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Beehive Valve Springs


TexasQuest
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Anyone use these before? What difference is there compared to the Schnieder springs? They're quite a bit more too...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-STARION-CONQUEST-G54B-4G54-2-6-PERFORMANCE-VALVE-SPRINGS-/301301972881?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4626ff3f91&vxp=mtr

Edited by TexasQuest
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I've run those for about 20K miles now, no issues. I would have to take one off to measure the seat pressure and open pressure which I'm not going to do but I am willing to bet both of those metrics are better with the beehive than the Schneiders. I have documented on this site how the Schneiders loose seat pressure once installed and used, it falls from 100 to 80 or so. Weak sauce.
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Blah still running Schnieder springs after 4k miles and still no float at 22 psi and 6800 rpm daily sooo. Im cool with what ever they are doing in there but i am still running the stock cam also and the bee hive springs have better harmonics proven. best of luck guys.
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Majority of spring I have seen loose about 10 percent of closed pressure after running some. IE, 110 lb spring will drop to 100, unless the get overheated then it can drop more regardless of the brand of spring.
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As Scott said, it has the same symptons of an ignition issue. Starts to pop out the exhaust.

 

valve float will effect every combo differently.

Lets use 90lb seat pressure.

Now say you have a exhaust setup that develops backpressure/boost pressure ratio of 2:1. (most of yall have more)

Lets say your running 20psi boost. That would mean you have backpressure of 40psi.

This means you are trying to control your valvetrain with 50psi worth of spring pressure.

 

Now consider the moment weight of your valve and how high your turning your engine. Ever heard of valve lofting? Basically your rocker can lose contact with the cam and not seat when it should. Or you can blow it off of its seat.

 

My car would float them at 20psi over 5000rpm. As I would increase boost it would happen sooner in the rpm range. Once at 28psi it would act like a limiter/ignition cut going off.

 

Just aboutevery schneider I have pulled and had tested was registering in the 70psi range at 1.8".

 

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You must mean 1.600. Installed spring height is 1.590-1.629. 1.600 seems to be what new heads and valves run at. I would have to get a set of older schneiders to test them to see where they are at, almost all springs we have seen usually drop 10% in a short time.. Oem stock springs new should test out at 72 lbs @ 1.591. there is plenty of room to shim the spring if you want to.

 

 

Dad

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  • 2 weeks later...

The beehive springs are a better spring design. I know some moderate street/strip cars using them on small block chevy roller cam engines. I agree that they shouldn't lose their rating as much as the Schneiders. However, I have checked some Schneiders with 25K miles on them, and they were still much stiffer than stock at 90 Lbs of seat pressure. They bump back up to about 98 with the .060 shims. I ran it on a roller cam with .480 lift.

I run dual coils on my .510 lift roller cam. They are rated at 125 Lbs new. I got them from CNM before Mr. James went rogue. I think TEP still sells them on their website.

I run 18 PSI or less boost, so I don't see the float problems like some people do.

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  • 1 month later...

Meh, take all variables into consideration valve springs heat up and raise oil temps faster than any other engine part.

So metal allergy is > design. I thought the beehive design would limit heat transfer to the stem. The use of shims end up acting as a heat sink .

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