Quest4Power

ok, just figured out how to calc. the resistors to be used when connecting the led's in series. you first add the voltage of the led's to be used together in series, so 2x3.6v=7.2. Â now we figure out the surplus voltage which is input-led's, so 12-7.2=4.8v. Â then you divide the surplus voltage by your led's target amperage, average is .020A. Â so 4.8v/.020A=240 Ohms worth of resistors. Â so 220 is close enough. Â so we do basically like this: +12vdc-------220resistor-------3.6vLED---------3.6vLED--------ground oh yeah, and i just found some 6400mcd white led's on ebay for $20 for a pack of 10 (brighter than the ones i got and same voltage, but a good bit cheaper). i'm also looking into 9000mcd ones from another place. this stuff's got me thinking ;D

don't feel so bad, that's the same amount of power my car made with all the crap i've done on it... after swapping cams the other day i know exactly where my problem was though. but decent numbers for a relatively stock setup on a hot day. ;D

just got back from radio shack... the only 3.6v led's they had were white, but they are 1100mcd which is why they are so bright. if i can figure out what resistors to use then i'll get the jumbo red led's that are 3000mcd for taillights. ;D the led's i bought were $4.99/each though and 351, here you go: http://www.jmkdisplays.homestead.com/acrylicrod.html

now i'm a little confused on his wiring instructions... i see he means wire the led's in series, but from the instructions he makes it seem like the two spare ends both go to 1 resistor and then to power, he mentions nothing of a ground or anything like that ??? is it a 220ohm resistor to one end for power and a 220 to the other for ground? or a 220ohm in and regular ground?

well, found some. spent $13 with shipping for 8 feet of 3/8" acrylic rod (extruded, says it carries light better). we'll see what i can do with this stuff

yeah, i was wondering the same thing... where to find acrylic rod?

all it'll attract is termites ;D

1. not necessarily, but it would be a good idea above the turbo if you're not running the stock heat shields. 2. if you want to, won't really hurt anything as long as it's at least in primer. you can just hit it with some rattle can primer to cover up the bare finish and go from there.

yes yes, rough up the surfaces you're using the JB on and it will hold like mad. the first time i did my injector bungs i didn't do anything with the spun aluminum surface and they ended up falling out :-[ but on the second try it tood a disk grinder to them lightly and made a nice jagged surface on the aluminum and you can't get them out to save your life now ;D

haha, guess what holds my injector bungs into my manifold? it's worked good so far. JBWeld works great for non-structural stuff, and fuel only seems to affect it if you didn't let it dry completely before exposing it. I'm a firm believer in the stuff, seeing as i don't have $2000 for a TIG to weld on an aluminum intake manifold. ;D

i'm running the hall sensor in front on an unothodox, no problems thus far. i don't have any really decent pics to give you, but my mount starts with two of the timing cover bolts on the lower driver's side of the engine. http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/a71d304f/bc...cBg1X_Ab8SqurHP http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/a71d304f/bc...cBg1X_ATWnEvZZX http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/a71d304f/bc...cBg1X_AdgTbaPmc

sounds like a nice setup to me. i just put on the SFP header and t3/60-1 turbo and it's like an entirely different car . boost comes up super fast and holds steady. i've got it tuned pig rich again until i get back to the dyno after the cam arrives but it runs soooooo much better than before.

man, does he even have any kind of driveshaft under that suzuki? looks like the tailshaft would pretty much reach the rear end and even for rock crawling, i don't see the purpose of having that many forward gears. if it's a dedicated rock crawler it should only need about 3 nice low gears and some really low axle gearing. i'd love to see someone trying to decide which shifter to grab there though ;D it would be a pain to remember which combo is which gear.

options auto salon has them for a pretty good price last i checked. www.optauto.com. i've ordered a good bit of stuff from them and they're fast and priced well. you could always jump on ebay too, i think the type-0's are going for like $75 on buy it now auctions but the shipping is usually sky high. here's the link to the actual page on options with hks timers/harnesses: http://www.optauto.com/webstore/product_li...15&last=115

there is no "stock one" on my car. i'm running MPI so the whole stock injection system is gone. with the aeromotive you can still run the stock one or get rid of it and let the aeromotive regulator control your baseline pressure.

the regulator or the timer? for the FPR you just cut the stock fuel return line and run it into the inlet on the new FPR, and then connect the new FPR outlet to the stock return line. then hook a vacuum line to the top and you're done. for the timer, unplug stock harness (on steering column), plug in HKS harness, and plug timer into HKS harness. ;D

HKS Type0 turbo timer, mainly because HKS has a plug in harness adapter instead of having to hard wire it. easy to use, relatively inexpensive ($70 for the timer, $15 for the harness). as for my fuel pressure regulator, i'm using an Aeromotive setup, can't remember the part number offhand but it's boost referenced rising rate with a 1:1 rise ratio. very nice part, just a little pricey.

i have the ACT xtreme/6puck combo in my car and it's just the same, except with a pretty heavy pedal feel. it's definitely on/off, but i can get it to slip a little when i need to, just takes a lot of pedal modulation. keep an eye on it though, as everyone i know of that has run a 6puck copper or ceramic clutch has absolutely eaten flywheels with them

must be a good one whatever it is ;D

which once again leads me back to thinking my car's problems all lie in the cam setup. i guess we'll see what the next round of fun will bring. just curious, but do you have any specs on that cam?

next round of mods will include: SFP Header new T3/T4 or t3/60-1 Tim C Monsta Banshee Cam Shawn Silva Adjustable cam gear Head porting. Art, what kind of headwork does your car have? i'm very curious as you obviously did something right that i most definitely did wrong seeing as your car made more power than mine and at only 7psi ;D. what cam/valves/springs etc?

yeah, the street does give better spoolup than the dyno on my car too. around 500rpm sooner on the street compared to the dyno in fact.

what cam was that with?

i'll have to see. i may just go to a T3 turbine side because it will still flow plenty enough on the top end (my buddy's 585whp civic hatch revs to 8k with a T3/T70 combo, and i know i'm not flowing nearly as much as he is through the head). i guess i'll just have to see about getting a header and such for it.

yeah stock exhaust manifold modified with a T4 flange, but HEAVILY ported. my next round of parts is on the way, a shawn silva cam gear and tim's screamin banshee cam. other than that possibly a .58 housing for the turbo to aide in spoolup over the .86 that's on there now. and i am sure my cam timing is screwed up, as i have no way of adjusting it right now and the new head/decked block has surely thrown it off a good bit. so basically i'm looking for some huge power gains from a cam/cam gear. ;D