Goddard

Man so sorry to see this. I met Mark through our love for these cars. We bought parts from one another...hung out from time to time...I even helped him with some plumbing at his house one day. He was a great guy, sharp businessman, was fun to be around and def did put in the work to make the community a great place. I hope he remembered me as fondly as I do him. Weird how we haven't talked in probably 10 years since I moved from MD to OH but he is still clearly in my thoughts in a very positive way. Rest in peace friend.

Those are pre '87 seats

Happy Birthday guys! I miss hanging out with Charlie now that I'm a few states away!

Yes, prime the pump. Pull the small allen plug above the pump on the block, take a small hose with funnel and fill it until it will take no more. I've had to do this many times to get the oil pressure to build up after pulling an engine apart.

Happy Birthday CJ!

Hard call IMO. I guess if it was mint then that might be a fair deal. I would think you get could it cheaper if you haggled a bit. I look at it this way - It's out of warranty & close to 100K miles. I'm sure you be putting a little into it soon just in maintenance. Color, any other details?

What year?

I'll always remember reading through and learning from many of his posts back in the day. Sorry to hear this. Rest In Peace PQ.

I used to dive. Got certified just like you guys. The quarry checkout dive sucked as it was Feb in PA, freezing cold, very little visibility... Cozumel has absolutely been the best place I've dove! Deep dives, shallow drift diving, a night dive, they were all fantastic! Not sure if I'll ever dive again though. Definitely a commitment if you wanna be safe. You'll know if you're in it for the long haul or not. I wasn't.

Can you take a pic of where you put the sender? You may not have it in a place that is pressurized.

Is this because the dealer has to pay a cut to the financier/bank? Otherwise 15K cash or 15K on paper is the same I would think.

Make sure you air it out really well! Any fumes would be bad. I shipped one once via big box with no issues but I let it sit w/o the filler neck on for weeks.

Not A Batmobile but THE Batmobile LOL

I bought a new '00 3/4 ton, one step above the w/t. The good - plenty of power out of the 350, nice ride, towed 6000#'s without effort. The bad - rear axle seals wore out covering the rear brake shoes with oil and that would screw with the abs badly, the ignition key stopped going in the accs position (to just listen to the radio when parked) and the driver's seat belt stopped retracting. These weren't major issues but nothing I expected before 60K miles. Also my friend had an '01 3/4 ton Suburban and we were pulling a trailer of quads to go camping in PA. The rear of the truck started smoking badly and we limped it to a Chevy dealer and dropped it off. Luckily we had another vehicle following us so we were able to continue on our way. Days later we drove to the dealership and they had the rear all apart. The axles were standing up and I noticed one was bowed. I pointed that out and sure enough the tech said wow, yes that does not look right. It was probably bad from the factory and they replaced it with a new one.

Bill, very sorry to hear about your wife's passing. My condolences.

Falcons out, SF in

$26500.00 OB/O

Congrats on getting that monster out! They run in my family but I've been spared so far *fingers crossed*.

This blue/green combo car is for sale right down the street. I don't like the combo. http://www.dennydotson.com/newandusedcars/0/1990454/781f0068-f2aa-4430-b9cc-539b9f0ea0f6/none/2003-Mazda-Protege-Johnstown-OH-43031.aspx

Installation instructions not included. lolz

IIRC, you can plug an '88 door into an '86 but... The connector that will match up for either door is located behind the lower kick panels (inside the car). The '86 door harness went right to that connector. The '88 and newer cars had an intermediate harness that plugged into the connector behind the lower kick panels and then into the door harness. Think of it this way - the '86 has one complete door harness whereas the '88s and newer have one and another shorter one from the inner fender to the inside of the car.

LOL

Before - http://www.1350.forge-d.com/images/DSC08343.JPG After (I also shortened and flattened the stock plate with the D-hole when installing the secondary spring) - http://www.1350.forge-d.com/images/DSC02738.JPG http://www.1350.forge-d.com/images/DSC02756.JPG

When I jacked my car in the rear and let the suspension hang, it opened up at least a 2" gap from the top of the aluminum plate that sits on the spring to the the bottom of the stock metal plate (w/ D-hole) attached to my slotted aluminum strut mount. When I installed the helper spring, it took up that slack. Agreed I couldn't drop the car as low with the secondary spring. I'm not saying my car left the spring often but it obviously was possible.

I had the Cosmo dual spring setup over Tokico blues. Without the helper spring the car will leave the main spring (suspension unloaded) then clunk back hard when the weight of the car returns to it. This can't be good for the aluminum top hats, etc. or suspension in general. Now I only tried the rear setup but I'm sure the front would do the same thing. The back was a bit bouncy with or without the extra spring. It's a decent/inexpensive kit probably best for someone on a budget who wants to lower the car for the look, a bit of performance and maybe so some autocrossing. If I were doing it again I'd go with Ground Control dual or progressive springs and use the MR2 inserts/shocks that have adjustable rebounding. That way you could always change to a different spring rate/length/whatever. Now there are some complete setups coming along finally from reputable companies but they are not cheap. Bottom line - def go with the dual springs if you're ordering Cosmo's IMO.