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kev's restoration - viper blue tsi


kev
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http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSC06005.JPG

 

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Finished Product (except for doors, didn't do those yet)

 

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As said, still have the doors to put MLV/CCF on. Need to run the wire harnesses, put in window, etc prior to doing that. Have a couple 'holes' that are too big (rear seat belts, etc) that I will be making a 'washer' out of MLV to fill the un-needed gap during assembly.

 

Have test fit a few interior pieces so far but still have more to do. Hopefully everything fits up good and that the MLV/CCF did not take too much space due to its thickness.

 

Also the stock firewall pad will be placed over the new firewall pad for double protection. The stock insulation/mat from the trans-tunnel was used in lieu of CCF for the tunnel (its under that MLV...sorry forgot to take a photo of that).

 

 

Can't emphasize enough how much help Don Sanbrook of sounddeadenershowroom was! He took his time to write detailed emails and provided photos, techniques, etc on cutting and installing the material. Plus he has more 'hidden' pages on his website that he provided with detailed step-by-step process photos. Have also talked with him on the phone from my garage getting tips/opinions during the install! He has been so interested in the restoration of this car and even sends emails asking how it is going and if he could do anything to help. If you are buying sound deadening products, give him the business! His prices are the lowest anywhere and his support is second to none! You can't beat the service of a small one maned owned business! Especially when that one man is an acoustical engineer/researcher/scientist! He knows his stuff!

 

Kevin

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  • 1 month later...

Well one of my 3/8" SST fuel lines was bent incorrectly, so I had to shelf the fuel/brake lines until my new line is bent from inline tube. So I jumped back to the door assembly with mounting my shaved door lock actuator solenoids. I bought a 50lb solenoid kit from summit racing. It is made by Electric Life. It came with the mounting brackets.

 

I wanted to mount these without drilling any un-needed holes in the doors. On inspection, this turned out to be a simple task. Just simply used the mounting holes of the existing OEM door lock solenoid bracket. All I had to do was drill one more hole in the aftermarket solenoid bracket and bolted it as shown. Definitely use lock-washers so it doesn't slip! I probably should have tack welded the mounting bracket to the lock assembly for added assurance, but oh well.

 

I used the original lever arm that use to run up to the door handle. I rotated the lever arm so it pointed down and rebent it as shown (it is some soft metal so it is easy to bend). I ran a die up the arm to continue the threads. The threads didn't cut too well on the arm so I used two M6 nuts to position the original pin that use to connect to the door handle. Then I tack welded the lower nut just it case it were to rotate or pull off of the weak threads.

 

I had to open up the slot on the solenoid just a hair for it to accept the stock pin (just a few thousands using a small grinder on my dremel. To keep the pin from slipping in the slot of the solenoid, I used some SST washers to take up the gap. I tried to find an E-clip that fit the stock pin good but didn't have luck, so I used some SST lockwire.

 

I forgot to snap a pick of the assembly in the car...I'll follow up with that next time. But everything clears the window/etc. Now the unit is self contained, didn't have to use aircraft cable/etc. and the inside door handle still works perfectly like stock. I powered up the solenoid using my 110V/12V transformer and it pops these doors no problem!

 

Oh and I tack welded the lever system on the stock lock mechanism such that it can't inadvertantly lock for any reason. If it locks, the solenoid won't work to pop the doors (but the inside door lever would). You could just run a piece of lockwire around the lock mechanism to the frame to achieve the same thing but I already had my welder out to tack that one nut, so it only took a second.

 

Shaved Door Handle Lock Solenoid Mounting:

 

http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/Shaved_Door_Handle_Solenoid_Mounting_Page_1.jpg http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/Shaved_Door_Handle_Solenoid_Mounting_Page_3.jpghttp://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/Shaved_Door_Handle_Solenoid_Mounting_Page_2.jpghttp://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/Shaved_Door_Handle_Solenoid_Mounting_Page_4.jpg

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Pics of my stainless lines installed. 3/8" OD fuel lines (forward and return) with -6AN fittings. Brake lines are SST with stock fittings. Still need to installed the front brake lines.

 

Lines were custom bent using my originals as a template by inlinetube. Installed using all the factory clamps, etc. Clamps required modification for the larger diameter tube.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

all i can say is i wish my garage was that big. ( if that was your garage )

 

 

Which picture? My garage is just a standard 2 car in the basement of my little split level home. It is 21x23 inside dimensions. sorta small actually. Some of the pictures show the vo-tech school that I did a lot of the body work on the parts in the evenings...now that is a HUGE garage.

 

kev

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Man I praise you on that resto. How much did that car dolly cost that the body is secured

on and rolled around on? How did you mount it on there don't see a lift?

 

 

Thank you.

 

 

Dolly was free. Got the steel from a fab shop that I work with at work. I welded it up myself and used some castors that I had laying around. It originally was jacked up with four 6 tons jack stands when the car was dissassembled. I literally built the frame under the car while it was on the stands. It mounts in four places at the same location as the factory cross-members. It is bolted down with the factory X-member U-bolts

 

Dolly will be coming off soon though, I'm just about ready to mount the cross-members.

 

If I had to do it again (which I will on my next resto project), I'll be making a rotissorie.

 

Kevin

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