo starion engine, especially with the starion TBI.

 

Dude, my car made 80hp and 150lbs of torqe at 3000rpm with reasonable mods and most of the mods to our cars improve topend power and very little button end since there isnt at much of a air flow and fuel problems at the lower rpm range. I don't mean to sound jelous. if anything i would be really happy if this is true.

 

can you get a video next time you go, and please dont worry about blowing things up and rev it up a tab more than 5500 to see if that magic TBI makes power in the 6000+ rpm range the way it looks like it will on the graph.

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you have the dynamics of AIR confused with liquid. if the air didnt heat up so quickly, the 12A turbo we have would produce as much HP as a T4 lets say at 15PSI. if you have 45psi at the fuel injector and the pressure doesnt drop, that means there is 45psi. it doesnt matter what is pushing it through or where it came from. now if your injectors use up more fuel and the pump or the line cant support it, the pressure will drop just like the water pressure at an old house when someone flushes the toilet. there is no compression of the fuel here like there is in with AIR.

 

artinist thanks for the correction!  I did my research and you're right!  I love these forums!  Sorry chiplee! ;D

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4th gear! 2500rpm is when it was floored! Anybody willing to come with the $125 for me to go back to the dyno and I will video the entire thing. Now unless the dyno was malfunctioning, I doubt it, the numbers are the numbers. It is a 2.6 TBI and thats all I can say. It may be a freak of the Quest community but it is what is and did what it did. The only thing I can do is post some numbers of acceleration times. I wont be able to post "from 0" times because they wouldnt be accurate due to terrible traction issues. I will however post 60 to 100 or something if that will help prove my case. I will have to get the times tomorrow or Thursday as I am working midnights tonight.
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what kind of dyno was it? maybe you could use a G-tech, to see if the numbers are close. G-techs are pretty accurate(even the first generation). as you said, the dyno may have been malfunctioning or something in the load setting must have been not correct. i dont see how the car could have made 150hp at the rear wheels if at 3000rpm if you floored it at 2500. the 2500 rpm start point makes sence but you tell me, do you really think those numbers are correct?
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artinist looking at your dyno looks like you have some very slow spool up, and for some reson or another (posibly cam timming, wrong size trims/housings, or just cam) It seam too drop off sooner then it should, what trims and housings do you have? It would be very posible for it too make that much power (really not that much) at only 3k even if you stoped on it at 2.5k. And about the gtech i know several ppl that have gteched then dynoed and if you know the exact weight of the car it has been with in 3 hp every time (at lest 3 diff cars).
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I believe the numbers are right. The car pulls all the way through every gear. From the start of a gear to the end feels exactly the same. I have pretty much had it with the second guessing, arrogant people that are on this board. I know a few people like that. " If it isn't mine it cant be that good" Well piss on it I dont have to sit here and try to prove myself to anyone. Maybe I will see you on the road someday or at least you might get to see my tail lights. To those who helped me get my car running right and pointed me in the right direction-Thank you very much ;D. To the others, you now who I mean, wipe the green off of your face and get over it. :P
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Jason I don't know you but I agre that this post has become a negative feedback post rather than let's try to find out what Jason did right. You asked for advice before you had the car dyno'd so I believe you are on the up and up . Good Luck and enjoy the goys who are willing to accept your results and give you credit. mark
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I believe the numbers are right. The car pulls all the way through every gear. From the start of a gear to the end feels exactly the same. I have pretty much had it with the second guessing, arrogant people that are on this board. I know a few people like that. " If it isn't mine it cant be that good" Well piss on it I dont have to sit here and try to prove myself to anyone. Maybe I will see you on the road someday or at least you might get to see my tail lights. To those who helped me get my car running right and pointed me in the right direction-Thank you very much ;D. To the others, you now who I mean, wipe the green off of your face and get over it. :P

 

relax man, try to take it all as a big compliment.  Like I said before, if it's so good that it's hard to believe, then you did something very right.  It's nothing personal, you should be happy you have something that is so hard for people to imagine.  How about some more details though, seems like you'll pop in and drop a hint from time to time but no real down and dirty type stuff.  Or maybe I missed some stuff, either way, it's nothing personal.

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WOW.....I just came across this thread. Dont get discouraged by the skeptics....Im with Chip take it as a compliment. And when you get time write down what you did so that you may have the greatest form of flattery....im not shy about it.. Im a copycat.

 

Maybe its all in your porting  ;D.....want to make some money, ive got  2 brand new non-jet heads on the shelf in the garage.

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;D, sup Artinist, on your dyno sheet it looks you are way too lean starting at about

4800rpm, you are right you could pick up a lot more if you could tune it to like 11.5- 12.0, kind of like on my dyno:

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/supra94tt/su...day-1-04-03.jpg

 

since running on the street is different( more load) than on the dyno, it looks 11.00(dyno wide band)  but on the street  it's about 11.5-11.8, rob NJ. ( i run wide band on my car all the time).

cant wait to put my T61 on Chad's manifold,  ;D :P

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Now there is an idea. If someone wants to send me a non-jet head to port I can do it exactly the same way I did mine. It would be great if it were someone who has dynoed their engine before and can install the head as the only new mod. We could deffinately find out what the difference is there. I could do it for a one time price of $75 plus all the shipping back and forth stuff. That would cover materials for the job. If someone is willing they would need to send the intake and the head and your new intake gasket. Let me know.

 

Also I apoligize for snapping like that.

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JasonC... I would be more interested in if you could get a timeslip than dyno numbers. Will you be able to make it sometime this season?

 

Dyno numbers are impressive, and hopefully the dyno was right... That means alot of us have alot to look forward to :)

 

Joel

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it would be for my automatic.  All the go fast goodies I had on my manual before the mpi are going on the auto eventually.  But I'd probably be pretty slow about it right now so I hope someone else will take you up on it.  And that wasn't rude at all
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4th gear! 2500rpm is when it was floored! Anybody willing to come with the $125 for me to go back to the dyno and I will video the entire thing. Now unless the dyno was malfunctioning, I doubt it, the numbers are the numbers. It is a 2.6 TBI and thats all I can say. It may be a freak of the Quest community but it is what is and did what it did. The only thing I can do is post some numbers of acceleration times. I wont be able to post "from 0" times because they wouldnt be accurate due to terrible traction issues. I will however post 60 to 100 or something if that will help prove my case. I will have to get the times tomorrow or Thursday as I am working midnights tonight.

 

If you dont mine going to Rock Island to Dyno I can try to get us a deal there as we need to Dyno Lizzords car, an maybe another car too.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
gentlemen this is one engine we need to have the cam timeing check'd on for sure,hell we need every  part of it document'd, timeing curve  max timeing the works,

fuel pressures , plug gap,coil , basicly  any and every thing  that  has any thing to do with  tuneing what so ever

some thing here is right , now what is it ??? ???

 

Indeed, shelby....indeed :)

 

I will say, that a good part of why he made so much power is the 25psi he was running... From what i've seen with friends cars, some turbo's make monster power between 22-28psi..  Hell, I got a 35psi boost gauge, and i'd like to use at least 75% of it..lol ;D

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Correct me if I'm wrong.

The bottom line is the A/F line... you should stay at 14 all the way from start to end; that means 0.86volts at the oxigen sensor. You would get more HP and torque.

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